On Fri, 26 Apr 2013 10:52:15 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>> Can be made to fit almost any existing router table. Open up the possibilities for new router profiles!
>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9a88f1pv6jM
>Very cool and well thought out fence you got there Brian..... If that
>thing was aluminum...... you might be the next competitor with Incra!
+1. I could see it selling very well.
On Sunday, April 28, 2013 10:39:58 AM UTC-4, woodchucker wrote:
> On 4/28/2013 10:13 AM, willshak wrote:
>
> > On 4/27/2013 11:39 AM, woodchucker wrote:
>
> >> On 4/27/2013 2:58 AM, [email protected] wrote:
>
> >>> On Fri, 26 Apr 2013 10:52:15 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>
> >>>>> Can be made to fit almost any existing router table. Open up the
>
> >>>>> possibilities for new router profiles!
>
> >>>>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9a88f1pv6jM
>
> >>>
>
> >>>> Very cool and well thought out fence you got there Brian..... If that
>
> >>>> thing was aluminum...... you might be the next competitor with Incra!
>
> >>>
>
> >>> +1. I could see it selling very well.
>
> >>>
>
> >>
>
> >> Sorry, but I don't. I would think a tilting router base would work
>
> >> better. The gap at the bottom shows no support and that is a minus.
>
> >
>
> > How about a small chamfer on the back to lower the fence front when it's
>
> > angled?
>
> > It's for a router. How thin would the work be to be able to use a router?
>
> >
>
> It's not the fence, its the workpiece. It is off the table where it is
>
> being cut. , I would rather have the piece sitting on the table.
Not sure why the split fence opening is bothering you, but if it makes you uncomfortable then use a solid one piece fence w/ an opening in the middle for the bit.
>
> Secondly, with it off, I could not put a zero clearance insert in there.
>
> While not necessary, it's more controllable. I realize a CNC router
>
> doesn't have zero clearance. But there are definitely times you need it.
>
>
>
> Brian's works, and works well, but it is a little bit of a compromise
>
> for this reason. In his example it makes it difficult to determine depth
>
> and height.
Not at all. It's quite easy to determine the height. Line up your lumber in front of the bit against the table. You can see the profile that will be cut into the wood perfectly, height and depth.
> If the piece lies flat on the table you know the depth and
>
> height.
>
There is a price reduction in the plans. $9.95
Cheers!
>
> >>
>
> >> Sorry Brian, I didn't mean to rain on your parade. But support is
>
> >> everything, so is contact, its good, but not great.
>
> >>
>
> >> I have seen tilting router supports for sale, and a nice home made from
>
> >> Matthias. I would not use the gear that he used, but I might use the
>
> >> screw drive that he had, just coupled differently.
>
> >>
>
> >
>
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> Jeff
On Sunday, April 28, 2013 11:59:15 AM UTC-4, woodchucker wrote:
> On 4/28/2013 11:50 AM, [email protected] wrote:
>=20
> >
>=20
> > Also - You are always going to have an opening in one of the workpiece =
contact planes. There is no way around this if you want your router bit to=
make contact with the work piece. Two contact planes (router table surfac=
e and fence) are all that is ever required to stabilize the work piece. In=
a normal, non-tilting fence, you still only have two contact planes and an=
opening for the bit. Nothing has changes but the tilt angle.
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
> I sometimes use a zero clearance plate , and fence insert. When I am=20
>=20
> cutting wood that tends to tearout badly. It's the only way I have found=
=20
>=20
> to have repeatablility without wood loss.
>=20
> My split fence has bevels in it to hold the insert.
Why would you not be able to adapt an insert in this case?
>=20
> And I bought uncut inserts for my router plate. I just cut through to=20
>=20
> use them... No to little tearout even on wood that I found hard to cut=20
>=20
> otherwise.
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
> --=20
>=20
> Jeff
On 4/28/2013 4:05 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Sat, 27 Apr 2013 11:39:15 -0400, woodchucker <[email protected]>
>>> +1. I could see it selling very well.
>
>> Sorry, but I don't. I would think a tilting router base would work
>> better. The gap at the bottom shows no support and that is a minus.
>
> All things considered, this was a prototype and a fine first effort in
> my opinion. I'd expect any edition put up for sale to be mostly made
> out of metal with included sacrificial fences. It would include
> various judicious modifications as per your comment and others.
>
Again, it's not the fence's gap, its the gap on the stock being cut.
there's no support there.
--
Jeff
On 4/27/2013 2:58 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Fri, 26 Apr 2013 10:52:15 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>>> Can be made to fit almost any existing router table. Open up the possibilities for new router profiles!
>>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9a88f1pv6jM
>
>> Very cool and well thought out fence you got there Brian..... If that
>> thing was aluminum...... you might be the next competitor with Incra!
