I plan to replace the stick on wall mirror in my wifes bathroom with two 32=
x36 framed mirrors made of red oak to match the cabinets. I am not a newbie=
wood worker but not very experienced either. I just bought some 1/4 inch s=
hank rail and stile bits to play with. My intention is to use4 inch stock (=
WHich I think is 3.5 nominal???) My thought was to use my bits and to make =
the frame simlar to cabinet doors sticking the glass in the middle. Maybe u=
sing a french cleat to hang it.
What do you think? WOuld this look acceptable or be difficult to do? WOuld =
it be better to use mitered corners or to just cut a rabbet for the mirror =
to sit in instead of a mortise like a cabinet door?
I appreciate it!
On Thursday, April 11, 2013 11:04:35 AM UTC-5, [email protected] wrote:
> I plan to replace the stick on wall mirror in my wifes bathroom with two =
32x36 framed mirrors made of red oak to match the cabinets. I am not a newb=
ie wood worker but not very experienced either. I just bought some 1/4 inch=
shank rail and stile bits to play with. My intention is to use4 inch stock=
(WHich I think is 3.5 nominal???) My thought was to use my bits and to mak=
e the frame simlar to cabinet doors sticking the glass in the middle. Maybe=
using a french cleat to hang it.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> What do you think? WOuld this look acceptable or be difficult to do? WOul=
d it be better to use mitered corners or to just cut a rabbet for the mirro=
r to sit in instead of a mortise like a cabinet door?
>=20
>=20
>=20
> I appreciate it!
So in essence, even if I use the cabinet bits and install the mirror like a=
raised panel, it is still really "replaceable" by performing the above and=
routing out the center groove so a new mirror can be placed from behind. (=
I know it is more work).
I actually thought about routing out a rabit from behind for the mirror to =
go into, however not sure how I could create the inside bead and get it loo=
k correct without mitering the rail and stile. I am not sure how this would=
hold up in terms of strength.
I had planed on buying a "french cleat" to mount the mirror. However I thin=
k this will cause the mirror to stick out from the wall maybe 1/4 of an inc=
h. Can anyone think of a better way to mount that would be easy I could do =
by myself but would allow the mirror to be flush with the wall?
On 4/11/2013 11:04 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> I plan to replace the stick on wall mirror in my wifes bathroom with two 32x36 framed mirrors made of red oak to match the cabinets. I am not a newbie wood worker but not very experienced either. I just bought some 1/4 inch shank rail and stile bits to play with. My intention is to use4 inch stock (WHich I think is 3.5 nominal???) My thought was to use my bits and to make the frame simlar to cabinet doors sticking the glass in the middle. Maybe using a french cleat to hang it.
>
> What do you think? WOuld this look acceptable or be difficult to do? WOuld it be better to use mitered corners or to just cut a rabbet for the mirror to sit in instead of a mortise like a cabinet door?
>
> I appreciate it!
>
What would look acceptable would be strictly up to you.
Probably the strongest joint in this situation and with the least amount
of effort would be to lap the joints and to cut a rabbet on the inside
back edge.
If for instance you make the back rabbet the 1/4" deep, you can to all
of the rabbet cuts to the stock before assembly. Then cut out the lap
on the rails the same depth as the rabbet and equal in length to the
width of the stock and on the opposite side of the rabbet.
Then cut the lap for the stiles equal in length as the width of the
stock but this time 1/2" deep and on the same side as the rabbets.
Some times a picture is worth a thousand words,
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8639793929/in/photostream/lightbox/
"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote
>
> In which case your bit set can make a groove for the mirror. However, the
> mirror has to be inserted before you put on the last rail or stile and you
> would not be able to replace it if it were to be broken in the future.
>
Yep, my thought as well. I was taught, many years ago, to always look at
any kind of glass or mirror as breakable. Because they are. And may need
to be repaired or replaced some day. And not to do anything to impede that
repair process. You need to get the old glass/mirror out and get the new
glass/mirror in. It is basic. And essential if you have any kids around.
Or even to visit. I remember. I was kid at one time. (several centuries
ago.) And things get broken. Intentional or not.
