I went with the Narex 3mm:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V922QT6/
I got the chisel today and have been in the shop trying it out. My
concerns about flexibility were addressed in the design: It is
significantly thicker than it is wide. I did not notice any deflection
or bending.
I was able to successfully square off the ends on my practice box joints.
I found I could keep my cuts accurate by scoring a line where I wanted to
place the chisel, then placing the edge on it to make the cut. I think
I'd get a little more accuracy with a jig the back of the chisel would
register against, so the chances of accidentally twisting the chisel are
minimized. I'll probably try that when I go to build my case.
Flattening/Sharpening was decent out of the box. It took just a few
seconds on my Work Sharp to put a mirror finish on the bevel using the
highest grit paper. I'm used to needing to start at 120 and slowly work
my way up, but this was ready to go.
After about 25-30 operations, I noticed that the closer to 90 degrees the
chisel was the cleaner and easier the cut would be. Also, it did not
feel like the chisel needed shapening.
This is a tool you can do good work with. It won't hold you back, but it
also doesn't push you along either. I wouldn't buy one in this size if I
didn't need one, but if you need one it's worth considering this one.
Puckdropper
Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> I was able to successfully square off the ends on my practice box
> joints. I found I could keep my cuts accurate by scoring a line where
> I wanted to place the chisel, then placing the edge on it to make the
> cut. I think I'd get a little more accuracy with a jig the back of
> the chisel would register against, so the chances of accidentally
> twisting the chisel are minimized. I'll probably try that when I go
> to build my case.
Nice review.
Using a marking knife or marking gauge to cut a line where
you intend to place the chisel is a good practice, even a
very shallow line is enough to catch the chisel so you can
feel when you're on the line. Plus, if you leave the lines
on "hidden" parts (like the sides of drawers), when people
see them they'll know it was made by hand craftsmanship.
Some people will clamp a piece of square stock to the work
to act as a guide for a chisel. I generally don't, in most
cases it's OK to undercut a little, and I can freehand well
enough to keep the error in that direction.
John