>
> +1. I could see it selling very well.
>
Sorry, but I don't. I would think a tilting router base would work
better. The gap at the bottom shows no support and that is a minus.
Sorry Brian, I didn't mean to rain on your parade. But support is
everything, so is contact, its good, but not great.
I have seen tilting router supports for sale, and a nice home made from
Matthias. I would not use the gear that he used, but I might use the
screw drive that he had, just coupled differently.
--
Jeff
On 4/28/2013 10:13 AM, willshak wrote:
> On 4/27/2013 11:39 AM, woodchucker wrote:
>> On 4/27/2013 2:58 AM, [email protected] wrote:
>>> On Fri, 26 Apr 2013 10:52:15 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>>>>> Can be made to fit almost any existing router table. Open up the
>>>>> possibilities for new router profiles!
>>>>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9a88f1pv6jM
>>>
>>>> Very cool and well thought out fence you got there Brian..... If that
>>>> thing was aluminum...... you might be the next competitor with Incra!
>>>
>>> +1. I could see it selling very well.
>>>
>>
>> Sorry, but I don't. I would think a tilting router base would work
>> better. The gap at the bottom shows no support and that is a minus.
>
> How about a small chamfer on the back to lower the fence front when it's
> angled?
> It's for a router. How thin would the work be to be able to use a router?
>
It's not the fence, its the workpiece. It is off the table where it is
being cut. , I would rather have the piece sitting on the table.
Secondly, with it off, I could not put a zero clearance insert in there.
While not necessary, it's more controllable. I realize a CNC router
doesn't have zero clearance. But there are definitely times you need it.
Brian's works, and works well, but it is a little bit of a compromise
for this reason. In his example it makes it difficult to determine depth
and height. If the piece lies flat on the table you know the depth and
height.
>>
>> Sorry Brian, I didn't mean to rain on your parade. But support is
>> everything, so is contact, its good, but not great.
>>
>> I have seen tilting router supports for sale, and a nice home made from
>> Matthias. I would not use the gear that he used, but I might use the
>> screw drive that he had, just coupled differently.
>>
>
>
--
Jeff
On 4/28/2013 12:02 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> Why would you not be able to adapt an insert in this case?
See my post in alt binaries..
Overall you tilt table works and will work for many who want this form
of tilt.
I just feel there is a better tilt by using the router tilted under the
table. Less chance of tearout, less chance of errors.
See the binaries.
--
Jeff
On Sunday, April 28, 2013 10:39:58 AM UTC-4, woodchucker wrote:
> On 4/28/2013 10:13 AM, willshak wrote:
>=20
> > On 4/27/2013 11:39 AM, woodchucker wrote:
>=20
> >> On 4/27/2013 2:58 AM, [email protected] wrote:
>=20
> >>> On Fri, 26 Apr 2013 10:52:15 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>=20
> >>>>> Can be made to fit almost any existing router table. Open up the
>=20
> >>>>> possibilities for new router profiles!
>=20
> >>>>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3D9a88f1pv6jM
>=20
> >>>
>=20
> >>>> Very cool and well thought out fence you got there Brian..... If th=
at
>=20
> >>>> thing was aluminum...... you might be the next competitor with Incr=
a!
>=20
> >>>
>=20
> >>> +1. I could see it selling very well.
>=20
> >>>
>=20
> >>
>=20
> >> Sorry, but I don't. I would think a tilting router base would work
>=20
> >> better. The gap at the bottom shows no support and that is a minus.
>=20
> >
>=20
> > How about a small chamfer on the back to lower the fence front when it'=
s
>=20
> > angled?
>=20
> > It's for a router. How thin would the work be to be able to use a route=
r?
>=20
> >
>=20
> It's not the fence, its the workpiece. It is off the table where it is=20
>=20
> being cut. , I would rather have the piece sitting on the table.=20
Also - You are always going to have an opening in one of the workpiece cont=
act planes. There is no way around this if you want your router bit to mak=
e contact with the work piece. Two contact planes (router table surface an=
d fence) are all that is ever required to stabilize the work piece. In a n=
ormal, non-tilting fence, you still only have two contact planes and an ope=
ning for the bit. Nothing has changes but the tilt angle.
>=20
> Secondly, with it off, I could not put a zero clearance insert in there.
>=20
> While not necessary, it's more controllable. I realize a CNC router=20
>=20
> doesn't have zero clearance. But there are definitely times you need it.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> Brian's works, and works well, but it is a little bit of a compromise=20
>=20
> for this reason. In his example it makes it difficult to determine depth=
=20
>=20
> and height. If the piece lies flat on the table you know the depth and=20
>=20
> height.
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
> >>
>=20
> >> Sorry Brian, I didn't mean to rain on your parade. But support is
>=20
> >> everything, so is contact, its good, but not great.
>=20
> >>
>=20
> >> I have seen tilting router supports for sale, and a nice home made fro=
m
>=20
> >> Matthias. I would not use the gear that he used, but I might use the
>=20
> >> screw drive that he had, just coupled differently.
>=20
> >>
>=20
> >
>=20
> >
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
> --=20
>=20
> Jeff
On 4/28/2013 11:44 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Sunday, April 28, 2013 10:39:58 AM UTC-4, woodchucker wrote:
>> On 4/28/2013 10:13 AM, willshak wrote:
>>
>>> On 4/27/2013 11:39 AM, woodchucker wrote:
>>
>>>> On 4/27/2013 2:58 AM, [email protected] wrote:
>>
>>>>> On Fri, 26 Apr 2013 10:52:15 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>>
>>>>>>> Can be made to fit almost any existing router table. Open up the
>>
>>>>>>> possibilities for new router profiles!
>>
>>>>>>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9a88f1pv6jM
>>
>>>>>
>>
>>>>>> Very cool and well thought out fence you got there Brian..... If that
>>
>>>>>> thing was aluminum...... you might be the next competitor with Incra!
>>
>>>>>
>>
>>>>> +1. I could see it selling very well.
>>
>>>>>
>>
>>>>
>>
>>>> Sorry, but I don't. I would think a tilting router base would work
>>
>>>> better. The gap at the bottom shows no support and that is a minus.
>>
>>>
>>
>>> How about a small chamfer on the back to lower the fence front when it's
>>
>>> angled?
>>
>>> It's for a router. How thin would the work be to be able to use a router?
>>
>>>
>>
>> It's not the fence, its the workpiece. It is off the table where it is
>>
>> being cut. , I would rather have the piece sitting on the table.
>
>
> Not sure why the split fence opening is bothering you, but if it makes you uncomfortable then use a solid one piece fence w/ an opening in the middle for the bit.
>
Brian, the split fence is not what is bothering me, its the edge that
you are cutting that is off the table.
>
>>
>> Secondly, with it off, I could not put a zero clearance insert in there.
>>
>> While not necessary, it's more controllable. I realize a CNC router
>>
>> doesn't have zero clearance. But there are definitely times you need it.
>>
>>
>>
>> Brian's works, and works well, but it is a little bit of a compromise
>>
>> for this reason. In his example it makes it difficult to determine depth
>>
>> and height.
>
> Not at all. It's quite easy to determine the height. Line up your lumber in front of the bit against the table. You can see the profile that will be cut into the wood perfectly, height and depth.
>
>> If the piece lies flat on the table you know the depth and
>>
>> height.
>>
>
> There is a price reduction in the plans. $9.95
>
> Cheers!
>
>
>
>>
>>>>
>>
>>>> Sorry Brian, I didn't mean to rain on your parade. But support is
>>
>>>> everything, so is contact, its good, but not great.
>>
>>>>
>>
>>>> I have seen tilting router supports for sale, and a nice home made from
>>
>>>> Matthias. I would not use the gear that he used, but I might use the
>>
>>>> screw drive that he had, just coupled differently.
>>
>>>>
>>
>>>
>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> Jeff
>
--
Jeff
On 4/28/2013 11:50 AM, [email protected] wrote:
>
> Also - You are always going to have an opening in one of the workpiece contact planes. There is no way around this if you want your router bit to make contact with the work piece. Two contact planes (router table surface and fence) are all that is ever required to stabilize the work piece. In a normal, non-tilting fence, you still only have two contact planes and an opening for the bit. Nothing has changes but the tilt angle.
I sometimes use a zero clearance plate , and fence insert. When I am
cutting wood that tends to tearout badly. It's the only way I have found
to have repeatablility without wood loss.
My split fence has bevels in it to hold the insert.
And I bought uncut inserts for my router plate. I just cut through to
use them... No to little tearout even on wood that I found hard to cut
otherwise.
--
Jeff
On Sunday, April 28, 2013 11:55:16 AM UTC-4, woodchucker wrote:
> On 4/28/2013 11:44 AM, [email protected] wrote:
>
> > On Sunday, April 28, 2013 10:39:58 AM UTC-4, woodchucker wrote:
>
> >> On 4/28/2013 10:13 AM, willshak wrote:
>
> >>
>
> >>> On 4/27/2013 11:39 AM, woodchucker wrote:
>
> >>
>
> >>>> On 4/27/2013 2:58 AM, [email protected] wrote:
>
> >>
>
> >>>>> On Fri, 26 Apr 2013 10:52:15 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>
> >>
>
> >>>>>>> Can be made to fit almost any existing router table. Open up the
>
> >>
>
> >>>>>>> possibilities for new router profiles!
