On Fri, 13 May 2016 07:30:58 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 9:21:23 AM UTC-5, Spalted Walt wrote:
>> Bob Villa <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> >On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 7:46:06 AM UTC-5, Spalted Walt wrote:
>> >> Bob Villa <[email protected]> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> >...this is an old saw. Sears and other sites say brushes are unavailable...has anyone found another source? (Bob Villa doesn't know everything!)
>> >> >Thanks.
>> >>
>> >> http://www.ebay.com/itm/191871428040
>> >
>> >"Replacement, not OEM, for NLA Delta motor brushes part number 1344019"
>> >(OEM part no. for 36-220)
>>
>> "Many sold with positive feedback."
>>
>> http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback&userid=tomgua&iid=191871428040&ssPageName=VIP:feedback&ftab=FeedbackAsSeller&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2560
>
>Thanks Walt, but if I want one that doesn't fit...I can get it locally! The proper size will allow safe operation of the saw. Otherwise it won't stop the blade on trigger release.
If you read the spec's at the bottom there was a note that some filing
might be necessary. They gave a few reasons for it. All very true.
It also has nothing with the trigger release. If the brushes don't
float it will either work for a short time (until they wear down) or
if no contact is made by the brushes it simply will not work, trigger
or no trigger.
The other problem you will probably have is that if it is that old and
well used the armature will be now grooved and no new ones will fit to
groove that the other brushes made. So it will need to be trimmed with
a lathe and then the mica between the copper will have to be cut out
as well.
Bottom line, if you are clueless about this, then take it to a local
motor shop for repair so that you can get full Hp usage out of it, but
then if you bought a reasonable quality motor replacement it will not
cost you much more and you'll save on operating costs, plus you'll
have new sealed bearings instead of what you have now.
On Fri, 13 May 2016 15:54:59 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 5:38:25 PM UTC-5, OFWW wrote:
>> On Fri, 13 May 2016 09:57:18 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>
>> >The bottom line here, so far, is there are none available. Mine, at this point, has decent brushes but doesn't stop as it should. Folks have suggested new brushes and blowing out the sawdust. It would be nice if it was safer to use...as new stuff tends to be made cheaper and doesn't last.
>>
>> Brushes have absolutely nothing to do with slowing down.
>> New systems sometimes will have brakes built in, if you buy a better
>> brand.
>
>
>Here is a quote from page 8 of the DeWalt DW708 Sliding Compound Miter Saw instruction manual: "If (the brake will not function properly), turn the saw on and off four or five times. If the brake still does not stop the blade in about 3 seconds, the problem may be worn brushes. Replace the brushes...and try the saw again."
>(I don't have manual for mine, but I will try to find one)
The "If (the brake will not function properly), turn the saw on and
off four or five times" indicates the switch problem is a more common
cause than the brushes.
On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 12:56:07 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
> On 5/13/2016 11:57 AM, Bob Villa wrote:
> > On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 11:31:10 AM UTC-5, OFWW wrote:
> >
> >> Bottom line, if you are clueless about this, then take it to a local
> >> motor shop for repair so that you can get full Hp usage out of it, but
> >> then if you bought a reasonable quality motor replacement it will not
> >> cost you much more and you'll save on operating costs, plus you'll
> >> have new sealed bearings instead of what you have now.
> >
> > The bottom line here, so far, is there are none available. Mine, at thi=
s point, has decent brushes but doesn't stop as it should. Folks have sugge=
sted new brushes and blowing out the sawdust. It would be nice if it was sa=
fer to use...as new stuff tends to be made cheaper and doesn't last.
> >
>=20
>=20
> One might think that if the saw starts and runs well that the brushes=20
> would not be the culprit for the auto brake.
>=20
> FWIW I have a Delta CPMS that is getting very long in the tooth. The=20
> auto brake never worked consistently but if I squeezed the=20
> trigger/switch a time or two as it was coasting down the brake would=20
> kick in.
>=20
> It may very well be the switch that needs to be cleaned out.
Thanks!
On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 6:58:15 PM UTC-5, Norm Abram wrote:
> On Fri, 13 May 2016 15:11:15 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >Hi Norm, haven't seen you since I left the show <wink>!
>
> Yea, the show had to let you go because of your inability to measure in imperial units,
> the way God intended <grin>!
>
> >Thanks, all I can say is...the ones in mine are 17mm X 7mm X 15?mm.
>
> DIMENSIONS NEW ARE: 0.276" X 0.669" X 0.673"
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/321206838894
>
> Is this you from '09, Bob?
