On Sun, 24 Jun 2018 16:19:48 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Sunday, June 24, 2018 at 11:57:34 AM UTC-4, Electric Comet wrote:
>> looking for the favorite planter box liner
>
>Liners keep water in.
>
>> or maybe i will just make drain holes
>
>Drain holes let water out.
>
>> pond liner seems too stiff but seems to be the right stuff
>
>Perhaps you should decide what you are trying to accomplish before
>choosing a solution.
Yep. True that ... and if you really don't know what you want -
http://www.leevalley.com/us/garden/page.aspx?p=59409&cat=2,51603
Ta-Da ! liners that hold in the water AND drain !
John T.
On Mon, 25 Jun 2018 06:15:10 -0700 (PDT), [email protected] wrote:
>On Monday, June 25, 2018 at 9:06:27 AM UTC-4, [email protected] wrote:
>> On Mon, 25 Jun 2018 05:37:20 -0700 (PDT), [email protected] wrote:
>>
>> >On Sunday, June 24, 2018 at 11:57:34 AM UTC-4, Electric Comet wrote:
>> >> looking for the favorite planter box liner
>> >> or maybe i will just make drain holes
>> >> pond liner seems too stiff but seems to be the right stuff
>> >
>> >Just went thru this exercise. Built 9 planters, all dovetailed corners, from PT lumber,
>> >sealed inside and out with 2 coats of clear Cabot waterproofing.
>> >Put 1/4" galv hardware cloth in the bottom, covered by weed blocking fabric.
>> >Lined the planter with 6 mil poly letting it hang/drape over the top edge,
>> >with the bottom scored so as to direct water to the bottom where it can drain.
>> > Using Plastic J molding (think vinyl siding accessory) capped the planter top
>> >and trimmed off the excess poly. Exterior of planter/capping was coated with
>> >exterior solid stain. Plants are doing great, will not know till next spring
>> > if/how well the planters themselves hold up...
>>
>>
>> .. and it just takes-a-little-getting-used-to ..
>> the faint chemical taste in the tomatoes :-)
>> John T.
>
>Hmmm, which? The Poly, the Cabots or the PT lumber???
>Pairs well with Drano on ice :)
>These are just flowers, nothing for human consumption.
Ha !
I would like to see a pic though - especially the dove-tails -
large hand-cut ? ... a lot of PT sawdust if machine cut ?
John T.
On Monday, June 25, 2018 at 9:06:27 AM UTC-4, [email protected] wrote:
> On Mon, 25 Jun 2018 05:37:20 -0700 (PDT), [email protected] wrote:
>
> >On Sunday, June 24, 2018 at 11:57:34 AM UTC-4, Electric Comet wrote:
> >> looking for the favorite planter box liner
> >>
> >>
> >> or maybe i will just make drain holes
> >>
> >>
> >> pond liner seems too stiff but seems to be the right stuff
> >
> >Just went thru this exercise. Built 9 planters, all dovetailed corners, from PT lumber,
> >sealed inside and out with 2 coats of clear Cabot waterproofing.
> >Put 1/4" galv hardware cloth in the bottom, covered by weed blocking fabric.
> >Lined the planter with 6 mil poly letting it hang/drape over the top edge,
> >with the bottom scored so as to direct water to the bottom where it can drain.
> > Using Plastic J molding (think vinyl siding accessory) capped the planter top
> >and trimmed off the excess poly. Exterior of planter/capping was coated with
> >exterior solid stain. Plants are doing great, will not know till next spring
> > if/how well the planters themselves hold up...
>
>
> .. and it just takes-a-little-getting-used-to ..
> the faint chemical taste in the tomatoes :-)
> John T.
Hmmm, which? The Poly, the Cabots or the PT lumber???
Pairs well with Drano on ice :)
These are just flowers, nothing for human consumption.