I also remember an old definition my grandfather taught me. What makes us
different from savages is that we can fix something if it gets broken. I
guess that makes me a rung or two above the savages! LOL
On Apr 11, 1:36=A0pm, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>
> That is actually the basic design that I use on all of my cabinet "back
> face frames" now. =A0The technique makes for a clean back side.
>
> I made the rabbets in the example 1/4" deep and 3/4" wide, A very thin
> bead of glass clear caulk adhesive in the rabbet could hold the mirror
> or less permanent he could use some double stick foam attachment tape.
Still with Leon on this deal. In case someone isn't following along
100%, here is an excellent illustrated discussion on the glass
mounting technique to piggy back Leon's Sketchup draft:
http://www.splitlevel.net/cabinet-glass.html
Also, Leon I have used different versions of the hardware on this
page http://goo.gl/Vzbg8 for display cases, cabinet glass, as well
as mounting mirrors. The little thumbscrew keepers were great on the
display cases I built as they folks were able to take the glass out of
the frame themselves (no silicone adhesive) to be able to keep the
glass sparkly clean without getting glass cleaners on the cases. They
hold very well, too. And being tool less to remove the glass, they
were a real hit.
(Don't worry about the compressed url it is a Google product, nothing
from China or Russia).
Robert
On Thursday, April 11, 2013 11:04:35 AM UTC-5, [email protected] wrote:
> I plan to replace the stick on wall mirror in my wifes bathroom with two =
32x36 framed mirrors made of red oak to match the cabinets. I am not a newb=
ie wood worker but not very experienced either. I just bought some 1/4 inch=
shank rail and stile bits to play with. My intention is to use4 inch stock=
(WHich I think is 3.5 nominal???) My thought was to use my bits and to mak=
e the frame simlar to cabinet doors sticking the glass in the middle. Maybe=
using a french cleat to hang it.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> What do you think? WOuld this look acceptable or be difficult to do? WOul=
d it be better to use mitered corners or to just cut a rabbet for the mirro=
r to sit in instead of a mortise like a cabinet door?
>=20
>=20
>=20
> I appreciate it!
Well, then what about using the cabinet bits but using pocket screws instea=
d of glue to hold it togther?
I know it could happen, but the mirror that is up there now has been there =
since 1998 without any breaks.
On 4/12/2013 9:14 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Thu, 11 Apr 2013 09:04:35 -0700 (PDT), [email protected] wrote:
>
>> I plan to replace the stick on wall mirror in my wifes bathroom with two 32x36 framed mirrors made of red oak to match the cabinets. I am not a newbie wood worker but not very experienced either. I just bought some 1/4 inch shank rail and stile bits to play with. My intention is to use4 inch stock (WHich I think is 3.5 nominal???) My thought was to use my bits and to make the frame simlar to cabinet doors sticking the glass in the middle. Maybe using a french cleat to hang it.
>>
>> What do you think? WOuld this look acceptable or be difficult to do? WOuld it be better to use mitered corners or to just cut a rabbet for the mirror to sit in instead of a mortise like a cabinet door?
>>
>> I appreciate it!
>
>
> If you place a mirror in a rabbet do you have to color the rabbet?
>
> I saw guy on TV do that but didn't hear the explanation.
>
The mirror will reflect the rabbet, finished or unfinished, around the
perimeter.
On 4/12/2013 7:34 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Thursday, April 11, 2013 11:04:35 AM UTC-5, [email protected] wrote:
>> I plan to replace the stick on wall mirror in my wifes bathroom with two 32x36 framed mirrors made of red oak to match the cabinets. I am not a newbie wood worker but not very experienced either. I just bought some 1/4 inch shank rail and stile bits to play with. My intention is to use4 inch stock (WHich I think is 3.5 nominal???) My thought was to use my bits and to make the frame simlar to cabinet doors sticking the glass in the middle. Maybe using a french cleat to hang it.
>>
>>
>>
>> What do you think? WOuld this look acceptable or be difficult to do? WOuld it be better to use mitered corners or to just cut a rabbet for the mirror to sit in instead of a mortise like a cabinet door?
>>
>>
>>
>> I appreciate it!