> https://forums.ereplacementparts.com/power-tool-repair/1922-delta-miter-saw-model-36-220-type-2-a.html
With your measurements confirming and adding to the accuracy of mine...I found brushes on eBay. Changing them restored the dynamic braking! 8^) Thanks again!
On Fri, 13 May 2016 09:57:18 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 11:31:10 AM UTC-5, OFWW wrote:
>
>> Bottom line, if you are clueless about this, then take it to a local
>> motor shop for repair so that you can get full Hp usage out of it, but
>> then if you bought a reasonable quality motor replacement it will not
>> cost you much more and you'll save on operating costs, plus you'll
>> have new sealed bearings instead of what you have now.
>
>The bottom line here, so far, is there are none available. Mine, at this point, has decent brushes but doesn't stop as it should. Folks have suggested new brushes and blowing out the sawdust. It would be nice if it was safer to use...as new stuff tends to be made cheaper and doesn't last.
Bob, these brushes fit my 36-220 perfectly, without any need of filing:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brush-set-for-Delta-saws-5-8-x-1-4-face-motor-brushes-two-brushes-/191871428040
http://www.normstools.com/images/normstools/36-220.shtml
Bob Villa <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>
> Thanks Walt, but if I want one that doesn't fit...I can get it
> locally! The proper size will allow safe operation of the saw.
> Otherwise it won't stop the blade on trigger release.
Have you tried a local motor rebuild shop or a brush supplier?
It won't be cheap, unless you get lucky and find one of a standard size.
Puckdropper
Brewster <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
> Bingo!
>
> My Delta CMS had the same problem. The motor brake quit.
>
> When the trigger is released, the brushes are effectively shorted by the
> switch to act as a brake. Cleaning the switch fixed it (for a while,
> grrrr...)
>
>
> -BR
>
My Kobalt never did work properly. Reseating the brushes occasionally
helps, but it still doesn't work every time. So maybe it's the switch?
If I play with the switch, the brake does activate. Even if I don't,
though, it's a 15-30 second spin down so not too bad.
Puckdropper
Bob Villa <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>They say they're for that saw, but 1/4" is quite different from 7mm.
7mm = .275" = file
HTH
On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 6:58:15 PM UTC-5, Norm Abram wrote:
> On Fri, 13 May 2016 15:11:15 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >Hi Norm, haven't seen you since I left the show <wink>!
>
> Yea, the show had to let you go because of your inability to measure in imperial units,
> the way God intended <grin>!
>
> >Thanks, all I can say is...the ones in mine are 17mm X 7mm X 15?mm.
>
> DIMENSIONS NEW ARE: 0.276" X 0.669" X 0.673"
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/321206838894
>
> Is this you from '09, Bob?
> https://forums.ereplacementparts.com/power-tool-repair/1922-delta-miter-saw-model-36-220-type-2-a.html
Norm, are those measurements from the OEM brushes or the ones from eBay?
No, that wasn't me, but the information was useful. Thanks!
On 5/13/2016 10:30 AM, Bob Villa wrote:
>> http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback&userid=tomgua&iid=191871428040&ssPageName=VIP:feedback&ftab=FeedbackAsSeller&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2560
>
> Thanks Walt, but if I want one that doesn't fit...I can get it locally! The proper size will allow safe operation of the saw. Otherwise it won't stop the blade on trigger release.
>
You may or may not be correct. If it comes down to scrapping the saw or
risking $13 I'd give it a try.
Brushes are not NASA spec devices anyway.
On Fri, 13 May 2016 15:54:59 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 5:38:25 PM UTC-5, OFWW wrote:
>> On Fri, 13 May 2016 09:57:18 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>
>> >The bottom line here, so far, is there are none available. Mine, at this point, has decent brushes but doesn't stop as it should. Folks have suggested new brushes and blowing out the sawdust. It would be nice if it was safer to use...as new stuff tends to be made cheaper and doesn't last.
>>
>> Brushes have absolutely nothing to do with slowing down.
>> New systems sometimes will have brakes built in, if you buy a better
>> brand.
>
>
>Here is a quote from page 8 of the DeWalt DW708 Sliding Compound Miter Saw instruction manual: "If (the brake will not function properly), turn the saw on and off four or five times. If the brake still does not stop the blade in about 3 seconds, the problem may be worn brushes. Replace the brushes...and try the saw again."
>(I don't have manual for mine, but I will try to find one)
My apologies Bob, I assumed that when you said old saw and unavailable
saw that you meant a table or radial arm saw. And that if the brushes
were bad then it wouldn't run. Now you are speaking as if it does have
a brake (newer) and it is possibly a sliding Compound saw.
So I jumped to conclusions that I shouldn't have. Perhaps the next
time when you post you could include all this information up front?
At this point are you even sure you have a braking system on it?
