Day 2 Saw Stop Assembly

"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
> It looks like a fine saw. Similar to a good Unisaw or 66.

Perhaps better over all, at least 100 lbs more iron, 685 lbs. 30 inch
deep table, straight up and down blade travel like the euro saws, the
trunion assy bolts to the cabinet and the top indexes in, pivots, and bolts
on the trunion. The 66 did have a Baldor motor.



Just with the safety features the SawStop adds. Which is good. But I
still can't understand why you or anyone would choose a cabinet saw over a
sliding tablesaw? The Professional model starts at about $2900. And the
Industrial model starts at about $3900. For not much more or about the
same price, you can get one of the European sliding tablesaws. The sliding
part more or less eliminates the safety part the SawStop adds. Its just as
safe as the SawStop. But far more functional with the sliding table.

For starters, only right tilt. I strongly considered the Laguna TSS with
scoring and sliding table but out feed table takes up a lot of room,
Comparably priced, about $1000 more.
The euro saws are safer than American style saws however you can still do
serious harm to yourself should you make a mistake. There is absolutely no
way a euro stole saw is as safe as a SawStop.

YMMV



>
>
>
> On Friday, April 26, 2013 2:26:02 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
>> OK this morning I began the assembly of the actual saw. Wow, not much
>>
>> to do. Attach the left cast iron extension wing and add the bevel wheel
>>
>> handle. the wheel was already mounted. Add the power cord and the saw
>>
>> is done.
>>
>>
>>
>> Then comes the add on 52" capacity rip fence.
>>
>>
>>
>> The left extension from the bottom side.
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8683243275/in/photostream
>>
>>
>>
>> All the hardware to just put the saw together
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8683243945/in/photostream/
>>
>>
>>
>> Bottom of the Extension Table
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8683244611/in/photostream/
>>
>>
>>
>> The saw!
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8684362184/in/photostream/
>>
>>
>>
>> 52" rip capacity
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8684362752/in/photostream/
>>
>>
>>
>> 12" to the left of the blade
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8684363276/in/photostream/
>>
>>
>>
>> Long ass honk'n wrenches. I suppose you can get the arbor nut tight
>>
>> enough with these. ;~)
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8684410792/in/photostream/
>>
>>
>>
>> I need to adjust the fence and add the power cable and I should be ready
>>
>> to cut wood! Except for dealing with heavy stuff the assembly has bee
>>
>> perfect. No missing holes, no holes in the wrong place.

"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Leon" wrote:
>
>> Not sure what you are talking about here, the motor hangs under
>> everything.
> ---------------------------------------------
> "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
>
> That wasn't evident from your pics, but it sure makes life a lot more
> simplier.
> ------------------------------------------------

Take a look here
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8680319295/in/photostream/



> "Leon" wrote:
>
>> It is, there is a code on the motor start switch box should that
>> happen.
> ------------------------------------------------
> "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
>
> Does it turn off the motor and require a manual reset?

Yes, if over loaded the system will shut off the motor and show an error
code. To clear the code the motor paddle switch must be turned off and
then you must turn off the Main power switch and then back on in reverse
order.



>
> Lew

Leon <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> "Leon" wrote:
>>
>>> Not sure what you are talking about here, the motor hangs under
>>> everything.
>> ---------------------------------------------
>> "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
>>
>> That wasn't evident from your pics, but it sure makes life a lot more
>> simplier.
>> ------------------------------------------------
>
> Take a look here
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8680319295/in/photostream/
>
>
>
>> "Leon" wrote:
>>
>>> It is, there is a code on the motor start switch box should that
>>> happen.
>> ------------------------------------------------
>> "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
>>
>> Does it turn off the motor and require a manual reset?
>
> Yes, if over loaded the system will shut off the motor and show an error
> code. To clear the code the motor paddle switch must be turned off and
> then you must turn off the Main power switch and then back on in reverse
> order.
>
>
>
>>
>> Lew

What you may have seen was the belt side of the saw. There are 2
serpentine style belts. One belt runs off the motor to a transition pulley,
next to that pulley is another that turns a belt that is connected to the
arbor pulley.

