I'm building up my tool collections, much of it from the ground up as I have
just moved into a house and now have room.
The time has come to purchase a good set of drill bits. My first question
is this: Are the craftsman pro zirconium nitrate coated bits at least of a
mid grade quality? Reason I ask is, the combo kits that Craftsman Pro has
offer a lot of the bits/accessories and common drill sizes I want, and the
benefit of the quick-change type system. However, I'm not going to invest
into a large kit if the bits are poor quality.
Next question is, I want to get a good set of drills that will be good for
general use on wood and light metals. I'd like something that will last,
and I also plan to get a drill doctor to keep bits sharp. With that in
mind, do I go with cobalt bits? They seem to be most highly recommended as
Cobalt bits are actually an alloy in the steel and make them stronger than a
standard HSS set. Would I benefit from a TiN coated Cobalt set?
What manufacturer makes quality sets of drill bits? As many others have
set, TiN/Zirc/whatever coating on crap, is still a crap drill bit. I want
to invest my money in quality bits.
Thanks!
Evan Mann wrote:
> Cannot honestly say for sure, but the quick change bits have a hexagonal
> shaped base that fits into a hexagonal shaped collars. Because of that,
> one would think the bit holders better thanm a standard circular shaft in
> a drill shank. But again, not sure.
A good Jacobs chuck properly tightened (ie with a chuck key, not a keyless
chuck) will hold a lot more torque than one of those quick change jobs. If
you put enough torque on it, the hex socket will break. They're
convenient, but not strong, IME.
OTOH, if you chuck a hex shanked bit directly into a Jacobs chuck it will
take more torque than a round shank. I had to grind flats onto a gigantic
auger used for digging bulb holes. I have a high torque drill that can
tear through the hardest ground with that thing, but it was spinning around
the shank something fierce. (Now it justs tries to break my wrists when it
hits a rock... :)
Anyway, I think "good" and "quick change" are probably mutually exclusive
concepts. Those things are gimmicky light duty stuff. I wouldn't expect a
lot of performance. It really depends on what you'll be doing with them
though.
I think for me, my next set of bits will be a cheap to mid-priced 100+ piece
set in an indexed case, to include all the in between sizes I'm constantly
doing without. What I use currently are Bosch, but when I break one, I
just replace it with whatever's handy. I haven't found brand name to mean
all that much with bits.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
"Steve James" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:1g493ln.6cv3lbvczkaN%[email protected]...
> Evan Mann <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > Also, how bout some brand names to avoid or try and obtain?
>
> The HSS (High speed steel) brad point bits from Lee Valley are very
> nice! The sell various size sets and individual bits. The are the best
> bits I have for drilling wood. Save your twist points for metal. They
> wander too much in wood and don't make nearly as smooth a hole.
>
> --
> To email me use: sjusenet AT comcast DOT net
And - (see thread above) - they're "Made in USA"...
We use "Triumph" brand twist drills (Precision Twist Drill Co.) and re-grind
the tips on a $500,000 swiss CNC grinder....
Cheers -
Rob Lee
Evan Mann <[email protected]> wrote:
> Also, how bout some brand names to avoid or try and obtain?
The HSS (High speed steel) brad point bits from Lee Valley are very
nice! The sell various size sets and individual bits. The are the best
bits I have for drilling wood. Save your twist points for metal. They
wander too much in wood and don't make nearly as smooth a hole.
--
To email me use: sjusenet AT comcast DOT net
Evan Mann wrote:
> ....and the benefit of the quick-change type system.
Question: Do these quick change systems really hold the bits tight?
In wood it may not matter much but in metal it could be a real PITA.
--
Mark
N.E. Ohio
Never argue with a fool, a bystander can't tell you apart. (S. Clemens,
A.K.A. Mark Twain)
When in doubt hit the throttle. It may not help but it sure ends the
suspense. (Gaz, r.moto)
Silvan <[email protected]> writes:
>take more torque than a round shank. I had to grind flats onto a gigantic
>auger used for digging bulb holes. I have a high torque drill that can
we have one of those (it's come in quite handy for the 5000+ bulbs
we've planted... not to mention the 1300 pansys we planted last week)
I hammered out the shank to have flats for getting rid of the spin
out.
