Dear All,
I was asked by a router bit company to make some sample doors for them for
the Hardware show starting in Toronto this weekend and for the Woodworking
show at the end of February. I was asked to make two samples of each set,
one glued up and one glued at only two of the four corners. I was given
eight rail and stile sets of various configurations. Ogee, Cove, Quarter
round, mini's, w/backcutters, etc., 24 bit changes and set-ups.
http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/doorparts.jpg
The one real PITA was the lock mitre samples, 10 sets each for 5/8" and
3/4". I had never set up a lock mitre bit before, and doing so without
instructions was a bit of a challenge. I got it with about 5 test cuts for
the two sizes of bits, but it was harder than I thought. The 10 sample sets
for a drawer lock bit were certainly easier. (piles of boards on the right)
http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/donedoors.jpg
The doors turned out nicely, and I now own almost every possible profile...
Thanks,
David.
Every neighbourhood has one, in mine, I'm him.
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Upscale wrote:
>
> "David F. Eisan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > The one real PITA was the lock mitre samples, 10 sets each for 5/8" and
> > 3/4". I had never set up a lock mitre bit before, and doing so without
> > instructions was a bit of a challenge. I got it with about 5 test cuts for
> > http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/donedoors.jpg
>
> If I understand correctly, you've used a lock and mitre set for the rails
> and stiles. When assembling these samples, do they slide together or do they
> essentially 'snap' together. The reason I'm asking is that I've never
> handled a lock and mitre set.
Gentlemen - did you miss the Lock Miter threads here or in a.b.p.w.?
The Lock Miter Joint is slick - even works for sloped sided
boxes/trays
and slick for all mitered edges.corners boxes, AND, there's no need
to compensate for joinery when figuring out part dimensions. You
need a box 3 x 4 x 5 you cut the two sides at 3x5, the front and back
at 4x5 and the top and bottom at 3x4.
Depending on what you're making and which edges you cut how, you can
either slip the last piece in or "snap it in".
Having a way to control the stock as you route them - one done with
the stock vertical and one cut with the stock horizontal - is
essential for good results. You can make push fixtures easily and
the ones shown here work great (all one line so watch the line wrap)
http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/SharpeningCenter/SharpeningCenter5.html
charlie b
Oh - David - YOU SUCK!
"David F. Eisan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> The one real PITA was the lock mitre samples, 10 sets each for 5/8" and
> 3/4". I had never set up a lock mitre bit before, and doing so without
> instructions was a bit of a challenge. I got it with about 5 test cuts for
> http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/donedoors.jpg
If I understand correctly, you've used a lock and mitre set for the rails
and stiles. When assembling these samples, do they slide together or do they
essentially 'snap' together. The reason I'm asking is that I've never
handled a lock and mitre set.