Avoid sanding so aggressively. Just what are you sanding, the raised
wood fibers, nibs and such? To avoid as many nibs, like raised wood
fibers, wipe your piece with just alcohol first, to get those nibs to
rise, then sand them. Repeat this process if need be. This way,
there won't be so many to sand after applying the dye stain.
Beyond the nibs and such, the stained piece should, ideally, not need
to be sanded.
Sonny
On Jan 16, 6:32=A0pm, Ferd Farkel <[email protected]> wrote:
> Black, liquid dye, on maple. =A0Any way to get it soaked in deeply
> enough --
> 1/16" or so -- that light sanding won't burn through it?
Look here for an even better method of ebonizing
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/Ebonizing_Wood/
On Jan 17, 8:04=A0am, tiredofspam <nospam.nospam.com> wrote:
> Nice table.
> Curious, did you turn the legs on a lathe, or do them by hand or router
> table?
>
Well... he said sheepishly... this was a kit from Bartleys
Collections.
I bough the kit as part of my competitive research; I am going int the
kit business hopefully. Then I wanted to do a real world test of a
curly maple finish I have been working on. So I built the kit to
testthe finish on a real piece. So I am super happy and proud of the
finish but all the milling was done by the guys as www.bartleycollection.co=
m
Nice table.
Curious, did you turn the legs on a lathe, or do them by hand or router
table?
On 1/16/2011 11:25 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> On Jan 16, 6:32 pm, Ferd Farkel<[email protected]> wrote:
>> Black, liquid dye, on maple. Any way to get it soaked in deeply
>> enough --
>> 1/16" or so -- that light sanding won't burn through it?
>
> Maple doesn't like to take color. I do a full strength wash of
> transtint black on curly maple as a first step to excentuate the
> figure. It takes very little hand sanding to get it back to mostly
> white maple. Infact you can see some samples here of one project that
> used that technique. I use water as a base but it is the same story
> for alcohol.
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/Colonial-Curly-Maple-Side-Table-occasional-table-/150549406244?pt=Antiques_Furniture&hash=item230d71a224
>
> Very proud of this finish by the way.
>
> What are you trying to accomplish?
On Jan 17, 12:51=A0pm, "SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote:
> > Black stain that doesn't muddy the grain, that shows off PVC
> > resin inlay. =A0Transtint in water doesn't stick to plastic as much
> > as Transtint in alcohol (good), but the color on maple is more
> > red-black than black-black (not so good). =A0Still have a few
> > inor bugs to work out.- Hide quoted text -
>
> You can do second coats and it will darken. The color will look very
> different once you apply some lacquer or shellac or whatever.
> Dramaticially different. Dye colors always look like a mistake, dull,
> gray, flat until you hitthem with some film finish or oil. Then they
> pop!
>
> You might look into ebonizing. One method to do this is to dissolve
> steel wool in vinegar. Do a google on ebonizing. Here is one resulthttp:/=
/www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Ebonizing_Wood.html
Tried it. Works okay, but Transtint black looks a _lot_
deeper, results are much more predictable.
On Jan 16, 9:49=A0pm, Ferd Farkel <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Jan 16, 11:25=A0pm, "SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Jan 16, 6:32=A0pm, Ferd Farkel <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > > Black, liquid dye, on maple. =A0Any way to get it soaked in deeply
> > > enough --
> > > 1/16" or so -- that light sanding won't burn through it?
>
> > Maple doesn't like to take color. I do a full strength wash of
> > transtint black on curly maple as a first step to excentuate the
> > figure. It takes very little hand sanding to get it back to mostly
> > white maple. Infact you can see some samples here of one project that
> > used that technique. I use water as a base but it is the same story
> > for alcohol.
>
> >http://cgi.ebay.com/Colonial-Curly-Maple-Side-Table-occasional-table-...
>
> > Very proud of this finish by the way.
>
> Nice, good to see someone shooting for depth.
>
> > What are you trying to accomplish?
>
> Black stain that doesn't muddy the grain, that shows off PVC
> resin inlay. =A0Transtint in water doesn't stick to plastic as much
> as Transtint in alcohol (good), but the color on maple is more
> red-black than black-black (not so good). =A0Still have a few
> minor bugs to work out.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
On Jan 16, 6:32=A0pm, Ferd Farkel <[email protected]> wrote:
> Black, liquid dye, on maple. =A0Any way to get it soaked in deeply
> enough --
> 1/16" or so -- that light sanding won't burn through it?
Maple doesn't like to take color. I do a full strength wash of
transtint black on curly maple as a first step to excentuate the
figure. It takes very little hand sanding to get it back to mostly
white maple. Infact you can see some samples here of one project that
used that technique. I use water as a base but it is the same story
for alcohol.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Colonial-Curly-Maple-Side-Table-occasional-table-/15054=
9406244?pt=3DAntiques_Furniture&hash=3Ditem230d71a224
Very proud of this finish by the way.
What are you trying to accomplish?
> Black stain that doesn't muddy the grain, that shows off PVC
> resin inlay. =A0Transtint in water doesn't stick to plastic as much
> as Transtint in alcohol (good), but the color on maple is more
> red-black than black-black (not so good). =A0Still have a few
> inor bugs to work out.- Hide quoted text -
You can do second coats and it will darken. The color will look very
different once you apply some lacquer or shellac or whatever.
Dramaticially different. Dye colors always look like a mistake, dull,
gray, flat until you hitthem with some film finish or oil. Then they
pop!
You might look into ebonizing. One method to do this is to dissolve
steel wool in vinegar. Do a google on ebonizing. Here is one result
http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Ebonizing_Wood.html
On Jan 16, 11:25=A0pm, "SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Jan 16, 6:32=A0pm, Ferd Farkel <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > Black, liquid dye, on maple. =A0Any way to get it soaked in deeply
> > enough --
> > 1/16" or so -- that light sanding won't burn through it?
>
> Maple doesn't like to take color. I do a full strength wash of
> transtint black on curly maple as a first step to excentuate the
> figure. It takes very little hand sanding to get it back to mostly
> white maple. Infact you can see some samples here of one project that
> used that technique. I use water as a base but it is the same story
> for alcohol.
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/Colonial-Curly-Maple-Side-Table-occasional-table-...
>
> Very proud of this finish by the way.
Nice, good to see someone shooting for depth.
> What are you trying to accomplish?
Black stain that doesn't muddy the grain, that shows off PVC
resin inlay. Transtint in water doesn't stick to plastic as much
as Transtint in alcohol (good), but the color on maple is more
red-black than black-black (not so good). Still have a few
minor bugs to work out.