"[email protected]" wrote:
>I have a Delta 28-203 bandsaw with a 3/4 HP motor in it. What is
> involved in upgrading to a 1 or 1.5 HP 1725RM motor? Can I just
> take
> the pulley off of the old one and put on the new one? Any
> recommended
> motors?
--------------------------------
As long as you keep the same motor frame size, you will have no
problems since the mounting feet bolt pattern will remain the same.
You probably have a 56 frame which will have a 5/8" shaft.
Just make sure you have physical clearance between saw frame and fan
end of motor.
Have fun.
Lew
"Mike Marlow" wrote:
***********************************************************************************>> Huh??? At 120v his 3/4 HP motor is drawing around 4.6 amps.-------------------------Might want to recheck your data point.Typical 3/4HP/120V/1PH/60HZ cap start motor is in the 11 amp range.#14AWG would be marginal.Typical 1-1/2HP/240V/1PH/60HZ cap start motor is in the 9-9.5 amprange.#14 AWG would be suitable for this 240V application.Lew
"Bob AZ" wrote:
> Lew & Mike
>
> One thing I did neglect to point out is the wiring for motors needs
> to
> reflect the disproportionate high starting current which is
> frequently
> passed over by many manufacturers of power tools. Thus the reason
> for
> another wire guage allowance.
>
> I rarely wire a motor with anything smaller than #12. Which with the
> 80% factor covers only 16 amps with no allowance for starting
> current.
----------------------------------------------
Actually, it isn't necessary to size a conductor based on inrush
(starting) cuurrent since it gets covered thru the back door so to
speak.
The circuit protective device (either c'bkr or fuse) has to be sized
to handle the inrush which typically requires a larger device than
required for steady state full load amps.
The larger protective device requires a larger conductor size so in a
back so the inrush is covered.
BTW, I'm a firm beliver in #10AWG and a 2P-30A c'bkr for most single
phase motor loads found in the shop, 3HP and less..
Lew
>
> Going to a 1.5HP means I have to replace the wiring? =EF=BF=BDNot sure I
> follow..
Dukes..
Twice the current.
I/you can almost bet that the present wiring is just enough for
3/4HP. Going to 220Volts will negate this if the voltage rating of the
wiring is enough - which I would assume it is. Probably 300 or 600
volt insulation.
Lots of things to think about. What size is the wiring now? Including
the cord.
Bob AZ
=A0What is
> involved in upgrading to a 1 or 1.5 HP 1725RM motor? =A0Can I just take
> the pulley off of the old one and put on the new one? =A0Any recommended
> motors?
> Cheers
Dukes
If possible go to 220volts so the wiring will not have be upgraded.
And with going to 220 you will need a new switch that breaks both legs
of the power. Home Depot now sells motor rated switches.
Bob AZ
On Feb 7, 10:16=A0pm, "Ed Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
Excellent, thanks. BTW, this is an older made in USA model with
enclosed base, not the open stand model sold in the box stores today.
It looks identical to the 475x model sold today with the 1.5HP motor.
Cheers.
> news:ce89f567-2e49-4797-954f-cd6e4cfc9bd5@l26g2000yqd.googlegroups.com...
>
> > I have a Delta 28-203 bandsaw with a 3/4 HP motor in it. =A0What is
> > involved in upgrading to a 1 or 1.5 HP 1725RM motor? =A0Can I just take
> > the pulley off of the old one and put on the new one? =A0Any recommende=
d
> > motors?
> > Cheers
>
> Yes and no. =A0You need a motor with the same frame size for the pulley t=
o fit
> or you need a new pulley with the dame diameter but bore to fit the new
> motor. =A0The new motor has to fit the mount also. =A0 =A0If you have a 5=
6 frame,
> get another 56 frame. =A0Be sure you have the wiring to support the large=
r
> load also. =A0 You can find a lot of information at the Grainger web site=
.
"Bob AZ" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:6abf9b4f-3d71-48ea-bfe2-3e33b7993ab2@s36g2000prh.googlegroups.com...
Lew & Mike
One thing I did neglect to point out is the wiring for motors needs to
reflect the disproportionate high starting current which is frequently
passed over by many manufacturers of power tools. Thus the reason for
another wire guage allowance.
I rarely wire a motor with anything smaller than #12. Which with the
80% factor covers only 16 amps with no allowance for starting
current.
Bob AZ
*****************************************************************************************
As a matter of practice, I never wire with anything less than 12. As they
say, great minds think alike, and so do we.
See my reply to Lew - apology to you in it. I did my humble pie thing once,
and I'm not repeating it here...
