Ok, I need some advise. I have a Blount wood lathe, cir 1929. It's in
preetty rough shape, but that's not a problem for me. I can get it
working like new in about 6 months, I'm a machinist too. I've restored
several old machines but this one has me questioning my morals. The
Lathe is huge, and has a cross slide saddle that acts kind of like a
metal lathe. I think it is a pattern lathe. The tail stock can be
rotated, it is marked in degrees! I think this is for turning perfect
tapers.
Here is my moral delema; The motor is integral to the head stock. It is
a 3 phase, 8 speed, 5 horse monster. The switching box alone is a work
of art, there must be at least 60 connections. The problem is that
where I live there is no 3 phase power. A phase converter for this
motor will still require me to upgrade my electric service. The phase
converter will cost about 3 grand! I cannot spend all that money, but I
really want to use THIS lathe, I have fallen in love with it. My plan
is to gut the motor keeping only the shell and the central shaft. I'll
machine a pulley and press it onto the shaft. Then I'll cut a hole in
the bottom of the motor and install a variable speed DC motor below the
original motor and belt the power to the original motor shaft. From the
outside nothing will be visible without really close inspection, I'll
even use the original speed selector switch to run the new motor.
Is this blasphemy? Is it wrong to so radically change this machine just
so I can use it? Will the gods of machine tools strike me down? Or will
they smile upon me for saving and using one of their lost children?
Every other tool I have restored has been faithful to the original. If
original parts weren't available used or new, I have machined new parts
so well that you can't tell I did it.
I live in Half Moon Bay, CA and anyone is welcome to come and see this
baby!
Please advise
Yeah, there is room on the outboard side for a pulley, and that was my
first idea. I do hate having exposed belts though, even with a guard.
Plus it will really change the look of the beast (vanity, I know) but I
spend a lot of time in my shop and I keep it really pretty! I rejected
the outboard pulley as the motor guts on the original shaft weigh about
60 lbs, and that will add to the start-up load for whatever motor I put
in.
As an aside, I'm not repainting it to the original colors, I never do.
I use Hammerite brand spray paint and usually do a 2 tone or 3 tone job
that is just a feast for the eyes. Most people who see my rebuilt tools
want to touch them and learn about them, even those who aren't usually
interested in tools at all!
Thanks for all the postings! I am looking for a way to put pictures up
on this reply, but I don't see how to. I brought in some before and
after pictures of my 1942 South Bend Heavy 10 Metal Lathe. I use it if
not every day, then at least every week. The work is as accurate as any
measuring instrument I won, about .0005 in.
Is there a way to post a picture here? If so I'll keep you all informed
as to the Blount Wood Lathe too.
Thanks again!
Wade
[email protected] wrote:
> Ok, I need some advise. I have a Blount wood lathe, cir 1929. It's in
> > ... I think it is a pattern lathe. The tail stock can be
> rotated, it is marked in degrees! I think this is for turning perfect
> tapers.
>
> Here is my moral delema; The motor is integral to the head stock. It is
> a 3 phase, 8 speed, 5 horse monster. The switching box alone is a work
> of art, there must be at least 60 connections. The problem is that
> where I live there is no 3 phase power. A phase converter for this
> motor will still require me to upgrade my electric service. The phase
> converter will cost about 3 grand! I cannot spend all that money, but I
> really want to use THIS lathe, I have fallen in love with it. My plan
> is to gut the motor keeping only the shell and the central shaft. I'll
> machine a pulley and press it onto the shaft. Then I'll cut a hole in
> the bottom of the motor and install a variable speed DC motor below the
> original motor and belt the power to the original motor shaft. From the
> outside nothing will be visible without really close inspection, I'll
> even use the original speed selector switch to run the new motor.
One question- do you have any info to expect the motor is currently
working? If so I think you should seriously consider keeping and using
the motor. Typically, a 5 hp 3phase motor would run fine off a 7.5 hp
rotary converter, 1 size up. Someone in a similar situation posted many
details in a post on the machine shop forum, see
www.practicalmachinist.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php/topic/3/632.html#000000
They had a motor that was 440 volt only (so a transformer was needed),
was only 2hp, but really used a lot of juice (amps) at the low speed,
almost 3 hp worth. If yours really uses a lot of juice on the low
speed, you might need a 10 hp rotary converter- if you want to turn
really big stuff.
