Finally a happy Leigh Dovetail Jig user!

Ken,
Tis nice to hear a happy report. A dedicated router is a good idea but the
temptation will be to leave the DT bit in. Not a good idea. The collet will
lose its spring. Best to remove and then reset...but just cut into a block of
wood or something for an easy setup block.

That "kick ass" Leigh D4 jjig will just sit and do nothing until you 'kick
it's ass', so will a second, "kick ass" router. But if you " seriously kick
ass" just right, the three of you combined can indeed "kick ass" and make
"kick ass" dovetails.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 9/08/03


"jim 'Kick Ass' wilson" wrote in message

> So Ken, I take it that you recommend this jig. I've been looking at
> dovetail jigs and the Leigh D4 certainly appears to kick ass. I just
> need to save up a little more money to get one. Of course, now the
> other thread wants me to get a second router so I can really kick ass
> when I make dovetails.

On 9/9/03 3:41 AM, in article [email protected],
"Ken Lamb" <[email protected]> opined:

> Greetings,
> I just thought I would post that after the many helpful guys on this group,
> I am making beautiful half blind dovetails with the Leigh D4 jig.
> Thanks again for all the help.
> What I learned:
> 1.Dedicate a router once you find the proper setting.
> 2.Straight lumber
> 3.Straight lumber
> 4.Enter the router into the jig pointing the same direction each time.
> 5.Learn the feel of the router riding on the jig. Don't lift up.
> Now to figure out how to contain the saw dust! <g>
> Happy woodworking,
>
> Ken Lamb
>
>
> ---
> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
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>
>
Another suggestion use photo mount type glue to attach sandpaper to where
the stock rests. It will prevent slipping.
--
===================================================================
"When a broad table is to be made, and the edges of planks do not fit, the
artist takes a little from both, and makes a good joint. In like manner
here, both sides must part with some of their demands," Benjamin Franklin
(1706-1790)
===================================================================

Why? I've got the Leigh. It seems easy enough as long as I don't do
something stupid, like check for bit centering, and it goes 24".

"Joe" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Have you looked at the new Akeda dovetail jig yet?
> It's a lot easier than the Leigh.
>

Have you looked at the new Akeda dovetail jig yet?
It's a lot easier than the Leigh.

"George" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Two is really a help when cutting through dovetails. For half blind, one
is
> enough.
>
> MAKE SURE YOU GET THEM CENTERED.
>
> Oh yes, a 10 amp and a 15 amp would be my two choices, though the 15 is a
> bit bulky. Works great in the table, though.
>
> "jim wilson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > So Ken, I take it that you recommend this jig. I've been looking at
> > dovetail jigs and the Leigh D4 certainly appears to kick ass. I just
> > need to save up a little more money to get one. Of course, now the
> > other thread wants me to get a second router so I can really kick ass
> > when I make dovetails.
>
>

"B a r r y B u r k e J r ." <[email protected]> wrote
in message news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 8 Sep 2003 23:41:10 -0400, "Ken Lamb"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >2.Straight lumber
> >3.Straight lumber
>
> These are actually my #1 and #2 of any project I care about. <G>
>
> Barry
Barry,
Since implementing this in my projects they seem to go together.<g>


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"jim wilson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Ken Lamb" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> > Greetings,
> > I just thought I would post that after the many helpful guys on this
group,
> > I am making beautiful half blind dovetails with the Leigh D4 jig.
> > Thanks again for all the help.
> ><snip>>
>
> So Ken, I take it that you recommend this jig. I've been looking at
> dovetail jigs and the Leigh D4 certainly appears to kick ass. I just
> need to save up a little more money to get one. Of course, now the
> other thread wants me to get a second router so I can really kick ass
> when I make dovetails.

Yes I do!
It took me some playing around before I asked some questions on this board.
Then I watched the video and read the manual again after using it a few
times.
It all became clear.
I have made HB dovetails in American Walnut, Cherry, Rock maple, H.
Mahogany, and Braz. Rosewood. Just the slightest bit of tear out in the
Mahogany. If you follow the directions on how to feed into the template. No
problems really.
I enjoy using the jig now. I dreaded it at first.
I recommend the 8mm bits and the collet adapter.
Now I'm an expert recommending things. <g>
Seriously the 8mm is more rigid.
Best,
Ken


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Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
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"Ken Lamb" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Greetings,
> I just thought I would post that after the many helpful guys on this group,
> I am making beautiful half blind dovetails with the Leigh D4 jig.
> Thanks again for all the help.
> What I learned:
> 1.Dedicate a router once you find the proper setting.
> 2.Straight lumber
> 3.Straight lumber
> 4.Enter the router into the jig pointing the same direction each time.
> 5.Learn the feel of the router riding on the jig. Don't lift up.
> Now to figure out how to contain the saw dust! <g>
> Happy woodworking,
>
> Ken Lamb
>
>
> ---
> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.515 / Virus Database: 313 - Release Date: 9/1/03


So Ken, I take it that you recommend this jig. I've been looking at
dovetail jigs and the Leigh D4 certainly appears to kick ass. I just
need to save up a little more money to get one. Of course, now the
other thread wants me to get a second router so I can really kick ass
when I make dovetails.

"George" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Two is really a help when cutting through dovetails. For half blind, one is
> enough.
>
> MAKE SURE YOU GET THEM CENTERED.
>

Do you mean centering the router bit in the router? Or are you talking
about centering the dovetails.. I've never heard of a method of tuning
a router so the bit is centered.. if this is possible, I'd like to
learn.

"JLucas ILS" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ken,
> Tis nice to hear a happy report. A dedicated router is a good idea but
the
> temptation will be to leave the DT bit in. Not a good idea. The collet
will
> lose its spring. Best to remove and then reset...but just cut into a block
of
> wood or something for an easy setup block.

That sounds reasonable.... but how many years does it take for a collet to
loose its spring, and would it matter? I have had a 1611 Bosch hanging
upside down in a router table since late 1988. Maybe mine has lost its
spring but I would not know how to recognize it. The only time that there
is not a bit in the router is when I change bits.

Move the base, if the guide is mounted to the base, to ensure the bit is
centered. They also make cones for a centering aid. If you have some of
the guides mounted otherwise, there is normally a method to center provided.

Some plunge routers will respond to a tap or two when they are
half-tightened to get the bit centered.

"jim wilson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "George" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> > Two is really a help when cutting through dovetails. For half blind,
one is
> > enough.
> >
> > MAKE SURE YOU GET THEM CENTERED.
> >
>
> Do you mean centering the router bit in the router? Or are you talking
> about centering the dovetails.. I've never heard of a method of tuning
> a router so the bit is centered.. if this is possible, I'd like to
> learn.

"Ken Lamb" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...

> Now to figure out how to contain the saw dust! <g>

I bought the dust collection accessory ($38.50 at Lee Valley) and it
improves the dust collection immensely and consequently makes using the jig
even MORE enjoyable. Definitely worth it.

Mike

On Mon, 8 Sep 2003 23:41:10 -0400, "Ken Lamb"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>2.Straight lumber
>3.Straight lumber

These are actually my #1 and #2 of any project I care about. <G>

Barry