Dado cut in beveled stock - how to?

Gary -

If I was scrapping the "offcut" yes, it could be discarded. However, if I
can make the cut somehow, safely, then I will be able to get two pcs per
board... That's the rub..

John

John Moorhead wrote:
> Folks -
>
> The Wif and I want to make some small boxes as Christmas (not holiday)
> gifts... I have a bunch of redwood 2x6 that would be very nice...
> What I want to do is rip the boards at an angle on edge so that the
> inside faces will be beveled slightly... Think of a 30 /60 degree
> triangle for the "end view".
>
> Ok, now, I'll need to cut either a rabbet or dado in the thicker
> section for a box bottom, and a dado in the thinner top section for
> the box top. How do I do this and have the cut be square to the
> outside face? If I cut those dados on the beveled side of the board,
> the cheeks of the dados will be canted when the box is assembled.
>
> I had thought about offsetting the boards after I rip them, and using
> the "other board" to keep the inside face at 90 deg when I cut the
> dado, but thought I'd post this for remarks.
>
> In ASCII, here's an end view of what hope to do, and convey. The I
> couldn't draw the bevel very well, but that's what the slash
> represents.. ___________________________________________
>>
> _ |
>> | |
>> /
>> __
>> | | / scrap piece
>> | |
>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> TIA,
>
> John

Can you cut the dado in before cutting the bevel? This would work if you're
scrapping the opposite side of the bevel cut.. the dashed line (that I
added) being flat to the saw surface.

Gary

John Moorhead wrote:
> Gary -
>
> If I was scrapping the "offcut" yes, it could be discarded. However,
> if I can make the cut somehow, safely, then I will be able to get two
> pcs per board... That's the rub..
>
> John

The next option then is to make a sled to carry the cut piece in the
orientation needed. The sled would need to have reinforcement at each end
to keep the sled together (length wise on either side of the dado).

W/O pictures it's kind of hard to explain.

Gary

If you have a router table you could cut a beveled fixture that you could
clamp to the table that has the opposing angle. The opposing angle would
face the table fence so the beveled stock sits in it squarely. Then just a
down force featherboard to maintain the proper depth. You could accomplish
this on the table saw but I think the router is a safer approach.

Knot

Folks -

The illustration looks like it got garbled... But in OE, I can see that the
dado shown in the thicker section does make sense...
Any ideas?

J

"John Moorhead" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Folks -
>
> The Wif and I want to make some small boxes as Christmas (not holiday)
> gifts... I have a bunch of redwood 2x6 that would be very nice... What I
> want to do is rip the boards at an angle on edge so that the inside faces
> will be beveled slightly... Think of a 30 /60 degree triangle for the "end
> view".
>
> Ok, now, I'll need to cut either a rabbet or dado in the thicker section
> for a box bottom, and a dado in the thinner top section for the box top.
> How do I do this and have the cut be square to the outside face? If I cut
> those dados on the beveled side of the board, the cheeks of the dados will
> be canted when the box is assembled.
>
> I had thought about offsetting the boards after I rip them, and using the
> "other board" to keep the inside face at 90 deg when I cut the dado, but
> thought I'd post this for remarks.
>
> In ASCII, here's an end view of what hope to do, and convey. The I
> couldn't draw the bevel very well, but that's what the slash represents..
> ___________________________________________
> | _ |
> |
> | | |
> | /
> | __
> | | | /
> | | |
> |/
>
>
> TIA,
>
> John
>

> Gary -
>
> If I was scrapping the "offcut" yes, it could be discarded. However, if I
> can make the cut somehow, safely, then I will be able to get two pcs per
> board... That's the rub..
>
> John

Actually, fairly easy...if you have or have access to a radial arm saw. do
the bevel rip on your lumber in whatever manner you wish, then proceed to
the RAS with the dado blade already set-up. Obviously, you'll need to be
careful with your anti-kick back pawls and blade shroud as the blade guard
doesn't align to a beveled surface very well.

I know that there are many out there that may want to throw out all RASs out
there, this is one of the real reasons that they are still worth having.

Luck

Mike

Not sure why my post didn't show last time.
Just tilt the dado blade and cut.

-j


"John Moorhead" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Folks -
>
> The Wif and I want to make some small boxes as Christmas (not holiday)
> gifts... I have a bunch of redwood 2x6 that would be very nice... What I
> want to do is rip the boards at an angle on edge so that the inside faces
> will be beveled slightly... Think of a 30 /60 degree triangle for the "end
> view".
>
> Ok, now, I'll need to cut either a rabbet or dado in the thicker section
for
> a box bottom, and a dado in the thinner top section for the box top. How
do
> I do this and have the cut be square to the outside face? If I cut those
> dados on the beveled side of the board, the cheeks of the dados will be
> canted when the box is assembled.
>
> I had thought about offsetting the boards after I rip them, and using the
> "other board" to keep the inside face at 90 deg when I cut the dado, but
> thought I'd post this for remarks.
>
> In ASCII, here's an end view of what hope to do, and convey. The I
couldn't
> draw the bevel very well, but that's what the slash represents..
> ___________________________________________
> |
> _ |
> |
|
> | |
> | /
> | __
> | | | /
> | | |
> |/
>
>
> TIA,
>
> John
>
>

On Mon, 6 Dec 2004 19:22:27 -0600, "The Davenport's"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>> Gary -
>>
>> If I was scrapping the "offcut" yes, it could be discarded. However, if I
>> can make the cut somehow, safely, then I will be able to get two pcs per
>> board... That's the rub..
>>
>> John
>
>Actually, fairly easy...if you have or have access to a radial arm saw. do
>the bevel rip on your lumber in whatever manner you wish, then proceed to
>the RAS with the dado blade already set-up. Obviously, you'll need to be
>careful with your anti-kick back pawls and blade shroud as the blade guard
>doesn't align to a beveled surface very well.
>
>I know that there are many out there that may want to throw out all RASs out
>there, this is one of the real reasons that they are still worth having.
>
>Luck
>
>Mike
>
and if you know anyone with a *shudder* Shopsmith, they can route it
from the top, as a RAS would, but with much more control and (IMO)
safety..
no problem with the bevel, as the table can be tilted to match/offset
if needed..

"John Moorhead" <[email protected]> writes:


[...]

> Ok, now, I'll need to cut either a rabbet or dado in the thicker section for
> a box bottom, and a dado in the thinner top section for the box top. How do
> I do this and have the cut be square to the outside face? If I cut those
> dados on the beveled side of the board, the cheeks of the dados will be
> canted when the box is assembled.

Make the dado with a plane: Span the wood on your workbench with the
bevel up, mount a guide (any straight beam) above and use that to keep
the dado plane straight. Easy to do and a good excuse to get
(build/buy) a dado plane.
The ones on
http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe/holzarbeiten/index.html
took a few hours each to build.
--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23