On Sunday, June 24, 2018 at 11:57:34 AM UTC-4, Electric Comet wrote:
> looking for the favorite planter box liner
>=20
>=20
> or maybe i will just make drain holes=20
>=20
>=20
> pond liner seems too stiff but seems to be the right stuff
Just went thru this exercise. Built 9 planters, all dovetailed corners, fro=
m PT lumber, sealed inside and out with 2 coats of clear Cabot waterproofin=
g. Put 1/4" galv hardware cloth in the bottom, covered by weed blocking fab=
ric. Lined the planter with 6 mil poly letting it hang/drape over the top e=
dge, with the bottom scored so as to direct water to the bottom where it ca=
n drain. Using Plastic J molding (think vinyl siding accessory) capped the =
planter top and trimmed off the excess poly. Exterior of planter/capping wa=
s coated with exterior solid stain. Plants are doing great, will not know t=
ill next spring if/how well the planters themselves hold up...
On 6/24/2018 11:57 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
>
>
> looking for the favorite planter box liner
>
>
> or maybe i will just make drain holes
>
>
> pond liner seems too stiff but seems to be the right stuff
>
>
Dad made window boxes using plastic wallpaper trays, similar to
this:https://www.walmart.com/ip/Standard-Weight-Wallpaper-Tray/38470563?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=1194&adid=22222222227026495335&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=52577576951&wl4=pla-84459316031&wl5=9014946&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=112550058&wl11=online&wl12=38470563&wl13=&veh=sem
He sized the wood box to hold the tray, drilled drain holes through the
tray. The bottom of the box was not solid, just several supports with
gaps in the vicinity of the drain holes. Mom liked them because the
whole tray was removable for re-planting. I think Dad liked the idea of
getting the wallpaper tools away from Mom.
DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote in news:edb43224-2487-4113-adfe-
[email protected]:
> On Sunday, June 24, 2018 at 11:57:34 AM UTC-4, Electric Comet wrote:
>> looking for the favorite planter box liner
>
> Liners keep water in.
>
>> or maybe i will just make drain holes
>
> Drain holes let water out.
>
>> pond liner seems too stiff but seems to be the right stuff
>
> Perhaps you should decide what you are trying to accomplish before
> choosing a solution.
>
You want both water separation and drainage. If you let the wood
constantly get soaked, it'll rot. If you let the plants stay soaked,
they'll rot. So a liner that keeps the water away from the wood and
allows the water to drain is what you really want.
As to what to use for a liner, that depends on how deep you want to go.
A pond liner could work very nicely as long as you've got a way for the
wood to stay dry. One of the advantages to pond liners is that repair
kits are available at just about any pond supply store.
I use poly sheeting for ice rinks, and wouldn't consider it a good option
for a planter box. It just won't hold up to exposure for more than 5-6
months.
Puckdropper
--
http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/rec.woodworking
A mini archive of some of rec.woodworking's best and worst!
On Monday, June 25, 2018 at 9:28:58 AM UTC-4, [email protected] wrote:
> On Mon, 25 Jun 2018 06:15:10 -0700 (PDT), [email protected] wrote:
>
> >On Monday, June 25, 2018 at 9:06:27 AM UTC-4, [email protected] wrote:
> >> On Mon, 25 Jun 2018 05:37:20 -0700 (PDT), [email protected] wrote:
> >>
> >> >On Sunday, June 24, 2018 at 11:57:34 AM UTC-4, Electric Comet wrote:
> >> >> looking for the favorite planter box liner
> >> >> or maybe i will just make drain holes
> >> >> pond liner seems too stiff but seems to be the right stuff
> >> >
> >> >Just went thru this exercise. Built 9 planters, all dovetailed corners, from PT lumber,
> >> >sealed inside and out with 2 coats of clear Cabot waterproofing.
> >> >Put 1/4" galv hardware cloth in the bottom, covered by weed blocking fabric.
> >> >Lined the planter with 6 mil poly letting it hang/drape over the top edge,
> >> >with the bottom scored so as to direct water to the bottom where it can drain.