On your motor you could use a 5 hp single phase VFD, or a 10 hp 3 phase
vfd if it didn't have phase loss protection. A VFD can be stretched
some past its normal rating; it will put out 150% for a minute. So if
you don't turn stuff big enough to need all 5 hp, you can stretch to a
smaller VFD.
A direct drive is so much smoother; this really counts on a lathe. A
2hp DC motor will be way less power, but cost you plenty $. (The
smaller ones are cheap, but bigger DC get $ on ebay.)
A 5 hp VFD will run fine off a 30 amp 240 volt circuit, especially
since they are a bit easier on the circuit breaker than a motor. To run
a 7.5 rotary phase, you need a 50 amp circuit, 10 hp even more. The
extra electrical costs of these options point to buying an appropriate
(no phase loss protection) used 10 hp 3 phase VFD off ebay for $300 or
so- single phase 5 hp VFDs are rare there. If the motor is 440 volts,
you need to buy a big (single phase) transformer; they can be cheap but
are real heavy, best to buy local. The plus is you can get a 440 volt
VFD for a lot less on ebay.
MAchine shop forum referenced above a good place to read up on the info
here.
Wade in TX
I opened up the old motor this weekend and found a mess inside. Most of
the wire power leads are fused and at one time were molten. Much of the
wire windings around the electro magnets are fused and at one time were
molten. Funny thing is that it turns by hand really easily. I think all
thoughts of using the motor "as is" with a power converter are gone
now. I'm going to proceed as planned with the conversion and see how it
works.
Thanks everyone for all the advise. I'm pretty fuzzy on how to post
pictures so if anyone who wants to see them emails me, I'll make up a
form letter with attachments and reply.
Wade
On Thu, 3 Aug 2006 16:18:57 -0700, "J. Mohnike" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Oops......I have heard but do not know for sure that if you drive a motor,
>that it could, under certain conditions act as a generator. Like I said not
>sure, but if there is the possibility I would look at removeing the old
>motor.
Not could, will. It' s been 25 years since power conversion class, but
I'm not aware of any motors that would be precluded from generating
electricity when turned mechanically at the proper rotation speed. (Just
turning a motor with your hand isn't going to cause any dangerous voltages)
>Has anyone else heard of this happening?
>I have not heard of a rotating tail stock used for tapers, I have off set
>the tail stock on my metal lathe to cut tapers.
>Is there a chance that this is part of a "back knife" lathe?
>Sounds like a oldie but goodie. I have one made in the 1860's flat belt
>drive. The last time it was used much was when the remodeled the mission at
>Santa Barbara. it is a 6" by 11ft. lathe (wood bed) I still use it from time
>to time just to play.
><[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Ok, I need some advise. I have a Blount wood lathe, cir 1929. It's in
>> preetty rough shape, but that's not a problem for me. I can get it
>> working like new in about 6 months, I'm a machinist too. I've restored
>> several old machines but this one has me questioning my morals. The
>> Lathe is huge, and has a cross slide saddle that acts kind of like a
>> metal lathe. I think it is a pattern lathe. The tail stock can be
>> rotated, it is marked in degrees! I think this is for turning perfect
>> tapers.
>>
>> Here is my moral delema; The motor is integral to the head stock. It is
>> a 3 phase, 8 speed, 5 horse monster. The switching box alone is a work
>> of art, there must be at least 60 connections. The problem is that
>> where I live there is no 3 phase power. A phase converter for this
>> motor will still require me to upgrade my electric service. The phase
>> converter will cost about 3 grand! I cannot spend all that money, but I
>> really want to use THIS lathe, I have fallen in love with it. My plan
>> is to gut the motor keeping only the shell and the central shaft. I'll
>> machine a pulley and press it onto the shaft. Then I'll cut a hole in
>> the bottom of the motor and install a variable speed DC motor below the
>> original motor and belt the power to the original motor shaft. From the
>> outside nothing will be visible without really close inspection, I'll
>> even use the original speed selector switch to run the new motor.
>>
>> Is this blasphemy? Is it wrong to so radically change this machine just
>> so I can use it? Will the gods of machine tools strike me down? Or will
>> they smile upon me for saving and using one of their lost children?
>> Every other tool I have restored has been faithful to the original. If
>> original parts weren't available used or new, I have machined new parts
>> so well that you can't tell I did it.
