One of the things that I detest is stitching out the router table plates
on my router table. Bench Dog brand and a large Triton router hanging
under it.
The plate that I use 95% of the time is some type plastic material not
totally unlike a phenolic material. The router hangs by 4 flat head
counter sunk screws that are tightened and loosened by a 4mm hex wrench.
The screws seem to naturally get tighter with time and it is a test of
my nerves to loosen them. Using a 4mm Hex wrench with a 24" pry bar
firmly attached I give the wrench a slow steady twist. I suppose the
pry bar moves 45 degrees and then all of a sudden a loud POP and the
screw is loose. I keep a rag over the wrench and screw for the time
that the pop ends up being the wrench shattering. The head of the screw
is wider than 1/2" so there is a lot of contact area with the router plate.
And my hex wrench now has a 30 degree twist through out the length of
the short end.
So what to do. I wonder if an anti seize compound and or teflon tape
under the head might be the answer.
On 1/4/2014 12:43 PM, Larry W wrote:
> Why not try out the teflon tape? You have nothing to lose. I would
> hold off on trying the antiseize without knowing exactly what the plate
> is made of. Some varieties of polycarbonate can be weakened by certain
> solvents or petroleum products, or so I've heard.
>
>
I would not think wax would be a problem but teflon will be my second
choice. Wax would be much easier to apply. The tape would have to be
wrapped around the bottom of the head with nothing to really grab on to.
On Friday, January 3, 2014 4:11:45 PM UTC-8, Leon wrote:
> One of the things that I detest is stitching out the router table plates
> on my router table. Bench Dog brand and a large Triton router hanging
> under it.
>
> The plate that I use 95% of the time is some type plastic material... 4 flat head
> counter sunk screws that are tightened and loosened by a 4mm hex wrench.
You might check the countersink ANGLE to see if it's a match to the
screw head. There are 'standard' countersink angles of 60, 82, and 90
degrees; inch-size takes 82 degrees, but metric fasteners take 90 degree
countersink.
"Leon" wrote:
> One of the things that I detest is stitching out the router table
> plates on my router table. Bench Dog brand and a large Triton
> router hanging under it.
>
> The plate that I use 95% of the time is some type plastic material
> not totally unlike a phenolic material. The router hangs by 4 flat
> head counter sunk screws that are tightened and loosened by a 4mm
> hex wrench.
>
> The screws seem to naturally get tighter with time and it is a test
> of my nerves to loosen them. Using a 4mm Hex wrench with a 24" pry
> bar firmly attached I give the wrench a slow steady twist. I
> suppose the pry bar moves 45 degrees and then all of a sudden a loud
> POP and the screw is loose. I keep a rag over the wrench and screw
> for the time that the pop ends up being the wrench shattering. The
> head of the screw is wider than 1/2" so there is a lot of contact
> area with the router plate.
>
> And my hex wrench now has a 30 degree twist through out the length
> of the short end.
>
>
> So what to do. I wonder if an anti seize compound and or teflon
> tape under the head might be the answer.
-----------------------------------------------------
Call Kano Labs in Nashville, they have an 800#, and talk to one of
their
application people.
http://tinyurl.com/qs5aw
These are the people who bring us Kroil.
Lew
On 1/3/2014 8:12 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:
> "Leon" wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>> One of the things that I detest is stitching out the router table
>> plates on my router table. Bench Dog brand and a large Triton router
>> hanging under it.
>>
>> The plate that I use 95% of the time is some type plastic material not
>> totally unlike a phenolic material. The router hangs by 4 flat head
>> counter sunk screws that are tightened and loosened by a 4mm hex wrench.
>>
>> The screws seem to naturally get tighter with time and it is a test of
>> my nerves to loosen them. Using a 4mm Hex wrench with a 24" pry bar
>
> Does this appear to be a problem of the bolts sticking in the router or
> the bolt heads sticking to the table plate? If the former anti-seize
> would make sense. If the latter perhaps some paste wax or Breakfree
> would suffice.
>
> John
It is the screw head sticking to the plate. The bolt turns freely once
the head is turned any amount at all. The wax is sounding like a
reasonable solution. My fear then is that the screws might vibrate
loose. LOL Well maybe wax on the head and LocTite on the threads.
