What? More woodworking?

I like it! I had never heard or seen that particular bench until you broug=
ht it up, but it looks like a winner. You can see the thought that went in=
to the design. After you posted on that a while back I watched a few of hi=
s videos and then looked at some "upgrades". All good stuff.

I think you will get a lot of use out of that setup as you can have a stabl=
e work table set up for your cabinet builds in pretty short order. Did you=
build the two piece version or the one?

Nice work as always, by the way. =20

Is business picking up?

Robert

On Sat, 10 Feb 2018 11:29:39 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:

>So a few of you know that I began building the Ron Paulk style work
>bench. And like most that do I changed the plans a bit.
>
>I used a Dremel and its circle cutting adapter to cut out a round ended
>support and used that support as a pattern jig to cut out the rest of
>the 25 holes. I used my trim router with a 1/2" top bearing flush cut
>bit to cut out all of the holes.
>
>Supports
>https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/39153955304/in/dateposted-public/
>
>Sides
>https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/39864171701/in/dateposted-public/
>
>Then a load of pocket holes and screws to attach the sides and inner
>supports to the top, I mean the bottom, well really the top, but it is
>going to be the bottom. I'll explain a bit farther down why the confusion.
>https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/39939798962/in/dateposted-public/
>
>Done and only awaiting the top/bottom to be attached.
>https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/25100970467/in/dateposted-public/
>
>And finally the legs, 4 of them all alike except for the 2 with top
>extensions that will engage the bottoms of the work surfaces.
>I screwed all 4 blanks together, drew the pattern on the top piece and
>use my track saw to plunge cut through all 4 pieces of 1/2" plywood. I
>used my jigsaw to finish cutting the corners where the round blade could
>not reach on the lower layers.
>
>The cut outs are to support long stock on one side of the work bench
>area. The top extension on one side of the legs is longer to support
>the track saw track on its back edge with parallel guides attached. It
>will protrude out from the edge of the work surface a few inches.
>
>https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/25100970467/in/dateposted-public/
>
>I'll post pictures of the set up when completed. A picture is worth a
>load of words.
>
>So as for the confusion of the top and bottom mentioned above.
>Originally the designer, Ron Paulk, used 3/4" ply wood to build 2, 24"
>by 96" work surfaces. This is supposed to be portable. IIRC he weighed
>each half of the work surface and each weighed just shy of 60 lbs. I do
>not consider that to be light weight or very portable for one person.
>
>Any way his method of assembly is to pocket hole and glue the sides and
>inner supports into the TOP of the assembly. No problem there. then he
>simply glues the bottom of the assembly on top of the upside down
>assembly and goes straight into the edges of the sides and inner
>supports with screws. It would be extremely difficult to pocket hole
>and glue that bottom side from inside the closed assembly.
>That is how it was intended to be assembled.
>
>A near by WW friend build one himself and did not realize that the edge
>of plywood is soft and some of his pocket holes pierced the top of the
>work bench, just slightly. He did not notice the offending screws until
>he slid a piece of oak veneer plywood across the work surface and found
>resistance and scratches on the bottom side.
>
>Fast forward to me with my bench and I decided to not risk any of those
>screws doing the same. AND add to that the latest design that Ron Paulk
>came out with called for 1/2" plywood, to make that portable work bench
>"more portable", with a 33+ Percent weight reduction.
>That made pocket hole depth more critical even with 1" pocket hole screws.
>
>So I counter sunk the screws for the bottom, but now the top side, and I
>will use the intended bottom side as the top side. I decided that if I
>were to cut into the intended top work surface there would be a pretty
>good chance I might run onto one of those hidden pocket hole screws.
>All of the screws on the bottom, not the top, are very easily seen and
>could be more easily avoided. So the intended bottom surface will be my
>top surface. There you have it.

Very nice! It looks like airplane wing construction. Instead of
flipping it over, I suppose you could add veneer to the (other) top to
hide any screws. Of course, it's more work and would add some small
amount of weight.