>>
>> I live in Half Moon Bay, CA and anyone is welcome to come and see this
>> baby!
>>
>> Please advise
>>
>
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ok, I need some advise. I have a Blount wood lathe, cir 1929. It's in
> preetty rough shape, but that's not a problem for me. I can get it
> working like new in about 6 months, I'm a machinist too. I've restored
> several old machines but this one has me questioning my morals. The
> Lathe is huge, and has a cross slide saddle that acts kind of like a
> metal lathe. I think it is a pattern lathe. The tail stock can be
> rotated, it is marked in degrees! I think this is for turning perfect
> tapers.
>
> Here is my moral delema; The motor is integral to the head stock. It is
> a 3 phase, 8 speed, 5 horse monster. The switching box alone is a work
> of art, there must be at least 60 connections. The problem is that
> where I live there is no 3 phase power. A phase converter for this
> motor will still require me to upgrade my electric service. The phase
> converter will cost about 3 grand! I cannot spend all that money, but I
> really want to use THIS lathe, I have fallen in love with it. My plan
> is to gut the motor keeping only the shell and the central shaft. I'll
> machine a pulley and press it onto the shaft. Then I'll cut a hole in
> the bottom of the motor and install a variable speed DC motor below the
> original motor and belt the power to the original motor shaft. From the
> outside nothing will be visible without really close inspection, I'll
> even use the original speed selector switch to run the new motor.
>
> Is this blasphemy? Is it wrong to so radically change this machine just
> so I can use it? Will the gods of machine tools strike me down? Or will
> they smile upon me for saving and using one of their lost children?
> Every other tool I have restored has been faithful to the original. If
> original parts weren't available used or new, I have machined new parts
> so well that you can't tell I did it.
>
> I live in Half Moon Bay, CA and anyone is welcome to come and see this
> baby!
>
> Please advise
>
A new academic discipline is born, Old Iron Ethics!!
If you really want to preserve the original, in all its glory, you are
restoring an industrial machine that would not fit into your situation very
well. It becomes something you put on a display and tell everyone what an
interesting piece of history it is.
If you actually want to use it, well............, that is a whole 'nother
thing.
It seems to me if you went to all the trouble to restore the thing, you
would want to use it. And if that meant adapting it to fit into the modern
world in some fashion, that would be understandable under the circumstances.
On the farm I grew up on, almost all the farm equipment that we used with
our tractor was originally horse drawn equipment. It was cheap, sturdy and
easily adaptable. I once asked my grandfather, who used to farm and log
with horses, what the horses would think that we were pulling around "their"
equipment with a gasoline powered tractor. His answer was that they
wouldn't mind because they would not have to do the work.
Whatever circumstances that the machine is in now is very different than it
was a long time ago. The old iron gods will forgive you. Whatever changes
and adaptation you make to this old machine, its spirit will live on due to
your thoughtful attention and hard work. You have nothing to worry about.
Your soul is safe.
For an AC motor, you'd need an exciter current . Not a problem here.
"Mark & Juanita" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 3 Aug 2006 16:18:57 -0700, "J. Mohnike" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >Oops......I have heard but do not know for sure that if you drive a
motor,
> >that it could, under certain conditions act as a generator. Like I said
not
> >sure, but if there is the possibility I would look at removeing the old
> >motor.
>
> Not could, will. It' s been 25 years since power conversion class, but
> I'm not aware of any motors that would be precluded from generating
> electricity when turned mechanically at the proper rotation speed. (Just
> turning a motor with your hand isn't going to cause any dangerous
voltages)
>
> >Has anyone else heard of this happening?
> >I have not heard of a rotating tail stock used for tapers, I have off set
> >the tail stock on my metal lathe to cut tapers.
> >Is there a chance that this is part of a "back knife" lathe?
> >Sounds like a oldie but goodie. I have one made in the 1860's flat belt
> >drive. The last time it was used much was when the remodeled the mission
at
> >Santa Barbara. it is a 6" by 11ft. lathe (wood bed) I still use it from
time
> >to time just to play.
