Probably all very old news, but you all seem stand up guys...
Secret nailing through the face of a board? Lift a shave with a 1/4 chisel
but don't break it off. Nail through the cut part, punch the head and glue
the lifted shaving back down with a high tack adhesive (yellow glue, fish
glue). A light sand, and nobody will ever know.
Nailing the end of a board and don't want it to split? Blunt the point of
the nail with your hammer.
Make sandpaper go further when not using a block: fold into four, tear along
ONE of the folds, fold it back into quarters. When one face wears out,
refold to get a new face.
So you marred the face of your expensive timber on that stray screw/ piece
of gone off glue on your bench? Put a damp towel over the ding and apply a
hot iron. Sand back with 320.
You're screwing into end grain chipboard and you just *know* it's going to
split out? Drill the "receiving" piece to accept a wall plug as a snug fit.
Screw into the plug. Go slow, let it bite, tighten carefully.
Yeah, we knew all that. But it might save somebody some heartache.
"deadlock" <nobody@nowhere_yes_its a_cliche.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Probably all very old news, but you all seem stand up guys...
>
> Secret nailing through the face of a board? Lift a shave with a 1/4 chisel
> but don't break it off. Nail through the cut part, punch the head and glue
> the lifted shaving back down with a high tack adhesive (yellow glue, fish
> glue). A light sand, and nobody will ever know.
Yeah, there is a small accessory to add to the 1/4" chisel to help maintain
the proper angle while cutting the sliver. On the flip side you have to be
absolutely sure to remove all of the glue so that the finish will not show
the spot.
Alternatively put a piece of tape down where the nail will go and nail
through the tape. Putty over the tape through the hole and sand it all off
when the putty dries. The tape keeps the putty only in the hole and out of
the surrounding open grain.