I have this older Radial Arms Saw, that I like to sell, but I'm afraid to,
because I have a problem with the motor turning over. Usually I take things
apart, and then I don't know how to put it back together. The first time I
tried it, I turned the on/off switch on several times, and it sounded better
each time, and then the motor finally ran. This time, the wire got kind of
hot and I noticed a little smoke coming from the switch. Very very little
though, and it blew the house fuse (20 amp). Now I'm scared to try anything.
Can I get some advise please. I will try to take it apart, but this time, I
will be careful. I'm not a Klotz, but I'm an old fart and my memory is
getting bad. As far as where things go after I took it apart. Here is the
nomenclature of the motor: 3/4 hp 10.7 amp cy 60/50 Model # 5KC35NGI39 (I
think I can read General Electric)I think the I in front of the 39 is really
an I, but it could be a 1 as well, but it is a pretty big letter. I'm not
sure if this helps, but my inclination, is to loosen the 4 long screws that
hold together the case of the motor, then I'm lost, and probably would screw
things up at that point. The side of the compound arm says Derra -James
model 900, and the front of the arm it says Toolcraft. Many thanks in
advance...........Grandpa (Opa) Peter
"Chris" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "PeterM" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>I have this older Radial Arms Saw, that I like to sell, but I'm afraid to,
>>because I have a problem with the motor turning over. Usually I take
>>things apart, and then I don't know how to put it back together. The first
>>time I tried it, I turned the on/off switch on several times, and it
>>sounded better each time, and then the motor finally ran. This time, the
>>wire got kind of hot and I noticed a little smoke coming from the switch.
>>Very very little though, and it blew the house fuse (20 amp). Now I'm
>>scared to try anything. Can I get some advise please. I will try to take
>>it apart, but this time, I will be careful. I'm not a Klotz, but I'm an
>>old fart and my memory is getting bad. As far as where things go after I
>>took it apart. Here is the nomenclature of the motor: 3/4 hp 10.7 amp cy
>>60/50 Model # 5KC35NGI39 (I think I can read General Electric)I think the
>>I in front of the 39 is really an I, but it could be a 1 as well, but it
>>is a pretty big letter. I'm not sure if this helps, but my inclination, is
>>to loosen the 4 long screws that hold together the case of the motor, then
>>I'm lost, and probably would screw things up at that point. The side of
>>the compound arm says Derra -James model 900, and the front of the arm it
>>says Toolcraft. Many thanks in advance...........Grandpa (Opa) Peter
>
> Peter,
> Quick question. Are there any caps on the motor? You would see somewhat
> large bulges on the motor it self.
>
> If so, my guess the cap is shot. Or at least this would be my first
> guess. If the motor does run fine after the initial smoke, than that would
> almost confirm it.
>
>
> --
> Chris
I agree with Chris. Toolcraft was a Montgomery Ward brand wasn't it?
However, my advice is to remove the motor and take it to an electric motor
shop. At least they can test without risk of serious injury.
Jim
>
> If you can read this, thank a teacher. If it is in English, thank a
> soldier. If it is in ebonics, thank your Congressman.
>
PeterM wrote:
> I have this older Radial Arms Saw, that I like to sell, but I'm afraid
> to, because I have a problem with the motor turning over. Usually I take
> things apart, and then I don't know how to put it back together. The
> first time I tried it, I turned the on/off switch on several times, and
> it sounded better each time, and then the motor finally ran. This time,
> the wire got kind of hot and I noticed a little smoke coming from the
> switch. Very very little though, and it blew the house fuse (20 amp).
> Now I'm scared to try anything. Can I get some advise please. I will try
> to take it apart, but this time, I will be careful. I'm not a Klotz, but
> I'm an old fart and my memory is getting bad. As far as where things go
> after I took it apart. Here is the nomenclature of the motor: 3/4 hp
> 10.7 amp cy 60/50 Model # 5KC35NGI39 (I think I can read General
> Electric)I think the I in front of the 39 is really an I, but it could
> be a 1 as well, but it is a pretty big letter. I'm not sure if this
> helps, but my inclination, is to loosen the 4 long screws that hold
> together the case of the motor, then I'm lost, and probably would screw
> things up at that point. The side of the compound arm says Derra -James
> model 900, and the front of the arm it says Toolcraft. Many thanks in
> advance...........Grandpa (Opa) Peter
You tweaked my curiosity muscle so I did a bit of research and came up
with the following from the toolkraft web page:
==========
ToolKraft of 700 Plainfield St. Chicopee, Massachusetts closed it's
facility manufacturing facility in 1984. During its 50 plus year tenure
in the Power Tool Industry they manufactured products under many names.
Some of the brands they were responsible for are ToolKraft, Darra James,
all the Power Craft - Montgomery Wards power tools such as the Table
Saws, Drill Presses, Sanders, Band Saws and Radial Arm Saws also a
Shaper and Jointer (prior to 1980) under the DeWalt brand and B&D for
Black and Decker or other brands bearing model numbers with the prefix
"THS".