On Fri, 13 May 2016 06:39:50 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 7:46:06 AM UTC-5, Spalted Walt wrote:
>> Bob Villa <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> >...this is an old saw. Sears and other sites say brushes are unavailable...has anyone found another source? (Bob Villa doesn't know everything!)
>> >Thanks.
>>
>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/191871428040
>
>They say they're for that saw, but 1/4" is quite different from 7mm.
Ans where does it say the original brushes are 0.276 inches??
And did the e-bay seller neasure with a micrometer, a caliper, a
ruler, or a tape measure? They are listed as replacement brushes for
Delta products including the model in question.
On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 12:56:41 PM UTC-5, Norm Abram wrote:
> On Fri, 13 May 2016 09:57:18 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa <[email protected]=
> wrote:
>=20
> >On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 11:31:10 AM UTC-5, OFWW wrote:
> >
> >> Bottom line, if you are clueless about this, then take it to a local
> >> motor shop for repair so that you can get full Hp usage out of it, but
> >> then if you bought a reasonable quality motor replacement it will not
> >> cost you much more and you'll save on operating costs, plus you'll
> >> have new sealed bearings instead of what you have now.
> >
> >The bottom line here, so far, is there are none available. Mine, at this=
point, has decent brushes but doesn't stop as it should. Folks have sugges=
ted new brushes and blowing out the sawdust. It would be nice if it was saf=
er to use...as new stuff tends to be made cheaper and doesn't last.
>=20
> Bob, these brushes fit my 36-220 perfectly, without any need of filing:
>=20
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brush-set-for-Delta-saws-5-8-x-1-4-face-motor-bru=
shes-two-brushes-/191871428040
>=20
> http://www.normstools.com/images/normstools/36-220.shtml
Hi Norm, haven't seen you since I left the show <wink>! Thanks, all I can s=
ay is...the ones in mine are 17mm X 7mm X 15?mm.
On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 9:21:23 AM UTC-5, Spalted Walt wrote:
> Bob Villa <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 7:46:06 AM UTC-5, Spalted Walt wrote:
> >> Bob Villa <[email protected]> wrote:
> >>
> >> >...this is an old saw. Sears and other sites say brushes are unavailable...has anyone found another source? (Bob Villa doesn't know everything!)
> >> >Thanks.
> >>
> >> http://www.ebay.com/itm/191871428040
> >
> >"Replacement, not OEM, for NLA Delta motor brushes part number 1344019"
> >(OEM part no. for 36-220)
>
> "Many sold with positive feedback."
>
> http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback&userid=tomgua&iid=191871428040&ssPageName=VIP:feedback&ftab=FeedbackAsSeller&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2560
Thanks Walt, but if I want one that doesn't fit...I can get it locally! The proper size will allow safe operation of the saw. Otherwise it won't stop the blade on trigger release.
On 5/13/2016 11:57 AM, Bob Villa wrote:
> On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 11:31:10 AM UTC-5, OFWW wrote:
>
>> Bottom line, if you are clueless about this, then take it to a local
>> motor shop for repair so that you can get full Hp usage out of it, but
>> then if you bought a reasonable quality motor replacement it will not
>> cost you much more and you'll save on operating costs, plus you'll
>> have new sealed bearings instead of what you have now.
>
> The bottom line here, so far, is there are none available. Mine, at this point, has decent brushes but doesn't stop as it should. Folks have suggested new brushes and blowing out the sawdust. It would be nice if it was safer to use...as new stuff tends to be made cheaper and doesn't last.
>
One might think that if the saw starts and runs well that the brushes
would not be the culprit for the auto brake.
FWIW I have a Delta CPMS that is getting very long in the tooth. The
auto brake never worked consistently but if I squeezed the
trigger/switch a time or two as it was coasting down the brake would
kick in.
It may very well be the switch that needs to be cleaned out.
On 5/19/2016 12:47 PM, Bob Villa wrote:
> On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 6:58:15 PM UTC-5, Norm Abram wrote:
>> On Fri, 13 May 2016 15:11:15 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Norm, haven't seen you since I left the show <wink>!
>>
>> Yea, the show had to let you go because of your inability to measure in imperial units,
>> the way God intended <grin>!
>>
>>> Thanks, all I can say is...the ones in mine are 17mm X 7mm X 15?mm.
>>
>> DIMENSIONS NEW ARE: 0.276" X 0.669" X 0.673"
>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/321206838894
>>
>> Is this you from '09, Bob?
>> https://forums.ereplacementparts.com/power-tool-repair/1922-delta-miter-saw-model-36-220-type-2-a.html
>
> With your measurements confirming and adding to the accuracy of mine...I found brushes on eBay. Changing them restored the dynamic braking! 8^) Thanks again!