> >> > Using Plastic J molding (think vinyl siding accessory) capped the planter top
> >> >and trimmed off the excess poly. Exterior of planter/capping was coated with
> >> >exterior solid stain. Plants are doing great, will not know till next spring
> >> > if/how well the planters themselves hold up...
> >>
> >>
> >> .. and it just takes-a-little-getting-used-to ..
> >> the faint chemical taste in the tomatoes :-)
> >> John T.
> >
> >Hmmm, which? The Poly, the Cabots or the PT lumber???
> >Pairs well with Drano on ice :)
> >These are just flowers, nothing for human consumption.
>
>
> Ha !
> I would like to see a pic though - especially the dove-tails -
> large hand-cut ? ... a lot of PT sawdust if machine cut ?
> John T.
Used a Keller Jig, worked outside, fresh air...Used PT fence boards, <$2 per 6' board, not intended for ground contact, so I was hoping for lesser concentration of chemicals...
On Sunday, June 24, 2018 at 10:57:34 AM UTC-5, Electric Comet wrote:
> looking for the favorite planter box liner
>=20
>=20
> or maybe i will just make drain holes=20
>=20
>=20
> pond liner seems too stiff but seems to be the right stuff
You really have two choices, you can either let the wood of the planter box=
get wet, or you keep it dry. =20
Assuming the planter is sitting outside, its going to get wet when it rains=
anyhow. So you need breathing room around the liner to allow the planter =
to dry after a rain and you need a drain (or drains) in the liner that pass=
through the planter and allow the excess water to drain out of the soil an=
d yet not keep the bottom of the planter soaked.
The construction is simple, battens on the bottom of the planter for the li=
ner to rest on and on the sides to keep the give the wood room to breathe. =
Then in the bottom of the liner, seal in one, or more, drain tubes and ha=
ve them extend down through the bottom of the planter.
On Sunday, June 24, 2018 at 10:24:47 PM UTC-4, Puckdropper wrote:
> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote in news:edb43224-2487-4113-adfe-
> [email protected]:
>
> > On Sunday, June 24, 2018 at 11:57:34 AM UTC-4, Electric Comet wrote:
> >> looking for the favorite planter box liner
> >
> > Liners keep water in.
> >
> >> or maybe i will just make drain holes
> >
> > Drain holes let water out.
> >
> >> pond liner seems too stiff but seems to be the right stuff
> >
> > Perhaps you should decide what you are trying to accomplish before
> > choosing a solution.
> >
>
> You want both water separation and drainage.
I know what you want, the question is: Does EC?
What I really want is for EC to post like a human being, but we all know
that that's asking for way too much.
On Sunday, June 24, 2018 at 11:57:34 AM UTC-4, Electric Comet wrote:
> looking for the favorite planter box liner
Liners keep water in.
> or maybe i will just make drain holes
Drain holes let water out.
> pond liner seems too stiff but seems to be the right stuff
Perhaps you should decide what you are trying to accomplish before
choosing a solution.
On Mon, 25 Jun 2018 05:37:20 -0700 (PDT), [email protected] wrote:
>On Sunday, June 24, 2018 at 11:57:34 AM UTC-4, Electric Comet wrote:
>> looking for the favorite planter box liner
>>
>>
>> or maybe i will just make drain holes
>>
>>
>> pond liner seems too stiff but seems to be the right stuff
>
>Just went thru this exercise. Built 9 planters, all dovetailed corners, from PT lumber,
>sealed inside and out with 2 coats of clear Cabot waterproofing.
>Put 1/4" galv hardware cloth in the bottom, covered by weed blocking fabric.
>Lined the planter with 6 mil poly letting it hang/drape over the top edge,
>with the bottom scored so as to direct water to the bottom where it can drain.
> Using Plastic J molding (think vinyl siding accessory) capped the planter top
>and trimmed off the excess poly. Exterior of planter/capping was coated with
>exterior solid stain. Plants are doing great, will not know till next spring
> if/how well the planters themselves hold up...
