Hi everyone I am having a problem with resawing wood and think I have ruined
2 bandsaw blades. What I am doing is resawing 2X4's into 1/2 inch thick
pieces. The bandsaw is a 14" Jet. After sawing about 6-7 2X4s the blade
does not want to cut straight anymore. If I remove the fence and cut
freehand the blade wants to lead right to left badly, about a 20-30 degree
line from straight, when the blade was new the lead angle was very slight.
The first blade that got ruined was a WoodSlicer fro Highland Hardware and
the 2nd was a 3/4" 4tpi Delta. I have tried to check the alginment of the
guides and the blade tracking, but no amout of fiddling seems to change the
condition. If i feel the teeth on the blade it seems sharp?
Am I expecting too much life out of the blades? This does not seem like a
lot of useage to dull the blade. Am I doing something wrong here? Any help
would be appreciated!
Make sure the set of the tooth is clear (out front) of the guides.
"JMartin957" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> >
> >Hi everyone I am having a problem with resawing wood and think I have
ruined
> >2 bandsaw blades. What I am doing is resawing 2X4's into 1/2 inch thick
> >pieces. The bandsaw is a 14" Jet. After sawing about 6-7 2X4s the blade
> >does not want to cut straight anymore. If I remove the fence and cut
> >freehand the blade wants to lead right to left badly, about a 20-30
degree
> >line from straight, when the blade was new the lead angle was very
slight.
> >The first blade that got ruined was a WoodSlicer fro Highland Hardware
and
> >the 2nd was a 3/4" 4tpi Delta. I have tried to check the alginment of
the
> >guides and the blade tracking, but no amout of fiddling seems to change
the
> >condition. If i feel the teeth on the blade it seems sharp?
> >Am I expecting too much life out of the blades? This does not seem like a
> >lot of useage to dull the blade. Am I doing something wrong here? Any
help
> >would be appreciated!
> >
>
> Most bandsaw blades will lead one way or the other, but that is way too
much.
> Resawing 6-7 2x4s should be nothing for a good blade.
>
> If by leading from right to left you mean that the blade wants to cut in
> towards the column, you've taken the set or edge off the outside of the
blade.
> Could be rubbing in a few places. I'd check the guides first.
>
> John Martin
>
>Hi everyone I am having a problem with resawing wood and think I have ruined
>2 bandsaw blades. What I am doing is resawing 2X4's into 1/2 inch thick
>pieces. The bandsaw is a 14" Jet. After sawing about 6-7 2X4s the blade
>does not want to cut straight anymore. If I remove the fence and cut
>freehand the blade wants to lead right to left badly, about a 20-30 degree
>line from straight, when the blade was new the lead angle was very slight.
>The first blade that got ruined was a WoodSlicer fro Highland Hardware and
>the 2nd was a 3/4" 4tpi Delta. I have tried to check the alginment of the
>guides and the blade tracking, but no amout of fiddling seems to change the
>condition. If i feel the teeth on the blade it seems sharp?
>Am I expecting too much life out of the blades? This does not seem like a
>lot of useage to dull the blade. Am I doing something wrong here? Any help
>would be appreciated!
>
Most bandsaw blades will lead one way or the other, but that is way too much.
Resawing 6-7 2x4s should be nothing for a good blade.
If by leading from right to left you mean that the blade wants to cut in
towards the column, you've taken the set or edge off the outside of the blade.
Could be rubbing in a few places. I'd check the guides first.
John Martin
It still sounds to me like you don't have your cool blocks adjusted
correctly. Do you? They will hold it to a lot closer tolerance than
that.
On Sun, 02 Nov 2003 22:41:11 GMT, "Dan" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Hi everyone I am having a problem with resawing wood and think I have ruined
>2 bandsaw blades. What I am doing is resawing 2X4's into 1/2 inch thick
>pieces. The bandsaw is a 14" Jet. After sawing about 6-7 2X4s the blade
>does not want to cut straight anymore. If I remove the fence and cut
>freehand the blade wants to lead right to left badly, about a 20-30 degree
>line from straight, when the blade was new the lead angle was very slight.
>The first blade that got ruined was a WoodSlicer fro Highland Hardware and
>the 2nd was a 3/4" 4tpi Delta. I have tried to check the alginment of the
>guides and the blade tracking, but no amout of fiddling seems to change the
>condition. If i feel the teeth on the blade it seems sharp?
>Am I expecting too much life out of the blades? This does not seem like a
>lot of useage to dull the blade. Am I doing something wrong here? Any help
>would be appreciated!
>
>
Dan wrote:
> Am I expecting too much life out of the blades? This does not seem like a
> lot of useage to dull the blade. Am I doing something wrong here? Any help
> would be appreciated!
