Anyone Use Steel Oldham 180 Tooth plywood Blade?

"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Anyone use this blade for plywood?
> 10" - 180 teeth.
> <http://img.interstore.com/199/736B752D303039343534342D3030_0.jpg>
> It's just a straight up steel blade with tiny raked teeth, and very
> thin... kind of like a circular dovetail saw.
>
> I used one way back in the day and seem to remember it making a
> really nice cut, but I'm not sure.
> Makes perfect sense, in theory, that it would cut plywood like
> butter.
>
> Also, since it's so thin, should I use a stabilizer?
>
>
> --
>
> -MIKE-
>
> "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
> --Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
> --
> http://mikedrums.com
> [email protected]
> ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Mike,

I have one and used it recently for cutting some ply for a kitchen
island I'm making.

1. Make a zero clearance insert just for that blade

2. When cutting - remember good side up (A side) and score the ply on
the B side before making the final cut if you want a splinter free cut.

I usually place blue (3M) masking tape on the cut line of the side that
is facing down (B side) to help prevent splintering. Then I raise the
blade about 3/32" (or so) and make a pass to score the bottom of the
cut line. Now raise the blade about 1/2" above the good face and make
the final cut.

When you remove the tape (which you just cut down the center), pull it
at a 45° angle pulling the tape off towards the cut line you just made.
That helps the bottom veneer from splintering off. Now if you're not
concerned with how the bottom line looks, forget all the above and just
cut.

Since the blade is quite thin, I did use a 4" stabilizer and I also
made cuts without it. In my case, I didn't really notice a difference
but I wasn't really looking that hard. If there was any difference, it
wasn't enough to shout about.

Bob S.