If you are looking for parts for any of these machines or other
woodworking machines and not sure, give us a call at 860-623-1781 or
send email to PARTS @ TOOLKRAFT
================
googly yours,
jo4hn
Jim wrote:
>
> I agree with Chris. Toolcraft was a Montgomery Ward brand wasn't it?
> However, my advice is to remove the motor and take it to an electric motor
> shop. At least they can test without risk of serious injury.
Believe it was PowerKraft that was Monkey Wards house brand.
Toolcraft/Toolkraft sounds like something out of one of the BORGS
Hello Chris...........Thanks for your kind answer............I went and
looked all over, but no bulges anywhere, the motor looks beautiful and
restful. The electrical cords coming out of the motor seem a little loose,
but I can't figure out how to check the connections. IS there an opening,
under the plate that holds the model #. The electrical wires and the plate
are 3 inches apart on the motor, usually, there is an opening right there
where the wire goes in, but not on this original motor..........Peter
"Chris" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "PeterM" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>I have this older Radial Arms Saw, that I like to sell, but I'm afraid to,
>>because I have a problem with the motor turning over. Usually I take
>>things apart, and then I don't know how to put it back together. The first
>>time I tried it, I turned the on/off switch on several times, and it
>>sounded better each time, and then the motor finally ran. This time, the
>>wire got kind of hot and I noticed a little smoke coming from the switch.
>>Very very little though, and it blew the house fuse (20 amp). Now I'm
>>scared to try anything. Can I get some advise please. I will try to take
>>it apart, but this time, I will be careful. I'm not a Klotz, but I'm an
>>old fart and my memory is getting bad. As far as where things go after I
>>took it apart. Here is the nomenclature of the motor: 3/4 hp 10.7 amp cy
>>60/50 Model # 5KC35NGI39 (I think I can read General Electric)I think the
>>I in front of the 39 is really an I, but it could be a 1 as well, but it
>>is a pretty big letter. I'm not sure if this helps, but my inclination, is
>>to loosen the 4 long screws that hold together the case of the motor, then
>>I'm lost, and probably would screw things up at that point. The side of
>>the compound arm says Derra -James model 900, and the front of the arm it
>>says Toolcraft. Many thanks in advance...........Grandpa (Opa) Peter
>
> Peter,
> Quick question. Are there any caps on the motor? You would see somewhat
> large bulges on the motor it self.
>
> If so, my guess the cap is shot. Or at least this would be my first
> guess. If the motor does run fine after the initial smoke, than that would
> almost confirm it.
>
>
> --
> Chris
>
> If you can read this, thank a teacher. If it is in English, thank a
> soldier. If it is in ebonics, thank your Congressman.
>
"PeterM" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have this older Radial Arms Saw, that I like to sell, but I'm afraid to,
>because I have a problem with the motor turning over. Usually I take things
>apart, and then I don't know how to put it back together.
What I do is have a clean working area and lay the parts down in sequential
order and in relative position as you are removing it just like what you see
in a parts diagram where all the parts are shown and connected together by
dotted lines. If you have a digital camera take pictures as you are
dissembling it and take it at different angles, mark the critical parts as
to which way it goes together, take notes and draw diagrams as you go along.
I often take things apart then come back to it a year later although not
intentional - that then becomes a challenge.
"PeterM" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have this older Radial Arms Saw, that I like to sell, but I'm afraid to,
>because I have a problem with the motor turning over. Usually I take things
>apart, and then I don't know how to put it back together. The first time I
>tried it, I turned the on/off switch on several times, and it sounded
>better each time, and then the motor finally ran. This time, the wire got
>kind of hot and I noticed a little smoke coming from the switch. Very very
>little though, and it blew the house fuse (20 amp). Now I'm scared to try
>anything. Can I get some advise please. I will try to take it apart, but
>this time, I will be careful. I'm not a Klotz, but I'm an old fart and my
>memory is getting bad. As far as where things go after I took it apart.
>Here is the nomenclature of the motor: 3/4 hp 10.7 amp cy 60/50 Model #
>5KC35NGI39 (I think I can read General Electric)I think the I in front of
>the 39 is really an I, but it could be a 1 as well, but it is a pretty big
>letter. I'm not sure if this helps, but my inclination, is to loosen the 4
>long screws that hold together the case of the motor, then I'm lost, and
>probably would screw things up at that point. The side of the compound arm
>says Derra -James model 900, and the front of the arm it says Toolcraft.
>Many thanks in advance...........Grandpa (Opa) Peter
Peter,
Quick question. Are there any caps on the motor? You would see somewhat
large bulges on the motor it self.
If so, my guess the cap is shot. Or at least this would be my first guess.
If the motor does run fine after the initial smoke, than that would almost
confirm it.
--
Chris
If you can read this, thank a teacher. If it is in English, thank a
soldier. If it is in ebonics, thank your Congressman.
<<Believe it was PowerKraft that was Monkey Wards house brand.
Toolcraft/Toolkraft sounds like something out of one of the BORGS>>
PowrKraft was Montgomery Ward's in-house tool brand. Toolkraft manufactured
them.
Lee
--
To e-mail, replace "bucketofspam" with "dleegordon"
_________________________________
Lee Gordon
http://www.leegordonproductions.com