box joint jigs. . .

>
> I have made a couple of box joint jigs over the years. My first was more
> traditional, but fit only my old table saw. I made another which attaches
> to an universal carrier which I use for different operations on my table
saw
> and router table. This requires making a new fence for different size box
> joints, but I have found this to be preferable and takes very little time
or
> effort.
>
I built a similar jig for my router table. A few questions...
1) On the first piece you obviously put it next to the pin for the first
cut. How do you do the second piece? On my router jig I have problems with
movement and tearout on the second piece.
2) Any reason you didn't make it a bit wider and catch the second miter slot
as well?

Hi Ken,

do you remember the guy selling these jigs on eb**? He actually came to the
wreck to defend himself for a post or two but got beat up pretty badly IIRC.

--
Greg


"Ken Vaughn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "SwampBug" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> Has anyone seen plans for, or have built one, other than the Lynn jig and
> the one Norm built. . .? For the table saw that is, I ain't set up for the
> router yet. I am looking for more flexibility than Norm's but not so
> complex(use, not construction) as the Lynn jig.
>
> I have made a couple of box joint jigs over the years. My first was more
> traditional, but fit only my old table saw. I made another which attaches
> to an universal carrier which I use for different operations on my table
> saw and router table. This requires making a new fence for different size
> box joints, but I have found this to be preferable and takes very little
> time or effort.
>
> http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/box_joint_jig.jpg
> http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/box_joint_carrier.jpg
>
> Here are some box joints made with the fence shown above.
>
> http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/cabinet_drawers.jpg
>
> --
> Ken Vaughn
> Visit My Workshop: http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/
>
>

Here ya go Ken. For $200 you could make all sorts of stuff! The guy's name
was George IIRC and he still hasn't changed his website
http://www.woodjig.com/pic1.htm.

The thread was:

http://groups.google.com.au/groups?hl=en&lr=&threadm=kvOp8.61723%24Q7.48794768%40e3500-atl1.usenetserver.com&rnum=2&prev=/groups%3Fq%3Dbox%2Bjoint%2Bjig%2Bebay%2B%26hl%3Den

Caution, viewing this thread or website may make the reader nauseous..
--

Greg


"Ken Vaughn" wrote in message ...
> G'day Mate,
>
> I think I missed that thread. Being retired, I travel a lot and it may
> have occurred during one of my trips. Box joint jigs have been around
> forever, the woodworking books and magazines were full of them when I took
> up this hobby, and that's been, well a few years.
>
> Ken
>

I can't seem to find much on it. Vol 62 is only available in an annual =
volume and is sold out. I googled for it specifically but found nothing. =
thanks.

--=20
SwampBug
- - - - - - - - - - - -


"RKG" <[email protected]> wrote in message =
news:[email protected]...
SwampBug wrote:
> Has anyone seen plans for, or have built one, other than the Lynn jig =
and the one Norm built. . .? For the table saw that is, I ain't set up =
for the router yet. I am looking for more flexibility than Norm's but =
not so complex(use, not construction) as the Lynn jig.
>=20
Take a look around for ShopNotes Issue 62. The one in there looks not =
bad.

Rick

actually I did a google search first. . .not everyone drops neatly into =
your pre-conceived mold JT! LOL!
I found several adjustable ones similar to the Lynn jig which is prolly =
the most versatile. Some Lynn spin offs, some better some just =
different. I inquired here primarily because I have seen some very =
innovative approaches applied by those in this group. Thanks for your =
reply.

--=20
SwampBug
- - - - - - - - - - - -


"J T" <[email protected]> wrote in message =
news:[email protected]...
Sat, Nov 6, 2004, 5:59am (EST-1) [email protected] (SwampBug) asks:
Has anyone seen plans for, or have built one, other than the Lynn jig
and the one Norm built. . .? <snip>

Yep.

Now I suppose you want to know where?=20

I've seen some on the web. Don't recall if I posted any, but good
chance. Pobably easy enough to find, with google. Library would be a
good place to look too.

You can make a basic one pretty easily. Course, if you wanted
different sized joints, you'd have to make another. I've seen adjustable
ones, that are pretty uncomplicated - just don't recall where.

At least you didn't asky someone to e-mail plans. I guess you
didn't think of it. LOL =20



JOAT
Viet Nam, divorce, cancer. Been there, done that. Now, where the Hell
are my T-shirts?

that is an interesting change to Norm's jig. I was thinking of maybe =
arranging to just switch the slot and index peg. . .sorta make an insert =
with the slot and properly spaced peg, one for each most common sizes. I =
can't decide if I want to use a dado blade or as Norm would say, just =
"nibble it away" with just a single blade.

--=20
SwampBug
- - - - - - - - - - - -


"Ken Vaughn" <[email protected]> wrote in message =
news:[email protected]...

"SwampBug" <[email protected]> wrote in message=20
news:[email protected]...
Has anyone seen plans for, or have built one, other than the Lynn jig =
and=20
the one Norm built. . .? For the table saw that is, I ain't set up for =
the=20
router yet. I am looking for more flexibility than Norm's but not so=20
complex(use, not construction) as the Lynn jig.

I have made a couple of box joint jigs over the years. My first was =
more=20
traditional, but fit only my old table saw. I made another which =
attaches=20
to an universal carrier which I use for different operations on my table =
saw=20
and router table. This requires making a new fence for different size =
box=20
joints, but I have found this to be preferable and takes very little =
time or=20
effort.

http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/box_joint_jig.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/box_joint_carrier.jpg

Here are some box joints made with the fence shown above.

http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/cabinet_drawers.jpg

--=20
Ken Vaughn
Visit My Workshop: http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/

LOL! Thanks, if I am ever in Canada, I'll check it out.

--=20
SwampBug
- - - - - - - - - - - -


"RKG" <[email protected]> wrote in message =
news:[email protected]...
SwampBug wrote:
> I can't seem to find much on it. Vol 62 is only available in an annual =
volume and is sold out. I googled for it specifically but found nothing. =
thanks.
>=20


It's Vol. 11 Issue 62 I picked it up at Busy Bee Tools in London=20
Ont. They seemed to have shelves of old ShopNotes mags.

Rick

Sat, Nov 6, 2004, 5:59am (EST-1) [email protected] (SwampBug) asks:
Has anyone seen plans for, or have built one, other than the Lynn jig
and the one Norm built. . .? <snip>

Yep.

Now I suppose you want to know where?

I've seen some on the web. Don't recall if I posted any, but good
chance. Pobably easy enough to find, with google. Library would be a
good place to look too.

You can make a basic one pretty easily. Course, if you wanted
different sized joints, you'd have to make another. I've seen adjustable
ones, that are pretty uncomplicated - just don't recall where.

At least you didn't asky someone to e-mail plans. I guess you
didn't think of it. LOL



JOAT
Viet Nam, divorce, cancer. Been there, done that. Now, where the Hell
are my T-shirts?

SwampBug wrote:
> I can't seem to find much on it. Vol 62 is only available in an annual volume and is sold out. I googled for it specifically but found nothing. thanks.
>


It's Vol. 11 Issue 62 I picked it up at Busy Bee Tools in London
Ont. They seemed to have shelves of old ShopNotes mags.

Rick

I settled on a Porter Cable Omni Jog many years ago. They have two non
adjustable box joint templates. I really like the Omnijig. I bought the
bigger one and many of their templates. The adjustable dovetail worked
great. I use the small non adjustable to make drawer boxes. I think they are
well made, but they are pricey.
max

> actually I did a google search first. . .not everyone drops neatly into your
> pre-conceived mold JT! LOL!
> I found several adjustable ones similar to the Lynn jig which is prolly the
> most versatile. Some Lynn spin offs, some better some just different. I
> inquired here primarily because I have seen some very innovative approaches
> applied by those in this group. Thanks for your reply.

"Greg Millen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:1099827791.mPNNjLpv2iEcyT+81GpS9A@teranews...
> Hi Ken,
>
> do you remember the guy selling these jigs on eb**? He actually came to
> the wreck to defend himself for a post or two but got beat up pretty badly
> IIRC.
>
> --
> Greg

G'day Mate,

I think I missed that thread. Being retired, I travel a lot and it may have
occurred during one of my trips. Box joint jigs have been around forever,
the woodworking books and magazines were full of them when I took up this
hobby, and that's been, well a few years.

Ken

SwampBug wrote:
> Has anyone seen plans for, or have built one, other than the Lynn jig and the one Norm built. . .? For the table saw that is, I ain't set up for the router yet. I am looking for more flexibility than Norm's but not so complex(use, not construction) as the Lynn jig.
>
Take a look around for ShopNotes Issue 62. The one in there looks not bad.

Rick

"toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:%p7jd.2732$9%[email protected]...
>
> I built a similar jig for my router table. A few questions...
> 1) On the first piece you obviously put it next to the pin for the first
> cut. How do you do the second piece? On my router jig I have problems
> with
> movement and tearout on the second piece.

The jig for box joints uses a square peg set over by the same width as the
dado cut. To put it another way, on the 1/4" jig shown there is a 1/4" wide
hardwood spacer peg which is located 1/4" over (away) from the slot being
cut. The first piece is located as you indicate, with the edge against the
peg, and this cuts a slot 1/4" from the edge of the piece. The second piece
is put in front of the first and lined up with the edge of the dado set so
that it is offset from the first piece by the width of one finger and the
first cut made on the front piece. After this cut, both pieces are put over
the wooden spacer peg, and subsequent cuts continue until you reach the
other edge.

I actually use a shim with my dado set to make the dado cut oversize by .002
or .003 and compensate by moving the fence over a smidge. The holes in the
fence are drilled over size and allow a little movement before tightning
down the bolts. This makes the fingers a little less than the slots, but
makes assembly easier when using a glue with high tack, such as yellow glue
(Titebond). This is difficult to explain, but after you have made the first
jig it makes sense.

I have never had good results cutting box joints (also called comb joints,
or finger joints) on the router. One edge of the bit is cutting into the
wood, but the other side is cutting out away from the face of the wood and
this causes tearout, especially with ply such as the example shown. You can
use a piece of scrap in front of the piece(s) being cut to limit this, but I
like the table saw setup where the cut is made into the face(s) of the two
pieces and the back of the cut (exit) is supported by the fence.

> 2) Any reason you didn't make it a bit wider and catch the second miter
> slot
> as well?

The carrier shown is used on both by table saw and my router table for
several different purposes. Most of the work in making a jig of this sort
is getting the face square to the runner, and the fence perpendicular to the
table. Having done so, you can replace the fence with another piece of
Baltic Birch and quickly make another jig. My router table has only one
slot, therefore I use only one runner. It is a steel runner with spring
loaded balls to keep positive alignment with the slot in the table saw and
router table which have marginally different widths. If you look down at
the carrier you will notice different clearance slots in the base located
properly for both my table saw and my router table.

--
Ken Vaughn
Visit My Workshop: http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/

"SwampBug" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Has anyone seen plans for, or have built one, other than the Lynn jig and
the one Norm built. . .? For the table saw that is, I ain't set up for the
router yet. I am looking for more flexibility than Norm's but not so
complex(use, not construction) as the Lynn jig.

I have made a couple of box joint jigs over the years. My first was more
traditional, but fit only my old table saw. I made another which attaches
to an universal carrier which I use for different operations on my table saw
and router table. This requires making a new fence for different size box
joints, but I have found this to be preferable and takes very little time or
effort.

http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/box_joint_jig.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/box_joint_carrier.jpg

Here are some box joints made with the fence shown above.

http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/cabinet_drawers.jpg

--
Ken Vaughn
Visit My Workshop: http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/