> ><[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >> Ok, I need some advise. I have a Blount wood lathe, cir 1929. It's in
> >> preetty rough shape, but that's not a problem for me. I can get it
> >> working like new in about 6 months, I'm a machinist too. I've restored
> >> several old machines but this one has me questioning my morals. The
> >> Lathe is huge, and has a cross slide saddle that acts kind of like a
> >> metal lathe. I think it is a pattern lathe. The tail stock can be
> >> rotated, it is marked in degrees! I think this is for turning perfect
> >> tapers.
> >>
> >> Here is my moral delema; The motor is integral to the head stock. It is
> >> a 3 phase, 8 speed, 5 horse monster. The switching box alone is a work
> >> of art, there must be at least 60 connections. The problem is that
> >> where I live there is no 3 phase power. A phase converter for this
> >> motor will still require me to upgrade my electric service. The phase
> >> converter will cost about 3 grand! I cannot spend all that money, but I
> >> really want to use THIS lathe, I have fallen in love with it. My plan
> >> is to gut the motor keeping only the shell and the central shaft. I'll
> >> machine a pulley and press it onto the shaft. Then I'll cut a hole in
> >> the bottom of the motor and install a variable speed DC motor below the
> >> original motor and belt the power to the original motor shaft. From the
> >> outside nothing will be visible without really close inspection, I'll
> >> even use the original speed selector switch to run the new motor.
> >>
> >> Is this blasphemy? Is it wrong to so radically change this machine just
> >> so I can use it? Will the gods of machine tools strike me down? Or will
> >> they smile upon me for saving and using one of their lost children?
> >> Every other tool I have restored has been faithful to the original. If
> >> original parts weren't available used or new, I have machined new parts
> >> so well that you can't tell I did it.
> >>
> >> I live in Half Moon Bay, CA and anyone is welcome to come and see this
> >> baby!
> >>
> >> Please advise
> >>
> >
>
>
>
+---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----+
>
> If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough
>
>
+---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----+
"Wade the Tool Guy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Thanks for all the postings! I am looking for a way to put pictures up
> on this reply, but I don't see how to. I brought in some before and
> after pictures of my 1942 South Bend Heavy 10 Metal Lathe. I use it if
> not every day, then at least every week. The work is as accurate as any
> measuring instrument I won, about .0005 in.
>
> Is there a way to post a picture here? If so I'll keep you all informed
> as to the Blount Wood Lathe too.
>
Post your pictures at alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking. This is the famous
ABPW acronym often referred to here in the wreck.
Many ISP's do not allow binaries in a regular newsgroup and they would be
stripped out. That is why you need to post your pictures to abpw.
And do keep us apprised of the monster lathe project. Many of us are fond
of big iron. Even if we could never fit any big iron into our garages!
<[email protected]> wrote in message
> Ok, I need some advise.
Mine is more philosophical, rather than mechanical.
Can you make the switchover to a more modern, useful tool, but still retain
the option to go back to the vintage if need be in the future?
I had to make a similar decision, with a different type of "tool" some 20 +
years ago.
The "tool", still in use and much sought after, is a 1961 Fender Jazz Bass
that, with the original parts, will easily bring around $10 - 12K to the
right collector.
I chose to remove the original "engine" (vintage pickups) and replace them
with something that was more modern, gave more tone options, and worked
better for more types of music in the studio.
It was a hard decision to make, and while I kept the original pickups which
could be put back, the hard core collector would know and would shudder to
think of the conversion.
In short, you will be slightly unhappy whatever you do, so pick the option
that gives _you_ the most satisfaction.
In my case, I made the decision to be able to continue to use the tool in a
modern world and gain the satisfaction that comes from using it.
Tough decision ... hope this helps to settle your mind.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 7/30/06
Got any pictures of the paint jobs? Sounds interesting...
Clint
"Wade the Tool Guy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Yeah, there is room on the outboard side for a pulley, and that was my
> first idea. I do hate having exposed belts though, even with a guard.
> Plus it will really change the look of the beast (vanity, I know) but I
> spend a lot of time in my shop and I keep it really pretty! I rejected
> the outboard pulley as the motor guts on the original shaft weigh about
> 60 lbs, and that will add to the start-up load for whatever motor I put
> in.
>
> As an aside, I'm not repainting it to the original colors, I never do.
> I use Hammerite brand spray paint and usually do a 2 tone or 3 tone job
> that is just a feast for the eyes. Most people who see my rebuilt tools
> want to touch them and learn about them, even those who aren't usually
> interested in tools at all!