>
Good to hear BUT! Keep in mind you may have a short term fix. Unless
your old brushes were actually almost worn out there was probably a
cause for the brushes to fail prematurely.
Keep us posted!
On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 5:55:02 PM UTC-5, Bob Villa wrote:
> On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 5:38:25 PM UTC-5, OFWW wrote:
> > On Fri, 13 May 2016 09:57:18 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa
> > <[email protected]> wrote:
> >=20
>=20
> > >The bottom line here, so far, is there are none available. Mine, at th=
is point, has decent brushes but doesn't stop as it should. Folks have sugg=
ested new brushes and blowing out the sawdust. It would be nice if it was s=
afer to use...as new stuff tends to be made cheaper and doesn't last.
> >=20
> > Brushes have absolutely nothing to do with slowing down.=20
> > New systems sometimes will have brakes built in, if you buy a better
> > brand.
>=20
>=20
> Here is a quote from page 8 of the DeWalt DW708 Sliding Compound Miter Sa=
w instruction manual: "If (the brake will not function properly), turn the =
saw on and off four or five times. If the brake still does not stop the bla=
de in about 3 seconds, the problem may be worn brushes. Replace the brushes=
...and try the saw again."
> (I don't have manual for mine, but I will try to find one)
I have printed-out the manual for the 36-220, and there are no instructions=
for the brake problem.
On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 7:46:06 AM UTC-5, Spalted Walt wrote:
> Bob Villa <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >...this is an old saw. Sears and other sites say brushes are unavailable...has anyone found another source? (Bob Villa doesn't know everything!)
> >Thanks.
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/191871428040
They say they're for that saw, but 1/4" is quite different from 7mm.
On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 5:38:25 PM UTC-5, OFWW wrote:
> On Fri, 13 May 2016 09:57:18 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>=20
> >The bottom line here, so far, is there are none available. Mine, at this=
point, has decent brushes but doesn't stop as it should. Folks have sugges=
ted new brushes and blowing out the sawdust. It would be nice if it was saf=
er to use...as new stuff tends to be made cheaper and doesn't last.
>=20
> Brushes have absolutely nothing to do with slowing down.=20
> New systems sometimes will have brakes built in, if you buy a better
> brand.
Here is a quote from page 8 of the DeWalt DW708 Sliding Compound Miter Saw =
instruction manual: "If (the brake will not function properly), turn the sa=
w on and off four or five times. If the brake still does not stop the blade=
in about 3 seconds, the problem may be worn brushes. Replace the brushes..=
.and try the saw again."
(I don't have manual for mine, but I will try to find one)
On Saturday, May 14, 2016 at 9:14:50 AM UTC-5, Brewster wrote:
> On 5/13/16 11:55 AM, Leon wrote:
> > It may very well be the switch that needs to be cleaned out.
>
>
> Bingo!
>
> My Delta CMS had the same problem. The motor brake quit.
>
> When the trigger is released, the brushes are effectively shorted by the
> switch to act as a brake. Cleaning the switch fixed it (for a while,
> grrrr...)
>
>
> -BR
Thanks, as far as I know, the switch is also obsolete!
On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 7:46:06 AM UTC-5, Spalted Walt wrote:
> Bob Villa <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >...this is an old saw. Sears and other sites say brushes are unavailable...has anyone found another source? (Bob Villa doesn't know everything!)
> >Thanks.
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/191871428040
"Replacement, not OEM, for NLA Delta motor brushes part number 1344019"
(OEM part no. for 36-220)
On Sat, 14 May 2016 08:32:27 -0700, OFWW <[email protected]>
wrote:
>He could have looked it up for himself instead of the merry go round
>of his replies. Took me all of 20 seconds to do.
>
>When the OP says Sears, I assume that is what he means regardless of
>the subject post.
Welcome to the troll go round, note the names.
On Sat, 14 May 2016 05:08:22 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Saturday, May 14, 2016 at 12:00:08 AM UTC-5, OFWW wrote:
>> On Fri, 13 May 2016 15:54:59 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa
>
>> Perhaps next time you could include all the missing info right up
>> front?
>
>Title has all the info: Compound Miter Saw, and the model? Isn't 23 yrs old for a power tool?
'93? Not particularly old, no. My RAS is almost 20 years older than
that. I bought it new, so it's not like I buy antique tools.
On Sat, 14 May 2016 05:08:22 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Saturday, May 14, 2016 at 12:00:08 AM UTC-5, OFWW wrote:
>> On Fri, 13 May 2016 15:54:59 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa
>
>> Perhaps next time you could include all the missing info right up
>> front?