>
> So in essence, even if I use the cabinet bits and install the mirror like a raised panel, it is still really "replaceable" by performing the above and routing out the center groove so a new mirror can be placed from behind. (I know it is more work).
>
> I actually thought about routing out a rabit from behind for the mirror to go into, however not sure how I could create the inside bead and get it look correct without mitering the rail and stile. I am not sure how this would hold up in terms of strength.
>
> I had planed on buying a "french cleat" to mount the mirror. However I think this will cause the mirror to stick out from the wall maybe 1/4 of an inch. Can anyone think of a better way to mount that would be easy I could do by myself but would allow the mirror to be flush with the wall?
>
Just a heads up here. Respond directly to whom you are communication
with vs. starting a new post under your own posts. It looks like you
are talking to yourself otherwise.
[email protected] (Scott Lurndal) wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> [email protected] writes:
>
>>I had planed on buying a "french cleat" to mount the mirror. However I
>>thin= k this will cause the mirror to stick out from the wall maybe
>>1/4 of an inc= h. Can anyone think of a better way to mount that would
>>be easy I could do = by myself but would allow the mirror to be flush
>>with the wall?
>
> Use a router with a keyhole bit to make a keyhole on each stile.
>
> scott
I second that opinion.
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
On 4/11/2013 12:15 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Apr 11, 11:38 am, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>
>> Probably the strongest joint in this situation and with the least amount
>> of effort would be to lap the joints and to cut a rabbet on the inside
>> back edge.
>>
>> If for instance you make the back rabbet the 1/4" deep, you can to all
>> of the rabbet cuts to the stock before assembly. Then cut out the lap
>> on the rails the same depth as the rabbet and equal in length to the
>> width of the stock and on the opposite side of the rabbet.
>>
>> Then cut the lap for the stiles equal in length as the width of the
>> stock but this time 1/2" deep and on the same side as the rabbets.
>>
>> Some times a picture is worth a thousand words,
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8639793929/in/photostream/light...
>
> Nicely done, Leon. Couldn't agree more with all of that, especially
> the idea of cutting the rabbet on the back to hold a mirror or other
> glass.
>
> There are all kinds of "friendly" mechanical devices available to hold
> the glass onto the frame if he follows your advice.
>
> Robert
>
Well thank you Robert!
That is actually the basic design that I use on all of my cabinet "back
face frames" now. The technique makes for a clean back side.
I made the rabbets in the example 1/4" deep and 3/4" wide, A very thin
bead of glass clear caulk adhesive in the rabbet could hold the mirror
or less permanent he could use some double stick foam attachment tape.
On Thursday, April 11, 2013 11:04:35 AM UTC-5, [email protected] wrote:
> I plan to replace the stick on wall mirror in my wifes bathroom with two =
32x36 framed mirrors made of red oak to match the cabinets. I am not a newb=
ie wood worker but not very experienced either. I just bought some 1/4 inch=
shank rail and stile bits to play with. My intention is to use4 inch stock=
(WHich I think is 3.5 nominal???) My thought was to use my bits and to mak=
e the frame simlar to cabinet doors sticking the glass in the middle. Maybe=
using a french cleat to hang it.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> What do you think? WOuld this look acceptable or be difficult to do? WOul=
d it be better to use mitered corners or to just cut a rabbet for the mirro=
r to sit in instead of a mortise like a cabinet door?
>=20
>=20
>=20
> I appreciate it!
On Apr 11, 11:38=A0am, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
> Probably the strongest joint in this situation and with the least amount
> of effort would be to lap the joints and to cut a rabbet on the inside
> back edge.
>
> If for instance you make the back rabbet the 1/4" deep, you can to all
> of the rabbet cuts to the stock before assembly. =A0Then cut out the lap
> on the rails the same depth as the rabbet and =A0equal in length to the
> width of the stock and on the opposite side of the rabbet.
>
> Then cut the lap for the stiles equal in length as the width of the
> stock but this time 1/2" deep and on the same side as the rabbets.
>
> Some times a picture is worth a thousand words,
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8639793929/in/photostream/light...
Nicely done, Leon. Couldn't agree more with all of that, especially
the idea of cutting the rabbet on the back to hold a mirror or other
glass.