By chance, did these blades happen to hit the blade guard? On a 14" saw there's
not a lot of clearance between the teeth of a 3/4" blade and the front of the
guard.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
Keep the blade clean. You're cutting extremely resinous knots and pockets,
I'm sure. Increased resin on one side equals drag, equals the same blade
movement as loss of set and unequal cool block (get ceramic) gap.
I like some WD40 on a rag, power off, hand rotate blade in reverse to clean
the gum off. Lubes the blocks, too.
"Howard Ruttan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Lawrence A. Ramsey" wrote ...
> > It still sounds to me like you don't have your cool blocks adjusted
> > correctly. Do you? They will hold it to a lot closer tolerance than
> > that.
>
> Check you tension too. I find those Delta blades to be especially cheap
and
> soft and if you leave the tension on while the saw is not in use they can
> get stretched and then they tend to wander around. I have resawed with
them
> in the past and I found that you have to heap a little extra tension on to
> keep them taught so they cut straight. The Woodslicer blade I can't
comment
> on, but the Delta blade should give you more life than that. I also
second
> the comments about the cool blocks. Have you tried making your own out of
> hardwood?
>
> http://www.inthewoodshop.org/methods/wwc03n.shtml
"Lawrence A. Ramsey" wrote ...
> It still sounds to me like you don't have your cool blocks adjusted
> correctly. Do you? They will hold it to a lot closer tolerance than
> that.
Check you tension too. I find those Delta blades to be especially cheap and
soft and if you leave the tension on while the saw is not in use they can
get stretched and then they tend to wander around. I have resawed with them
in the past and I found that you have to heap a little extra tension on to
keep them taught so they cut straight. The Woodslicer blade I can't comment
on, but the Delta blade should give you more life than that. I also second
the comments about the cool blocks. Have you tried making your own out of
hardwood?
http://www.inthewoodshop.org/methods/wwc03n.shtml
--
Cheers,
Howard
----------------------------------------------------------
Working wood in New Jersey - [email protected]
Visit me in the woodshop - www.inthewoodshop.org
On Sun 02 Nov 2003 05:05:03p, "Bill Rittner" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:r4gpb.118854$0Z5.13375@lakeread03:
> Check that the blades are running in the center of the tires. On a 14"
> bandsaw if you let a 3/4" blade come forward enough to run on the
> metal rim of the wheel you remove the set and ruin the blade. This is
> why I only use 1/2" blades. It prevents this from happening and as
> most of you already know I am cheap :-) From your description it
> sounds like you have lost the tooth set from the inside of the blades.
> I have a 1/2" Timber Wolf blade I have been using to resaw for more
> than 2 years on a 12" Craftsman and it still cuts true.
>
That's just what I'm thinking too. Instead of checking to see if the teeth
feel sharp, I think maybe you should check to see if the "set" is the same
on both sides. If one side of the blade made contact with the metal wheel
instead of the tire, even for only a few revolutions, the teeth on that
side would be pushed just about straight. I know that would make the blade
want to veer sharply, but I can't remember now which way. I think it would
want to wander towards the side that still had the proper set, but I don't
think I'd bet on that.
Dan
Check that the blades are running in the center of the tires. On a 14"
bandsaw if you let a 3/4" blade come forward enough to run on the metal rim
of the wheel you remove the set and ruin the blade. This is why I only use
1/2" blades. It prevents this from happening and as most of you already know
I am cheap :-) From your description it sounds like you have lost the tooth
set from the inside of the blades. I have a 1/2" Timber Wolf blade I have
been using to resaw for more than 2 years on a 12" Craftsman and it still
cuts true.
--
Bill Rittner
R & B ENTERPRISES
[email protected]
"Don't take this life too seriously.......nobody
gets out alive" (Unknown)
Remove "no" to reply
"Dan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi everyone I am having a problem with resawing wood and think I have
ruined
> 2 bandsaw blades. What I am doing is resawing 2X4's into 1/2 inch thick
> pieces. The bandsaw is a 14" Jet. After sawing about 6-7 2X4s the blade
> does not want to cut straight anymore. If I remove the fence and cut
> freehand the blade wants to lead right to left badly, about a 20-30 degree
> line from straight, when the blade was new the lead angle was very slight.
> The first blade that got ruined was a WoodSlicer fro Highland Hardware and
> the 2nd was a 3/4" 4tpi Delta. I have tried to check the alginment of the
> guides and the blade tracking, but no amout of fiddling seems to change
the
> condition. If i feel the teeth on the blade it seems sharp?
> Am I expecting too much life out of the blades? This does not seem like a
> lot of useage to dull the blade. Am I doing something wrong here? Any
help
> would be appreciated!
>
>
>