.. and it just takes-a-little-getting-used-to ..
the faint chemical taste in the tomatoes :-)
John T.
On Monday, June 25, 2018 at 9:28:17 AM UTC-4, Dr. Deb wrote:
> On Sunday, June 24, 2018 at 10:57:34 AM UTC-5, Electric Comet wrote:
> > looking for the favorite planter box liner
> >=20
> >=20
> > or maybe i will just make drain holes=20
> >=20
> >=20
> > pond liner seems too stiff but seems to be the right stuff
>=20
> You really have two choices, you can either let the wood of the planter b=
ox get wet, or you keep it dry. =20
>=20
> Assuming the planter is sitting outside, its going to get wet when it rai=
ns anyhow. So you need breathing room around the liner to allow the plante=
r to dry after a rain and you need a drain (or drains) in the liner that pa=
ss through the planter and allow the excess water to drain out of the soil =
and yet not keep the bottom of the planter soaked.
>=20
> The construction is simple, battens on the bottom of the planter for the =
liner to rest on and on the sides to keep the give the wood room to breathe=
. Then in the bottom of the liner, seal in one, or more, drain tubes and =
have them extend down through the bottom of the planter.
Your concept is spot on...Maybe the liner solution lies in a piece of drain=
age board, used for basement/foundation water control...
such as this:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hanes-Geo-Components-50-ft-x-4-ft-Polypropylene-Sh=
eet-Drain/3316364?cm_mmc=3DSCE_PLA_ONLY-_-LumberAndBuildingMaterials-_-Silt=
Fence-_-3316364:Hanes_Geo_Components&CAWELAID=3D&kpid=3D3316364&CAGPSPN=3Dp=
la&k_clickID=3D7ff3f45d-2d0d-4194-84d0-7980f76b8157&gclid=3DCj0KCQjwpcLZBRC=
nARIsAMPBgF3vrxTYqMx36RiNAbTYfM4WbLBm8TuSHv3OBZ72t5puKXdd8grAOZoaAso6EALw_w=
cB
Probably find some cut-offs at a residential or commercial construction sit=
e
On 6/25/2018 1:19 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
> [email protected] writes:
>> On Monday, June 25, 2018 at 9:28:17 AM UTC-4, Dr. Deb wrote:
>>> On Sunday, June 24, 2018 at 10:57:34 AM UTC-5, Electric Comet wrote:
>>>> looking for the favorite planter box liner
>>>> =20
>>>> =20
>>>> or maybe i will just make drain holes=20
>>>> =20
>>>> =20
>>>> pond liner seems too stiff but seems to be the right stuff
>>> =20
>>> You really have two choices, you can either let the wood of the planter b=
>> ox get wet, or you keep it dry. =20
>>> =20
>>> Assuming the planter is sitting outside, its going to get wet when it rai=
>> ns anyhow. So you need breathing room around the liner to allow the plante=
>> r to dry after a rain and you need a drain (or drains) in the liner that pa=
>> ss through the planter and allow the excess water to drain out of the soil =
>> and yet not keep the bottom of the planter soaked.
>>> =20
>>> The construction is simple, battens on the bottom of the planter for the =
>> liner to rest on and on the sides to keep the give the wood room to breathe=
>> . Then in the bottom of the liner, seal in one, or more, drain tubes and =
>> have them extend down through the bottom of the planter.
>
> Does anyone else feel that these planter boxes are being overengineered?
>
> I just use some old redwood fence boards, drill a couple holes in
> the bottom, and add some dirt (hardware cloth over the holes to keep
> the dirt in is optional - a thin layer of stones at the bottom generally
> suffices).
>
> It will eventually[*] rot, in which case I take another old fenceboard
> and build a new one.
>
> [*] decade, decade and a half around here.
>
+1
Build it simple and just replace when it has reached it's end of life
cycle.