There are all kinds of "friendly" mechanical devices available to hold
the glass onto the frame if he follows your advice.
Robert
On Thursday, April 11, 2013 11:04:35 AM UTC-5, [email protected] wrote:
> I plan to replace the stick on wall mirror in my wifes bathroom with two =
32x36 framed mirrors made of red oak to match the cabinets. I am not a newb=
ie wood worker but not very experienced either. I just bought some 1/4 inch=
shank rail and stile bits to play with. My intention is to use4 inch stock=
(WHich I think is 3.5 nominal???) My thought was to use my bits and to mak=
e the frame simlar to cabinet doors sticking the glass in the middle. Maybe=
using a french cleat to hang it.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> What do you think? WOuld this look acceptable or be difficult to do? WOul=
d it be better to use mitered corners or to just cut a rabbet for the mirro=
r to sit in instead of a mortise like a cabinet door?
>=20
>=20
>=20
> I appreciate it!
I guess I like the inside bead like a cabinet door looks.
On Thursday, April 11, 2013 11:04:35 AM UTC-5, [email protected] wrote:
> I plan to replace the stick on wall mirror in my wifes bathroom with two =
32x36 framed mirrors made of red oak to match the cabinets. I am not a newb=
ie wood worker but not very experienced either. I just bought some 1/4 inch=
shank rail and stile bits to play with. My intention is to use4 inch stock=
(WHich I think is 3.5 nominal???) My thought was to use my bits and to mak=
e the frame simlar to cabinet doors sticking the glass in the middle. Maybe=
using a french cleat to hang it.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> What do you think? WOuld this look acceptable or be difficult to do? WOul=
d it be better to use mitered corners or to just cut a rabbet for the mirro=
r to sit in instead of a mortise like a cabinet door?
>=20
>=20
>=20
> I appreciate it!
I have a benchtop router table.
On Thu, 11 Apr 2013 09:04:35 -0700 (PDT), [email protected] wrote:
>I plan to replace the stick on wall mirror in my wifes bathroom with two 32x36 framed mirrors made of red oak to match the cabinets. I am not a newbie wood worker but not very experienced either. I just bought some 1/4 inch shank rail and stile bits to play with. My intention is to use4 inch stock (WHich I think is 3.5 nominal???) My thought was to use my bits and to make the frame simlar to cabinet doors sticking the glass in the middle. Maybe using a french cleat to hang it.
>
>What do you think? WOuld this look acceptable or be difficult to do? WOuld it be better to use mitered corners or to just cut a rabbet for the mirror to sit in instead of a mortise like a cabinet door?
>
>I appreciate it!
If you place a mirror in a rabbet do you have to color the rabbet?
I saw guy on TV do that but didn't hear the explanation.
On 4/11/2013 9:04 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> I plan to replace the stick on wall mirror in my wifes bathroom with two 32x36 framed mirrors made of red oak to match the cabinets. I am not a newbie wood worker but not very experienced either. I just bought some 1/4 inch shank rail and stile bits to play with. My intention is to use4 inch stock (WHich I think is 3.5 nominal???) My thought was to use my bits and to make the frame simlar to cabinet doors sticking the glass in the middle. Maybe using a french cleat to hang it.
>
> What do you think? WOuld this look acceptable or be difficult to do? WOuld it be better to use mitered corners or to just cut a rabbet for the mirror to sit in instead of a mortise like a cabinet door?
>
> I appreciate it!
>
i have built a lot of these. without a table, you will not be able to
make a slot for the mirror, and are limited to cutting a rabbet to inset
the mirror. with an inset, you now need a way to hold the mirror into
that inset. they make plastic buttons for this, and i believe places
like rockler carries them.
it would be best if you used mortise/tenons for this. you need to make
the top and bottom rails have the tenons in the end grain, rather than
in the end grain of the vertical pieces. doing so will support the
weight of the mirror on the strength of the tenon; the other way will
support the weight of the mirror on the strength of your gluing job.
you could also use a pinned 1/2 lap joint.