>(Now it justs tries to break my wrists when it hits a rock... :)
yup... has alot of torque. (pennsylvania clay, rocks, and tree roots
to contend with in my yard) My problem is with the shank itself bending.
Where did you get yours? Perhaps it's of heavier duty. (the packaging
on http://cj.catalogcity.com/cc.class/cc?pcd=3373016&ccsyn=22 looks familiar)
I wouldn't mind having a backup ready when I finally get sick of
trying to straighten this one.
--
be safe.
flip
Verso l'esterno! Verso l'esterno! Deamons di ignoranza.
"Evan Mann" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
<snip>
: The time has come to purchase a good set of drill bits.
<snip>
I want to get a good set of drills that will be good for
: general use on wood and light metals.
<snip>
They're becoming hard to find, but the Black & Decker Bullet Point drill
bits are one heck of a value -- you get a very good quality bit combined
with the brad point for non-skid hole starting.
They're being repackaged as "DeWalt" bits now and the price tag is
super-inflated accordingly. It might take some digging, but you can still
find them in the B&D black and orange packages. When you do, snap them up!
You won't regret having them.
"Evan Mann" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I'm building up my tool collections, much of it from the ground up as I have
> just moved into a house and now have room.
>
> The time has come to purchase a good set of drill bits. My first question
> is this: Are the craftsman pro zirconium nitrate coated bits at least of a
> mid grade quality? Reason I ask is, the combo kits that Craftsman Pro has
> offer a lot of the bits/accessories and common drill sizes I want, and the
> benefit of the quick-change type system. However, I'm not going to invest
> into a large kit if the bits are poor quality.
>
> Next question is, I want to get a good set of drills that will be good for
> general use on wood and light metals. I'd like something that will last,
> and I also plan to get a drill doctor to keep bits sharp. With that in
> mind, do I go with cobalt bits? They seem to be most highly recommended as
> Cobalt bits are actually an alloy in the steel and make them stronger than a
> standard HSS set. Would I benefit from a TiN coated Cobalt set?
>
> What manufacturer makes quality sets of drill bits? As many others have
> set, TiN/Zirc/whatever coating on crap, is still a crap drill bit. I want
> to invest my money in quality bits.
>
> Thanks!
While many here will disagree with me, my recommendation is to buy one
of those $40 115 bit sets (supposedly HSS). The 115 bit set gives you
all the various bits that you MIGHT use once a year but come in real
handy when needed. As you use them and wear a few of the more often
used ones out, replace them with good bits. Over a little time you end
up with a set that matches your actual needs and usage pattern. In
addition, I think you would want a good brad point set and a forstner
set.
Again, just my opinion and what works for me.
Dave Hall
Evan Mann wrote:
> Next question is, I want to get a good set of drills that will be good for
> general use on wood and light metals. I'd like something that will last,
> and I also plan to get a drill doctor to keep bits sharp. With that in
I've found that I _greatly_ prefer different bits for metal and wood.
Standard twist-drills are great for metal, but even the best, sharpest
brands leave messy holes in wood. A cheap 40pc set of brad-point bits
from HF are _much_ better, IMO.
--
************************************
Chris Merrill
[email protected]
(remove the ZZZ to contact me)
************************************
Evan Mann wrote:
> I'm building up my tool collections, much of it from the ground up as I have
> just moved into a house and now have room.
>
> The time has come to purchase a good set of drill bits. My first question
> is this: Are the craftsman pro zirconium nitrate coated bits at least of a
> mid grade quality? Reason I ask is, the combo kits that Craftsman Pro has
> offer a lot of the bits/accessories and common drill sizes I want, and the
> benefit of the quick-change type system. However, I'm not going to invest
> into a large kit if the bits are poor quality.
>
> Next question is, I want to get a good set of drills that will be good for
> general use on wood and light metals. I'd like something that will last,
> and I also plan to get a drill doctor to keep bits sharp. With that in
> mind, do I go with cobalt bits? They seem to be most highly recommended as
> Cobalt bits are actually an alloy in the steel and make them stronger than a
> standard HSS set. Would I benefit from a TiN coated Cobalt set?
