I'm building a new cabinet for my kitchen and am trying to determine the
right size to make the doors and drawers. The plans call for using inset
doors and drawers (i.e. flush with the face frame). How much spacing do I
need to allow for between the doors/drawers and face frame?
I live in Raleigh, NC where the summer humidity can be pretty intense but
the winters are just cold enough to run the heater for 4 months, so I
imagine I'll get some decent expansion/contraction. The doors are frame and
panel, as are the large drawers, but for the small drawers I'm making the
drawer fronts out of a single piece of poplar. They'll be 6" wide.
Thanks,
-Doug
"Doug Neumann" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm building a new cabinet for my kitchen and am trying to determine the
> right size to make the doors and drawers. The plans call for using inset
> doors and drawers (i.e. flush with the face frame). How much spacing do I
> need to allow for between the doors/drawers and face frame?
>
> I live in Raleigh, NC where the summer humidity can be pretty intense but
> the winters are just cold enough to run the heater for 4 months, so I
> imagine I'll get some decent expansion/contraction. The doors are frame
and
> panel, as are the large drawers, but for the small drawers I'm making the
> drawer fronts out of a single piece of poplar. They'll be 6" wide.
I tend to cut my doors 3/16" under the opening height/width. Works for me.
Of course doing it this way depends on the hinges you are using.
SH
Hi Doug,
I also live in Raleigh and have wondered the same thing. Just built a chest
of drawers/changing table. I used the 1/8 inch gap in the drawers. I think
it is a bit too big of a gap. If I was to do it over I would go with
something less. I like the post that says to cut to exact size than use a
jointer to slowly take back the excess. Wish I read it prior to making the
seven drawers. Oh well, live and learn.
So long,
Brad
"Doug Neumann" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm building a new cabinet for my kitchen and am trying to determine the
> right size to make the doors and drawers. The plans call for using inset
> doors and drawers (i.e. flush with the face frame). How much spacing do I
> need to allow for between the doors/drawers and face frame?
>
> I live in Raleigh, NC where the summer humidity can be pretty intense but
> the winters are just cold enough to run the heater for 4 months, so I
> imagine I'll get some decent expansion/contraction. The doors are frame
and
> panel, as are the large drawers, but for the small drawers I'm making the
> drawer fronts out of a single piece of poplar. They'll be 6" wide.
>
> Thanks,
> -Doug
>
>
I think that it depends a lot on the size of the door(s).
I just finished a paint/finish/storage cabinet for the
shop that had 4 inset doors, each about 22 x 72.
After I used the jointer to get the first one just right,
I thought that it would have been a lot easier to build
the FF's around each since they were a PITA to feed
through the jointer - not to mention to mortise
the hinges. Unfortunately, I had already had the FF's
in place, so my "brilliant" idea will have to wait
until the situation comes up again.
For regular cabinet doors of normal size, I think
it's still better/easier to size the door to the
opening.
My 2ç.
Lou
In article <[email protected]>, Swingman
<[email protected]> wrote:
> "Pat Barber" wrote in message
> > Somewhere(Lowes ??), I found a book on "Kitchen Makeovers"
> > that are articles from Fine Home Building....
> >
> > There is an excellent story of a guy who builds these real
> > snazzy kitchen cabinets that all have inset doors.
> >
> > The "kicker" is that he hangs the doors and then builds
> > the face frames "around" the doors, which really cuts down
> > on the BS of fitting inset doors, which scares the crap out
> > of me for a single door, but 30-50 doors that are ALL inset
> > would just not be in my future....
> >
> > Ahhh here it is:
> >
> > http://www.taunton.com/store/pages/070637.asp
> >
> > It's a handy little book on kitchen redo's....
>
> Actually, and with the right tools on hand (a jointer is quickest) I can fit
> an inset door in just a few minutes ... it would take me much longer to
> build proper FF's around one door than that, much less 30-50. ;>)
>
> Different strokes ...
As far as spacing, I use a 3d nail - seems about
right.
Lou
In article <[email protected]>, Eric Ryder
<[email protected]> wrote:
> "Doug Neumann" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I'm building a new cabinet for my kitchen and am trying to determine the
> > right size to make the doors and drawers. The plans call for using inset
> > doors and drawers (i.e. flush with the face frame). How much spacing do I
> > need to allow for between the doors/drawers and face frame?
> >
> > I live in Raleigh, NC where the summer humidity can be pretty intense but
> > the winters are just cold enough to run the heater for 4 months, so I
> > imagine I'll get some decent expansion/contraction. The doors are frame
> > and panel, as are the large drawers, but for the small drawers I'm making
> > the drawer fronts out of a single piece of poplar. They'll be 6" wide.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > -Doug
>
> I've been using the partial wrap hinges from Lee Valley for inset doors
> lately (Amerocks?
>
> http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.asp?page=41984&category=3,41241,41257&c
> currency=2&SID=
> ). I have been sizing the gap to match the closest hing placement (about
> 3/32"), but have found that this is not enough with hard maple doors in my
> climate (NH). I'll be going to 1/8" and adjusting the doors out on the
> hinges a bit.
