I want to finally build a sled for ripping waney-edged boards
on my tablesaw, and am thinking of using this style of hold down
(seems more easily adjustable than the toggle clamps I had planned to use):
Two versions from Rockler:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21387&filter=t%2Dtrack%20hold%20down%2021912
and
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=22010&filter=t%2Dtrack%20hold%20down
(second one has rubber tips, and is more like Woodpecker's).
And Woodpecker's version:
http://www.carbideprocessors.com/products/Woodpeckers-HDCG%252dPIV-%252d-Hold-Down-Clamps-(Each).html
Anyone have reviews/recommendations?
-- Andy Barss
"Andrew Barss" wrote:
> That was the appeal of the other type, mounting them to T-track.
-----------------------------------
T-track works for me.
A 12" x 72" x 3/4" plywood piece with 3, 12", T-tracks evenly spaced
on 24" centers and a 3/8" x 3/4" x 72" aluminium bar for a guide
runner and you are good to go.
Lew
.
Andrew Barss wrote:
> I want to finally build a sled for ripping waney-edged boards
> on my tablesaw, and am thinking of using this style of hold down
> (seems more easily adjustable than the toggle clamps I had planned to
> use):
>
> Two versions from Rockler:
>
> http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21387&filter=t%2Dtrack%20hold%20down%2021912
> and
> http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=22010&filter=t%2Dtrack%20hold%20down
> (second one has rubber tips, and is more like Woodpecker's).
>
> And Woodpecker's version:
> http://www.carbideprocessors.com/products/Woodpeckers-HDCG%252dPIV-%252d-Hold-Down-Clamps-(Each).html
> Anyone have reviews/recommendations?
Personally - since I enjoy woodworking - I make my own out of wood.
1. Piece of hardwood maybe 1" x 1 1/4" x 8-9"
(a) 1/4" slot in above an inch or so long
(b) 1" semicircle cut out above slot center
2. split 1" dowel
(a) glue a piece under one or both ends of #1
(b) cut a piece to fit in the semicircle cut out and drill 1/4" hole
in center.
3. Hook all together with a 1/4" carriage bolt, appropriately placed fender
washers and a knob. The longer the bolt the thicker the stock it will hold
down.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
"Leon" wrote:
>> A 12" x 72" x 3/4" plywood piece with 3, 12", T-tracks evenly
>> spaced
>> on 24" centers and a 3/8" x 3/4" x 72" aluminium bar for a guide
>> runner and you are good to go.
-----------------------------
> Lew does that work on 8' long boards also. I usde an 8' sled and
> use the rip fence as the guide.
-------------------------------------
Depends.
If you center the 72" sled on an 8 ft board you eng up with 12" of
board unsupported which is not swift.
Most of the hardwood boards I've needed for furniture type work have
typically been 54" or less.
Never tried an 8' board.
Lew
"Leon" wrote:
> So your technique is to cut the stock close to needed lengths before
> straightening.. I have often considered doing it that way, if I end
> up with 12' long boards I will often experiment with Cut List Plus
> and tell it that I have 2, 6 footers or a 4 footer and an 8 footer
> to see how that works out. Those shorter pieces are considerably
> easier to handle but some times there will be more waste.
--------------------------------------
Last year, took a wood working course at Cerritos College here in
SoCal.
(Great program BTW).
I was taught to cross cut rough stock to length + waste allowances as
the first step in stock preparation.
This was after you first cut off end cracks, checks, etc.
It was the only cut you were allowed to make using a radial arm saw.
After cutting to length it was face jointing time to get flat enough
to run thru the planer. (At least 35% of total area)
(Oh the joys of having access to a 12" jointer).
Using a sled instead of a jointer does a good job as long as you don't
have to salvage twisted stock.
Lew
On 6/12/2011 3:43 PM, Jim Weisgram wrote:
>
> I have used both types, and each has it's place. If the geometry of
> the jig allows toggle clamps, they are usually much faster to work
> with. Less so if have have to often adjust for material thickness.
>
> But I think a jig for waney edge boards may benefit from the
> adjustibility of the t-track hold-down. The rubber tips may be a good
> feature, if they won't slip off.
>
> By the way, I snap a chalkline and use my bandsaw for my first rip of
> a waney-edged board.
>
>>> Jim
HAND SAW! If I did that I would end up with a wavier line. ;~) The
Festool track saw works great for this.