"G. Ross" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>> OK this morning I began the assembly of the actual saw. Wow, not much
>> to do. Attach the left cast iron extension wing and add the bevel wheel
>> handle. the wheel was already mounted. Add the power cord and the saw
>> is done.
>>
>> Then comes the add on 52" capacity rip fence.
>>
>> The left extension from the bottom side.
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8683243275/in/photostream
>>
>> All the hardware to just put the saw together
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8683243945/in/photostream/
>>
>> Bottom of the Extension Table
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8683244611/in/photostream/
>>
>> The saw!
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8684362184/in/photostream/
>>
>> 52" rip capacity
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8684362752/in/photostream/
>>
>> 12" to the left of the blade
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8684363276/in/photostream/
>>
>> Long ass honk'n wrenches. I suppose you can get the arbor nut tight
>> enough with these. ;~)
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8684410792/in/photostream/
>>
>> I need to adjust the fence and add the power cable and I should be ready
>> to cut wood! Except for dealing with heavy stuff the assembly has bee
>> perfect. No missing holes, no holes in the wrong place.
>>
>
> Where was it made?


IIRC it is Built in Asia. However it is not an Asian model modified to what
SawStop wanted so to speak. The total design is SawStop.

"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
> It looks like a fine saw. Similar to a good Unisaw or 66. Just with the
> safety features the SawStop adds. Which is good. But I still can't
> understand why you or anyone would choose a cabinet saw over a sliding
> tablesaw? The Professional model starts at about $2900. And the
> Industrial model starts at about $3900. For not much more or about the
> same price, you can get one of the European sliding tablesaws. The
> sliding part more or less eliminates the safety part the SawStop adds.
> Its just as safe as the SawStop. But far more functional with the sliding table.

If you already own a top of the line plunge cut saw like a Festool '55 or
'75, there is much less need for a Euro sliding saw table.


--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)

It looks like a fine saw. Similar to a good Unisaw or 66. Just with the s=
afety features the SawStop adds. Which is good. But I still can't underst=
and why you or anyone would choose a cabinet saw over a sliding tablesaw? =
The Professional model starts at about $2900. And the Industrial model sta=
rts at about $3900. For not much more or about the same price, you can get=
one of the European sliding tablesaws. The sliding part more or less elim=
inates the safety part the SawStop adds. Its just as safe as the SawStop. =
But far more functional with the sliding table.




On Friday, April 26, 2013 2:26:02 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
> OK this morning I began the assembly of the actual saw. Wow, not much=20
>=20
> to do. Attach the left cast iron extension wing and add the bevel wheel=
=20
>=20
> handle. the wheel was already mounted. Add the power cord and the saw=
=20
>=20
> is done.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> Then comes the add on 52" capacity rip fence.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> The left extension from the bottom side.
>=20
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8683243275/in/photostream
>=20
>=20
>=20
> All the hardware to just put the saw together
>=20
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8683243945/in/photostream/
>=20
>=20
>=20
> Bottom of the Extension Table
>=20
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8683244611/in/photostream/
>=20
>=20
>=20
> The saw!
>=20
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8684362184/in/photostream/
>=20
>=20
>=20
> 52" rip capacity
>=20
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8684362752/in/photostream/
>=20
>=20
>=20
> 12" to the left of the blade
>=20
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8684363276/in/photostream/
>=20
>=20
>=20
> Long ass honk'n wrenches. I suppose you can get the arbor nut tight=20
>=20
> enough with these. ;~)
>=20
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8684410792/in/photostream/
>=20
>=20
>=20
> I need to adjust the fence and add the power cable and I should be ready=
=20
>=20
> to cut wood! Except for dealing with heavy stuff the assembly has bee=20
>=20
> perfect. No missing holes, no holes in the wrong place.

"Leon" wrote:

> I need to adjust the fence and add the power cable and I should be
> ready to cut wood! Except for dealing with heavy stuff the assembly
> has bee perfect. No missing holes, no holes in the wrong place.
<snip>

A word of caution.

Looking at your pics, you have a cap start, cap run motor
that has been shoe horned into the innards of the saw,
which translates into some bastard mounting arrangement.

Translation:

If you have to replace that motor, it's going to be expensive,
and that does include the out and in charges to do the job.

Make sure that motor is protected with a thermal overload before you
start cutting.

DO NOT depend on the c'bkr or fuses mounted back at the wall or in
the panel box to protect the motor, they are for the conductors
feeding
the motor.

They ain't never going to protect the motor.

I suspect there is already is a thermal overload installed, but you
never know.

Have fun.

Lew

"Leon" wrote:

> Not sure what you are talking about here, the motor hangs under
> everything.
---------------------------------------------
"Lew Hodgett" wrote:

That wasn't evident from your pics, but it sure makes life a lot more
simplier.
------------------------------------------------
"Leon" wrote:

> It is, there is a code on the motor start switch box should that
> happen.
------------------------------------------------
"Lew Hodgett" wrote:

Does it turn off the motor and require a manual reset?

