GG

"Galanw"

04/09/2005 2:33 PM

motor/switch wiring

My old Delta lathe refused to start a day after turning a 11" bowl without
incident. Before I try to distort my body in order to remove the motor from
the metal cabinet, I thought I would bypass the on/off switch to see whether
it is a switch problem. But, I am confounded by the 4 wire leads. There is
white, black, red and orange. An arrow labeled "line" points to the white
(and the black is next to it). There is an arrow labeled "load" pointing to
the red (and the orange is along side that).



Which lines do I cross in order to get power to the motor to determine
whether it is working? Everything rotates freely by hand, and I can see no
reset button on the motor. The label is also obscured by the mounting.



TIA for help.



Galanw




This topic has 2 replies

Pp

Puckdropper

in reply to "Galanw" on 04/09/2005 2:33 PM

04/09/2005 6:40 PM

"Galanw" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:

> My old Delta lathe refused to start a day after turning a 11" bowl
> without incident. Before I try to distort my body in order to remove
> the motor from the metal cabinet, I thought I would bypass the on/off
> switch to see whether it is a switch problem. But, I am confounded by
> the 4 wire leads. There is white, black, red and orange. An arrow
> labeled "line" points to the white (and the black is next to it).
> There is an arrow labeled "load" pointing to the red (and the orange
> is along side that).
>
>
>
> Which lines do I cross in order to get power to the motor to
> determine whether it is working? Everything rotates freely by hand,
> and I can see no reset button on the motor. The label is also obscured
> by the mounting.
>
>
>
> TIA for help.
>
>
>
> Galanw
>
>
>
>
>

Before you go about bypassing a switch, you should invest $10 in a
multimeter. You can UNPLUG the lathe and use the ohms setting to test
for continuity. With a switch like you have, there's most likely the 120
VAC in and 120 VAC out. Each is two pairs and at least one set (between
out and in) must be off (no continuity) when the switch is off.

I wouldn't ever bypass a switch in anything that does more than turn on a
light (or computer--but I'll hurt it before it hurts me.)

Puckdropper

--
www.uncreativelabs.net

Old computers are getting to be a lost art. Here at Uncreative Labs, we
still enjoy using the old computers. Sometimes we want to see how far a
particular system can go, other times we use a stock system to remind
ourselves of what we once had.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

Jj

"Jim"

in reply to "Galanw" on 04/09/2005 2:33 PM

04/09/2005 7:26 PM


"Galanw" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My old Delta lathe refused to start a day after turning a 11" bowl without
> incident. Before I try to distort my body in order to remove the motor
> from the metal cabinet, I thought I would bypass the on/off switch to see
> whether it is a switch problem. But, I am confounded by the 4 wire leads.
> There is white, black, red and orange. An arrow labeled "line" points to
> the white (and the black is next to it). There is an arrow labeled "load"
> pointing to the red (and the orange is along side that).
The "load" is the motor. The "line" is the cord which you plug into the
wall. Check continuity with a multimeter. Always test this with the unit
unplugged from the wall..
Jim


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