hi all experts out there,
what is usually used to seal mahogany wood? or is sealing necessary for
mahogany
at all?
what kind of oils are used to treat wood? usually what oil is used on
what wood, and
why?
i'm rather ingnorant about all this, but i somehow don't like stains,
wood that seems
to be treated with some kind of oil does look natural and gives a nice
feeling about
the material quality of wood to me.
advices, suggestions, views, opinions, and whatever any one cares to
tell me are all
most welcome!
Seems like you'e like someone to do it for you... :>)
"Ranger Paul" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Larry,
>
> I love quick and easy finishes that achieve good results and will last.
> Gee, how novel is that?
>
> I'm relatively new (2 years now) I've come to really like rub on satin
> poly by minwax with several coats of paste wax afterwards as a way of
> finishing. I built a jewelry box for my wife out of cherry, put on 3 coats
> of the rub on satin poly, two coats of paste wax & buffed it out and it
> looks like someone who knew what they were doing did it. :)
>
> Never heard of the "Waterlox" stuff, is it a varnish/oil, a blend of two
> or more things. You're enthusiasm with using it is makes me interested in
> hearing more about it.
>
> I've have also read (have yet to try it) more than a few articles in the
> ww mags etc that say using a combination of dye first, then stain as a
> base produces a beautiful foundation before top coating, this is something
> I was going to try next. Any thoughts on that? Anyone?
>
> I too appreciate any and all advise, I read lots of things, I have the
> book Understanding Wood Finishing by Bob Flexner that Charles recommended
> also. It seems like a good one, though it goes a bit deeper into the
> science and chemistry of how finishing works than I think I'll ever need
> to know. I would prefer something more concise that looks at lots of ways
> to finish wood but spares me the science.
>
> A book that just tells me what the pros/cons are of each approach or type
> of finish have. Just as important I would like to see illustrated,
> detailed, how to instructions on how to achieve great results. I would
> really like to see one of these books focus on how to appraoch a project
> with many sides, corners, cureved or rounded pieces, what to do first,
> second, third on a given project and how that might change as the shape or
> size of the project changes. Especially procedures with projects whose
> geometric shapes or the state of assembly they are in make it difficult to
> know just what you should do first, second etc. Also, how to store or hang
> or hold up difficult pieces so as many sices can be done at once as
> possible. And when you are finishing one side first and the opposite side
> second, how to finish up to the edge or corner without dripping on the
> part you don't want to apply any finish to yet. Is masking it ok, what
> kind of masking etc. I would like a book that addresses the physical
> logistics of finishing as much as types and procedures and techniques of
> applying finish. These things are what puzzles me most of all and Bob
> Flexner's book doesn't seem to spend much if any time explaining these
> rudimentary but absolutely necessary skils and techniques.
>
> Any books that dedicate sufficient time and space to these things I would
> love to get my hands on. Any suggestions?
>
> RangerPaul
>
> "Larry Jaques" <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> On Sat, 14 Jan 2006 22:37:57 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm,
>> Charles Krug <[email protected]> quickly quoth:
>>
>>>On 2006-01-15, [email protected] <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> hi all experts out there,
>>
>> ZZ, go pick up a quart of Waterlox Original. I degloss it with
>> 0000 steel wool and Johnson's paste wax. The oil in the Waterlox
>> highlights the grain, leaves a smooth feel, and is easy to apply.
>> Finishing (and finish) just doesn't get any better.
>>
>>
>>>Get yourself a copy of Bob Flexnor's book "Understanding Wood
>>>Finishing." Very accessable and invaluable as a reference.
>>>
>>>Ideally, you'll want to have a few offcuts handy to experiment on.
>>
>> He'd be -much- better off with Jeff Jewitt's "Hand Applied Finishes",
>> Charles.
>>
>> P.S: Flexner's name doesn't contain an "o."
>>
>>
>> ----------------------------------------------
>> Never attempt to traverse a chasm in two leaps
>> http://www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Design
>> ===========================================================
>
>
Larry,
I love quick and easy finishes that achieve good results and will last. Gee,
how novel is that?
