just bought a Stanley 3x5x~.050`` scraper, and it ain`t ready, I don`t
think. Probly has the clear finish on th eedge even. Gonna search the web
then come back. I don`t have a stone, but I do have SiC papers and a flat
glass; even a roller, probly good for 3`but not 5`` width. How can I
sharpen this thingÉ I think it is the burr I need.
Its first job is to scrape off bondo on my door jambs. I am impatient.
Please help
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and I have assorted files. I have small pink and green stones, |1x1/2x1/2.
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òh and i do have a vise.
im reading after filing and smoothing a flat edge to push a very smooth tool
along the edge at 15 degrees. Is this where the sharpening steel comes inÉ
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ok another one says max 10 degrees. So after step 1 and 2 , draw file with
a kitchen sharpener up to say 10 degrees. I may not need to be to picky
about my burr for this task.ie eg newbee do I need the draw file 10 degree a
t all
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Leon wrote:
> "deadlock" <nobody@nowhere_yes_its a_cliche.com> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> >>I think it is the burr I need.
> >
> > You're right.
> >
> > What you're looking for is a kind off mushroom profile if you were to
> > slice through the blade. Try a kitchen knife sharpening steel.
>
>
> Most of the sharpening steels tend to cut. You do not want to cut. Better
> to use a round shank screw driver. You want a smooth surface to form the
> burr.
Screw driver steel isn't that hard. Better to use a HSS drill bit
shank.
R
I used brute force with a poorly, completely erroneously tuned scraper. I
layered the bondo thick last coat, and do not recommend this. My thinking
was that I'd rather remove from a solid base than have to add a little
later. But it was ugly with a dull scraper. I have to stop into a motor
shop and get a wrist pin or lifter. Took pages and pages of sites to not
know what to do. Why is that? But now until now I am back into r.w do I
know how to do it. Before getting the scraper I used a sander and it was
like killing a fly with a hammer. Had 2 coats of primer. Now I'm gonna oil
primer again, shellac ( to eliminate pinkness), then oil paint. I have put a
solid swath of red Bondo glazing putty over the pink Bondo with hardener on
each of the ~140 holes, enough so shrinkage is not gonna be a prob. Much
easier to sand. There was an issue of how much I scraped over the holes,
pinching the inner bondo circle with the scraper, , &/or how much power
sanding, creating a furry ridge around the circle.
Is there any problem with this sequence:?
"bondo" w/ hardener
glazing putty ("Bondo")
shellac
oil prime
oil paint
I am thinking, the reason for the shellac is to hold down the pinkness, but
the question, I am worrying is about compatibility.
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its a learning curve. it should be perfect. i've never had poly come off a
wall, & prob same same for GP. i now have a feel for poly down to the
molecular level - a necc skil!
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John Martin wrote:
> RicodJour wrote:
> >
> > Screw driver steel isn't that hard. Better to use a HSS drill bit
> > shank.
> >
>
> Neither is a HSS drill bit shank. If you non't have a burnisher, use
> the face of a gouge or chisel.
HSS steel bits are commonly in the RC 60 range. Cheap scrapers can be
as low as RC 40 or even less. Higher quality scrapers range up to
about RC 60 with typical hardnesses around 50-55.
No point in using a burnisher that's softer than the scraper, right?
R
RicodJour wrote:
> John Martin wrote:
> > RicodJour wrote:
> > >
> > > Screw driver steel isn't that hard. Better to use a HSS drill bit
> > > shank.
> > >
> >
> > Neither is a HSS drill bit shank. If you non't have a burnisher, use
> > the face of a gouge or chisel.
>
> HSS steel bits are commonly in the RC 60 range. Cheap scrapers can be
> as low as RC 40 or even less. Higher quality scrapers range up to
> about RC 60 with typical hardnesses around 50-55.
>
> No point in using a burnisher that's softer than the scraper, right?
