I built a grand plywood dumpster off to th side of the driveway (it
looks like those metal ones but is wood and has a weight-bananced lid
- our garbage service is $65/mo, you have to take the cans weeksly to
the end of the road and I am often away to boot - and want to shingle
it in
those amazing wavy line patterns often seen on old building in
england. Does anyone know how this is done? Does one shorten the
shingles in that part of a course, does one add multiple shingles
underneath a course, to get the 3-D and ripple effect or what? I
thought
I'd start by applying the shingles with hot glue to see how it might
come together, then take it all
apart and nail/staple once it looks satisfactory, but any thought or
references would be appreciated...Thanks for any help.
In article <[email protected]>, Barclay
<[email protected]> wrote:
> I built a grand plywood dumpster off to th side of the driveway (it
> looks like those metal ones but is wood and has a weight-bananced lid
> - our garbage service is $65/mo, you have to take the cans weeksly to
> the end of the road and I am often away to boot - and want to shingle
> it in
> those amazing wavy line patterns often seen on old building in
> england. Does anyone know how this is done?
> snip
This site has all kinds of fancy shingles:
http://www.fullmoondesigns.com/FancyShingles/Page2.html
--
http://sawdustmaking.com
I've done a few cedar roofs, but haven't done the type of work you're after.
You can expose 18 inch machine cut cedar shingles as much as 7.5 inches to the
weather on a vertical surface. So go nuts with the layers, just making sure to
cover the preceeding course's key(the space between the shingles). On a pitch
of 4 in 12 to "steep mansard", the exposure should be no more than 5 inches.
The real pertinant instructions usually come with every bundle of
cedar(starters, fastener type, etc.). Tom
><b
[email protected]> wrote:
>> I built a grand plywood dumpster off to th side of the driveway (it
>> looks like those metal ones but is wood and has a weight-bananced lid
>> - our garbage service is $65/mo, you have to take the cans weeksly to
>> the end of the road and I am often away to boot - and want to shingle
>> it in those amazing wavy line patterns often seen on old building in
>> england. Does anyone know how this is done?
Someday, it'll all be over....
replying to Barclay, Steve wrote:
> barclayjoan wrote:
>
> I built a grand plywood dumpster off to th side of the driveway (it
> looks like those metal ones but is wood and has a weight-bananced lid
> - our garbage service is $65/mo, you have to take the cans weeksly to
> the end of the road and I am often away to boot - and want to shingle
> it in
> those amazing wavy line patterns often seen on old building in
> england. Does anyone know how this is done? Does one shorten the
> shingles in that part of a course, does one add multiple shingles
> underneath a course, to get the 3-D and ripple effect or what? I
> thought
> I'd start by applying the shingles with hot glue to see how it might
> come together, then take it all
> apart and nail/staple once it looks satisfactory, but any thought or
> references would be appreciated...Thanks for any help.
@ barclayjoan
To make a wave pattern in a sidewall application you begin by defining the
wave you want, a repeating wave, same frequency and duration repeating
with 5" exposure to weather would require two different sets of shingle
cuts. Eg. a wave that is 10" from peak to trough vertically and 2' from
peak to trough horizontally would build like this: Connect the two
segments of the circle to create the full wave ~ onto sheets of plywood so
you have 4 eight foot patterns to work with 2 for A and 2 for B courses,
center of the peak goes to center of the plywood. I like the 2' reflection
because of the ease of the repetition and the resulting 5 7/8" shingles
look good. Buy 3x the amount of shingles necessary to cover the area, set
aside any shingle less than 5 7/8, rip the remaining to 5 7/8, this allows
a 3/16-1/4" keyway, depending on the finish of the shingle, and proper
nailing with no shiners. Divide the patterns into sections reflecting the
shingles plus space for keyway, start from the center and remember to
offset pattern #B by half of a shingle in order to provide for proper
overlaps in each course. There are your wave courses, 'A' should be 8
shingles and 'B' should be 9 shingles, cut it with a band saw, jig saw,
scroll saw, cnc, or router with a jig. Its quite tedious, but I use a
router to plow out the area for the keyway and glue in a dividing strip to
create the space between shingles, the exposed portion of the strip will
be 1/16" smaller than the thickness of the bottom of the shingles. Take
the second A pattern plywood (yes all of the plywood patterns are the
same, but label them anyway, you will thank me) and create a sandwich,
slide the shingles into the resulting slots and use a cutoff bit with a
top or bottom guide bearing and have at it. You need to make sure that the
thickest part of your shingle is still left on the shingle so that none of
your cut shingles are shorter than what you started with. This will keep
the wall dry and while it may not look like it, you maintain the triple
overlap of the shingles. I mark the top of each shingle with its placement
in the pattern, A1-A8: B1-B9 box them up and send them to be prefinished.
If your willing to take this on, you should already know how to start a
wall so Im leaving that out. But level lines do not lie to you. Kind of
fancy for a dumpster but looks great on a beach house gable. Sorry for the
12 year delay in answering!
--
replying to Steve, Michael Nikolas wrote:
Hi Steve, I would be interested in chatting with you to see if you would be
interested doing this work on the entire house for me?
--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/woodworking/decorative-waves-in-cedar-shingle-patterns-how-to-do-this-149526-.htm
On Tue, 23 May 2017 09:49:16 -0400, Ed Pawlowski <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 5/23/2017 12:14 AM, Michael Nikolas wrote:
>> replying to Steve, Michael Nikolas wrote:
>> Hi Steve, I would be interested in chatting with you to see if you would be
>> interested doing this work on the entire house for me?
>>
>
>In the 14 years since the original post. Steve hs perfected his method
>and now is working around the world. Soon you will see the unveiling of
>the remodeled Great Pyramid and he is starting on the Roman Colosseum in
>a few weeks. Your house can't be done until 2021.
He'll be done early. The Coliseum has too much water damage to
re-roof.
On 5/23/2017 12:14 AM, Michael Nikolas wrote:
> replying to Steve, Michael Nikolas wrote:
> Hi Steve, I would be interested in chatting with you to see if you would be
> interested doing this work on the entire house for me?
>
In the 14 years since the original post. Steve hs perfected his method
and now is working around the world. Soon you will see the unveiling of
the remodeled Great Pyramid and he is starting on the Roman Colosseum in
a few weeks. Your house can't be done until 2021.
"Barclay" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I built a grand plywood dumpster off to th side of the driveway (it
> looks like those metal ones but is wood and has a weight-bananced lid
> - our garbage service is $65/mo, you have to take the cans weeksly to
> the end of the road and I am often away to boot - and want to shingle
> it in
> those amazing wavy line patterns often seen on old building in
> england. Does anyone know how this is done? Does one shorten the
> shingles in that part of a course, does one add multiple shingles
> underneath a course, to get the 3-D and ripple effect or what? I
> thought
> I'd start by applying the shingles with hot glue to see how it might
> come together, then take it all
> apart and nail/staple once it looks satisfactory, but any thought or
> references would be appreciated...Thanks for any help.
If you want asphalt fiberglass shingles, they are called architectural
shingles.
--
Jim in NC