On 6/13/2011 4:32 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "Leon" wrote:
>
>>> A 12" x 72" x 3/4" plywood piece with 3, 12", T-tracks evenly
>>> spaced
>>> on 24" centers and a 3/8" x 3/4" x 72" aluminium bar for a guide
>>> runner and you are good to go.
> -----------------------------
>
>> Lew does that work on 8' long boards also. I usde an 8' sled and
>> use the rip fence as the guide.
> -------------------------------------
> Depends.
>
> If you center the 72" sled on an 8 ft board you eng up with 12" of
> board unsupported which is not swift.
>
> Most of the hardwood boards I've needed for furniture type work have
> typically been 54" or less.
>
> Never tried an 8' board.
>
> Lew
>
>
So your technique is to cut the stock close to needed lengths before
straightening.. I have often considered doing it that way, if I end up
with 12' long boards I will often experiment with Cut List Plus and tell
it that I have 2, 6 footers or a 4 footer and an 8 footer to see how
that works out. Those shorter pieces are considerably easier to handle
but some times there will be more waste.
On Jun 12, 1:45=A0pm, Andrew Barss <[email protected]> wrote:
> I want to finally build a sled for ripping waney-edged boards
> on my tablesaw, and am thinking of using this style of hold down
> (seems more easily adjustable than the toggle clamps I had planned to use=
):
>
> Two versions from Rockler:
>
> http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=3D21387&filter=3Dt%2Dtrack%20hold=
...
> andhttp://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=3D22010&filter=3Dt%2Dtrack%20h=
old...
> (second one has rubber tips, and is more like Woodpecker's).
>
> And Woodpecker's version:http://www.carbideprocessors.com/products/Woodpe=
ckers-HDCG%252dPIV-%2...
> Anyone have reviews/recommendations?
>
> -- Andy Barss
Roll your own from 6" lengths of scrap 1 x 2. Drill a 1/2"
hole in the middle of each. Install over carriage bolts, with
wing nuts to tighten. One end of the toggle/cleat/whatever
you call it sits over your workpiece. The other end sits on top
of a block of scrap, same thickness (or close to same thickness)
as your workpiece.
Place a spring over the bolt to lift the toggle if you're doing
mass production.
On 6/12/2011 9:30 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "Andrew Barss" wrote:
>
>> That was the appeal of the other type, mounting them to T-track.
> -----------------------------------
> T-track works for me.
>
> A 12" x 72" x 3/4" plywood piece with 3, 12", T-tracks evenly spaced
> on 24" centers and a 3/8" x 3/4" x 72" aluminium bar for a guide
> runner and you are good to go.
>
> Lew
> .
>
>
>
>
Lew does that work on 8' long boards also. I usde an 8' sled and use
the rip fence as the guide.
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>
> On 6/12/11 12:45 PM, Andrew Barss wrote:
> > I want to finally build a sled for ripping waney-edged boards
> > on my tablesaw, and am thinking of using this style of hold down
> > (seems more easily adjustable than the toggle clamps I had planned to use):
> >
> > Two versions from Rockler:
> >
> > http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21387&filter=t%2Dtrack%20hold%20down%2021912
> > and
> > http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=22010&filter=t%2Dtrack%20hold%20down
> > (second one has rubber tips, and is more like Woodpecker's).
> >
> > And Woodpecker's version:
> > http://www.carbideprocessors.com/products/Woodpeckers-HDCG%252dPIV-%252d-Hold-Down-Clamps-(Each).html
> > Anyone have reviews/recommendations?
> >
> >
> > -- Andy Barss
>
> When you say "toggle" are you talking about these?
> http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21272
> http://www.rockler.com/c/specialty-woodworking-clamps.cfm
>
> I prefer these because they seem to hold better and with less pressure.
> You will see the newer ones have a knob instead of nut for adjustability
> and I find it nearly as fast as the metal hold downs.
>
> If you decide on the metal hold downs, go with the Rocklers that have
> the thicker rubber pads. Bare metal with mar and dent many woods and the
> thinner rubber with wear off.
Personally these have worked fine for me
<http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=toggle+clamp>.
On Jun 12, 2:07=A0pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> When you say "toggle" are you talking about these?http://www.rockler.com/=
product.cfm?page=3D21272http://www.rockler.com/c/specialty-woodworking-clam=
ps.cfm
>
> I prefer these because they seem to hold better and with less pressure.
