I'm getting ready to build a fireplace surround to cover a brick floor
to ceiling fireplace. There are some places where 1x4 will be edge
butted vertically against the brick. The 1x4 is true on the edge, the
brick is not. So, I guess I need to either carefully cope out the 1x4
or use a caulk for beading between the wood edge and the brick. Any
suggestions on the type of caulk or beading? I'm using birch for this
project that will be stained a dark cherry. Is there any caulk that can
take a stain?
Thanks for all suggestions.
Cap'n 321 wrote:
> I'm getting ready to build a fireplace surround to cover a brick floor
> to ceiling fireplace. There are some places where 1x4 will be edge
> butted vertically against the brick. The 1x4 is true on the edge, the
> brick is not. So, I guess I need to either carefully cope out the 1x4
> or use a caulk for beading between the wood edge and the brick. Any
> suggestions on the type of caulk or beading? I'm using birch for this
> project that will be stained a dark cherry. Is there any caulk that can
> take a stain?
There are code requirements limiting how closely combustibles can be to
a fireplace opening, so you should look into those requirements before
sizing the fireplace opening. As far as the caulk, It's unlikely that
you will be able to stain the caulk to give anything more than a very
rough approximation of the stained wood. It's probably preferable cope
the wood. If you're set on using caulk, a color-matched tile caulk
would be your best bet. Try a real tile store - they usually stock a
dozen colors and can get more.
R
On 9 Dec 2006 11:32:50 -0800, RicodJour wrote:
> There are code requirements limiting how closely combustibles can be to a
> fireplace opening, so you should look into those requirements before sizing
> the fireplace opening.
I advise checking with the local inspector before proceeding in any case.
In my case, the brick facade from about 16 inches above the opening and down
to the floor was part of the chimney structure (no thermal break). The AHJ
here insisted that there be no wood in contact with the masonry in that area,
even beyond the required clearance from the opening. It seems the wood framed
walls on either side of the structure were as close as he'd allow wood to get
to the opening.
--
Art Greenberg
artg at eclipse dot net
"Cap'n 321" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm getting ready to build a fireplace surround to cover a brick floor to
> ceiling fireplace. There are some places where 1x4 will be edge butted
> vertically against the brick. The 1x4 is true on the edge, the brick is
> not. So, I guess I need to either carefully cope out the 1x4 or use a
> caulk for beading between the wood edge and the brick. Any suggestions on
> the type of caulk or beading? I'm using birch for this project that will
> be stained a dark cherry. Is there any caulk that can take a stain?
>
> Thanks for all suggestions.
I'd use a pencil and scribe and cut the line with a BS or jig saw and or put
mortar in the crack.
"Leon" wrote in message
> I'd use a pencil and scribe and cut the line with a BS or jig saw and or
put
> mortar in the crack.
And that is exactly what it would be/look like if it was the other way
around and the brick was put up last. This is probably the best solution to
the problem.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/29/06