>
>Title has all the info: Compound Miter Saw, and the model? Isn't 23 yrs old for a power tool?
It's a lot newer than a lot of mine. For tools made in the eighties
or before, 23 yerars is not old at all. It is "the prime of life". For
most tools today, thinking about them in use 23 years from now is
dilusional.
On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 11:31:10 AM UTC-5, OFWW wrote:
> Bottom line, if you are clueless about this, then take it to a local
> motor shop for repair so that you can get full Hp usage out of it, but
> then if you bought a reasonable quality motor replacement it will not
> cost you much more and you'll save on operating costs, plus you'll
> have new sealed bearings instead of what you have now.
The bottom line here, so far, is there are none available. Mine, at this po=
int, has decent brushes but doesn't stop as it should. Folks have suggested=
new brushes and blowing out the sawdust. It would be nice if it was safer =
to use...as new stuff tends to be made cheaper and doesn't last.
On Sat, 14 May 2016 08:14:47 -0600, Brewster <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 5/13/16 11:55 AM, Leon wrote:
>> On 5/13/2016 11:57 AM, Bob Villa wrote:
>>> On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 11:31:10 AM UTC-5, OFWW wrote:
>>>
>>>> Bottom line, if you are clueless about this, then take it to a local
>>>> motor shop for repair so that you can get full Hp usage out of it, but
>>>> then if you bought a reasonable quality motor replacement it will not
>>>> cost you much more and you'll save on operating costs, plus you'll
>>>> have new sealed bearings instead of what you have now.
>>>
>>> The bottom line here, so far, is there are none available. Mine, at
>>> this point, has decent brushes but doesn't stop as it should. Folks
>>> have suggested new brushes and blowing out the sawdust. It would be
>>> nice if it was safer to use...as new stuff tends to be made cheaper
>>> and doesn't last.
>>>
>>
>>
>> One might think that if the saw starts and runs well that the brushes
>> would not be the culprit for the auto brake.
>>
>> FWIW I have a Delta CPMS that is getting very long in the tooth. The
>> auto brake never worked consistently but if I squeezed the
>> trigger/switch a time or two as it was coasting down the brake would
>> kick in.
>>
>> It may very well be the switch that needs to be cleaned out.
>
>
>Bingo!
>
>My Delta CMS had the same problem. The motor brake quit.
>
>When the trigger is released, the brushes are effectively shorted by the
>switch to act as a brake. Cleaning the switch fixed it (for a while,
>grrrr...)
>
>
>-BR
A new switch, or a modification to use a sealed relay to control both
power and braking - with the relay operated by the switch, will solve
the problem over 90% of the time. That switch operates under extrreme
conditions of dirt and vibration and is subject to atnmospheric
conditions dust, sweat, dirt and oils that are very destructive - and
the contacts NEED to handle not only the running current, the starting
surges AND the brake current (which is often as high as or higher than
the starting current)
Same problem on electric lawn mowers. The switch is the problem in the
vast majority of cases - and the whole mlawnmower gets sent to the
curb because of an inedequately designed switch.
On Fri, 13 May 2016 06:39:50 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 7:46:06 AM UTC-5, Spalted Walt wrote:
>> Bob Villa <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> >...this is an old saw. Sears and other sites say brushes are unavailable...has anyone found another source? (Bob Villa doesn't know everything!)
>> >Thanks.
>>
>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/191871428040
>
>They say they're for that saw, but 1/4" is quite different from 7mm.
Yep .65 of a millimeter to big.
Bob Villa <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 7:46:06 AM UTC-5, Spalted Walt wrote:
>> Bob Villa <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> >...this is an old saw. Sears and other sites say brushes are unavailable...has anyone found another source? (Bob Villa doesn't know everything!)
>> >Thanks.
>>
>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/191871428040
>
>"Replacement, not OEM, for NLA Delta motor brushes part number 1344019"
>(OEM part no. for 36-220)
"Many sold with positive feedback."
http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback&userid=tomgua&iid=191871428040&ssPageName=VIP:feedback&ftab=FeedbackAsSeller&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2560
On Sat, 14 May 2016 20:02:08 -0400, Ed Pawlowski <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 5/14/2016 5:09 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>
>>
>> The switch from a newer model may fit perfectly - or may require
>> modifying a connector, or simply using a longer screw (I've had that
>> happen too)
>>
>
>
>Another post with missing information. Where do you get the screw?
>Does it have to be Delta OEM? What if it is metric and I don't have a
>metric screwdriver. Can you post a link to a website with a work-around?
