I bought one of those red Freud blades that's teflon coated and I'm now
having trouble figuring out how to snug it tight on my TS.
The arbor has no place for a wrench to grab and I'd really rather not
try to use a vise grip to hold it. I've tried both wedging a block in
back and tightening it with a wrench, but no luck. I then tried
snugging it up and then pulling forward on the blade while it's wedged
the other way. No luck.
I guess my next options are to get out the vise grips and a piece of
inner tube or possibly make some wahser type thingies out of abrasive
paper (400?). Maybe I could remove the coating from the center of the
blade?
Has anyone else had this problem?
Thanks.
JP
PS - A Diet Dr. Pepper can is .004" thick. Thus, four thicknesses
would be .016, NOT, as you might be led to believe, .0016. DAMHIKT.
<grumble>
"George E. Cawthon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Yeah right, BillyBob. Nobody should ever use
> cardboard or paper as shims in a dado, cause it is
> dangerous right? Might be too dangerous, start a
> fire, spin and not cut, make two wide a cut? :)
I'm sure my response seemed harsh to you and it was a bit charged with
emotion at the time. I apologize but the words are already out and I cannot
pull them back.
I was and am legitimately concerned with giving any advise to someone
concerning the mounting of whirling teeth of a table saw blade, especially
when they are considering vise grips as a possible approach. If the factory
mounting won't hold it, then something is seriously wrong (warped blade,
arbor or flange?) that won't be fixed by adding paper, stickem, or other
user created additions.
Bob
I ended up just tightening the nut by holding the belt tight and then
gave it a little more by holding the blade still with a gloved hand,
although it still slipped pretty easily. I fired up the saw and it cut
well.
I've never used a teflon blade before so I'm not used to how easily it
slips. With uncoated blades I just finger tighten the nut, pull the
wrench towards me until it leans against the table top and pull on the
blade a little until it's nice and snug.
Thanks for the help everyone.
JP
BillyBob wrote:
> "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
> > How tight are you trying to make it? The blade will then to tighten when
> > run, not loosen, so don't go too far. I've got a couple of those blades
> > and don't have a problem at all in many change-overs.
> >
> > What type of saw that the arbor cannot be held?
>
> I notice we are all talking to air. The OP disappeared after all the
> comments.
This ain't a chat room pal.
JP
"Jay Pique" wrote:
>I bought one of those red Freud blades that's teflon coated and I'm now
>having trouble figuring out how to snug it tight on my TS.
>
>The arbor has no place for a wrench to grab and I'd really rather not
>try to use a vise grip to hold it. I've tried both wedging a block in
>back and tightening it with a wrench, but no luck. I then tried
>snugging it up and then pulling forward on the blade while it's wedged
>the other way. No luck.
<snip>
Do you have access to the vee-belt?
If so, either pinch it together or push against the motor to increase
the belt tension around the sheave on the arbor which in turn increases
belt/sheave tension while you tighten nut.
Lew
On 6 Sep 2005 17:55:47 -0700, Jay Pique <[email protected]> wrote:
> I bought one of those red Freud blades that's teflon coated and I'm now
> having trouble figuring out how to snug it tight on my TS.
Um, piece of scrap jammed in between the teeth on the blade, and the
tablesaw top? Tighten against that.
Jay Pique wrote:
>
> I bought one of those red Freud blades that's teflon coated and I'm now
> having trouble figuring out how to snug it tight on my TS.
How do you tighten any other blade?
> The arbor has no place for a wrench to grab ...
Every saw I've ever seen has a hex wrench to fit into the end of the
shaft...
"George E. Cawthon" wrote:
>
> Duane Bozarth wrote:
> > Jay Pique wrote:
> >
> >>I bought one of those red Freud blades that's teflon coated and I'm now
> >>having trouble figuring out how to snug it tight on my TS.
> >
> >
> > How do you tighten any other blade?
> >
> >
> >>The arbor has no place for a wrench to grab ...
> >
> >
> > Every saw I've ever seen has a hex wrench to fit into the end of the
> > shaft...
>
> I think that says more about your experience than
> what is fact. ...
Quite probably...I've avoided a lot of little hassles by being selective
in purchases, no doubt.
I think I'd modify any saw that didn't to have some way to do so...
"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I bought one of those red Freud blades that's teflon coated and I'm now
> having trouble figuring out how to snug it tight on my TS.
>
> The arbor has no place for a wrench to grab and I'd really rather not
> try to use a vise grip to hold it. I've tried both wedging a block in
> back and tightening it with a wrench, but no luck. I then tried
> snugging it up and then pulling forward on the blade while it's wedged
> the other way. No luck.
