I have an old ( circa 1958) craftsman contractor saw that I've used for
years with no problems. Recently moved to new home and, although I'm going
to tune-up everything on the saw I haven't done that yet. Had to rip an oak
board and noticed that the cut face of the cutoff piece had saw burn marks
on it. The cut piece was as good as you can get with a W.W.II Forrest blade.
Anything special I should check for when I do he tune-up?
Thanx,
Vic
--
There are 10 kinds of people - those who understand binary and those who
don't
Vic Baron wrote:
> and when I went out to the back this AM, the water in the birdbath was
> frozen solid I think some of my tools are suffering from climatic change
> :)
Time for a little payback toward all you obnoxious fair weather
it's-February-and-I'm-surfing So-Cal people. Here in the mountains of
Virginia, it was 65 F in the shade.
Take THAT! Hah!
:)
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
http://rosegarden.sourceforge.net/tutorial/
"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> If it looks like it is the saw, then probably the fence toes out from the
> blade excessively. First verify that the blade is parallel to the miter
slots;
> then make the fence parallel also.
Makes no difference how far the fence toes out after the cut, as long as
pressure against the fence ceases as the cut begins.
Oak is notorious for casehardening in the kiln. It produces precisely the
symptoms you mention.
On Mon, 06 Dec 2004 17:23:05 GMT, "Vic Baron" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I have an old ( circa 1958) craftsman contractor saw that I've used for
>years with no problems. Recently moved to new home and, although I'm going
>to tune-up everything on the saw I haven't done that yet. Had to rip an oak
>board and noticed that the cut face of the cutoff piece had saw burn marks
>on it. The cut piece was as good as you can get with a W.W.II Forrest blade.
>
>Anything special I should check for when I do he tune-up?
>
>Thanx,
>
>Vic
Try these: the blade must be parallel to the fence, the blade is
damaged or needs sharpening, the blade is installed backwards. If it
burned just one piece of oak and not another, it could be due to
internal stress in the wood. Sounds like a very nice saw at that age.
In article <[email protected]>, "George" <george@least> wrote:
>"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>>
>> If it looks like it is the saw, then probably the fence toes out from the
>> blade excessively. First verify that the blade is parallel to the miter
>slots;
>> then make the fence parallel also.
>
>Makes no difference how far the fence toes out after the cut, as long as
>pressure against the fence ceases as the cut begins.
This is somewhat ambiguous. To clarify, pressure should be applied against the
fence during the entire time of the cut, but only on the portion of the wood
that has not yet been cut.
>
>Oak is notorious for case hardening in the kiln. It produces precisely the
>symptoms you mention.
.. which, of course, is precisely the reason I advised him to first try a
different board, before checking for problems with the saw...
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter
by sending email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
You must use your REAL email address to get a response.
Make sure the fence is parallel to the blade or is toed slightly out at
the back. Make sure the feed rate is sufficiently fast to avoid
burning. Is your blade sharp? Make sure the splitter is adjusted
correctly.
David
Vic Baron wrote:
> I have an old ( circa 1958) craftsman contractor saw that I've used for
> years with no problems. Recently moved to new home and, although I'm going
> to tune-up everything on the saw I haven't done that yet. Had to rip an oak
> board and noticed that the cut face of the cutoff piece had saw burn marks
> on it. The cut piece was as good as you can get with a W.W.II Forrest blade.
>
> Anything special I should check for when I do he tune-up?
>
> Thanx,
>
> Vic
>
Thanx for the suggestions - turns out it must have been the internal stress
thing. Ripped a few more pieces and also some pine - slick as a whistle - no
burn marks. Finished unpacking the last of the tools so this weekend it
will be tune-up time for all my larger tools. No matter how careful you are
in wrapping and protecting, I'm sure some fences, etc. got bumped and may be
out of alignment. Also, considering I live in Southern California and when I
went out to the back this AM, the water in the birdbath was frozen solid I
think some of my tools are suffering from climatic change :)
Vic
"Vic Baron" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have an old ( circa 1958) craftsman contractor saw that I've used for
> years with no problems. Recently moved to new home and, although I'm going
> to tune-up everything on the saw I haven't done that yet. Had to rip an
oak
> board and noticed that the cut face of the cutoff piece had saw burn marks
> on it. The cut piece was as good as you can get with a W.W.II Forrest
blade.
>
> Anything special I should check for when I do he tune-up?
>
> Thanx,
>
> Vic
>
> --
> There are 10 kinds of people - those who understand binary and those who
> don't
>
>
In article <[email protected]>, "Vic Baron" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I have an old ( circa 1958) craftsman contractor saw that I've used for
>years with no problems. Recently moved to new home and, although I'm going
>to tune-up everything on the saw I haven't done that yet. Had to rip an oak
>board and noticed that the cut face of the cutoff piece had saw burn marks
>on it. The cut piece was as good as you can get with a W.W.II Forrest blade.
>
>Anything special I should check for when I do he tune-up?
Could be caused by internal stresses in the wood. The first thing I'd do is
rip another board, to verify that the problem really is in the saw.
If it looks like it is the saw, then probably the fence toes out from the
blade excessively. First verify that the blade is parallel to the miter slots;
then make the fence parallel also.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter
by sending email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
You must use your REAL email address to get a response.
"Silvan" wrote in message
> Time for a little payback toward all you obnoxious fair weather
> it's-February-and-I'm-surfing So-Cal people. Here in the mountains of
> Virginia, it was 65 F in the shade.
>
> Take THAT! Hah!
One week ago today I actually scrapped a bit of ice off the windshield of my
truck about 5:30 AM ... in Houston! A day later it was back in the upper
70's. I've got a framing crew working, and considering the amount of rain
we've had, they've only lost two days work in 14, not counting Thanksgiving
day. <looking for wood to knock on> It's absolutely amazing how much work
can be done without the 100 degree heat slowing things down.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 11/06/04