>
Is it possible to "gut the motor" and just use it
as bearings for a new, longer shaft?
Take out the shaft/windings, and make a new shaft
that mates up with the chuck, but also sticks out a few
inches on the opposite side. Put your new pulley there,
your varispeed DC motor underneath, and use the original
motor frame as kind of a jackshaft arrangement. No cutting
of the original motor shell -- with the possible exception of
making a hole for the shaft out the back. Unit could be
completely re-converted by installing your original shaft
and windings, and possibly capping the new exit hole.
(I would put the parts in a nice wood or metal box, label it,
and securely fasten it underneath the lathe cabinet, so your
heirs don't pitch them when they're getting ready for the auction!)
However, have you considered a VFD instead of a
phase converter? That, plus the built-in speed controller,
may give you the speed ranges you need off of standard
220 power. Yeah, you'll need lots of it, but if you're a
machinist, you'll need lots of it anyway, sooner or later.
Best o' luck.
"Chip"
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ok, I need some advise. I have a Blount wood lathe, cir 1929. It's in
> preetty rough shape, but that's not a problem for me. I can get it
> working like new in about 6 months, I'm a machinist too. I've restored
> several old machines but this one has me questioning my morals. The
> Lathe is huge, and has a cross slide saddle that acts kind of like a
> metal lathe. I think it is a pattern lathe. The tail stock can be
> rotated, it is marked in degrees! I think this is for turning perfect
> tapers.
>
> Here is my moral delema; The motor is integral to the head stock. It is
> a 3 phase, 8 speed, 5 horse monster. The switching box alone is a work
> of art, there must be at least 60 connections. The problem is that
> where I live there is no 3 phase power. A phase converter for this
> motor will still require me to upgrade my electric service. The phase
> converter will cost about 3 grand! I cannot spend all that money, but I
> really want to use THIS lathe, I have fallen in love with it. My plan
> is to gut the motor keeping only the shell and the central shaft. I'll
> machine a pulley and press it onto the shaft. Then I'll cut a hole in
> the bottom of the motor and install a variable speed DC motor below the
> original motor and belt the power to the original motor shaft. From the
> outside nothing will be visible without really close inspection, I'll
> even use the original speed selector switch to run the new motor.
>
> Is this blasphemy? Is it wrong to so radically change this machine just
> so I can use it? Will the gods of machine tools strike me down? Or will
> they smile upon me for saving and using one of their lost children?
> Every other tool I have restored has been faithful to the original. If
> original parts weren't available used or new, I have machined new parts
> so well that you can't tell I did it.
>
> I live in Half Moon Bay, CA and anyone is welcome to come and see this
> baby!
>
> Please advise
>
On 3 Aug 2006 09:36:47 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
[much snippage]
Coupla things.
Go over to WoodCentral (http://www.woodcentral.com) on the Main
Message board or the Turning board and ask your question. Include a
plea in the subject line for Forrest Addy to weigh in. What he doesn't
know about the motor situation you describe probably isn't known
nowadays (see if he doesn't suggest a VFD--variable frequency drive).
Respectfully restoring old ahrn vs new fancy paint job. Strikes me you
can't have it both ways. If you're getting all ethical about
preserving the sanctity of the antique, then you're in for a pound--no
fancy paint job. That's alright, though, because if you're willing to
compromise your morals for the paint, then making whatever mechanical
mods you need to isn't a dillema at all. Just do it.
--
LRod
Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite
Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999
http://www.woodbutcher.net
Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997
email addy de-spam-ified due to 1,000 spams per month.
If you can't figure out how to use it, I probably wouldn't
care to correspond with you anyway.
On 3 Aug 2006 09:36:47 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
Wade... Try a visit and email to Bill Noble:
http://www.wbnoble.com/
Bill's out of Santa Monica and is really good with motors, converters,
controllers, etc..
He has a lot of used stuff that he sells on his site and he's very helpful..
If I was still in the bay area, I'd love to visit that lathe, but it's a pretty
good trip from Fresno *g*
>I live in Half Moon Bay, CA and anyone is welcome to come and see this
>baby!
>
>Please advise
Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm
Oops......I have heard but do not know for sure that if you drive a motor,
that it could, under certain conditions act as a generator. Like I said not
sure, but if there is the possibility I would look at removeing the old
motor.