>
> R
If you check some HSS drill bits, you might just find that the shanks
are softer than you think. The fluted portion is indeed quite hard,
but the shanks are deliberately left soft. A chuck doesn't grip
hardened shanks very well.
John Martin
John Martin wrote:
> RicodJour wrote:
> > John Martin wrote:
> > > RicodJour wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Screw driver steel isn't that hard. Better to use a HSS drill bit
> > > > shank.
> > > >
> > >
> > > Neither is a HSS drill bit shank. If you non't have a burnisher, use
> > > the face of a gouge or chisel.
> >
> > HSS steel bits are commonly in the RC 60 range. Cheap scrapers can be
> > as low as RC 40 or even less. Higher quality scrapers range up to
> > about RC 60 with typical hardnesses around 50-55.
> >
> > No point in using a burnisher that's softer than the scraper, right?
> >
> > R
>
look in your yellow pages for the local machinist's supply house. go
there and ask the guy for a jobber length HSS 1/2" drill rod, hard.
it'll be the last burnisher you ever need, and it'll only cost you a
few dollars.
> If you check some HSS drill bits, you might just find that the shanks
> are softer than you think. The fluted portion is indeed quite hard,
> but the shanks are deliberately left soft. A chuck doesn't grip
> hardened shanks very well.
>
> John Martin
"bent" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> just bought a Stanley 3x5x~.050`` scraper, and it ain`t ready, I don`t
> think. Probly has the clear finish on th eedge even. Gonna search the
> web then come back. I don`t have a stone, but I do have SiC papers and a
> flat glass; even a roller, probly good for 3`but not 5`` width. How can I
> sharpen this thingÉ I think it is the burr I need.
>
> Its first job is to scrape off bondo on my door jambs. I am impatient.
> Please help
You can use a file to restore an edge that is no longer straight. You
probably do not need to do this yet. Mount the scraper in a vice and
protect it with wood on each side. If you do not have a burnishing tool use
a large round shank Philips head screw driver. With the scraper edge
pointing up and perpendicular to where you are standing hold the handle in
one hand and the tip of the screw driver in the other. Put a "touch" of
light oil on the edge of the scraper and begin pushing or pulling the screw
driver shank down the entire edge of the scraper with moderate to heavy
pressure and with the shank 90 degrees to the scraper edge. BE CAREFUL not
to nick your self with the sharp corners of the scraper. Do this 6 or 7
times or until you feel a burr on "both "sides of the scraper edge. Then
tilt the shank about 10-15 degrees and repeat 2 or 3 strokes. Then tilt the
opposite direction 10-15 degrees and repeat 2 or 3 strokes.
That should get you started with a bur edge on both sides of the edge.
bent wrote:
> Is there any problem with this sequence:?
> "bondo" w/ hardener
> glazing putty ("Bondo")
You shouldn't need glazing putty. The way to use Bondo is to fill, let
it set up firm but not hard and slick off with a chisel. If you let it
get hard, the best tool is a Surform plane or blade...one of those
things with holes like a vegetable grater.
In either case, a light sanding after should give a primer ready
surface.
> shellac
Pointless
> oil prime
> oil paint
>
> I am thinking, the reason for the shellac is to hold down the
> pinkness, but
> the question, I am worrying is about compatibility.
Pinkness? You mean from the coloring in the Bondo hardener? How is
shellac - a clear material - going to do squat for that? No reason to
do squat, the primer will cover it.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
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LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
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"JeffB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Being in a hurry here won't help. Getting a card scraper ready for the
> first time (actually the first few times) takes patience. But it's worth
> it. A well tuned scraper will take off fine shavings, and quickly smooth a
> surface, fine tune the fit of tenons or the board fitting in a tight dado,
> or remove layers of finishes.
>
Good advice. It takes a bit to learn how to get a scraper ready, and how to
use, but it is well worth it. I have many planes and a drum sander but
sometimes the scraper is the only tool for the job.