On 1/3/2014 6:11 PM, Leon wrote:
> One of the things that I detest is stitching out the router table plates
> on my router table. Bench Dog brand and a large Triton router hanging
> under it.
>
> The plate that I use 95% of the time is some type plastic material not
> totally unlike a phenolic material. The router hangs by 4 flat head
> counter sunk screws that are tightened and loosened by a 4mm hex wrench.
>
> The screws seem to naturally get tighter with time and it is a test of
> my nerves to loosen them. Using a 4mm Hex wrench with a 24" pry bar
> firmly attached I give the wrench a slow steady twist. I suppose the
> pry bar moves 45 degrees and then all of a sudden a loud POP and the
> screw is loose. I keep a rag over the wrench and screw for the time
> that the pop ends up being the wrench shattering. The head of the screw
> is wider than 1/2" so there is a lot of contact area with the router
> plate.
>
> And my hex wrench now has a 30 degree twist through out the length of
> the short end.
>
>
> So what to do. I wonder if an anti seize compound and or teflon tape
> under the head might be the answer.
Thanks to everyone, I think wax is going to be the first thing I try.
And then again in a couple of years I can see if that worked. LOL
On 1/3/2014 9:13 PM, woodchucker wrote:
> On 1/3/2014 7:11 PM, Leon wrote:
>> One of the things that I detest is stitching out the router table plates
>> on my router table. Bench Dog brand and a large Triton router hanging
>> under it.
>>
>> The plate that I use 95% of the time is some type plastic material not
>> totally unlike a phenolic material. The router hangs by 4 flat head
>> counter sunk screws that are tightened and loosened by a 4mm hex wrench.
>>
>> The screws seem to naturally get tighter with time and it is a test of
>> my nerves to loosen them. Using a 4mm Hex wrench with a 24" pry bar
>> firmly attached I give the wrench a slow steady twist. I suppose the
>> pry bar moves 45 degrees and then all of a sudden a loud POP and the
>> screw is loose. I keep a rag over the wrench and screw for the time
>> that the pop ends up being the wrench shattering. The head of the screw
>> is wider than 1/2" so there is a lot of contact area with the router
>> plate.
>>
>> And my hex wrench now has a 30 degree twist through out the length of
>> the short end.
>>
>>
>> So what to do. I wonder if an anti seize compound and or teflon tape
>> under the head might be the answer.
> Use an impact driver to loosen up the screws.
> I know you use that festool thing, but that's what the impacts are great
> at... banging it gently to loosen.
>
>
>
I have two impacts but nothing to fit them and engage the 4mm hex
socket head..
"Leon" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>One of the things that I detest is stitching out the router table plates on
>my router table. Bench Dog brand and a large Triton router hanging under
>it.
>
>The plate that I use 95% of the time is some type plastic material not
>totally unlike a phenolic material. The router hangs by 4 flat head
>counter sunk screws that are tightened and loosened by a 4mm hex wrench.
>
>The screws seem to naturally get tighter with time and it is a test of my
>nerves to loosen them. Using a 4mm Hex wrench with a 24" pry bar
Does this appear to be a problem of the bolts sticking in the router or the
bolt heads sticking to the table plate? If the former anti-seize would make
sense. If the latter perhaps some paste wax or Breakfree would suffice.
John
On 1/5/2014 6:14 PM, whit3rd wrote:
> On Friday, January 3, 2014 4:11:45 PM UTC-8, Leon wrote:
>> One of the things that I detest is stitching out the router table plates
>> on my router table. Bench Dog brand and a large Triton router hanging
>> under it.
>>
>> The plate that I use 95% of the time is some type plastic material... 4 flat head
>> counter sunk screws that are tightened and loosened by a 4mm hex wrench.
>
> You might check the countersink ANGLE to see if it's a match to the
> screw head. There are 'standard' countersink angles of 60, 82, and 90
> degrees; inch-size takes 82 degrees, but metric fasteners take 90 degree
> countersink.
>
I'm pretty sure the countersink angle is correct, it is quite wide, so
to speak. And as tight as the screws fit I would think there wold be a
ridge in the plate countersink hole, and with the screw sitting in the
hole it will not wobble.