Has anyone else heard of this happening?
I have not heard of a rotating tail stock used for tapers, I have off set
the tail stock on my metal lathe to cut tapers.
Is there a chance that this is part of a "back knife" lathe?
Sounds like a oldie but goodie. I have one made in the 1860's flat belt
drive. The last time it was used much was when the remodeled the mission at
Santa Barbara. it is a 6" by 11ft. lathe (wood bed) I still use it from time
to time just to play.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ok, I need some advise. I have a Blount wood lathe, cir 1929. It's in
> preetty rough shape, but that's not a problem for me. I can get it
> working like new in about 6 months, I'm a machinist too. I've restored
> several old machines but this one has me questioning my morals. The
> Lathe is huge, and has a cross slide saddle that acts kind of like a
> metal lathe. I think it is a pattern lathe. The tail stock can be
> rotated, it is marked in degrees! I think this is for turning perfect
> tapers.
>
> Here is my moral delema; The motor is integral to the head stock. It is
> a 3 phase, 8 speed, 5 horse monster. The switching box alone is a work
> of art, there must be at least 60 connections. The problem is that
> where I live there is no 3 phase power. A phase converter for this
> motor will still require me to upgrade my electric service. The phase
> converter will cost about 3 grand! I cannot spend all that money, but I
> really want to use THIS lathe, I have fallen in love with it. My plan
> is to gut the motor keeping only the shell and the central shaft. I'll
> machine a pulley and press it onto the shaft. Then I'll cut a hole in
> the bottom of the motor and install a variable speed DC motor below the
> original motor and belt the power to the original motor shaft. From the
> outside nothing will be visible without really close inspection, I'll
> even use the original speed selector switch to run the new motor.
>
> Is this blasphemy? Is it wrong to so radically change this machine just
> so I can use it? Will the gods of machine tools strike me down? Or will
> they smile upon me for saving and using one of their lost children?
> Every other tool I have restored has been faithful to the original. If
> original parts weren't available used or new, I have machined new parts
> so well that you can't tell I did it.
>
> I live in Half Moon Bay, CA and anyone is welcome to come and see this
> baby!
>
> Please advise
>
On Thu, 3 Aug 2006 11:56:03 -0500, "Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote:
>The "tool", still in use and much sought after, is a 1961 Fender Jazz Bass
>that, with the original parts, will easily bring around $10 - 12K to the
>right collector.
>
>I chose to remove the original "engine" (vintage pickups) and replace them
>with something that was more modern, gave more tone options, and worked
>better for more types of music in the studio.
>
>It was a hard decision to make, and while I kept the original pickups which
>could be put back, the hard core collector would know and would shudder to
>think of the conversion.
>
<sniperoo>
An apt comparison.
What is better, a tool or instrument rendered unusable by value or
age, or a tool modified to do the job?
I face the same thing with a bunch of tools and goodies that I got
from my grandfathers garage last year, after he passed.
I have a box he made, very nicely, for holding 78 rpm records. I'm NOT
going to store records in this box. So I need to modify it for other
purposes? Is this blasphemy? Heck no, it would be a shame for
something to go unused simply for sentimental reasons, or because
somebody thinks something should be kept "just so".
So, IMO, modifying something, whether a tool, instrument, or other
item so that it is useful is a good thing, a sign that the only thing
that really matters is usefulness.
Mark
A California question if I ever saw one, but I understand.
Remember, it's yours and would probably be melted for Toyotas if you had not
rescued it!
If you want a lathe to use, put the modern drive in and enjoy it!
Is it possible to get a pulley on the back end of the motor shaft, so the
motor could stay and you'd just drive through it? That would save a lot of
work and not take out the original motor.
Is there room for a pulley behind the chuck. I can imagine a machinist
mounting a pulley rim on the back of the chuck, even if there isn't room on
the shaft.
I can also imagine a pulley squeezed between the chuck and the alignment
shoulder.
I can even imagine an adapter long enough to carry the pulley with a female
thread to go on the headstock and a male thread to carry the chuck. More
work than gutting the motor, but keeps the original setup..
Wilson
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ok, I need some advise. I have a Blount wood lathe, cir 1929. It's in
> preetty rough shape, but that's not a problem for me. I can get it
> working like new in about 6 months, I'm a machinist too. I've restored
> several old machines but this one has me questioning my morals. The
> Lathe is huge, and has a cross slide saddle that acts kind of like a
> metal lathe. I think it is a pattern lathe. The tail stock can be
> rotated, it is marked in degrees! I think this is for turning perfect
> tapers.