>

On 2/10/2018 12:01 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Sat, 10 Feb 2018 11:29:39 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
> wrote:
>
>> So a few of you know that I began building the Ron Paulk style work
>> bench. And like most that do I changed the plans a bit.
>>
>> I used a Dremel and its circle cutting adapter to cut out a round ended
>> support and used that support as a pattern jig to cut out the rest of
>> the 25 holes. I used my trim router with a 1/2" top bearing flush cut
>> bit to cut out all of the holes.
>>
>> Supports
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/39153955304/in/dateposted-public/
>>
>> Sides
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/39864171701/in/dateposted-public/
>>
>> Then a load of pocket holes and screws to attach the sides and inner
>> supports to the top, I mean the bottom, well really the top, but it is
>> going to be the bottom. I'll explain a bit farther down why the confusion.
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/39939798962/in/dateposted-public/
>>
>> Done and only awaiting the top/bottom to be attached.
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/25100970467/in/dateposted-public/
>>
>> And finally the legs, 4 of them all alike except for the 2 with top
>> extensions that will engage the bottoms of the work surfaces.
>> I screwed all 4 blanks together, drew the pattern on the top piece and
>> use my track saw to plunge cut through all 4 pieces of 1/2" plywood. I
>> used my jigsaw to finish cutting the corners where the round blade could
>> not reach on the lower layers.
>>
>> The cut outs are to support long stock on one side of the work bench
>> area. The top extension on one side of the legs is longer to support
>> the track saw track on its back edge with parallel guides attached. It
>> will protrude out from the edge of the work surface a few inches.
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/25100970467/in/dateposted-public/
>>
>> I'll post pictures of the set up when completed. A picture is worth a
>> load of words.
>>
>> So as for the confusion of the top and bottom mentioned above.
>> Originally the designer, Ron Paulk, used 3/4" ply wood to build 2, 24"
>> by 96" work surfaces. This is supposed to be portable. IIRC he weighed
>> each half of the work surface and each weighed just shy of 60 lbs. I do
>> not consider that to be light weight or very portable for one person.
>>
>> Any way his method of assembly is to pocket hole and glue the sides and
>> inner supports into the TOP of the assembly. No problem there. then he
>> simply glues the bottom of the assembly on top of the upside down
>> assembly and goes straight into the edges of the sides and inner
>> supports with screws. It would be extremely difficult to pocket hole
>> and glue that bottom side from inside the closed assembly.
>> That is how it was intended to be assembled.
>>
>> A near by WW friend build one himself and did not realize that the edge
>> of plywood is soft and some of his pocket holes pierced the top of the
>> work bench, just slightly. He did not notice the offending screws until
>> he slid a piece of oak veneer plywood across the work surface and found
>> resistance and scratches on the bottom side.
>>
>> Fast forward to me with my bench and I decided to not risk any of those
>> screws doing the same. AND add to that the latest design that Ron Paulk
>> came out with called for 1/2" plywood, to make that portable work bench
>> "more portable", with a 33+ Percent weight reduction.
>> That made pocket hole depth more critical even with 1" pocket hole screws.
>>
>> So I counter sunk the screws for the bottom, but now the top side, and I
>> will use the intended bottom side as the top side. I decided that if I
>> were to cut into the intended top work surface there would be a pretty
>> good chance I might run onto one of those hidden pocket hole screws.
>> All of the screws on the bottom, not the top, are very easily seen and
>> could be more easily avoided. So the intended bottom surface will be my
>> top surface. There you have it.
>
> Very nice! It looks like airplane wing construction. Instead of
> flipping it over, I suppose you could add veneer to the (other) top to
> hide any screws. Of course, it's more work and would add some small
> amount of weight.
>
>>
I could but that, as you pointed out, is more weight, cost, and time.
It is not suppose to be purdy. ;~)

Thank you BTW

On 2/10/2018 12:40 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 2/10/18 11:29 AM, Leon wrote:
>> So a few of you know that I began building the Ron Paulk style work
>> bench.  And like most that do I changed the plans a bit.
>>
>> I used a Dremel and its circle cutting adapter to cut out a round
>> ended support and used that support as a pattern jig to cut out the
>> rest of the 25 holes.  I used my trim router with a 1/2" top bearing
>> flush cut bit to cut out all of the holes.
>>
>> Supports
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/39153955304/in/dateposted-public/
>>
>> Sides
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/39864171701/in/dateposted-public/
>>
>
> Looks like you just wanted an excuse to make a bunch of zero-clearance
> inserts.   :-p
>
>
NO Kidding! Ha! I did not think of that. I have already squared them
up and I will hold on to them for several years. Then I'll probably
throw them away. LOL

On 2/10/2018 12:23 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> I like it! I had never heard or seen that particular bench until you brought it up, but it looks like a winner. You can see the thought that went into the design. After you posted on that a while back I watched a few of his videos and then looked at some "upgrades". All good stuff.
>
> I think you will get a lot of use out of that setup as you can have a stable work table set up for your cabinet builds in pretty short order. Did you build the two piece version or the one?

I built the two piece design, 20"W each, 96"L, 8"T, So the work surface
is 40"x96" and I can easily handle one section. I was really looking
for a large FLAT surface, precisely for cabinet work.


>
> Nice work as always, by the way.

Thank you
>
> Is business picking up?

No, and that is OK. I have a few projects around the house I want to do.
>
> Robert
>

On 2/10/18 11:29 AM, Leon wrote:
> So a few of you know that I began building the Ron Paulk style work
> bench.  And like most that do I changed the plans a bit.
>
> I used a Dremel and its circle cutting adapter to cut out a round ended
> support and used that support as a pattern jig to cut out the rest of
> the 25 holes.  I used my trim router with a 1/2" top bearing flush cut
> bit to cut out all of the holes.
>
> Supports
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/39153955304/in/dateposted-public/
>
> Sides
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/39864171701/in/dateposted-public/
>

Looks like you just wanted an excuse to make a bunch of zero-clearance
inserts. :-p


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com