On 1/3/2014 7:11 PM, Leon wrote:
> One of the things that I detest is stitching out the router table plates
> on my router table. Bench Dog brand and a large Triton router hanging
> under it.
>
> The plate that I use 95% of the time is some type plastic material not
> totally unlike a phenolic material. The router hangs by 4 flat head
> counter sunk screws that are tightened and loosened by a 4mm hex wrench.
>
> The screws seem to naturally get tighter with time and it is a test of
> my nerves to loosen them. Using a 4mm Hex wrench with a 24" pry bar
> firmly attached I give the wrench a slow steady twist. I suppose the
> pry bar moves 45 degrees and then all of a sudden a loud POP and the
> screw is loose. I keep a rag over the wrench and screw for the time
> that the pop ends up being the wrench shattering. The head of the screw
> is wider than 1/2" so there is a lot of contact area with the router
> plate.
>
> And my hex wrench now has a 30 degree twist through out the length of
> the short end.
>
>
> So what to do. I wonder if an anti seize compound and or teflon tape
> under the head might be the answer.
Use an impact driver to loosen up the screws.
I know you use that festool thing, but that's what the impacts are great
at... banging it gently to loosen.
--
Jeff
On Sun, 05 Jan 2014 00:02:23 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
>On 1/4/2014 12:43 PM, Larry W wrote:
>> Why not try out the teflon tape? You have nothing to lose. I would
>> hold off on trying the antiseize without knowing exactly what the plate
>> is made of. Some varieties of polycarbonate can be weakened by certain
>> solvents or petroleum products, or so I've heard.
>>
>>
>
>
>I would not think wax would be a problem but teflon will be my second
>choice. Wax would be much easier to apply. The tape would have to be
>wrapped around the bottom of the head with nothing to really grab on to.
>
If you use teflon, use teflon PASTE, not tape.
On Fri, 03 Jan 2014 18:11:45 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
>One of the things that I detest is stitching out the router table plates
>on my router table. Bench Dog brand and a large Triton router hanging
>under it.
>
>The plate that I use 95% of the time is some type plastic material not
>totally unlike a phenolic material. The router hangs by 4 flat head
>counter sunk screws that are tightened and loosened by a 4mm hex wrench.
>
>The screws seem to naturally get tighter with time and it is a test of
>my nerves to loosen them. Using a 4mm Hex wrench with a 24" pry bar
>firmly attached I give the wrench a slow steady twist. I suppose the
>pry bar moves 45 degrees and then all of a sudden a loud POP and the
>screw is loose. I keep a rag over the wrench and screw for the time
>that the pop ends up being the wrench shattering. The head of the screw
>is wider than 1/2" so there is a lot of contact area with the router plate.
>
>And my hex wrench now has a 30 degree twist through out the length of
>the short end.
>
>
>So what to do. I wonder if an anti seize compound and or teflon tape
>under the head might be the answer.
Wax.
On 1/3/2014 7:11 PM, Leon wrote:
> One of the things that I detest is stitching out the router table plates
> on my router table. Bench Dog brand and a large Triton router hanging
> under it.
>
> The plate that I use 95% of the time is some type plastic material not
> totally unlike a phenolic material. The router hangs by 4 flat head
> counter sunk screws that are tightened and loosened by a 4mm hex wrench.
>
> The screws seem to naturally get tighter with time and it is a test of
> my nerves to loosen them. Using a 4mm Hex wrench with a 24" pry bar
> firmly attached I give the wrench a slow steady twist. I suppose the
> pry bar moves 45 degrees and then all of a sudden a loud POP and the
> screw is loose. I keep a rag over the wrench and screw for the time
> that the pop ends up being the wrench shattering. The head of the screw
> is wider than 1/2" so there is a lot of contact area with the router
> plate.
>
> And my hex wrench now has a 30 degree twist through out the length of
> the short end.
>
>
> So what to do. I wonder if an anti seize compound and or teflon tape
> under the head might be the answer.
My first suggestion is the anti-seize. I think that would be your best
option.
Why not try out the teflon tape? You have nothing to lose. I would
hold off on trying the antiseize without knowing exactly what the plate
is made of. Some varieties of polycarbonate can be weakened by certain
solvents or petroleum products, or so I've heard.
--
When the game is over, the pawn and the king are returned to the same box.
Larry W. - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar.org