>
> >>
>
> >>>>>>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9a88f1pv6jM
>
> >>
>
> >>>>>
>
> >>
>
> >>>>>> Very cool and well thought out fence you got there Brian..... If that
>
> >>
>
> >>>>>> thing was aluminum...... you might be the next competitor with Incra!
>
> >>
>
> >>>>>
>
> >>
>
> >>>>> +1. I could see it selling very well.
>
> >>
>
> >>>>>
>
> >>
>
> >>>>
>
> >>
>
> >>>> Sorry, but I don't. I would think a tilting router base would work
>
> >>
>
> >>>> better. The gap at the bottom shows no support and that is a minus.
>
> >>
>
> >>>
>
> >>
>
> >>> How about a small chamfer on the back to lower the fence front when it's
>
> >>
>
> >>> angled?
>
> >>
>
> >>> It's for a router. How thin would the work be to be able to use a router?
>
> >>
>
> >>>
>
> >>
>
> >> It's not the fence, its the workpiece. It is off the table where it is
>
> >>
>
> >> being cut. , I would rather have the piece sitting on the table.
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Not sure why the split fence opening is bothering you, but if it makes you uncomfortable then use a solid one piece fence w/ an opening in the middle for the bit.
>
> >
>
>
>
> Brian, the split fence is not what is bothering me, its the edge that
>
> you are cutting that is off the table.
Why is this a problem? Determining the depth is a non-issue.
>
> >
>
> >>
>
> >> Secondly, with it off, I could not put a zero clearance insert in there.
>
> >>
>
> >> While not necessary, it's more controllable. I realize a CNC router
>
> >>
>
> >> doesn't have zero clearance. But there are definitely times you need it.
>
> >>
>
> >>
>
> >>
>
> >> Brian's works, and works well, but it is a little bit of a compromise
>
> >>
>
> >> for this reason. In his example it makes it difficult to determine depth
>
> >>
>
> >> and height.
>
> >
>
> > Not at all. It's quite easy to determine the height. Line up your lumber in front of the bit against the table. You can see the profile that will be cut into the wood perfectly, height and depth.
>
> >
>
> >> If the piece lies flat on the table you know the depth and
>
> >>
>
> >> height.
>
> >>
>
> >
>
> > There is a price reduction in the plans. $9.95
>
> >
>
> > Cheers!
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >>
>
> >>>>
>
> >>
>
> >>>> Sorry Brian, I didn't mean to rain on your parade. But support is
>
> >>
>
> >>>> everything, so is contact, its good, but not great.
>
> >>
>
> >>>>
>
> >>
>
> >>>> I have seen tilting router supports for sale, and a nice home made from
>
> >>
>
> >>>> Matthias. I would not use the gear that he used, but I might use the
>
> >>
>
> >>>> screw drive that he had, just coupled differently.
>
> >>
>
> >>>>
>
> >>
>
> >>>
>
> >>
>
> >>>
>
> >>
>
> >>
>
> >>
>
> >>
>
> >>
>
> >> --
>
> >>
>
> >> Jeff
>
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> Jeff
On Sat, 27 Apr 2013 11:39:15 -0400, woodchucker <[email protected]>
>> +1. I could see it selling very well.
>Sorry, but I don't. I would think a tilting router base would work
>better. The gap at the bottom shows no support and that is a minus.
All things considered, this was a prototype and a fine first effort in
my opinion. I'd expect any edition put up for sale to be mostly made
out of metal with included sacrificial fences. It would include
various judicious modifications as per your comment and others.
On 4/27/2013 11:39 AM, woodchucker wrote:
> On 4/27/2013 2:58 AM, [email protected] wrote:
>> On Fri, 26 Apr 2013 10:52:15 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>>>> Can be made to fit almost any existing router table. Open up the
>>>> possibilities for new router profiles!
>>>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9a88f1pv6jM
>>
>>> Very cool and well thought out fence you got there Brian..... If that
>>> thing was aluminum...... you might be the next competitor with Incra!
>>
>> +1. I could see it selling very well.
>>
>
> Sorry, but I don't. I would think a tilting router base would work
> better. The gap at the bottom shows no support and that is a minus.
How about a small chamfer on the back to lower the fence front when it's
angled?
It's for a router. How thin would the work be to be able to use a router?
>
> Sorry Brian, I didn't mean to rain on your parade. But support is
> everything, so is contact, its good, but not great.
>
> I have seen tilting router supports for sale, and a nice home made from
> Matthias. I would not use the gear that he used, but I might use the
> screw drive that he had, just coupled differently.
>
--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeros after @
On 4/26/2013 10:22 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> Can be made to fit almost any existing router table. Open up the possibilities for new router profiles!
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9a88f1pv6jM
>
Very cool and well thought out fence you got there Brian..... If that
thing was aluminum...... you might be the next competitor with Incra!