> You will see the newer ones have a knob instead of nut for adjustability
> and I find it nearly as fast as the metal hold downs.
I've replaced the hex nuts on mine with wing nuts for the
same reason. Not as slick looking as the knobs, but
does the trick.
On 6/13/2011 7:51 PM, Jim Weisgram wrote:
> On Sun, 12 Jun 2011 16:38:23 -0500, Leon<lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
> wrote:
>
>> On 6/12/2011 3:43 PM, Jim Weisgram wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> I have used both types, and each has it's place. If the geometry of
>>> the jig allows toggle clamps, they are usually much faster to work
>>> with. Less so if have have to often adjust for material thickness.
>>>
>>> But I think a jig for waney edge boards may benefit from the
>>> adjustibility of the t-track hold-down. The rubber tips may be a good
>>> feature, if they won't slip off.
>>>
>>> By the way, I snap a chalkline and use my bandsaw for my first rip of
>>> a waney-edged board.
>>>
>>>>> Jim
>>
>>
>> HAND SAW! If I did that I would end up with a wavier line. ;~) The
>> Festool track saw works great for this.
>
> BBBandsaw, not HHHandsaw.
OH! That's different. As Roseanna Anna Danna use'ta say.
I like the bandsaw because if I have a waney
> edge it is likely because it is a valuable board. And the bandsaw has
> a very thin kerf. But I have to say if I had a track saw I might use
> it in this application.
I find that I could go straight from the track saw to glue up.
On 6/12/2011 12:45 PM, Andrew Barss wrote:
> I want to finally build a sled for ripping waney-edged boards
> on my tablesaw, and am thinking of using this style of hold down
> (seems more easily adjustable than the toggle clamps I had planned to use):
>
> Two versions from Rockler:
>
> http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21387&filter=t%2Dtrack%20hold%20down%2021912
> and
> http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=22010&filter=t%2Dtrack%20hold%20down
> (second one has rubber tips, and is more like Woodpecker's).
>
> And Woodpecker's version:
> http://www.carbideprocessors.com/products/Woodpeckers-HDCG%252dPIV-%252d-Hold-Down-Clamps-(Each).html
> Anyone have reviews/recommendations?
>
>
> -- Andy Barss
Been there, done it. I used the toggle lever clamps and they do need
adjustments. I went cheap and screwed them to small square blocks and
screwed those blocks down to the sled where needed. IIRC I only used a
pair.
The clamps you are thinking about using Look to probably be a better
solution however because none of the clamps actually have a far reach
they will need to be repositioned closer/farther from the sled's cutting
edge. Wider boards need the clamps farther from the cutting edge and
narrower need to be closer.
I would suggest at least 2 rows of t-tracks to allow you more
flexibility. I used the square blocks and moved them around on the sled
because of that situation
On 6/12/11 12:45 PM, Andrew Barss wrote:
> I want to finally build a sled for ripping waney-edged boards
> on my tablesaw, and am thinking of using this style of hold down
> (seems more easily adjustable than the toggle clamps I had planned to use):
>
> Two versions from Rockler:
>
> http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21387&filter=t%2Dtrack%20hold%20down%2021912
> and
> http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=22010&filter=t%2Dtrack%20hold%20down
> (second one has rubber tips, and is more like Woodpecker's).
>
> And Woodpecker's version:
> http://www.carbideprocessors.com/products/Woodpeckers-HDCG%252dPIV-%252d-Hold-Down-Clamps-(Each).html
> Anyone have reviews/recommendations?
>
>
> -- Andy Barss
When you say "toggle" are you talking about these?
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21272
http://www.rockler.com/c/specialty-woodworking-clamps.cfm
I prefer these because they seem to hold better and with less pressure.
You will see the newer ones have a knob instead of nut for adjustability
and I find it nearly as fast as the metal hold downs.
If you decide on the metal hold downs, go with the Rocklers that have
the thicker rubber pads. Bare metal with mar and dent many woods and the
thinner rubber with wear off.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
In article <[email protected]>, Andrew Barss <[email protected]> wrote:
>I want to finally build a sled for ripping waney-edged boards
>on my tablesaw, and am thinking of using this style of hold down
>(seems more easily adjustable than the toggle clamps I had planned to use):
>
>Two versions from Rockler:
>
>http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21387&filter=t%2Dtrack%20hold%20down%20
>21912
Those things are a pain in the neck. I got a pair about 8-10 years ago. I
don't use them any more. I find the toggle clamps much easier.
