"CBlood59" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> Hello everyone,
>
> I'm building some picture frames, and want to know if there are any tricks to
> getting the miters to be exactly 45 degrees. Seems that there must be
> something better than endless tweaking.
>
> Curt Blood
I have made quite a number of picture frames so far. What I have found that works for me is to set the blade tilt using a plastic
45-45-90 drafting triangle. I then cut a couple of miters and check for square. If necessary tweak and try again. It usually
doesn't take more that a few minutes to get it right.
BTW, I am using a 10" Delta Contractors saw.
--
Al Reid
A government big enough to give you everything you want...
is big enough to take away everything you have."
CBlood59 wrote:
> Hello everyone,
>
> I'm building some picture frames, and want to know if there are any tricks
> to
> getting the miters to be exactly 45 degrees. Seems that there must be
> something better than endless tweaking.
>
> Curt Blood
Curt, the problem with technology is that we forget what worked and more
importantly "why" it worked. If you want good solid miters do the simple
thing and make a miter sled. The process is simple and all you need is a
framing square (what a wonderful tool it is).
The following is given assuming you will be using the miter slot on the left
of the blade (that keeps your hands away from the blade).
Cut a piece of 1/2 or 3/4 inch ply or mdf about 18x24.
Measure over to find the distance from the side of your tablesaw miter slot
to the blade. Add 1/2" and using the framing square strike a line along
the bottom of the ply (or mdf). Get or cut a piece of stock that will just
fit in the miter slot and attach it to the ply making sure you keep it dead
even with, and touching the line on its right side (left when you have the
ply upside down). Attach with glue and screws then put the runner in the
miter slot and cut to size.
Using your framing square, place it on the right side of the sled with the
point about centered on the sled. Move it out until both corresponding 2"
marks just intersect the side of the sled. Mark, very carefully along both
legs of the square. Cut some dead square 3/4" stock and carefully attach
along those lines with screws and glue, allowing them to extend far enough
past the side that the back of the piece overhangs the sled.
I have one I have been using for years and would not trade it for the world.
BTW, the reason for striking two lines on the top is two fold. You might
be like me and get one of them a bit off. The other reason is if both are
dead on, you can cut both sides without having to reset.
I know there are more involved sleds, but this one works for me.
Deb
"CBlood59" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hello everyone,
>
> I'm building some picture frames, and want to know if there are any tricks
> to
> getting the miters to be exactly 45 degrees. Seems that there must be
> something better than endless tweaking.
>
> Curt Blood
My Chiwanese Lion-copy miter trimmer does an acceptable job.
On Thu, 21 Oct 2004 09:26:00 GMT, Unisaw A100 <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Bridger John:
>>yabbut I don't have one of those. the list of _theoretical_ methods is
>>long....
>
>
>Now waidaminute. You've got a Lion but no disk finisher?
>
>Wow!
>
>UA100, lover of all things motorized and abrasive and only
>needing a stroker to round out the group...
yeah, I see then belt/disk things from time to time and figure it
would prolly come in handy. maybe someday I'll get one.
I _do_ have a real nice microscope. does that make up for it?
On Wed, 20 Oct 2004 16:24:26 -0500, Unisaw A100 <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Bridger:
>>1) miter sled on the table saw
>>2)miter trimmer (lion trimmer type)
>
>3) Disk sander.
>
>UA100
yabbut I don't have one of those. the list of _theoretical_ methods is
long....
Check with your local Frame Shop, find out if they have a chopper, and have
them miter them on the chopper. (not to be confused with a miter saw) these
use knives instead of rotating blades, a much nicer edge, particularly on
finished stock
"CBlood59" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hello everyone,
>
> I'm building some picture frames, and want to know if there are any tricks
to
> getting the miters to be exactly 45 degrees. Seems that there must be
> something better than endless tweaking.