How tight are you trying to make it? The blade will then to tighten when
run, not loosen, so don't go too far. I've got a couple of those blades
and don't have a problem at all in many change-overs.
What type of saw that the arbor cannot be held?
"George E. Cawthon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> blade! You hit the solution with the sandpaper.
> Cut two disks 1/4-1/2" larger than the size of
> your arbor washers from from 600 wet/dry sandpaper
> and punch holes to make two paper washers, one for
> either side of the blade. If that doesn't hold
> it, throw the blade away.
Are you serious? You should not need to add anything like sandpaper. If
anything, the paper might be create a problem, since one side of it is paper
and relatively slippery. I think your comment is frivolous and
inappropriate, as you're advising a guy to do something on a potentially
dangerous machine.
Bob
Firstly, I never felt the need to get the teflon coated blades, I just
get the steel industrial equivalents... Ideally, nothing should touch
the plate and the kerf provided by the carbide teeth should give it
plenty of room.
Freehand cutting of green, pressure treated decking material that has
been sitting out in the rain with a skilsaw is another matter... can't
read the writing on the side of the blade anymore after a few seconds.
Anyway, I find that if I can't hand-tighten it (due to the pain caused
by new, sharp carbide points) then a pair of thick leather gloves does
the trick. There's also some kind of "wrench" for blade you can get
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=51522&cat=1,41080,41165&ap=1
if you don't have any band-aids.
Jay Pique <[email protected]> wrote:
> I bought one of those red Freud blades that's teflon coated and I'm now
> having trouble figuring out how to snug it tight on my TS.
>
> The arbor has no place for a wrench to grab and I'd really rather not
> try to use a vise grip to hold it. I've tried both wedging a block in
> back and tightening it with a wrench, but no luck. I then tried
> snugging it up and then pulling forward on the blade while it's wedged
> the other way. No luck.
>
> I guess my next options are to get out the vise grips and a piece of
> inner tube or possibly make some wahser type thingies out of abrasive
> paper (400?). Maybe I could remove the coating from the center of the
> blade?
>
> Has anyone else had this problem?
>
> Thanks.
> JP
>
> PS - A Diet Dr. Pepper can is .004" thick. Thus, four thicknesses
> would be .016, NOT, as you might be led to believe, .0016. DAMHIKT.
> <grumble>
>
"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I bought one of those red Freud blades that's teflon coated and I'm now
> having trouble figuring out how to snug it tight on my TS.
Help me to understand here. Are you saying that your normal blade
installation technique works with other blades but fails with the teflon
coated blade? I have a freud teflon blade and a forrest blade (no teflon).
I install both using the same technique and notice no issues at all with the
teflon blade.
From your description, I gather the slightest hint that installing the blade
may be a new experience for you.
Bob
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> How tight are you trying to make it? The blade will then to tighten when
> run, not loosen, so don't go too far. I've got a couple of those blades
> and don't have a problem at all in many change-overs.
>
> What type of saw that the arbor cannot be held?
I notice we are all talking to air. The OP disappeared after all the
comments. Maybe he's done something dastardly with visegrips and an innner
tube.
Bob
<[email protected]> wrote in message news:8ytTe.165727$wr.55732@clgrps12...
> Firstly, I never felt the need to get the teflon coated blades, I just
> get the steel industrial equivalents... Ideally, nothing should touch
> the plate and the kerf provided by the carbide teeth should give it
> plenty of room.
The Teflon is more for helping prevent the pitch from sticking behind the
carbide teeth.
Jay Pique wrote:
> I bought one of those red Freud blades that's teflon coated and I'm now
> having trouble figuring out how to snug it tight on my TS.
>
> The arbor has no place for a wrench to grab and I'd really rather not
> try to use a vise grip to hold it. I've tried both wedging a block in
> back and tightening it with a wrench, but no luck. I then tried
> snugging it up and then pulling forward on the blade while it's wedged
> the other way. No luck.
>
> I guess my next options are to get out the vise grips and a piece of
> inner tube or possibly make some wahser type thingies out of abrasive
> paper (400?). Maybe I could remove the coating from the center of the
> blade?
>
> Has anyone else had this problem?
>
> Thanks.
> JP
>
> PS - A Diet Dr. Pepper can is .004" thick. Thus, four thicknesses
> would be .016, NOT, as you might be led to believe, .0016. DAMHIKT.
> <grumble>
>
You must have a really powerful motor if it
doesn't stall instead of the arbor turning in the
blade! You hit the solution with the sandpaper.