In the case of my milwaukee cutoff saw it was the opposite - The
original handle parts were no longer available - so I installed the
handle from the next version of the saw, and needed the screw from the
old switch - if I remeber correctly which was missing from the broken
handle. IIRC I ordered both screws because I didn't know which would
be required. The new handle specified a different switch but the old
one fit
I could have likely gotten away with a salvaged or hardware screw and
a bit of tinkering but the OEM screws were available for something
like a ridiculous $1.25 each .
On Fri, 13 May 2016 15:54:59 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 5:38:25 PM UTC-5, OFWW wrote:
>> On Fri, 13 May 2016 09:57:18 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>
>> >The bottom line here, so far, is there are none available. Mine, at this point, has decent brushes but doesn't stop as it should. Folks have suggested new brushes and blowing out the sawdust. It would be nice if it was safer to use...as new stuff tends to be made cheaper and doesn't last.
>>
>> Brushes have absolutely nothing to do with slowing down.
>> New systems sometimes will have brakes built in, if you buy a better
>> brand.
>
>
>Here is a quote from page 8 of the DeWalt DW708 Sliding Compound Miter Saw instruction manual: "If (the brake will not function properly), turn the saw on and off four or five times. If the brake still does not stop the blade in about 3 seconds, the problem may be worn brushes. Replace the brushes...and try the saw again."
>(I don't have manual for mine, but I will try to find one)
My apologies, I assumed you said old as in antiquity, and the parts
were no longer available. Now you speak of a braking system, newer and
so on.
Perhaps next time you could include all the missing info right up
front?
On Fri, 13 May 2016 15:11:15 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa <[email protected]> wrote:
>Hi Norm, haven't seen you since I left the show <wink>!
Yea, the show had to let you go because of your inability to measure in imperial units,
the way God intended <grin>!
>Thanks, all I can say is...the ones in mine are 17mm X 7mm X 15?mm.
DIMENSIONS NEW ARE: 0.276" X 0.669" X 0.673"
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321206838894
Is this you from '09, Bob?
https://forums.ereplacementparts.com/power-tool-repair/1922-delta-miter-saw-model-36-220-type-2-a.html
On 13 May 2016 16:27:27 GMT, Puckdropper
<puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>Bob Villa <[email protected]> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>>
>> Thanks Walt, but if I want one that doesn't fit...I can get it
>> locally! The proper size will allow safe operation of the saw.
>> Otherwise it won't stop the blade on trigger release.
>
>Have you tried a local motor rebuild shop or a brush supplier?
>
>It won't be cheap, unless you get lucky and find one of a standard size.
>
>Puckdropper
They usually stock various sizes, then file to fit if necessary.
Usually a one hour minimum and they will clean it at the same time.
Most will also megger (meg-ohm) the motor to check for life
expectancy.
On 5/13/16 11:55 AM, Leon wrote:
> On 5/13/2016 11:57 AM, Bob Villa wrote:
>> On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 11:31:10 AM UTC-5, OFWW wrote:
>>
>>> Bottom line, if you are clueless about this, then take it to a local
>>> motor shop for repair so that you can get full Hp usage out of it, but
>>> then if you bought a reasonable quality motor replacement it will not
>>> cost you much more and you'll save on operating costs, plus you'll
>>> have new sealed bearings instead of what you have now.
>>
>> The bottom line here, so far, is there are none available. Mine, at
>> this point, has decent brushes but doesn't stop as it should. Folks
>> have suggested new brushes and blowing out the sawdust. It would be
>> nice if it was safer to use...as new stuff tends to be made cheaper
>> and doesn't last.
>>
>
>
> One might think that if the saw starts and runs well that the brushes
> would not be the culprit for the auto brake.
>
> FWIW I have a Delta CPMS that is getting very long in the tooth. The
> auto brake never worked consistently but if I squeezed the
> trigger/switch a time or two as it was coasting down the brake would
> kick in.
>
> It may very well be the switch that needs to be cleaned out.
Bingo!
My Delta CMS had the same problem. The motor brake quit.
When the trigger is released, the brushes are effectively shorted by the
switch to act as a brake. Cleaning the switch fixed it (for a while,
grrrr...)
-BR
On Fri, 13 May 2016 05:24:28 -0700 (PDT)
Bob Villa <[email protected]> wrote:
> unavailable...has anyone found another source? (Bob Villa doesn't
> know everything!) Thanks.
ask norm
he was the shop steward
you will need to open your wallet
On Fri, 13 May 2016 09:57:18 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 11:31:10 AM UTC-5, OFWW wrote:
>
>> Bottom line, if you are clueless about this, then take it to a local
>> motor shop for repair so that you can get full Hp usage out of it, but
>> then if you bought a reasonable quality motor replacement it will not
>> cost you much more and you'll save on operating costs, plus you'll
>> have new sealed bearings instead of what you have now.
>
>The bottom line here, so far, is there are none available. Mine, at this point, has decent brushes but doesn't stop as it should. Folks have suggested new brushes and blowing out the sawdust. It would be nice if it was safer to use...as new stuff tends to be made cheaper and doesn't last.
Brushes have absolutely nothing to do with slowing down.
New systems sometimes will have brakes built in, if you buy a better
brand.
New stuff is cheaper if you buy cheap or inexpensive equipment, you
get what you pay for most of the time. Your old high speed blades, for
instance, suck when compared to the newer carbide saw blades.
So nothing is wrong with your saw, if you want it to slow down faster
then when you turn the power off, start cutting a piece of scrap wood,
it will stop real fast.
Bob Villa <[email protected]> wrote:
>...this is an old saw. Sears and other sites say brushes are unavailable...has anyone found another source? (Bob Villa doesn't know everything!)
>Thanks.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/191871428040
On Sat, 14 May 2016 04:28:32 -0700, Woody Sawyer
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Taking unto itself the majesty of ignorance, on or about Fri, 13 May 2016,
>the buffoon known as OFWW <[email protected]> spake thusly:
>>
>>My apologies Bob, I assumed that when you said old saw and unavailable
>>saw that you meant a table or radial arm saw. And that if the brushes
>>were bad then it wouldn't run. Now you are speaking as if it does have
>>a brake (newer) and it is possibly a sliding Compound saw.
>>
>
>Oh PUHLEEZE!
>Are you even vaguely cognizant of just how fucking stupid your replys look?
>
> \\\||///
>+====> HINT <================++
> ///||\\\ ||
> \/
>
>"Brushes for a Delta 36-220 CMS <====<< (Compound Miter Saw)
>
> /\
> \\\||/// ||
>+====> HINT <================++
> ///||\\\
>
>How does it feel to swim in the fountain of your own STUPIDITY?
>
>>So I jumped to conclusions that I shouldn't have. Perhaps the next
>>time when you post you could include all this information up front?
>
>Perhaps next time you should just fight the urge to bestow your idiocy upon
>threads that are clearly beyond your grasp.
>
>.....and you are going to build your own kitchen cabinets?
>
>BWAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!
Sitting behind a keyboard, flaming like a child. How cool is that?
Why didn't you look up the manual for yourself. I just did, and he
could have as well. Yes, it does have an electric brake, of sorts,
like many others it turns the motor into a generator and
electronically shorts it out in that mode. May yours sink itself
through the saw and enlighten your day.
He could have looked it up for himself instead of the merry go round
of his replies. Took me all of 20 seconds to do.
When the OP says Sears, I assume that is what he means regardless of
the subject post.
On Sat, 14 May 2016 08:10:13 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Saturday, May 14, 2016 at 9:14:50 AM UTC-5, Brewster wrote:
>> On 5/13/16 11:55 AM, Leon wrote:
>
>> > It may very well be the switch that needs to be cleaned out.
>>
>>
>> Bingo!
>>
>> My Delta CMS had the same problem. The motor brake quit.
>>
>> When the trigger is released, the brushes are effectively shorted by the
>> switch to act as a brake. Cleaning the switch fixed it (for a while,
>> grrrr...)
>>
>>
>> -BR
>
>Thanks, as far as I know, the switch is also obsolete!
Install a relay, like the factory should have in the first place.
Another option is to do like I did with my Milwaukee Sawz-All when the
pitman assembly broke. The service depot said parts no longer
available. I said what model superceded this model? What's different
on it? All the cases were the same - the motor was the same, but the
entire piman assembly was different. Same case. Whats stopping me from
putting in a whole new pitman assembly? I needed about 3/4 of it
anyways - so the additional few parts to update to the new system
ammounted to a few bucks.
The switch from a newer model may fit perfectly - or may require
modifying a connector, or simply using a longer screw (I've had that
happen too)
Ed Pawlowski <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 5/14/2016 5:09 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>
>>
>> The switch from a newer model may fit perfectly - or may require
>> modifying a connector, or simply using a longer screw (I've had that
>> happen too)
>>
>
>
> Another post with missing information. Where do you get the screw?
> Does it have to be Delta OEM? What if it is metric and I don't have a
> metric screwdriver. Can you post a link to a website with a work-around?
>
LOL. You dot that too. :-)
On 5/14/2016 5:09 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>
> The switch from a newer model may fit perfectly - or may require
> modifying a connector, or simply using a longer screw (I've had that
> happen too)
>
Another post with missing information. Where do you get the screw?
Does it have to be Delta OEM? What if it is metric and I don't have a
metric screwdriver. Can you post a link to a website with a work-around?
Taking unto itself the majesty of ignorance, on or about Fri, 13 May 2016,
the buffoon known as OFWW <[email protected]> spake thusly:
>
>My apologies Bob, I assumed that when you said old saw and unavailable
>saw that you meant a table or radial arm saw. And that if the brushes
>were bad then it wouldn't run. Now you are speaking as if it does have
>a brake (newer) and it is possibly a sliding Compound saw.
>
Oh PUHLEEZE!
Are you even vaguely cognizant of just how fucking stupid your replys look?
\\\||///
+====> HINT <================++
///||\\\ ||
\/
"Brushes for a Delta 36-220 CMS <====<< (Compound Miter Saw)
/\
\\\||/// ||
+====> HINT <================++
///||\\\
How does it feel to swim in the fountain of your own STUPIDITY?
>So I jumped to conclusions that I shouldn't have. Perhaps the next
>time when you post you could include all this information up front?
Perhaps next time you should just fight the urge to bestow your idiocy upon
threads that are clearly beyond your grasp.
.....and you are going to build your own kitchen cabinets?
BWAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!
On Fri, 13 May 2016 09:57:18 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 11:31:10 AM UTC-5, OFWW wrote:
>
>> Bottom line, if you are clueless about this, then take it to a local
>> motor shop for repair so that you can get full Hp usage out of it, but
>> then if you bought a reasonable quality motor replacement it will not
>> cost you much more and you'll save on operating costs, plus you'll
>> have new sealed bearings instead of what you have now.
>
>The bottom line here, so far, is there are none available. Mine, at this point, has decent brushes but doesn't stop as it should. Folks have suggested new brushes and blowing out the sawdust. It would be nice if it was safer to use...as new stuff tends to be made cheaper and doesn't last.
A bad switch, or the wrong switch, will cause the dynamic braking to
fail. The switch has to short the motor wires when the power is
removed, turning the motor into a generator working into a short
circuit. Some have a diode and Capacitor in the "SHORT"
On Sat, 14 May 2016 08:14:47 -0600, Brewster <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 5/13/16 11:55 AM, Leon wrote:
>> On 5/13/2016 11:57 AM, Bob Villa wrote:
>>> On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 11:31:10 AM UTC-5, OFWW wrote:
>>>
>>>> Bottom line, if you are clueless about this, then take it to a local
>>>> motor shop for repair so that you can get full Hp usage out of it, but
>>>> then if you bought a reasonable quality motor replacement it will not
>>>> cost you much more and you'll save on operating costs, plus you'll
>>>> have new sealed bearings instead of what you have now.
>>>
>>> The bottom line here, so far, is there are none available. Mine, at
>>> this point, has decent brushes but doesn't stop as it should. Folks
>>> have suggested new brushes and blowing out the sawdust. It would be
>>> nice if it was safer to use...as new stuff tends to be made cheaper
>>> and doesn't last.
>>>
>>
>>
>> One might think that if the saw starts and runs well that the brushes
>> would not be the culprit for the auto brake.
>>
>> FWIW I have a Delta CPMS that is getting very long in the tooth. The
>> auto brake never worked consistently but if I squeezed the
>> trigger/switch a time or two as it was coasting down the brake would
>> kick in.
>>
>> It may very well be the switch that needs to be cleaned out.
>
>
>Bingo!
>
>My Delta CMS had the same problem. The motor brake quit.
>
>When the trigger is released, the brushes are effectively shorted by the
>switch to act as a brake. Cleaning the switch fixed it (for a while,
>grrrr...)
>
>
>-BR
Now that I know what their braking system is, I would like to
recommend this.
Take the motor off, take it to a motor shop for a cleanup, and have
the armature dressed up and new brushes then installed.
Motor brushes by their nature eat into the armature and the brushes
set the way they normally run. When the Motor operation is turned into
a generator it is now operating on brushes with a partial seating.
It also could be a faulty diode, etc. but then the brake would never
work once one of those components failed.
http://slmti.com/windings/windingpics/dcarm.jpg
If you look at this picture the shiny copper portion is the armature,
each section separated by mica and has a slight indentation, like a
1/16 th of an inch or so. Usually a saw blade can cut it down, the
copper needs to be round, best done on a lathe.
Old guys with 6 volt generators and starters would know this as well
as any electricians if they worked on their own cars.
Just wanted to pass a little on.
Bob Villa <[email protected]> wrote:
>The proper size will allow safe operation of the saw. Otherwise it won't stop the blade on trigger release.
I guess you're...
http://boards.420chan.org/tech/src/1447870006810.jpg