>and
>http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=22010&filter=t%2Dtrack%20hold%20down
>(second one has rubber tips, and is more like Woodpecker's).
>
>And Woodpecker's version:
>http://www.carbideprocessors.com/products/Woodpeckers-HDCG%252dPIV-%252d-Hold-D
>own-Clamps-(Each).html
>Anyone have reviews/recommendations?
I recommend toggle clamps. :-)
"Andrew Barss" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I want to finally build a sled for ripping waney-edged boards
> on my tablesaw, and am thinking of using this style of hold down
> (seems more easily adjustable than the toggle clamps I had planned to use):
>
> Two versions from Rockler:
>
>
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21387&filter=t%2Dtrack%20hold%20down%2021912
> and
> http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=22010&filter=t%2Dtrack%20hold%20down
> (second one has rubber tips, and is more like Woodpecker's).
>
> And Woodpecker's version:
>
http://www.carbideprocessors.com/products/Woodpeckers-HDCG%252dPIV-%252d-Hold-Down-Clamps-(Each).html
> Anyone have reviews/recommendations?
>
>
> -- Andy Barss
You're right about the toggle clamps. I made one years ago and
it was a PITA moving the clamps around to accommodate varying
width boards. Now I just tack a strip of hardboard/masonite to the
board with carpet tacks. Carpet tacks have yet to break and leave
a piece of steel in the board like brads can. And the hole is wedge
shaped and usually heals nicely with a drop of water.
Art
On 6/12/11 7:17 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
> On Jun 12, 2:07 pm, -MIKE-<[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> When you say "toggle" are you talking about these?http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21272http://www.rockler.com/c/specialty-woodworking-clamps.cfm
>>
>> I prefer these because they seem to hold better and with less pressure.
>> You will see the newer ones have a knob instead of nut for adjustability
>> and I find it nearly as fast as the metal hold downs.
>
> I've replaced the hex nuts on mine with wing nuts for the
> same reason. Not as slick looking as the knobs, but
> does the trick.
Yeah, I used knobs simply because I had a bunch of them.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Doug Miller <[email protected]> wrote:
:>Anyone have reviews/recommendations?
: I recommend toggle clamps. :-)
Do you have them mounted so they can adjust for different width boards?
That was the appeal of the other type, mounting them to T-track.
-- Andy Barss
On 6/12/11 8:03 PM, Andrew Barss wrote:
> Doug Miller<[email protected]> wrote:
> :>Anyone have reviews/recommendations?
>
> : I recommend toggle clamps. :-)
>
> Do you have them mounted so they can adjust for different width boards?
> That was the appeal of the other type, mounting them to T-track.
>
> -- Andy Barss
I have mine on a scrap piece of melamine. I use two screws per clamp and
move it around wherever I want. This takes, possibly, twice as long as
sliding along the T-track, which the added advantage of being able to
use any straight scrap I have sitting around the shop.
Sometimes we try to make rocket science out of this stuff. I think it
was Larry who said he uses some scrap and drywall screws... accomplishes
the same thing, for virtually free. As soon as some woodworking catalog
comes out with a new jig, it's like we forget how we ever got along
without it.
I know a lot of woodworkers who used pocket holes for years before Kreg
was around. One in particular, bought a couple Kreg jigs and found they
slowed him down, so he sold them to some newbie who couldn't live
without them. He does, however, use the step drill bits.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On Sun, 12 Jun 2011 20:28:48 -0500, -MIKE- wrote:
> I have mine on a scrap piece of melamine. I use two screws per clamp and
> move it around wherever I want. This takes, possibly, twice as long as
> sliding along the T-track, which the added advantage of being able to
> use any straight scrap I have sitting around the shop.
It's also possible to mount toggle clamps on t-bolts so they can slide in
t-tracks.
--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
On 6/13/11 11:29 AM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
> On Sun, 12 Jun 2011 20:28:48 -0500, -MIKE- wrote:
>
>> I have mine on a scrap piece of melamine. I use two screws per clamp and
>> move it around wherever I want. This takes, possibly, twice as long as
>> sliding along the T-track, which the added advantage of being able to
>> use any straight scrap I have sitting around the shop.
