On Tuesday, January 7, 2014 3:37:52 PM UTC-6, Edward A. Falk wrote:
> I'd be just using straight water-based spar urethane.
> Orrrrr, maybe I'll just stick to the brush and not die.
Ed, no need to be afraid. That being said, safety with any airborne finish=
ing product is a number one concern. =20
Do not be fooled by thinking "water based" or "water borne" infer any level=
of safety. THEY DO NOT. They simply indicate a different thinner, solven=
t, or carrier used in its manufacture, or any combination of the three. Wa=
ter based/borne products still have large amounts of ammonia, formaldehyde,=
and all kinds of other nasties in solution that you launch into the air wh=
en you spray.
I wear long sleeved shirts buttoned all the way up, gloves, a large hat (or=
make a turbine like Peter O'Toole in Lawrence of Arabia for a big spray) a=
nd always have a high quality filter mask. The mask must filter particulat=
es as well as fumes, and I replace the filters nearly every job. I don't c=
are about the life expectancy or the due date on the cartridges. They are =
cheap, lungs are not.
With proper protection you can spray away all day with no worries. I have =
been doing it for years, safely. I had the great fortune of running into o=
ld painters about thirty years ago that were trembling wrecks because they =
didn't follow any safety protocols and I was able to see the price they pai=
d.
Cover up everything you can (if I am spraying something really nasty, I eve=
n put vaseline on my eyebrows, eyelids and lashes) and filter out the rest.=
Spray in an area with good ventilation and don't take off your protection=
until you are clear of your spray area. =20
The work you turn out will definitely be worth the trouble if you take the =
time to get good at it.
Robert
"Edward A. Falk" wrote:
> I've been wondering about this: is it possible to spray urethane
> or polyurethane?
>
> Is it possible for a rank beginner such as myself?
-----------------------------------------------------------
Depends.
One part systems can be sprayed; however, two part systems
that utilize catalyzed resin require special masks.
Failure to use the proper masks will result in a slow and painful
death as the catalyzed resin fumes you breath in harden in your lungs.
Lew
Lew Hodgett wrote:
-----------------------------------------------------------
>> Depends.
>>
>> One part systems can be sprayed; however, two part systems
>> that utilize catalyzed resin require special masks.
>>
>> Failure to use the proper masks will result in a slow and painful
>> death as the catalyzed resin fumes you breath in harden in your
>> lungs.
------------------------------------------------------------
"woodchucker" wrote:
> And some will kill your liver. A respirator is a must. I have a pump
> system with air hose , carbon filter that you put in another room,
> the mask is like a scott mask that firefighters use.
>
> But for those systems I would now use a full suit... I didn't know
> how much the body would ingest from the skin, but it's more
> significant than I knew back then.
------------------------------------------------------------------
Single use suits with feet, full head cover, gloves, and the Scott
mask
with air tank like the fire departments use, is the only way to be
safe
when you are catalyzed LP (Linear Polyurethane) coatings.
You also need a Devilbiss JG gun with a remote pressure pot for best
results.
There is a reason boat yards charge upwards of $200/ft of length when
they shoot an LP job on a boat.
Lew
On 1/3/2014 6:04 PM, audiowood wrote:
> I need to spray lacquers and clear coats on stained cherry plywood speaker cabinets and I need a pro furniture grade finish. Any suggestions for an hvlp spray rig under 600.00? or is this impossible?
>
For 600 you have a choice of many hvlp systems. But you will get the
finish you are looking for with less than 600.
Try the earlex
--
Jeff
On 1/6/2014 8:34 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "Edward A. Falk" wrote:
>
>
>> I've been wondering about this: is it possible to spray urethane
>> or polyurethane?
>>
>> Is it possible for a rank beginner such as myself?
> -----------------------------------------------------------
> Depends.
>
> One part systems can be sprayed; however, two part systems
> that utilize catalyzed resin require special masks.
>
> Failure to use the proper masks will result in a slow and painful
> death as the catalyzed resin fumes you breath in harden in your lungs.
>
> Lew
>
>
And some will kill your liver. A respirator is a must. I have a pump
system with air hose , carbon filter that you put in another room, the
mask is like a scott mask that firefighters use.
But for those systems I would now use a full suit... I didn't know how
much the body would ingest from the skin, but it's more significant than
I knew back then.
--
Jeff
On 1/6/2014 7:29 PM, Edward A. Falk wrote:
> I've been wondering about this: is it possible to spray urethane
> or polyurethane?
>
> Is it possible for a rank beginner such as myself?
>
Yes to both, poly sucks to clean up., you have to get the gun clean if
not, it's pretty much shot.
I have not personally sprayed urethane, although one of my molded planes
had a urethane finish.. super hard.. and beautiful.
