Semi-new to routing.
I have built a router table in a wing of my table saw and finally got
around to getting a decent (2.5 rated hp) router with a 1/2" collet. Now
comes the fun part ... buying bits and learning how to use them (well).
What bit patterns do you consider essential for a newbie? ... just plain
fun to use? ... best brand for the buck? I've used a straight bit with
bearing to trace a pattern from a template but am otherwise still a rank
newb. I want to make some cabinet doors for around the house (mostly the
kitchen), add tongue & groove (or other fancy) joints to my slicing board
glue-ups and maybe make some replacement window frames for my garage.
I don't expect to do any freehand routing in the near future (I also have
a smaller router).
Bill
On Fri, 22 Sep 2006 16:27:27 GMT, "Jim" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>>
>>> What bit patterns do you consider essential for a newbie?
>>
>> None. I bought them as I needed them.
>>
>That is what I do as well. Buy what you need when you need it.
>Jim
>
Yeah, that's true if you are doing a lot of projects and know what you need in
the way of bits, but if you're new to the router, it's fun to have a bunch of
bits to play with on scrap and see the possibilities..
For me, the set at HF were a great way to play & learn..YMMV
Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm
"Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>> What bit patterns do you consider essential for a newbie?
>
> None. I bought them as I needed them.
>
That is what I do as well. Buy what you need when you need it.
Jim
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> What bit patterns do you consider essential for a newbie? ... just plain
> fun to use? ... best brand for the buck?
One bit that I'd consider basic is a trim bit with a bearing. You can buy
them with the bearing above the carbide, below the carbide or with a bearing
one on each end. My preference (and it depends on what you're trimming is
for one bearing to be between the shaft and the carbide. Don't consider any
size of bit except for ones with a 1/2" shaft.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=46171&cat=1,46168
I've used a straight bit with
> bearing to trace a pattern from a template but am otherwise still a rank
> newb. I want to make some cabinet doors for around the house (mostly the
> kitchen), add tongue & groove (or other fancy) joints to my slicing board
> glue-ups and maybe make some replacement window frames for my garage.
There's four basic bits for door panels. The two most important are rail and
stile bits. You can by one that has both carbides built into the one bit,
but two separate router bits are generally preferred. Next bit is the panel
bit for cutting the centre panels for doors. That bit comes in two flavours,
a horizontal type and a vertical type. The horizontal type requires
increased power and a slower router speed. The vertical type requires less
power, can be run at higher speeds but needs a fairly high fence to properly
support the wood you're routing. The fourth bit which can be optional
depending on what other bits you might own is for back cutting the centre
panel for proper centering of the centre panel between the rails and stiles.
Take a look at some of the picture and details in the link below.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=46178&cat=1,46168
You can buy a boxed set for decent prices, but if it's a set for general
everything use, it's likely to include some bits that you might never use,
wasting some of your money. Suggest you buy your collection of bits as you
need them unless you're sure you want to go the box set route. I'd also
suggest making or buying something to firmly hold your bits. While very
hard, the carbide on bits likes to shatter if dropped.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=50736&cat=1,46168
Of course there's lots more to learn, but it comes pretty quick.