Lew

"Leon" wrote:

> Not sure what you are talking about here, the motor hangs under
> everything.
---------------------------------------------
"Lew Hodgett" wrote:
>
> That wasn't evident from your pics, but it sure makes life a lot
> more
> simplier.
------------------------------------------------
"Leon" wrote:

> Take a look here
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8680319295/in/photostream/
-------------------------------------------------
"Lew Hodgett" wrote:

Saw that post but it didn't show me the motor was low.

Mea Culpa.


Does it turn off the motor and require a manual reset?

-------------------------------------------
"Leon" wrote:


> Yes, if over loaded the system will shut off the motor and show an
> error
> code. To clear the code the motor paddle switch must be turned off
> and
> then you must turn off the Main power switch and then back on in
> reverse
> order.
-------------------------------------------
Super.

Lew

"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Leon" wrote:
>
>> I need to adjust the fence and add the power cable and I should be
>> ready to cut wood! Except for dealing with heavy stuff the assembly
>> has bee perfect. No missing holes, no holes in the wrong place.
> <snip>
>
> A word of caution.
>
> Looking at your pics, you have a cap start, cap run motor
> that has been shoe horned into the innards of the saw,
> which translates into some bastard mounting arrangemen

Not sure what you are talking about here, the motor hangs under everything.



>
> Translation:
>
> If you have to replace that motor, it's going to be expensive,
> and that does include the out and in charges to do the job.
>
> Make sure that motor is protected with a thermal overload before you
> start cutting.
>
It is, there is a code on the motor start switch box should that happen.

On 4/26/2013 9:14 PM, Leon wrote:
> "G. Ross" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Leon wrote:
>>> OK this morning I began the assembly of the actual saw. Wow, not much
>>> to do. Attach the left cast iron extension wing and add the bevel wheel
>>> handle. the wheel was already mounted. Add the power cord and the saw
>>> is done.
>>>
>>> Then comes the add on 52" capacity rip fence.
>>>
>>> The left extension from the bottom side.
>>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8683243275/in/photostream
>>>
>>> All the hardware to just put the saw together
>>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8683243945/in/photostream/
>>>
>>> Bottom of the Extension Table
>>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8683244611/in/photostream/
>>>
>>> The saw!
>>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8684362184/in/photostream/
>>>
>>> 52" rip capacity
>>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8684362752/in/photostream/
>>>
>>> 12" to the left of the blade
>>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8684363276/in/photostream/
>>>
>>> Long ass honk'n wrenches. I suppose you can get the arbor nut tight
>>> enough with these. ;~)
>>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8684410792/in/photostream/
>>>
>>> I need to adjust the fence and add the power cable and I should be ready
>>> to cut wood! Except for dealing with heavy stuff the assembly has bee
>>> perfect. No missing holes, no holes in the wrong place.
>>>
>>
>> Where was it made?
>
>
> IIRC it is Built in Asia. However it is not an Asian model modified to what
> SawStop wanted so to speak. The total design is SawStop.
>
That blows, I thought it was made here in the US.

--
Jeff

On 4/26/2013 9:12 PM, woodchucker wrote:
> On 4/26/2013 9:14 PM, Leon wrote:
>> "G. Ross" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> Leon wrote:
>>>> OK this morning I began the assembly of the actual saw. Wow, not much
>>>> to do. Attach the left cast iron extension wing and add the bevel
>>>> wheel
>>>> handle. the wheel was already mounted. Add the power cord and the saw
>>>> is done.
>>>>
>>>> Then comes the add on 52" capacity rip fence.
>>>>
>>>> The left extension from the bottom side.
>>>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8683243275/in/photostream
>>>>
>>>> All the hardware to just put the saw together
>>>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8683243945/in/photostream/
>>>>
>>>> Bottom of the Extension Table
>>>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8683244611/in/photostream/
>>>>
>>>> The saw!
>>>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8684362184/in/photostream/
>>>>
>>>> 52" rip capacity
>>>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8684362752/in/photostream/
>>>>
>>>> 12" to the left of the blade
>>>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8684363276/in/photostream/
>>>>
>>>> Long ass honk'n wrenches. I suppose you can get the arbor nut tight
>>>> enough with these. ;~)
>>>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8684410792/in/photostream/
>>>>
>>>> I need to adjust the fence and add the power cable and I should be
>>>> ready
>>>> to cut wood! Except for dealing with heavy stuff the assembly has bee
>>>> perfect. No missing holes, no holes in the wrong place.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Where was it made?
>>
>>
>> IIRC it is Built in Asia. However it is not an Asian model modified to
>> what
>> SawStop wanted so to speak. The total design is SawStop.
>>
> That blows, I thought it was made here in the US.
>

If it were made in the US it would cost twice as much. Not to mention
no manufacturer wanted to have anything to do with it.