>
> It's also possible to mount toggle clamps on t-bolts so they can slide in
> t-tracks.
>
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=1573
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 6/13/11 7:03 AM, Leon wrote:
>>> That was the appeal of the other type, mounting them to T-track.
>> -----------------------------------
>> T-track works for me.
>>
>> A 12" x 72" x 3/4" plywood piece with 3, 12", T-tracks evenly spaced
>> on 24" centers and a 3/8" x 3/4" x 72" aluminium bar for a guide
>> runner and you are good to go.
>>
>> Lew
>>
>>
>
> Lew does that work on 8' long boards also. I usde an 8' sled and use the
> rip fence as the guide.
I was thinking about this and realized that I have straighten the edge
of shorter crooked boards by simply holding it against another
straight-edged board which is against the fence, and pushing both
forward, together. I wouldn't do that with a longer board.
But that made me wonder if you don't really need clamps on this type of
sled. I bet a router mat (a good one, not the stuff they use as shelf
liners) would provide plenty of stability.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10696
ps: I don't use Rockler for examples because I am endorsing them in any
way.
I use them because they have short urls. :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On Sun, 12 Jun 2011 16:38:23 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
>On 6/12/2011 3:43 PM, Jim Weisgram wrote:
>
>>
>> I have used both types, and each has it's place. If the geometry of
>> the jig allows toggle clamps, they are usually much faster to work
>> with. Less so if have have to often adjust for material thickness.
>>
>> But I think a jig for waney edge boards may benefit from the
>> adjustibility of the t-track hold-down. The rubber tips may be a good
>> feature, if they won't slip off.
>>
>> By the way, I snap a chalkline and use my bandsaw for my first rip of
>> a waney-edged board.
>>
>>>> Jim
>
>
>HAND SAW! If I did that I would end up with a wavier line. ;~) The
>Festool track saw works great for this.
BBBandsaw, not HHHandsaw. I like the bandsaw because if I have a waney
edge it is likely because it is a valuable board. And the bandsaw has
a very thin kerf. But I have to say if I had a track saw I might use
it in this application.
On Sun, 12 Jun 2011 17:45:46 +0000 (UTC), Andrew Barss
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I want to finally build a sled for ripping waney-edged boards
>on my tablesaw, and am thinking of using this style of hold down
>(seems more easily adjustable than the toggle clamps I had planned to use):
>
>Two versions from Rockler:
>
>http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21387&filter=t%2Dtrack%20hold%20down%2021912
>and
>http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=22010&filter=t%2Dtrack%20hold%20down
>(second one has rubber tips, and is more like Woodpecker's).
>
>And Woodpecker's version:
>http://www.carbideprocessors.com/products/Woodpeckers-HDCG%252dPIV-%252d-Hold-Down-Clamps-(Each).html
>Anyone have reviews/recommendations?
>
>
>-- Andy Barss
I have used both types, and each has it's place. If the geometry of
the jig allows toggle clamps, they are usually much faster to work
with. Less so if have have to often adjust for material thickness.
But I think a jig for waney edge boards may benefit from the
adjustibility of the t-track hold-down. The rubber tips may be a good
feature, if they won't slip off.
By the way, I snap a chalkline and use my bandsaw for my first rip of
a waney-edged board.
>> Jim
On 6/13/2011 9:28 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "Leon" wrote:
>
>> So your technique is to cut the stock close to needed lengths before
>> straightening.. I have often considered doing it that way, if I end
>> up with 12' long boards I will often experiment with Cut List Plus
>> and tell it that I have 2, 6 footers or a 4 footer and an 8 footer
>> to see how that works out. Those shorter pieces are considerably
>> easier to handle but some times there will be more waste.
> --------------------------------------
Snip
>
> Using a sled instead of a jointer does a good job as long as you don't
> have to salvage twisted stock.
Agreed, we don't have a great supply of rough cut lumber available to us
in the Houston area unless you want to take a couple hour drive. Closer
places tend to be more expensive and the savings of rough cut over s2s
is not significant most of the time. So, I typically will purchase s2s
that is normally pretty flat. In some instances s4s can be more
economical when time is a factor and you use most of the board. s2s
typically has more wast material left over.