>
> Curt Blood
"CBlood59" wrote in message
> I'm building some picture frames, and want to know if there are any tricks
to
> getting the miters to be exactly 45 degrees. Seems that there must be
> something better than endless tweaking.
There may be several answers. What tool are you using to cut your miters?
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/04/04
Subject: Re: mitering a picture frame
From: "Swingman" [email protected]
Date: Wed, Oct 20, 2004 2:14 PM
Message-id: <[email protected]>
"CBlood59" wrote in message
> I'm building some picture frames, and want to know if there are any tricks
to
> getting the miters to be exactly 45 degrees. Seems that there must be
> something better than endless tweaking.
There may be several answers. What tool are you using to cut your miters?
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/04/04
Using a TS.
Curt Blood
Now I see. Thanks for the additional details. -- Igor
On Thu, 21 Oct 2004 06:57:56 -0500, "Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote:
>"igor" wrote in message
>
>> I think your solution is the best -- and it is on my list to do before my
>> framemaking starts. Question: Why don't you have stops on both sides of
>> the sled?
>
>Don't really need but one "stop" since you _always_ make the cuts in a
>particular sequence if you want to take advantage of the built-in
>complementary angle and length precision.
>
>Having only one stop allows the two oppopsing sides to be precision cut to
>length (as well as keeping you from cutting out of sequence).
>
>>Yes, it would be a bit (more) awkward to store, but wouldn't
>> that help ensure identical lengths of opposing sides -- i.e., do the
>frame
>> sides to the left and the frame top and bottom to the right of the blade?
>
>For a "stop" on the left, simply cut from "right to left".
>
>IOW, on each piece make your first miter cut to the right of the blade and
>make your second miter cut, for length, to the left of the blade.
>
>Obviously, always cut the two pieces that need to be the same length before
>moving the stop.
>
>Easy/elegant/dummy proof ... and I need all of the latter I can get.
> "CBlood59" wrote in message
> Using a TS.
Consider making a miter sled like the one on the Jig and Fixtures page of my
website.
Big plus is the _exact_ "45 degree" angle basically becomes a moot point
(particularly with the usual widths of picture frame miters) because the
order of cut insures complementary angles, and the jig allows you to use a
stop block to insure the sides are all cut the same length.
These two concepts combined make miter cutting a much easier task, with less
tweaking.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/04/04
On Wed, 20 Oct 2004 12:18:59 -0500, "Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Consider making a miter sled like the one on the Jig and Fixtures page of my
>website.
>
>Big plus is the _exact_ "45 degree" angle basically becomes a moot point
>(particularly with the usual widths of picture frame miters) because the
>order of cut insures complementary angles, and the jig allows you to use a
>stop block to insure the sides are all cut the same length.
>
>These two concepts combined make miter cutting a much easier task, with less
>tweaking.
I think your solution is the best -- and it is on my list to do before my
framemaking starts. Question: Why don't you have stops on both sides of
the sled? Yes, it would be a bit (more) awkward to store, but wouldn't
that help ensure identical lengths of opposing sides -- i.e., do the frame
sides to the left and the frame top and bottom to the right of the blade?
TIA. -- Igor
"igor" wrote in message
> I think your solution is the best -- and it is on my list to do before my
> framemaking starts. Question: Why don't you have stops on both sides of
> the sled?
Don't really need but one "stop" since you _always_ make the cuts in a
particular sequence if you want to take advantage of the built-in
complementary angle and length precision.
Having only one stop allows the two oppopsing sides to be precision cut to
length (as well as keeping you from cutting out of sequence).
>Yes, it would be a bit (more) awkward to store, but wouldn't
> that help ensure identical lengths of opposing sides -- i.e., do the
frame
> sides to the left and the frame top and bottom to the right of the blade?
For a "stop" on the left, simply cut from "right to left".
IOW, on each piece make your first miter cut to the right of the blade and
make your second miter cut, for length, to the left of the blade.