Leon wrote:
> OK this morning I began the assembly of the actual saw. Wow, not much
> to do. Attach the left cast iron extension wing and add the bevel wheel
> handle. the wheel was already mounted. Add the power cord and the saw
> is done.
>
> Then comes the add on 52" capacity rip fence.
>
> The left extension from the bottom side.
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8683243275/in/photostream
>
> All the hardware to just put the saw together
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8683243945/in/photostream/
>
> Bottom of the Extension Table
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8683244611/in/photostream/
>
> The saw!
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8684362184/in/photostream/
>
> 52" rip capacity
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8684362752/in/photostream/
>
> 12" to the left of the blade
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8684363276/in/photostream/
>
> Long ass honk'n wrenches. I suppose you can get the arbor nut tight
> enough with these. ;~)
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8684410792/in/photostream/
>
> I need to adjust the fence and add the power cable and I should be ready
> to cut wood! Except for dealing with heavy stuff the assembly has bee
> perfect. No missing holes, no holes in the wrong place.
>

Where was it made?

--
 GW Ross 

 In nature, there are no rewards or 
 punishments, only consequences. 

On 4/27/2013 2:08 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Fri, 26 Apr 2013 14:26:02 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>> The saw!
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8684362184/in/photostream/
>
> I might have missed it, but what are you going to do for dust
> collection? Also, any plans for an over arm blade guard/dust
> collection?
> http://www.amazon.com/Excalibur-Over-Arm-Blade-Cover/dp/B0032YT1EW
>


Ill be using my dust collector.... No plans for over arm.

On 4/26/13 9:12 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>> IIRC it is Built in Asia. However it is not an Asian model modified to
>> what
>> SawStop wanted so to speak. The total design is SawStop.
>>
> That blows, I thought it was made here in the US.
>

If it was, it would cost 10 grand.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Fri, 26 Apr 2013 12:55:39 -0700 (PDT), "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>For not much more or about the same price, you can get one of the European sliding tablesaws. The sliding part more or less eliminates the safety part the SawStop adds. Its just as safe as the SawStop. But far more functional with the sliding table.

Really, they come that cheap? Even the General Model 50-320 runs about
$12,000.

I talked a little about sliding table saws with Leon several days ago.
We both envisioned a Martin or an Altendorf. Considering the one I had
in mind was in the neighbourhood of $30,000, they were just a little
more than the price of any SawStop.

On Fri, 26 Apr 2013 14:26:02 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>The saw!
>http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8684362184/in/photostream/

I might have missed it, but what are you going to do for dust
collection? Also, any plans for an over arm blade guard/dust
collection?
http://www.amazon.com/Excalibur-Over-Arm-Blade-Cover/dp/B0032YT1EW

On 4/27/2013 2:18 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Fri, 26 Apr 2013 12:55:39 -0700 (PDT), "[email protected]"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> For not much more or about the same price, you can get one of the European sliding tablesaws. The sliding part more or less eliminates the safety part the SawStop adds. Its just as safe as the SawStop. But far more functional with the sliding table.
>
> Really, they come that cheap? Even the General Model 50-320 runs about
> $12,000.
>
> I talked a little about sliding table saws with Leon several days ago.
> We both envisioned a Martin or an Altendorf. Considering the one I had
> in mind was in the neighbourhood of $30,000, they were just a little
> more than the price of any SawStop.
>



Actually for a Grizzly from Asia
http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-Sliding-Table-Saw/G0623X

For a Euro Laguna TSS with Scoring Blade
http://www.lagunatools.com/tablesaws/tablesaw-tssws

For a Euro Hammer
http://www.hammerusa.com/us-us/products/table-saws/table-saw-k3-winner-31x48.html


The biggest problem s I had with the Euro saws is
1. Right tilt blade
2. Cant lift the rip fence off the top of the saw, it has to bel slid
to the end of the guide rail
3. Can't use the opposite side of the fence for a work stop during
other woodworking tasks.
4. The footprint.
5. None have a mobility system that would suite my needs.