>
> What manufacturer makes quality sets of drill bits? As many others have
> set, TiN/Zirc/whatever coating on crap, is still a crap drill bit. I want
> to invest my money in quality bits.
>
> Thanks!
>
>
>
A good quality TiN coated HSS set will give you the most
bang for the buck. You don't need cobalt unless you are
drilling some particularly hard or nasty metal.
I don't know Craftsmen drill bits, but asssuming they are
like most Craftsman products, they will be passable but you
can do better from a tool supply house.
Unless you are going to be drilling a -lot- of steel, some
harder than mild steel, I don't see any reason to go above
mid quality HSS bits unless you just want tool snob bragging
rights. Particularly with a Drill Doctor in house.
Rico
-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
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Cannot honestly say for sure, but the quick change bits have a hexagonal
shaped base that fits into a hexagonal shaped collars. Because of that, one
would think the bit holders better thanm a standard circular shaft in a
drill shank. But again, not sure.
I'm going to have a nice set of standard bits aside from the quick change
systems. The quick change are good probably 95% of the time for what I'll
do, and just make it easy. But bit sizes are limited compared to regular
bits.
"Mark" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> Evan Mann wrote:
>
>
> > ....and the benefit of the quick-change type system.
>
>
>
> Question: Do these quick change systems really hold the bits tight?
>
> In wood it may not matter much but in metal it could be a real PITA.
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> Mark
>
> N.E. Ohio
>
>
> Never argue with a fool, a bystander can't tell you apart. (S. Clemens,
> A.K.A. Mark Twain)
>
> When in doubt hit the throttle. It may not help but it sure ends the
> suspense. (Gaz, r.moto)
>
>
But in wood, it should not matter. Twist drills make such a mess
compared to a mutispur forstner or brad bit. I bought a cheap carbide
set of brad bits and they have given me much joy! One of the only
times I bought cheap and did well. Would not mind moving up though.
On Mon, 10 Nov 2003 20:37:50 +0000 (UTC), [email protected]
(Henry E Schaffer) wrote:
>In article <[email protected]>,
>Evan Mann <[email protected]> wrote:
>>... With that in mind, do I go with cobalt bits? They seem to be most
>>highly recommended as Cobalt bits are actually an alloy in the steel
>>and make them stronger than a standard HSS set. ...
>
> In my experience the cobalt bits are much more brittle than HSS bits.
>DAMHIKT So, I'd avoid them.
>Evan Mann wrote:
>> Next question is, I want to get a good set of drills that will be good for
>> general use on wood and light metals. I'd like something that will last,
>> and I also plan to get a drill doctor to keep bits sharp. With that in
>
>I've found that I _greatly_ prefer different bits for metal and wood.
>Standard twist-drills are great for metal, but even the best, sharpest
>brands leave messy holes in wood. A cheap 40pc set of brad-point bits
>from HF are _much_ better, IMO.
Absolutely!!
In article <[email protected]>,
Evan Mann <[email protected]> wrote:
>... With that in mind, do I go with cobalt bits? They seem to be most
>highly recommended as Cobalt bits are actually an alloy in the steel
>and make them stronger than a standard HSS set. ...
In my experience the cobalt bits are much more brittle than HSS bits.
DAMHIKT So, I'd avoid them.
--
--henry schaffer
[email protected]
All the tin/copbalt/zirconium bits are coated- on the outside. I like
Hitachi,Porter Cable and Bosch-stay away from Vermont American,
Mibro(?), Columbine unless you want a selection and not good bits-in
my opinion.
On Mon, 10 Nov 2003 03:06:52 GMT, "Evan Mann" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I'm building up my tool collections, much of it from the ground up as I have
>just moved into a house and now have room.
>
>The time has come to purchase a good set of drill bits. My first question
>is this: Are the craftsman pro zirconium nitrate coated bits at least of a
>mid grade quality? Reason I ask is, the combo kits that Craftsman Pro has
>offer a lot of the bits/accessories and common drill sizes I want, and the
>benefit of the quick-change type system. However, I'm not going to invest
>into a large kit if the bits are poor quality.