>
> Here is my moral delema; The motor is integral to the head stock. It is
> a 3 phase, 8 speed, 5 horse monster. The switching box alone is a work
> of art, there must be at least 60 connections. The problem is that
> where I live there is no 3 phase power. A phase converter for this
> motor will still require me to upgrade my electric service. The phase
> converter will cost about 3 grand! I cannot spend all that money, but I
> really want to use THIS lathe, I have fallen in love with it. My plan
> is to gut the motor keeping only the shell and the central shaft. I'll
> machine a pulley and press it onto the shaft. Then I'll cut a hole in
> the bottom of the motor and install a variable speed DC motor below the
> original motor and belt the power to the original motor shaft. From the
> outside nothing will be visible without really close inspection, I'll
> even use the original speed selector switch to run the new motor.
>
> Is this blasphemy? Is it wrong to so radically change this machine just
> so I can use it? Will the gods of machine tools strike me down? Or will
> they smile upon me for saving and using one of their lost children?
> Every other tool I have restored has been faithful to the original. If
> original parts weren't available used or new, I have machined new parts
> so well that you can't tell I did it.
>
> I live in Half Moon Bay, CA and anyone is welcome to come and see this
> baby!
>
> Please advise
>
"Wade the Tool Guy" <[email protected]> said:
>Thanks for all the postings! I am looking for a way to put pictures up
>on this reply, but I don't see how to.
Two options. One is to upload the pictures to a web site and include
the http link in a posting to this forum. Otherwise, include the files
as an attachment in a posting to ABPW. As mentioned elsewhere, some
ISPs will delete binary attachments from postings to non-binary
groups. Even when they don't, some denizens of this particular area of
the usenet forest get downright testy when the occasional binary file
slips through.
The detailed requirements on how to upload/attach a file is strongly
dependent on the particular software application you are using. Check
the user documentation/help files for that application.
In article <[email protected]>,
"Wade the Tool Guy" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I opened up the old motor this weekend and found a mess inside. Most of
> the wire power leads are fused and at one time were molten. Much of the
> wire windings around the electro magnets are fused and at one time were
> molten. Funny thing is that it turns by hand really easily. I think all
> thoughts of using the motor "as is" with a power converter are gone
> now. I'm going to proceed as planned with the conversion and see how it
> works.
>
> Thanks everyone for all the advise. I'm pretty fuzzy on how to post
> pictures so if anyone who wants to see them emails me, I'll make up a
> form letter with attachments and reply.
Sounds like a reasonable and economically sound way to get it back up
and running. BTW, have you checked out Old Woodworking Machines web
pages for other lathes from Blount? You could also have a bit of
discussion with other owners or old tool fanatics for how to proceed.
<http://www.owwm.com/PhotoIndex/ByMfg.asp?MfgID=109>
Pictures can only be posted to either alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking
newsgroup or hosted on an independent web server.
--
Owen Lowe
The Fly-by-Night Copper Company
_________
There is no "W" in Leadership.
> Yeah, there is room on the outboard side for a pulley, and that was my
> first idea. I do hate having exposed belts though, even with a guard.
> Plus it will really change the look of the beast (vanity, I know) but I
> spend a lot of time in my shop and I keep it really pretty! I rejected
> the outboard pulley as the motor guts on the original shaft weigh about
> 60 lbs, and that will add to the start-up load for whatever motor I put
> in.
>
> As an aside, I'm not repainting it to the original colors, I never do.
> I use Hammerite brand spray paint and usually do a 2 tone or 3 tone job
> that is just a feast for the eyes. Most people who see my rebuilt tools
> want to touch them and learn about them, even those who aren't usually
> interested in tools at all!
It never would have occurred to me to paint my stationary tools with a
custom theme until now. Might make the shop look just a little less jumbly.
I like the idea and look forward to seeing what you've done.
- Owen -
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ok, I need some advise. I have a Blount wood lathe, cir 1929. It's in
> preetty rough shape, but that's not a problem for me. I can get it
> working like new in about 6 months, I'm a machinist too. I've restored
> several old machines but this one has me questioning my morals. The
> Lathe is huge, and has a cross slide saddle that acts kind of like a
> metal lathe. I think it is a pattern lathe. The tail stock can be
> rotated, it is marked in degrees! I think this is for turning perfect
> tapers.