[email protected] wrote:
> On Thursday, April 11, 2013 11:04:35 AM UTC-5, [email protected]
> wrote:
>> I plan to replace the stick on wall mirror in my wifes bathroom with
>> two 32x36 framed mirrors made of red oak to match the cabinets. I am
>> not a newbie wood worker but not very experienced either. I just
>> bought some 1/4 inch shank rail and stile bits to play with. My
>> intention is to use4 inch stock (WHich I think is 3.5 nominal???) My
>> thought was to use my bits and to make the frame simlar to cabinet
>> doors sticking the glass in the middle. Maybe using a french cleat
>> to hang it.
>>
>>
>>
>> What do you think? WOuld this look acceptable or be difficult to do?
>> WOuld it be better to use mitered corners or to just cut a rabbet
>> for the mirror to sit in instead of a mortise like a cabinet door?
>>
>>
>>
>> I appreciate it!
>
> I have a benchtop router table.
In which case your bit set can make a groove for the mirror. However, the
mirror has to be inserted before you put on the last rail or stile and you
would not be able to replace it if it were to be broken in the future.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net
On 4/12/2013 7:14 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Thu, 11 Apr 2013 09:04:35 -0700 (PDT), [email protected] wrote:
>
>> I plan to replace the stick on wall mirror in my wifes bathroom with two 32x36 framed mirrors made of red oak to match the cabinets. I am not a newbie wood worker but not very experienced either. I just bought some 1/4 inch shank rail and stile bits to play with. My intention is to use4 inch stock (WHich I think is 3.5 nominal???) My thought was to use my bits and to make the frame simlar to cabinet doors sticking the glass in the middle. Maybe using a french cleat to hang it.
>>
>> What do you think? WOuld this look acceptable or be difficult to do? WOuld it be better to use mitered corners or to just cut a rabbet for the mirror to sit in instead of a mortise like a cabinet door?
>>
>> I appreciate it!
>
>
> If you place a mirror in a rabbet do you have to color the rabbet?
>
> I saw guy on TV do that but didn't hear the explanation.
>
you will see the back side of the rabbet reflected in the edge of the
mirror. it should be the same color as the faces, so yes, you may have
to finish it the same way.
[email protected] wrote:
> So in essence, even if I use the cabinet bits and install the mirror
> like a raised panel, it is still really "replaceable" by performing
> the above and routing out the center groove so a new mirror can be
> placed from behind. (I know it is more work).
Correct. using a rabbet in the back for the mirror, your rail/stile bits
are only needed for the coping of rails to stiles. If it/they have a
separate cutter for the groove, you can just not use it.
_________________
> I actually thought about routing out a rabit from behind for the
> mirror to go into, however not sure how I could create the inside
> bead and get it look correct without mitering the rail and stile. I
> am not sure how this would hold up in terms of strength.
>
> I had planed on buying a "french cleat" to mount the mirror. However
> I think this will cause the mirror to stick out from the wall maybe
> 1/4 of an inch. Can anyone think of a better way to mount that would
> be easy I could do by myself but would allow the mirror to be flush
> with the wall?
Things can hang flush with French cleats. The portion attached to the frame
just has to be recessed into the frame by at least the thickness of the
portion attached to the wall. You can also get thin metal hangers that
function just llike wood French cleats. My 10' long bed headboard is hung
on wooden ones and is flush to the wall; two night stands are hung on it the
same way and they are flush to the headboard.
Someone mentioned keyhole slots in the frame. Certainly doable but the
slots and the round head screws that fit into them have to be exactly
aligned. Additionally, the round head screws need to go into something in
the wall that will sustain the weight of mirror and frame.
You can also just screw the frame to the wall - same caveat about going into
something - and fill the countersunk screw holes with face grain plugs.
For that matter, the whole works could be attached with a mastic like that
used to attach unframed mirrors. Not easy to remove, though, usually sawed
off with a thin wire.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net
[email protected] writes:
>I had planed on buying a "french cleat" to mount the mirror. However I thin=
>k this will cause the mirror to stick out from the wall maybe 1/4 of an inc=
>h. Can anyone think of a better way to mount that would be easy I could do =
>by myself but would allow the mirror to be flush with the wall?
Use a router with a keyhole bit to make a keyhole on each stile.
scott