-Mike-
On Feb 9, 10:11=EF=BF=BDpm, "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Mike Marlow" wrote:
>
> =EF=BF=BD****************************************************************=
***********=EF=BF=BD********>> Huh??? At 120v his 3/4 HP motor is drawing a=
round 4.6 amps.-------------------------Might want to recheck your data poi=
nt.Typical 3/4HP/120V/1PH/60HZ cap start motor is in the 11 amp range.#14AW=
G would be marginal.Typical 1-1/2HP/240V/1PH/60HZ cap start motor is in the=
9-9.5 amprange.#14 AWG would be suitable for this 240V application.Lew
Lew & Mike
One thing I did neglect to point out is the wiring for motors needs to
reflect the disproportionate high starting current which is frequently
passed over by many manufacturers of power tools. Thus the reason for
another wire guage allowance.
I rarely wire a motor with anything smaller than #12. Which with the
80% factor covers only 16 amps with no allowance for starting
current.
Bob AZ
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Mike Marlow" wrote:
> ***********************************************************************************>>
> Huh??? At 120v his 3/4 HP motor is drawing around 4.6
> amps.-------------------------Might want to recheck your data
> point.Typical 3/4HP/120V/1PH/60HZ cap start motor is in the 11 amp
> range.#14AWG would be marginal.Typical 1-1/2HP/240V/1PH/60HZ cap start
> motor is in the 9-9.5 amprange.#14 AWG would be suitable for this 240V
> application.Lew
>
>
I humbly stand corrected. Thank you sir, and my apologies to Bob AZ for
being off the mark.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"Bob AZ" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:144415d6-9522-49e3-a346-21960f268c2e@b36g2000pri.googlegroups.com...
>
> Going to a 1.5HP means I have to replace the wiring? ?Not sure I
> follow..
Dukes..
Twice the current.
I/you can almost bet that the present wiring is just enough for
3/4HP. Going to 220Volts will negate this if the voltage rating of the
wiring is enough - which I would assume it is. Probably 300 or 600
volt insulation.
Lots of things to think about. What size is the wiring now? Including
the cord.
***********************************************************************************
Huh??? At 120v his 3/4 HP motor is drawing around 4.6 amps. Why are you
saying you can almost bet that the present wiring is just enough for 3/4 HP?
Why do you say that this will be negated if the voltage rating of the wire
is enough? Wire is rated for current carrying capability, not voltage. The
insulation rating you mention is completely irrelevant to the matter in
question.
You conclude by asking what size the existing wire is. You could not
possibly make the statements that preceded that statement, without that
knowledge. In short - this is really bad advice. I think you should avoid
making recommendations with respect to electrical questions.
It's not that I'm trying to embarrass you or to sound pompous, but
electrical stuff is nothing to fool around with and if you don't really
understand the things you're speaking about, it's better to read what others
post and not contribute yourself.
There are not lots of things to think about - there are only a couple, and
they are indisputable.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
> The larger protective device requires a larger conductor size so in a
> back so the inrush is covered.
>
> BTW, I'm a firm beliver in #10AWG and a 2P-30A c'bkr for most single
> phase motor loads found in the shop, 3HP and less..
>
> Lew
Lew et al
Just to add a bit.
Not everybody knows that there are branch circuit CBs for motor
circuits that take into account both the inrush or starting current,
and the quiescent current so that the branch circuit does have
protection that is comprable (sp?) with the load. And to all who are
following this remember that the CB protects the wiring and not the
appliance. The overload device on the motor in this case protects the
appliance.
Bob AZ
On Feb 8, 10:45=A0am, Bob AZ <[email protected]> wrote:
> =A0=A0What is
>
> > involved in upgrading to a 1 or 1.5 HP 1725RM motor? =A0Can I just take
> > the pulley off of the old one and put on the new one? =A0Any recommende=
d
> > motors?
> > Cheers
>
> Dukes
>
> If possible go to 220volts so the wiring will not have be upgraded.
> And with going to 220 you will need a new switch that breaks both legs
> of the power. Home Depot now sells motor rated switches.
>
> Bob =A0AZ
Going to a 1.5HP means I have to replace the wiring? Not sure I
follow..
"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:ce89f567-2e49-4797-954f-cd6e4cfc9bd5@l26g2000yqd.googlegroups.com...
> I have a Delta 28-203 bandsaw with a 3/4 HP motor in it. What is
> involved in upgrading to a 1 or 1.5 HP 1725RM motor? Can I just take
> the pulley off of the old one and put on the new one? Any recommended
> motors?
> Cheers
Yes and no. You need a motor with the same frame size for the pulley to fit
or you need a new pulley with the dame diameter but bore to fit the new
motor. The new motor has to fit the mount also. If you have a 56 frame,
get another 56 frame. Be sure you have the wiring to support the larger
load also. You can find a lot of information at the Grainger web site.