>
>Next question is, I want to get a good set of drills that will be good for
>general use on wood and light metals. I'd like something that will last,
>and I also plan to get a drill doctor to keep bits sharp. With that in
>mind, do I go with cobalt bits? They seem to be most highly recommended as
>Cobalt bits are actually an alloy in the steel and make them stronger than a
>standard HSS set. Would I benefit from a TiN coated Cobalt set?
>
>What manufacturer makes quality sets of drill bits? As many others have
>set, TiN/Zirc/whatever coating on crap, is still a crap drill bit. I want
>to invest my money in quality bits.
>
>Thanks!
>
Philip Edward Lewis wrote:
>>(Now it justs tries to break my wrists when it hits a rock... :)
> yup... has alot of torque. (pennsylvania clay, rocks, and tree roots
> to contend with in my yard) My problem is with the shank itself bending.
> Where did you get yours? Perhaps it's of heavier duty. (the packaging
> on http://cj.catalogcity.com/cc.class/cc?pcd=3373016&ccsyn=22 looks
> familiar)
I got mine at Lowe's I think. It's painted red. I can't offer you any good
answer to the bending problem, because I've had to whack on mine many times
to try to straighten the stupid thing out.
Having a high torque 7 amp drill has really helped because I don't have to
push on it to get it to go, but I've bent it a time or two since getting
that drill. Especially the time I wrapped a good two feet of chain link
fence around it. Oops. :)
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
I find myself using brad points most of the time on wood. I like nice
neat holes in my wood.
On 10 Nov 2003 12:05:57 -0800, [email protected] (David Hall)
wrote:
>"Evan Mann" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
>> I'm building up my tool collections, much of it from the ground up as I have
>> just moved into a house and now have room.
>>
>> The time has come to purchase a good set of drill bits. My first question
>> is this: Are the craftsman pro zirconium nitrate coated bits at least of a
>> mid grade quality? Reason I ask is, the combo kits that Craftsman Pro has
>> offer a lot of the bits/accessories and common drill sizes I want, and the
>> benefit of the quick-change type system. However, I'm not going to invest
>> into a large kit if the bits are poor quality.
>>
>> Next question is, I want to get a good set of drills that will be good for
>> general use on wood and light metals. I'd like something that will last,
>> and I also plan to get a drill doctor to keep bits sharp. With that in
>> mind, do I go with cobalt bits? They seem to be most highly recommended as
>> Cobalt bits are actually an alloy in the steel and make them stronger than a
>> standard HSS set. Would I benefit from a TiN coated Cobalt set?
>>
>> What manufacturer makes quality sets of drill bits? As many others have
>> set, TiN/Zirc/whatever coating on crap, is still a crap drill bit. I want
>> to invest my money in quality bits.
>>
>> Thanks!
>
>
>While many here will disagree with me, my recommendation is to buy one
>of those $40 115 bit sets (supposedly HSS). The 115 bit set gives you
>all the various bits that you MIGHT use once a year but come in real
>handy when needed. As you use them and wear a few of the more often
>used ones out, replace them with good bits. Over a little time you end
>up with a set that matches your actual needs and usage pattern. In
>addition, I think you would want a good brad point set and a forstner
>set.
>
>Again, just my opinion and what works for me.
>
>Dave Hall
For get the brand names and get drill bits that are made of High Speed
Steel. Tin coating is nice but not worth a lot for wood. Just make sure
that the bits are High Speed Steel. Sears, Vermont American etc are work
well. IMHO
"Lawrence A. Ramsey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> All the tin/copbalt/zirconium bits are coated- on the outside. I like
> Hitachi,Porter Cable and Bosch-stay away from Vermont American,
> Mibro(?), Columbine unless you want a selection and not good bits-in
> my opinion.
>
> On Mon, 10 Nov 2003 03:06:52 GMT, "Evan Mann" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >I'm building up my tool collections, much of it from the ground up as I
have
> >just moved into a house and now have room.
> >
> >The time has come to purchase a good set of drill bits. My first
question
> >is this: Are the craftsman pro zirconium nitrate coated bits at least of
a
> >mid grade quality? Reason I ask is, the combo kits that Craftsman Pro
has
> >offer a lot of the bits/accessories and common drill sizes I want, and
the
> >benefit of the quick-change type system. However, I'm not going to
invest
> >into a large kit if the bits are poor quality.