I'm relatively new (2 years now) I've come to really like rub on satin poly
by minwax with several coats of paste wax afterwards as a way of finishing.
I built a jewelry box for my wife out of cherry, put on 3 coats of the rub
on satin poly, two coats of paste wax & buffed it out and it looks like
someone who knew what they were doing did it. :)
Never heard of the "Waterlox" stuff, is it a varnish/oil, a blend of two or
more things. You're enthusiasm with using it is makes me interested in
hearing more about it.
I've have also read (have yet to try it) more than a few articles in the ww
mags etc that say using a combination of dye first, then stain as a base
produces a beautiful foundation before top coating, this is something I was
going to try next. Any thoughts on that? Anyone?
I too appreciate any and all advise, I read lots of things, I have the book
Understanding Wood Finishing by Bob Flexner that Charles recommended also.
It seems like a good one, though it goes a bit deeper into the science and
chemistry of how finishing works than I think I'll ever need to know. I
would prefer something more concise that looks at lots of ways to finish
wood but spares me the science.
A book that just tells me what the pros/cons are of each approach or type of
finish have. Just as important I would like to see illustrated, detailed,
how to instructions on how to achieve great results. I would really like to
see one of these books focus on how to appraoch a project with many sides,
corners, cureved or rounded pieces, what to do first, second, third on a
given project and how that might change as the shape or size of the project
changes. Especially procedures with projects whose geometric shapes or the
state of assembly they are in make it difficult to know just what you should
do first, second etc. Also, how to store or hang or hold up difficult pieces
so as many sices can be done at once as possible. And when you are finishing
one side first and the opposite side second, how to finish up to the edge or
corner without dripping on the part you don't want to apply any finish to
yet. Is masking it ok, what kind of masking etc. I would like a book that
addresses the physical logistics of finishing as much as types and
procedures and techniques of applying finish. These things are what puzzles
me most of all and Bob Flexner's book doesn't seem to spend much if any time
explaining these rudimentary but absolutely necessary skils and techniques.
Any books that dedicate sufficient time and space to these things I would
love to get my hands on. Any suggestions?
RangerPaul
"Larry Jaques" <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sat, 14 Jan 2006 22:37:57 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm,
> Charles Krug <[email protected]> quickly quoth:
>
>>On 2006-01-15, [email protected] <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> hi all experts out there,
>
> ZZ, go pick up a quart of Waterlox Original. I degloss it with
> 0000 steel wool and Johnson's paste wax. The oil in the Waterlox
> highlights the grain, leaves a smooth feel, and is easy to apply.
> Finishing (and finish) just doesn't get any better.
>
>
>>Get yourself a copy of Bob Flexnor's book "Understanding Wood
>>Finishing." Very accessable and invaluable as a reference.
>>
>>Ideally, you'll want to have a few offcuts handy to experiment on.
>
> He'd be -much- better off with Jeff Jewitt's "Hand Applied Finishes",
> Charles.
>
> P.S: Flexner's name doesn't contain an "o."
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------
> Never attempt to traverse a chasm in two leaps
> http://www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Design
> ===========================================================
On Sat, 14 Jan 2006 22:37:57 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm,
Charles Krug <[email protected]> quickly quoth:
>On 2006-01-15, [email protected] <[email protected]> wrote:
>> hi all experts out there,
ZZ, go pick up a quart of Waterlox Original. I degloss it with
0000 steel wool and Johnson's paste wax. The oil in the Waterlox
highlights the grain, leaves a smooth feel, and is easy to apply.
Finishing (and finish) just doesn't get any better.
>Get yourself a copy of Bob Flexnor's book "Understanding Wood
>Finishing." Very accessable and invaluable as a reference.
>
>Ideally, you'll want to have a few offcuts handy to experiment on.
He'd be -much- better off with Jeff Jewitt's "Hand Applied Finishes",
Charles.
P.S: Flexner's name doesn't contain an "o."
----------------------------------------------
Never attempt to traverse a chasm in two leaps
http://www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Design
===========================================================
On 2006-01-15, [email protected] <[email protected]> wrote:
> hi all experts out there,
>
Get yourself a copy of Bob Flexnor's book "Understanding Wood
Finishing." Very accessable and invaluable as a reference.