Cut two disks 1/4-1/2" larger than the size of
your arbor washers from from 600 wet/dry sandpaper
and punch holes to make two paper washers, one for
either side of the blade. If that doesn't hold
it, throw the blade away.
In article <[email protected]>,
Jay Pique <[email protected]> wrote:
>I bought one of those red Freud blades that's teflon coated and I'm now
>having trouble figuring out how to snug it tight on my TS.
>
>The arbor has no place for a wrench to grab and I'd really rather not
>try to use a vise grip to hold it. I've tried both wedging a block in
>back and tightening it with a wrench, but no luck. I then tried
>snugging it up and then pulling forward on the blade while it's wedged
>the other way. No luck.
>
>I guess my next options are to get out the vise grips and a piece of
>inner tube or possibly make some wahser type thingies out of abrasive
>paper (400?). Maybe I could remove the coating from the center of the
>blade?
>
>Has anyone else had this problem?
>
>Thanks.
>JP
>
>PS - A Diet Dr. Pepper can is .004" thick. Thus, four thicknesses
>would be .016, NOT, as you might be led to believe, .0016. DAMHIKT.
><grumble>
>
Just make the arbor nut as tight as you can by holding the blade with
your hand or wedging a piece of wood between the blade teeth and the
saw table top. It isn't necessary to tighten it any more than that,
the first time you run the saw the natural reaction forces of the
spinning blade will keep the nut tight enough.
the nut tight enough
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]
"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> This ain't a chat room pal.
You're right, but its a communications medium. Its courtesy to occasionally
acknowledge the efforts of others to answer your questions.
Bob
Have you tried a piece of wood dowel under the back of a tooth of the
blade, jamming against the underside of the top of the TS? Stick it in
a gullet and raise the blade tight against it.
It won't stop the arbor from turning, but the blade won't. at least
not against a "handshake firm" tightening.
Regards.
Tom
On 6 Sep 2005 17:55:47 -0700, "Jay Pique" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I bought one of those red Freud blades that's teflon coated and I'm now
>having trouble figuring out how to snug it tight on my TS.
>
>The arbor has no place for a wrench to grab and I'd really rather not
>try to use a vise grip to hold it. I've tried both wedging a block in
>back and tightening it with a wrench, but no luck. I then tried
>snugging it up and then pulling forward on the blade while it's wedged
>the other way. No luck.
>
>I guess my next options are to get out the vise grips and a piece of
>inner tube or possibly make some wahser type thingies out of abrasive
>paper (400?). Maybe I could remove the coating from the center of the
>blade?
>
>Has anyone else had this problem?
>
>Thanks.
>JP
>
>PS - A Diet Dr. Pepper can is .004" thick. Thus, four thicknesses
>would be .016, NOT, as you might be led to believe, .0016. DAMHIKT.
><grumble>
BillyBob wrote:
> "George E. Cawthon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>>blade! You hit the solution with the sandpaper.
>>Cut two disks 1/4-1/2" larger than the size of
>>your arbor washers from from 600 wet/dry sandpaper
>>and punch holes to make two paper washers, one for
>>either side of the blade. If that doesn't hold
>>it, throw the blade away.
>
>
> Are you serious? You should not need to add anything like sandpaper. If
> anything, the paper might be create a problem, since one side of it is paper
> and relatively slippery. I think your comment is frivolous and
> inappropriate, as you're advising a guy to do something on a potentially
> dangerous machine.
>
> Bob
>
>
Yeah right, BillyBob. Nobody should ever use
cardboard or paper as shims in a dado, cause it is
dangerous right? Might be too dangerous, start a
fire, spin and not cut, make two wide a cut? :)
I think everybody pointed out that you shouldn't
need to do anything, so hopefully he figured out
what he was doing wrong. Hey, I'm sorry I gave
advice to do something on a potentially dangerous
machine. How about giving advice to NOT Do
something on a potentially dangerous machine.
Don't get in your car and put the key in the start
mechanism! You are risking a terrible accident!
Duane Bozarth wrote:
> Jay Pique wrote:
>
>>I bought one of those red Freud blades that's teflon coated and I'm now
>>having trouble figuring out how to snug it tight on my TS.
>
>
> How do you tighten any other blade?
>
>
>>The arbor has no place for a wrench to grab ...
>
>
> Every saw I've ever seen has a hex wrench to fit into the end of the
> shaft...
I think that says more about your experience than
what is fact. My Sears saw certainly has no way
to hold th arbor, in fact the end of the arbor is
cone shaped.
Since the nut tightens against the saw with the
rotation of the arbor, normally you don't need to
tighten the nut much when putting a blade on the
arbor. Certainly one could rough up the area of
contact between the arbor washers and the saw blade.