I have a bunch of scrapers and before I start a job I put a hook on the long
edges of all of them. I hate to stop in the middle because I lost the edge.
Being in a hurry here won't help. Getting a card scraper ready for the first
time (actually the first few times) takes patience. But it's worth it. A well
tuned scraper will take off fine shavings, and quickly smooth a surface, fine
tune the fit of tenons or the board fitting in a tight dado, or remove layers of
finishes.
On-line resources:
http://www.liutaiomottola.com/Tools/Scraper.htm
http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB8&Number=888448
The honing steps are what people usually try to leave out - that's not a good
idea. Also, turning the burr takes practice.
A kitchen knife steel won't work...
If your scraper produces dust, it isn't working right yet...
--
JeffB
remove no.spam. to email
"deadlock" <nobody@nowhere_yes_its a_cliche.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>>I think it is the burr I need.
>
> You're right.
>
> What you're looking for is a kind off mushroom profile if you were to
> slice through the blade. Try a kitchen knife sharpening steel.
Most of the sharpening steels tend to cut. You do not want to cut. Better
to use a round shank screw driver. You want a smooth surface to form the
burr.
Or, what I use. 1/2" by 3" dowel pin.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> look in your yellow pages for the local machinist's supply house. go
> there and ask the guy for a jobber length HSS 1/2" drill rod, hard.
> it'll be the last burnisher you ever need, and it'll only cost you a
> few dollars.
> > If you check some HSS drill bits, you might just find that the shanks
> > are softer than you think. The fluted portion is indeed quite hard,
> > but the shanks are deliberately left soft. A chuck doesn't grip
> > hardened shanks very well.
> >
> > John Martin
>
RicodJour wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>
>>"deadlock" <nobody@nowhere_yes_its a_cliche.com> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>
>>>>I think it is the burr I need.
>>>
>>>You're right.
>>>
>>>What you're looking for is a kind off mushroom profile if you were to
>>>slice through the blade. Try a kitchen knife sharpening steel.
>>
>>
>>Most of the sharpening steels tend to cut. You do not want to cut. Better
>>to use a round shank screw driver. You want a smooth surface to form the
>>burr.
>
>
> Screw driver steel isn't that hard. Better to use a HSS drill bit
> shank.
Neither is scraper steel... unless you make your own from spring steel.
Then you might get rc50.
er
--
email not valid
Good idea. I have recently acquired a few more so I can do the same.
"Frank Drackman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I have a bunch of scrapers and before I start a job I put a hook on the
long
> edges of all of them. I hate to stop in the middle because I lost the
edge.
>
>
"bent" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> ok another one says max 10 degrees. So after step 1 and 2 , draw file
> with a kitchen sharpener up to say 10 degrees. I may not need to be to
> picky about my burr for this task.ie eg newbee do I need the draw file 10
> degree a t all
'round here somewheres I have a magazine article all about bringing scrapers
up. Mail me at "steve dot barry at bluebottle dot com" and it's yours by
return. Seem to remember its about a 10Mb pdf document though, so make sure
you can accept that sorta size attachment.
"bent" <[email protected]> wrote:
> just bought a Stanley 3x5x~.050`` scraper, and it ain`t ready, I don`t
> think. Probly has the clear finish on th eedge even. Gonna search
> the web then come back. I don`t have a stone, but I do have SiC
> papers and a flat glass; even a roller, probly good for 3`but not 5``
> width. How can I sharpen this thingÉ I think it is the burr I need.
>
> Its first job is to scrape off bondo on my door jambs. I am
> impatient. Please help
Scraping bondo off the door jam is a job for a Paint scraper, not a cabinet
scraper. You will get very frustrated.
bent wrote:
> its a learning curve. it should be perfect. i've never had poly come
> off a
> wall, & prob same same for GP. i now have a feel for poly down to the
> molecular level - a necc skil!
Sorry, I have no idea what you are talking about.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico