New question...
I'm looking to add some trim to my bookcase for decorative purposes to
pretty things up. My question is how to attach the trim the carcass - just
glue or glue and finish nails?
If finish nails, any advice on using them without a power/air nailer? I
think I've heard to drill pilot holes (using an actual nail as the bit).
Pilot holes through the trim and into the carcass?
Thanks
"Corey" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<Wk4jd.753$Fu1.554@trnddc03>...
> New question...
>
> I'm looking to add some trim to my bookcase for decorative purposes to
> pretty things up. My question is how to attach the trim the carcass - just
> glue or glue and finish nails?
>
> If finish nails, any advice on using them without a power/air nailer? I
> think I've heard to drill pilot holes (using an actual nail as the bit).
> Pilot holes through the trim and into the carcass?
>
> Thanks
Nail the trim, glue miters. Use brad nails and a drill bit the same
size as the brads. If the book case is made from solid wood, gluing
the trim won't work.Solid wood expands and contracts with the seasons.
If the case is made from man made panels ,plywood or mdf then you can
glue the trim.
mike
On Wed, 10 Nov 2004 00:24:37 GMT, "Corey" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I was interpretting that the G spots for both the front and side pieces
>would need to be glued to the carcass. I think I read in your note that I
>more so need to glue the side mouldings' miters to the front moulding
>miter - so the miters stay together
End grain dosen't glue well. Glue the side moldings to the front 1-2"
of SIDE carcase, near the miter.
>(and glue along the entire front piece).
Right.
>I'm concerned that I might have some little gaps along the
>side run if the side piece isn't glued into contact with the carcass the
>entire length (the carcass sides are probably not absolutely flat - the
>glued up sides were not run through a planer).
Try sanding or planing the area where the molding sits flat.
Barry
On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 01:53:17 GMT, "Corey" <[email protected]> wrote:
>The bookcase is made of red oak. So any other votes or change of votes on
>using nails as well as glue?
Are the sides solid red oak, or red oak plywood?
If the sides are solid, I would not glue the entire length of molding
in place. I would apply glue at the front, near the miter, with a
brad or two towards the rear. The glue will hold the molding tightly
near the miter, so that it dosen't open, while the brads will allow a
tiny bit of movement as the sides ever so slightly change width
through the seasons.
If the sides are red oak plywood, I'd glue the whole molding in place.
Using tape, hot glue, or brads to hold it in place is subject to
religious debate here. You can make the choice. <G>
Barry
On Tue, 09 Nov 2004 01:52:47 GMT, "Corey" <[email protected]> wrote:
>To make sure I understand, I'm going to have a front and two side pieces of
>trim. Are you saying to glue all three pieces near the miters, and nail a
>brad towards the rear of the side pieces and no brads on the front piece?
>I'll see if I can convey my understanding with a little schematic (B =
>brads, G = glue).
>
>B B
> \ \
> \ \
> \ \
> \G_______________________G
>
Almost.
Chances are, the front piece (G-G) has grain running in the same
direction as the molding. If so that part can be glued all the way
along.
The side moldings (B-G) need to be glued at the mitered intersections
and nailed towards the back. This firmly holds the miter together,
while allowing the side to expand and contract. If the area near the
miter was not glued, the movement of the side could pull the miter
open, making the joint ugly.
Barry
"Ba r r y" <[email protected]> wrote in message > >
> >B B
> > \ \
> > \ \
> > \ \
> > \G_______________________G
> >
>
>
> The side moldings (B-G) need to be glued at the mitered intersections
> and nailed towards the back. This firmly holds the miter together,
> while allowing the side to expand and contract. If the area near the
> miter was not glued, the movement of the side could pull the miter
> open, making the joint ugly.
>
> Barry
I was interpretting that the G spots for both the front and side pieces
would need to be glued to the carcass. I think I read in your note that I
more so need to glue the side mouldings' miters to the front moulding
miter - so the miters stay together (and glue along the entire front piece).
If that is correct, should there be any glue between the sides and the
actual carcass? I'm concerned that I might have some little gaps along the
side run if the side piece isn't glued into contact with the carcass the
entire length (the carcass sides are probably not absolutely flat - the
glued up sides were not run through a planer).
One good method for gluing is to use regular wood glue (your choice) and to
leave some spots unglued for a drop of hot melt. The hot melt holds pretty
tight until the regular wood glue sets up and you have to rely a lot less on
tape and clamps.
max
> On Sat, 06 Nov 2004 13:29:26 GMT, "Corey" <[email protected]>
> scribbled:
>
>> New question...
>>
>> I'm looking to add some trim to my bookcase for decorative purposes to
>> pretty things up. My question is how to attach the trim the carcass - just
>> glue or glue and finish nails?
>
> I would use only glue, with masking tape to hold/clamp the trim in
> place until the glue dries. Nail holes are a PITA to fill & hide.
>
> Luigi
> Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address
> www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/antifaq.html
> www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/humour.html
"Ba r r y" <[email protected]> wrote in message >
> Are the sides solid red oak, or red oak plywood?
Then entire piece is all solid red oak.
> If the sides are solid, I would not glue the entire length of molding
> in place. I would apply glue at the front, near the miter, with a
> brad or two towards the rear. The glue will hold the molding tightly
> near the miter, so that it dosen't open, while the brads will allow a
> tiny bit of movement as the sides ever so slightly change width
> through the seasons.
To make sure I understand, I'm going to have a front and two side pieces of
trim. Are you saying to glue all three pieces near the miters, and nail a
brad towards the rear of the side pieces and no brads on the front piece?
I'll see if I can convey my understanding with a little schematic (B =
brads, G = glue).
B B
\ \
\ \
\ \
\G_______________________G
Thanks
Luigi Zanasi <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On Sat, 06 Nov 2004 13:29:26 GMT, "Corey" <[email protected]>
> scribbled:
>
>>New question...
>>
>>I'm looking to add some trim to my bookcase for decorative purposes to
>>pretty things up. My question is how to attach the trim the carcass -
>>just glue or glue and finish nails?
>
> I would use only glue, with masking tape to hold/clamp the trim in
> place until the glue dries. Nail holes are a PITA to fill & hide.
>
And Titebond makes a moulding glue (maybe $4 for 8 oz bottle) for just this
purpose.
Why a special glue? It doesn't run. It dries clear and rubbery, so if you
miss the squeeze out, you can trim it off within 24 hrs. It sticks
quickly, but allows adjustment. And it cleans up with water.
I like the hot melt idea, if you have one available.
Patriarch
"Corey" <[email protected]> wrote in news:jk9jd.436$sD1.82@trnddc02:
>
> "patriarch [email protected]>" <<patriarch> wrote in
> message news:[email protected]...
>> Luigi Zanasi <[email protected]> wrote in
>> news:[email protected]:
>>
>> I like the hot melt idea, if you have one available.
>
>
> Are you referring to a regular ol' hot glue gun that is for general
> around the house gluing (broken toys)? Or something more specific to
> woodworking?
>
The one you've got will do just fine. A couple of dabs will hold it until
the wood glue cures. You only want just a little bit.
If you have some of the blue painter's masking tape, that will help as
well.
Patriarch
igor <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On Sat, 06 Nov 2004 18:44:14 GMT, patriarch
> <<patriarch>[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>And Titebond makes a moulding glue (maybe $4 for 8 oz bottle) for just
>>this purpose.
>>
>>Why a special glue? It doesn't run. It dries clear and rubbery, so
>>if you miss the squeeze out, you can trim it off within 24 hrs. It
>>sticks quickly, but allows adjustment. And it cleans up with water.
>>
> Sounds like latex caulk.
>
And works much the same way, except it dries clear, and cleans easily.
For paint grade trim, latex caulk is a hacker's best friend! ;-)
Patriarch
Ba r r y <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On 7 Nov 2004 07:28:52 -0800, [email protected] (mike) wrote:
>
>
>>Nail the trim, glue miters. Use brad nails and a drill bit the same
>>size as the brads. If the book case is made from solid wood, gluing
>>the trim won't work.Solid wood expands and contracts with the seasons.
>
> Mounting the trim to sliding dovetail tracks that are screwed to the
> carcase is a nice way to attach moldings to solid pieces. The
> moldings are glued at the front, where the miters are, but are free to
> slide as the side moves.
>
> It's actually pretty easy to do as well, with a dovetail bit and
> router table.
>
> Barry
>
Remember that Corey is taking his first adult ed class here, Barry. The
tools and instruction seem pretty limited.
Patriarch
Ba r r y <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 16:45:03 GMT, patriarch
> <<patriarch>[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Remember that Corey is taking his first adult ed class here, Barry. The
>>tools and instruction seem pretty limited.
>
> I missed that! You're right, it wouldn't be a good beginner
> technique.
>
> Once they get to a table mounted router, I'll recommend it again. <G>
>
> Barry
>
It's a method to which I aspire, someday. When I get around to it. If I
get that good. Maybe. <g>
Patriarch
Ba r r y <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 22:21:19 GMT, patriarch
> <<patriarch>[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>It's a method to which I aspire, someday. When I get around to it.
>>If I get that good. Maybe. <g>
>
> I'll bet you could do it now, if you have even a really basic router
> table and some scrap to mess around with.
>
> The "track" gets made as a stock molding, with one pass on each side
> with a dovetail bit to shape it. Routing the slot in the molding is
> only slightly more difficult. A scrap section of molding is used to
> align the tracks.
>
> Barry
>
I have all that stuff now. What I currently lack is motivation, and a
project anywhere near the top of my list which would benefit from that
method.
But someday...
Patriarch
On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 22:21:19 GMT, patriarch
<<patriarch>[email protected]> wrote:
>It's a method to which I aspire, someday. When I get around to it. If I
>get that good. Maybe. <g>
I'll bet you could do it now, if you have even a really basic router
table and some scrap to mess around with.
The "track" gets made as a stock molding, with one pass on each side
with a dovetail bit to shape it. Routing the slot in the molding is
only slightly more difficult. A scrap section of molding is used to
align the tracks.
Barry
On Sat, 06 Nov 2004 18:44:14 GMT, patriarch
<<patriarch>[email protected]> wrote:
>And Titebond makes a moulding glue (maybe $4 for 8 oz bottle) for just this
>purpose.
>
>Why a special glue? It doesn't run. It dries clear and rubbery, so if you
>miss the squeeze out, you can trim it off within 24 hrs. It sticks
>quickly, but allows adjustment. And it cleans up with water.
>
Sounds like latex caulk.
Okay, I was all set to just go with the glue based on the intitial
suggestions that glue only will do the trick (with the tip of hot glue to
hold the trim in place while the glue dries). Now a couple say the shifts
in wood require brads.
The bookcase is made of red oak. So any other votes or change of votes on
using nails as well as glue? I have a feeling the wife is going to want the
piece stained and I hear that staining with nail holes puttied in doesn't
work very well.
"patriarch [email protected]>" <<patriarch> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Luigi Zanasi <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> I like the hot melt idea, if you have one available.
Are you referring to a regular ol' hot glue gun that is for general around
the house gluing (broken toys)? Or something more specific to woodworking?
On Tue, 09 Nov 2004 01:52:47 GMT, "Corey" <[email protected]> wrote:
>"Ba r r y" <[email protected]> wrote in message >
>
>> Are the sides solid red oak, or red oak plywood?
>
>Then entire piece is all solid red oak.
>
>
>> If the sides are solid, I would not glue the entire length of molding
>> in place. I would apply glue at the front, near the miter, with a
>> brad or two towards the rear. The glue will hold the molding tightly
>> near the miter, so that it dosen't open, while the brads will allow a
>> tiny bit of movement as the sides ever so slightly change width
>> through the seasons.
>
>To make sure I understand, I'm going to have a front and two side pieces of
>trim. Are you saying to glue all three pieces near the miters, and nail a
>brad towards the rear of the side pieces and no brads on the front piece?
>I'll see if I can convey my understanding with a little schematic (B =
>brads, G = glue).
think of it like this: if the trim molding and the solid wood face
it's attached to have grain running the same direction you can fasten
them solidly together with glue. if they have grain running at 90
degrees to each other you'd better use a connection that allows
movement.
On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 16:45:03 GMT, patriarch
<<patriarch>[email protected]> wrote:
>Remember that Corey is taking his first adult ed class here, Barry. The
>tools and instruction seem pretty limited.
I missed that! You're right, it wouldn't be a good beginner
technique.
Once they get to a table mounted router, I'll recommend it again. <G>
Barry
On 7 Nov 2004 07:28:52 -0800, [email protected] (mike) wrote:
>Nail the trim, glue miters. Use brad nails and a drill bit the same
>size as the brads. If the book case is made from solid wood, gluing
>the trim won't work.Solid wood expands and contracts with the seasons.
Mounting the trim to sliding dovetail tracks that are screwed to the
carcase is a nice way to attach moldings to solid pieces. The
moldings are glued at the front, where the miters are, but are free to
slide as the side moves.
It's actually pretty easy to do as well, with a dovetail bit and
router table.
Barry
On Sat, 06 Nov 2004 13:29:26 GMT, "Corey" <[email protected]>
scribbled:
>New question...
>
>I'm looking to add some trim to my bookcase for decorative purposes to
>pretty things up. My question is how to attach the trim the carcass - just
>glue or glue and finish nails?
I would use only glue, with masking tape to hold/clamp the trim in
place until the glue dries. Nail holes are a PITA to fill & hide.
Luigi
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/antifaq.html
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/humour.html