Obviously, always cut the two pieces that need to be the same length before
moving the stop.
Easy/elegant/dummy proof ... and I need all of the latter I can get.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/04/04
"CBlood59" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hello everyone,
>
> I'm building some picture frames, and want to know if there are any tricks
to
> getting the miters to be exactly 45 degrees. Seems that there must be
> something better than endless tweaking.
>
> Curt Blood
I am able to do the job with my table saw alone. But I have a sliding table
that makes it a piece of cake. They come out right every time.
One approach to "fine tuning" a miter quickly is with a hand plane and a
shop made miter trimmer. See Jeff Gorman's page on shooting planes and scan
down the page to the picture of the miter trimmer.
http://www.amgron.clara.net/planingpoints/shootingboards/shootingindex.htm.
If you're doing this commercially, then the fastest way is probably the
dedicated miter slicer. I think they cost about $150-$200.
Bob
"Dr. deb" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
(snipped interesting stuff)
>
> I know there are more involved sleds, but this one works for me.
>
> Deb
>
>
Can you post a pic in binaries?
Mekon
"CBlood59" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hello everyone,
>
> I'm building some picture frames, and want to know if there are any tricks
> to
> getting the miters to be exactly 45 degrees. Seems that there must be
> something better than endless tweaking.
>
> Curt Blood
Hi, Curt,
The other factor to take into account is that the lengths of opposing sides
must be exactly equal. If they're not, then the most perfect 45 degree
mitres will not fit.
HTH
Frank
---
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On Wed, 20 Oct 2004 09:08:03 -0500, "Dr. deb" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>I have one I have been using for years and would not trade it for the world.
The World just called asking about a possible trade. Interested?
On 20 Oct 2004 12:15:50 GMT, [email protected] (CBlood59) wrote:
>Hello everyone,
>
>I'm building some picture frames, and want to know if there are any tricks to
>getting the miters to be exactly 45 degrees. Seems that there must be
>something better than endless tweaking.
>
>Curt Blood
I have 2 reliable methods.
1) miter sled on the table saw
2)miter trimmer (lion trimmer type)
"CBlood59" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm building some picture frames, and want to know if there are any tricks
to
> getting the miters to be exactly 45 degrees. Seems that there must be
> something better than endless tweaking.
Here's a link to a much simpler shooting plane for miters.
http://www.geocities.com/plybench/tmp.jpg
Bob
There are two critical items for good picture frames. One is the angle
cut itself which is discussed in the other post. The other and equally
important is the length of the sides. You can have a most precise
angle cut but if the opposite side are not precisely equal you will get
poor corners.
I cut the miter on the sides so they are about a quarter inch longer
than I need for the picture. I them match the opposite sides and fasten
them together with an inconspicuous nail or a good clamp.
I the carefully trim the paired side by an eight of an inch on each end.
Even with the above procedure if the piece slide during the final miter
cuts, they will not be true and again bad corners.
CBlood59 wrote:
> Hello everyone,
>
> I'm building some picture frames, and want to know if there are any tricks to
> getting the miters to be exactly 45 degrees. Seems that there must be
> something better than endless tweaking.
>
> Curt Blood
On 20 Oct 2004 12:15:50 GMT, [email protected] (CBlood59) wrote:
>I'm building some picture frames, and want to know if there are any tricks to
>getting the miters to be exactly 45 degrees.
Cut them to exactly 45° in the first place. This might take some
adjustment and repeated test-cutting, but it's easier than trying to
adjust them afterwards. Like dovetails, mitres are best cut in one
quick pass, as "adjustment" afterwards never really works.
Or else find a cast iron mitre guillotine.
"Frank McVey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi, Curt,
>
> The other factor to take into account is that the lengths of opposing
> sides must be exactly equal. If they're not, then the most perfect 45
> degree mitres will not fit.
Exactly and just as important. I suggest using a stop for parallel sides to
insure exact equal length.