>
> Here is my moral delema; The motor is integral to the head stock. It is
> a 3 phase, 8 speed, 5 horse monster. The switching box alone is a work
> of art, there must be at least 60 connections. The problem is that
> where I live there is no 3 phase power. A phase converter for this
> motor will still require me to upgrade my electric service. The phase
> converter will cost about 3 grand! I cannot spend all that money, but I
> really want to use THIS lathe, I have fallen in love with it. My plan
> is to gut the motor keeping only the shell and the central shaft. I'll
> machine a pulley and press it onto the shaft. Then I'll cut a hole in
> the bottom of the motor and install a variable speed DC motor below the
> original motor and belt the power to the original motor shaft. From the
> outside nothing will be visible without really close inspection, I'll
> even use the original speed selector switch to run the new motor.
>
> Is this blasphemy? Is it wrong to so radically change this machine just
> so I can use it? Will the gods of machine tools strike me down? Or will
> they smile upon me for saving and using one of their lost children?
> Every other tool I have restored has been faithful to the original. If
> original parts weren't available used or new, I have machined new parts
> so well that you can't tell I did it.
>
> I live in Half Moon Bay, CA and anyone is welcome to come and see this
> baby!
>
> Please advise
>
$3k? you could build a rotary converter for a fraction. Why the power
upgrade with a converter?
I don't see a problem with it at all. A well done conversion is simply a
tribute to the machine. It simply means that it is worth the effort to
convert for your use rather than replace it.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ok, I need some advise. I have a Blount wood lathe, cir 1929. It's in
> preetty rough shape, but that's not a problem for me. I can get it
> working like new in about 6 months, I'm a machinist too. I've restored
> several old machines but this one has me questioning my morals. The
> Lathe is huge, and has a cross slide saddle that acts kind of like a
> metal lathe. I think it is a pattern lathe. The tail stock can be
> rotated, it is marked in degrees! I think this is for turning perfect
> tapers.
>
> Here is my moral delema; The motor is integral to the head stock. It is
> a 3 phase, 8 speed, 5 horse monster. The switching box alone is a work
> of art, there must be at least 60 connections. The problem is that
> where I live there is no 3 phase power. A phase converter for this
> motor will still require me to upgrade my electric service. The phase
> converter will cost about 3 grand! I cannot spend all that money, but I
> really want to use THIS lathe, I have fallen in love with it. My plan
> is to gut the motor keeping only the shell and the central shaft. I'll
> machine a pulley and press it onto the shaft. Then I'll cut a hole in
> the bottom of the motor and install a variable speed DC motor below the
> original motor and belt the power to the original motor shaft. From the
> outside nothing will be visible without really close inspection, I'll
> even use the original speed selector switch to run the new motor.
>
> Is this blasphemy? Is it wrong to so radically change this machine just
> so I can use it? Will the gods of machine tools strike me down? Or will
> they smile upon me for saving and using one of their lost children?
> Every other tool I have restored has been faithful to the original. If
> original parts weren't available used or new, I have machined new parts
> so well that you can't tell I did it.
>
> I live in Half Moon Bay, CA and anyone is welcome to come and see this
> baby!
>
> Please advise
>
A California question if I ever saw one, but I understand.
Remember, it's yours and would probably be melted for Toyotas if you had not
rescued it!
If you want a lathe to use, put the modern drive in and enjoy it!
Is it possible to get a pulley on the back end of the motor shaft, so the
motor could stay and you'd just drive through it? That would save a lot of
work and not take out the original motor.
Is there room for a pulley behind the chuck. I can imagine a machinist
mounting a pulley rim on the back of the chuck, even if there isn't room on
the shaft.
I can also imagine a pulley squeezed between the chuck and the alignment
shoulder.
I can even imagine an adapter long enough to carry the pulley with a female
thread to go on the headstock and a male thread to carry the chuck. More
work than gutting the motor, but keeps the original setup..
Wilson
> of art, there must be at least 60 connections. The problem is that
> where I live there is no 3 phase power. A phase converter for this
> motor will still require me to upgrade my electric service. The phase
> converter will cost