> >
> >Next question is, I want to get a good set of drills that will be good
for
> >general use on wood and light metals. I'd like something that will last,
> >and I also plan to get a drill doctor to keep bits sharp. With that in
> >mind, do I go with cobalt bits? They seem to be most highly recommended
as
> >Cobalt bits are actually an alloy in the steel and make them stronger
than a
> >standard HSS set. Would I benefit from a TiN coated Cobalt set?
> >
> >What manufacturer makes quality sets of drill bits? As many others have
> >set, TiN/Zirc/whatever coating on crap, is still a crap drill bit. I
want
> >to invest my money in quality bits.
> >
> >Thanks!
> >
>
Are brad points the same as pilot points that I see sold under the Dewalt
name (and others), or is that something else?
Also, how bout some brand names to avoid or try and obtain?
Thanks again.
Evan
"Lawrence A. Ramsey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I find myself using brad points most of the time on wood. I like nice
> neat holes in my wood.
>
>
> On 10 Nov 2003 12:05:57 -0800, [email protected] (David Hall)
> wrote:
>
> >"Evan Mann" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> >> I'm building up my tool collections, much of it from the ground up as I
have
> >> just moved into a house and now have room.
> >>
> >> The time has come to purchase a good set of drill bits. My first
question
> >> is this: Are the craftsman pro zirconium nitrate coated bits at least
of a
> >> mid grade quality? Reason I ask is, the combo kits that Craftsman Pro
has
> >> offer a lot of the bits/accessories and common drill sizes I want, and
the
> >> benefit of the quick-change type system. However, I'm not going to
invest
> >> into a large kit if the bits are poor quality.
> >>
> >> Next question is, I want to get a good set of drills that will be good
for
> >> general use on wood and light metals. I'd like something that will
last,
> >> and I also plan to get a drill doctor to keep bits sharp. With that in
> >> mind, do I go with cobalt bits? They seem to be most highly
recommended as
> >> Cobalt bits are actually an alloy in the steel and make them stronger
than a
> >> standard HSS set. Would I benefit from a TiN coated Cobalt set?
> >>
> >> What manufacturer makes quality sets of drill bits? As many others
have
> >> set, TiN/Zirc/whatever coating on crap, is still a crap drill bit. I
want
> >> to invest my money in quality bits.
> >>
> >> Thanks!
> >
> >
> >While many here will disagree with me, my recommendation is to buy one
> >of those $40 115 bit sets (supposedly HSS). The 115 bit set gives you
> >all the various bits that you MIGHT use once a year but come in real
> >handy when needed. As you use them and wear a few of the more often
> >used ones out, replace them with good bits. Over a little time you end
> >up with a set that matches your actual needs and usage pattern. In
> >addition, I think you would want a good brad point set and a forstner
> >set.
> >
> >Again, just my opinion and what works for me.
> >
> >Dave Hall
>
>
Chris Merrill <[email protected]> writes:
> Evan Mann wrote:
>> Next question is, I want to get a good set of drills that will be good for
>> general use on wood and light metals. I'd like something that will last,
>> and I also plan to get a drill doctor to keep bits sharp. With that in
>
> I've found that I _greatly_ prefer different bits for metal and wood.
> Standard twist-drills are great for metal, but even the best, sharpest
> brands leave messy holes in wood. A cheap 40pc set of brad-point bits
> from HF are _much_ better, IMO.
Not always, i have drilled very clean holes in (hard) woods with old
large diameter (24mm) bits which were meant for metal.
--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23
Silvan <[email protected]> writes:
> Evan Mann wrote:
>
>> Cannot honestly say for sure, but the quick change bits have a hexagonal
>> shaped base that fits into a hexagonal shaped collars. Because of that,
>> one would think the bit holders better thanm a standard circular shaft in
>> a drill shank. But again, not sure.
>
> A good Jacobs chuck properly tightened (ie with a chuck key, not a keyless
> chuck) will hold a lot more torque than one of those quick change jobs. If
> you put enough torque on it, the hex socket will break. They're
> convenient, but not strong, IME.
When you really need torque, for example for large (>10mm) bits for
steel you usually do not have an ordinary chuck at all but just a
morse cone, so the bit is held by friction only in a true quick-change
way, and that works very well.
--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23