>
>
"Doug Neumann" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm building a new cabinet for my kitchen and am trying to determine the
> right size to make the doors and drawers. The plans call for using inset
> doors and drawers (i.e. flush with the face frame). How much spacing do I
> need to allow for between the doors/drawers and face frame?
>
> I live in Raleigh, NC where the summer humidity can be pretty intense but
> the winters are just cold enough to run the heater for 4 months, so I
> imagine I'll get some decent expansion/contraction. The doors are frame
> and panel, as are the large drawers, but for the small drawers I'm making
> the drawer fronts out of a single piece of poplar. They'll be 6" wide.
>
> Thanks,
> -Doug
I've been using the partial wrap hinges from Lee Valley for inset doors
lately (Amerocks?
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.asp?page=41984&category=3,41241,41257&ccurrency=2&SID=
). I have been sizing the gap to match the closest hing placement (about
3/32"), but have found that this is not enough with hard maple doors in my
climate (NH). I'll be going to 1/8" and adjusting the doors out on the
hinges a bit.
Somewhere(Lowes ??), I found a book on "Kitchen Makeovers"
that are articles from Fine Home Building....
There is an excellent story of a guy who builds these real
snazzy kitchen cabinets that all have inset doors.
The "kicker" is that he hangs the doors and then builds
the face frames "around" the doors, which really cuts down
on the BS of fitting inset doors, which scares the crap out
of me for a single door, but 30-50 doors that are ALL inset
would just not be in my future....
Ahhh here it is:
http://www.taunton.com/store/pages/070637.asp
It's a handy little book on kitchen redo's....
Swingman wrote:
>
> Inset doors and drawers can be a bitch to fit if you don't have much
> experience with them. Here are some tips from a previous post of mine to
> ponder::
>
> Requirement: Perfectly,.as possible, "square" face frame.
>
> Requirement: Perfectly, as possible, "flat" stock for the doors rails and
> stiles, so the door has NO warp.
>
> If the door is warped, do something to get rid of it ... the warp, or the
> door. If the FF is warped ... well.
"Doug Neumann" wrote in message
> I'm building a new cabinet for my kitchen and am trying to determine the
> right size to make the doors and drawers. The plans call for using inset
> doors and drawers (i.e. flush with the face frame). How much spacing do I
> need to allow for between the doors/drawers and face frame?
>
> I live in Raleigh, NC where the summer humidity can be pretty intense but
> the winters are just cold enough to run the heater for 4 months, so I
> imagine I'll get some decent expansion/contraction. The doors are frame
and
> panel, as are the large drawers, but for the small drawers I'm making the
> drawer fronts out of a single piece of poplar. They'll be 6" wide.
Somewhere between a 1/16th - 1/8th looks nice ... I generally try to get
closer to the smaller dimension.
Inset doors and drawers can be a bitch to fit if you don't have much
experience with them. Here are some tips from a previous post of mine to
ponder::
Requirement: Perfectly,.as possible, "square" face frame.
Requirement: Perfectly, as possible, "flat" stock for the doors rails and
stiles, so the door has NO warp.
If the door is warped, do something to get rid of it ... the warp, or the
door. If the FF is warped ... well.
Make the door/drawer oversize in both dimensions ... about 3/32" wider and
taller than the door opening ... you want to end up with about a 1/16 - 1/8"
gap, all around, between the door and the face frame of a single, inset door
in a cabinet.
I generally start by placing a bottom and top side, usually the bottom rail
and hinge side stile, in the door opening.
Then start your choice of planing, cutting, jointing, sanding, on the top
rail and opposite stile for a TIGHT fit of the door in the opening.
You got a choice of methods. If you're real good with a plane, you may find
that an option. I generally use my stationary belt sander as there is
generally less damage/chipout when sanding, and I often use the jointer now
that I own a good one. A well set up table saw with a good blade is an
option. Sanding is probably better if you've never done it before.
Once you get the top and hinge side reduced to where the door will go JUST
go in the opening with NO room to spare, pull the door out and make a mark
1/8" across the top rail and opposite stile.
Plane, cut, joint, sand, to this line ... but sneak up on this line
carefully.
Check the fit often ...
HTH ...
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 7/10/04
"Pat Barber" wrote in message
> Somewhere(Lowes ??), I found a book on "Kitchen Makeovers"
> that are articles from Fine Home Building....
>
> There is an excellent story of a guy who builds these real
> snazzy kitchen cabinets that all have inset doors.
>
> The "kicker" is that he hangs the doors and then builds
> the face frames "around" the doors, which really cuts down
> on the BS of fitting inset doors, which scares the crap out
> of me for a single door, but 30-50 doors that are ALL inset
> would just not be in my future....
>
> Ahhh here it is:
>
> http://www.taunton.com/store/pages/070637.asp
>
> It's a handy little book on kitchen redo's....
Actually, and with the right tools on hand (a jointer is quickest) I can fit
an inset door in just a few minutes ... it would take me much longer to
build proper FF's around one door than that, much less 30-50. ;>)
Different strokes ...
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 7/10/04