--
Jeff
On Friday, January 3, 2014 5:04:53 PM UTC-6, audiowood wrote:
> I need to spray lacquers and clear coats on stained cherry plywood speak=
er cabinets and I need a pro furniture grade finish. Any suggestions for a=
n hvlp spray rig under 600.00? or is this impossible?
To expand on Mike's good advice, if you have a good compressor, for a proje=
ct that small you might try one of HF's CAS low volume spray guns. I use t=
hem on a fairly regular basis and they have proved to spray as well as just=
about any gun out there.
If you are spraying clear finishes such as lacquer, poly or shellac make su=
re you get a gun with a tip no larger than 1.2mm. Even though the poly wil=
l seem thicker in the cup, don't thin it unless you need to as most of toda=
y's polys are made to spray as well as brush or pad.
Another thought is to pad the poly on. Since you are probably not worrying =
about abrasion and water resistance on speakers, a pad finish would give yo=
u a nice subtle effect with satin poly.
If you are applying lacquer, spray it. It takes a good hand to apply lacqu=
er with a brush or pad but it is pretty forgiving to spray and fairly easy =
to fix.
Remember... always practice on your scraps!
Robert
audiowood wrote:
> I need to spray lacquers and clear coats on stained cherry plywood
> speaker cabinets and I need a pro furniture grade finish. Any
> suggestions for an hvlp spray rig under 600.00? or is this
> impossible?
Check Harbor Freight. They have a very good HVLP solution for well under
that number, and plenty sufficient for your needs. It will deliver the
results you desire - if you have the skill to make that happen. That's
where the rubber really hits the road. The spray device is only part of the
equation. The bigger part of the equation is you. You really can't expect
that any spray gun system is going to deliver a professional finish just
because it costs a lot of money or is a really good gun. You still have to
apply the finish properly.
Without turning this into a diatriabe on proper finishing procedures, I can
spray a show room finish with a $30 Harbor Freight suction gun for you if
you want, but it will cost you more than that. You can spray an orange
peel, dry overspray finish that looks worse than a rattle can with a $600
HVLP gun if you don't know how to spray. It's not as much about the gun as
it is about how you use a gun. In short - if you don't know how to spray,
you can produce as bad of a finish with the best gun in the world as you can
with the worst gun.
Going back to my opening comment - there is nothing at all wrong with the HF
HVLP unit and it is priced well under that $600 you mentioned.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
I've been wondering about this: is it possible to spray urethane
or polyurethane?
Is it possible for a rank beginner such as myself?
--
-Ed Falk, [email protected]
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
Edward A. Falk wrote:
> I've been wondering about this: is it possible to spray urethane
> or polyurethane?
>
> Is it possible for a rank beginner such as myself?
>
Here is (I hope) some interesting reading for you:
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/furniture-wood-cabinetry-finishing/42925-can-i-spray-polyurethane.html
Bill
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> Single use suits with feet, full head cover, gloves, and the Scott
> mask
> with air tank like the fire departments use, is the only way to be
> safe
> when you are catalyzed LP (Linear Polyurethane) coatings.
>
The single use suits are not as necessary as you think though, good
protection is. Screw the Scott air tank. Positive pressure provided by a
dedicated compressor is much better. Those Scott tanks get in the way, and
get heavy. Obviously, you've never spent any amount of time with one on
your back.
> You also need a Devilbiss JG gun with a remote pressure pot for best
> results.
Surely you jest. Have you moved on past the 90's Lew?
>
> There is a reason boat yards charge upwards of $200/ft of length when
> they shoot an LP job on a boat.
Yup - they have a license to steal.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
In article <[email protected]>,
Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>Edward A. Falk wrote:
>> I've been wondering about this: is it possible to spray urethane
>> or polyurethane?
>>
>> Is it possible for a rank beginner such as myself?
>>
>
>
>Here is (I hope) some interesting reading for you:
>
>http://www.doityourself.com/forum/furniture-wood-cabinetry-finishing/42925-can-i-spray-polyurethane.html
Cool; thanks for the link. I have a rather large project, with a number of
nooks and crannies, and this would go so much faster than via paint brush.
--
-Ed Falk, [email protected]
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
In article <[email protected]>,
Lew Hodgett <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Edward A. Falk" wrote:
>
>
>> I've been wondering about this: is it possible to spray urethane
>> or polyurethane?
>>
>> Is it possible for a rank beginner such as myself?
>-----------------------------------------------------------
>Depends.
>
>One part systems can be sprayed; however, two part systems
>that utilize catalyzed resin require special masks.
I'd be just using straight water-based spar urethane.
>Failure to use the proper masks will result in a slow and painful
>death as the catalyzed resin fumes you breath in harden in your lungs.
Orrrrr, maybe I'll just stick to the brush and not die.
--
-Ed Falk, [email protected]
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/