On Mon, 25 Jun 2018 06:28:14 [email protected] wrote:
> You really have two choices, you can either let the wood of the
> planter box get wet, or you keep it dry.
>
> Assuming the planter is sitting outside, its going to get wet when it
> rains anyhow. So you need breathing room around the liner to allow
> the planter to dry after a rain and you need a drain (or drains) in
> the liner that pass through the planter and allow the excess water to
> drain out of the soil and yet not keep the bottom of the planter
> soaked.
>
> The construction is simple, battens on the bottom of the planter for
> the liner to rest on and on the sides to keep the give the wood room
> to breathe. Then in the bottom of the liner, seal in one, or more,
> drain tubes and have them extend down through the bottom of the
> planter.
this is interesting
sounds good but may be bordering on too complicated
have to think it over and am collecting ideas
On Mon, 25 Jun 2018 05:37:20 [email protected] wrote:
> Just went thru this exercise. Built 9 planters, all dovetailed
> corners, from PT lumber, sealed inside and out with 2 coats of clear
> Cabot waterproofing. Put 1/4" galv hardware cloth in the bottom,
> covered by weed blocking fabric. Lined the planter with 6 mil poly
> letting it hang/drape over the top edge, with the bottom scored so as
> to direct water to the bottom where it can drain. Using Plastic J
> molding (think vinyl siding accessory) capped the planter top and
> trimmed off the excess poly. Exterior of planter/capping was coated
> with exterior solid stain. Plants are doing great, will not know till
> next spring if/how well the planters themselves hold up...
never heard of galv hardware cloth will have to look at it
too ambitious for me though
On Sun, 24 Jun 2018 21:47:18 [email protected] wrote:
> Dad made window boxes using plastic wallpaper trays, similar to
this is an idea i had not thought about
> He sized the wood box to hold the tray, drilled drain holes through
> the tray. The bottom of the box was not solid, just several supports
> with gaps in the vicinity of the drain holes. Mom liked them because
> the whole tray was removable for re-planting. I think Dad liked the
having them removalbe is a good idea so now i rethink things
a little to do that
much easier to replant if they can be taken out
On Sun, 24 Jun 2018 16:19:48 [email protected] wrote:
> Perhaps you should decide what you are trying to accomplish before
> choosing a solution.
uh yeah that is the point here
did you buy your planter boxes
maybe post a link to some and we can decide if we think it is a good
price
[email protected] writes:
>On Monday, June 25, 2018 at 9:28:17 AM UTC-4, Dr. Deb wrote:
>> On Sunday, June 24, 2018 at 10:57:34 AM UTC-5, Electric Comet wrote:
>> > looking for the favorite planter box liner
>> >=20
>> >=20
>> > or maybe i will just make drain holes=20
>> >=20
>> >=20
>> > pond liner seems too stiff but seems to be the right stuff
>>=20
>> You really have two choices, you can either let the wood of the planter b=
>ox get wet, or you keep it dry. =20
>>=20
>> Assuming the planter is sitting outside, its going to get wet when it rai=
>ns anyhow. So you need breathing room around the liner to allow the plante=
>r to dry after a rain and you need a drain (or drains) in the liner that pa=
>ss through the planter and allow the excess water to drain out of the soil =
>and yet not keep the bottom of the planter soaked.
>>=20
>> The construction is simple, battens on the bottom of the planter for the =
>liner to rest on and on the sides to keep the give the wood room to breathe=
>. Then in the bottom of the liner, seal in one, or more, drain tubes and =
>have them extend down through the bottom of the planter.
Does anyone else feel that these planter boxes are being overengineered?
I just use some old redwood fence boards, drill a couple holes in
the bottom, and add some dirt (hardware cloth over the holes to keep
the dirt in is optional - a thin layer of stones at the bottom generally
suffices).
It will eventually[*] rot, in which case I take another old fenceboard
and build a new one.
[*] decade, decade and a half around here.