Ideally, you'll want to have a few offcuts handy to experiment on.
On Sun, 15 Jan 2006 14:16:12 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm,
"Ranger Paul" <[email protected]> quickly quoth:
>Larry,
>
>I love quick and easy finishes that achieve good results and will last. Gee,
>how novel is that?
>
>I'm relatively new (2 years now) I've come to really like rub on satin poly
>by minwax with several coats of paste wax afterwards as a way of finishing.
>I built a jewelry box for my wife out of cherry, put on 3 coats of the rub
>on satin poly, two coats of paste wax & buffed it out and it looks like
>someone who knew what they were doing did it. :)
Stain and poly are their own punishment.
>Never heard of the "Waterlox" stuff, is it a varnish/oil, a blend of two or
>more things. You're enthusiasm with using it is makes me interested in
>hearing more about it.
It's a blend of tung and linseed oils combined with varnish. Quick
drying, tough, waterproof. The best stuff since sliced bread.
www.waterlox.com I use only the non-poly Original finish in medium
gloss. Because I prefer a non-glossy, touchable wood finish, I use
steel wool to degloss it to a "satin" finish.
>I've have also read (have yet to try it) more than a few articles in the ww
>mags etc that say using a combination of dye first, then stain as a base
>produces a beautiful foundation before top coating, this is something I was
>going to try next. Any thoughts on that? Anyone?
Gag me with a spoon. (I hate stains. ;)
>I too appreciate any and all advise, I read lots of things, I have the book
>Understanding Wood Finishing by Bob Flexner that Charles recommended also.
>It seems like a good one, though it goes a bit deeper into the science and
>chemistry of how finishing works than I think I'll ever need to know. I
>would prefer something more concise that looks at lots of ways to finish
>wood but spares me the science.
Take a look at Jewitt's "Hand Applied Finishes", too. I read those two
and Dresdner's "Woodfinishing Book" (now replaced by the New
Woodfinishing Book) but the only one I really liked was Jewitt's.
All contained good info but Jeff's was the most complete to me.
>Also, how to store or hang or hold up difficult pieces
>so as many sices can be done at once as possible.
Build one or both of these:
1) A finishing/assembly table on casters.
2) A pair of 123 boxes. They're 1' by 2' by 3' and will give you
platforms 1, 2, or 3' tall when you lay a piece of MDF or plywood
over them. Adjust them to the height you want to work around, like
12x18x28" or something.
--And remember the first and last rule of finishing, Paul.--
NEVER, EVER RUSH A FINISH.
It's the quickest way to totally ruin a piece you've slaved over,
nursed, and babied for days/weeks/months. (Or in my case, years. ;)
Tell your client/friend/spouse to go sit on their hands until you say
the project is ready for use. Do the finish, wait 1 or more days
between coats for curing time (depending upon the finish) and then let
it set a week or more before taking it into the house. Finishes need
time to breathe and offgas and cure. Rushing it will end up with a
tablecloth stuck to the table, ruining the finish. Or there will be
complaints about the stinky finish, chemical smells, etc.
Just say "NO!"
----------------------------------------------
Never attempt to traverse a chasm in two leaps
http://www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Design
===========================================================
On 14 Jan 2006 20:05:40 -0800, [email protected] wrote:
>advices, suggestions, views, opinions, and whatever any one cares to
>tell me are all
>most welcome!
Homework:
<http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0762106212/qid=1137328602/sr=1-1/ref=sr_1_1/002-9686129-5087222?s=books&v=glance&n=283155>
or:
<http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1561585920/ref=pd_sim_b_3/002-9686129-5087222?%5Fencoding=UTF8&v=glance&n=283155>
Both are terrific, updated in 2005, and will answer many, many
questions. You can also run the ISBN numbers through your local
library computers and read them for free. At least one of them
(either one) should be a permanent reference in your shop.
Other advice? Practice on scrap! It sounds lame, but nothing beats a
few bucks worth of materials and some time to really get the hang of
things. If you haven't practiced on a test board, you're
experimenting on your project.
Have fun,
Barry