11/64" strip...

Sun, Nov 9, 2003, 7:38pm [email protected] (Silvan)
claims:
<snip> (I could maybe put the plane upside down in a vise and move the
work across the sole, but this seems almost impossible to do without
cutting myself.) <snip> Any other ideas?

Sure, you could use a push stick.

And, since you ask. Fasten a couple of 1/2" tall pieces on a
piece of scrap, wedge the piece inbetween, and plan or sand. Hot glue
it to a handle, and use a disk or belt sander. Clamp between a couple
of pieces of scrap, and plane or sand it down. You really needed to
ask? I'm sure BAD can give you lots more ideas.

JOAT
My aim is to get through life peacefully, with as little interferrnce
from human beings as possible.

Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT
Web Page Update 8 Nov 2003.
Some tunes I like.
http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofalltrades/SOMETUNESILIKE/

Don't give up your day job (if you had one)!!! I can NOT believe you
expect him to get a piece of wood uniformly sanded down to 11/64 on a
disk sander. Tsk, tsk.

First of all I could do what he is asking quite easily, but from the
sounds of it he doesn't have the necessary equipment to do it easily.
SO, not knowing what he has to work with, it would be futile to give him
a procedure. IF it were me it would be simplest to get the piece cut on
my Unisaw to 1/16 over width, and longer and then run it thru the
thickness planer (of course it was jointed BEFORE it got to the TS).
Then cut to length using the TS sled for PERFECT 90 degree cuts with no
tear out. If I use the Dewalt CMS, even with an 80 tooth blade it isn't
as good and accurate (to the n'th degree) as the sled and WWII. I mic
everything that comes out of the planer. When "close" isn't good enough
I sneak up on the correct thickness by seeing how much more needs to be
cut and then use the height adjustment knob to make a pretty damned
accurate thickness adjustment. Much easier and faster than to write about!

Anything else, sweetheart?


dave

T. wrote:

> Sun, Nov 9, 2003, 7:38pm [email protected] (Silvan)
> claims:
> <snip> (I could maybe put the plane upside down in a vise and move the
> work across the sole, but this seems almost impossible to do without
> cutting myself.) <snip> Any other ideas?
>
> Sure, you could use a push stick.
>
> And, since you ask. Fasten a couple of 1/2" tall pieces on a
> piece of scrap, wedge the piece inbetween, and plan or sand. Hot glue
> it to a handle, and use a disk or belt sander. Clamp between a couple
> of pieces of scrap, and plane or sand it down. You really needed to
> ask? I'm sure BAD can give you lots more ideas.
>
> JOAT
> My aim is to get through life peacefully, with as little interferrnce
> from human beings as possible.
>
> Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT
> Web Page Update 8 Nov 2003.
> Some tunes I like.
> http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofalltrades/SOMETUNESILIKE/
>

On Sun, 09 Nov 2003 19:38:29 -0500, Silvan
<[email protected]> wrote:

>I'll spare you the back story, but the essence of it is that I need a small
>strip about 1/2" tall by about 6" long that needs to be precisely 11/64"
>thick.

A loose strip, or could you fasten a honking great edge banding (or
whatever you're making) into place, then plane it down to suit ?

Getting the thickness accurate is awkward. Doing it on the unsupported
strip is even harder.


>My saw is far too sloppy to make such a thing.

Table saw ? Bet you could do it. Put a wooden strip fence into place
with G clamps, if you have to.


>It's too thin to plane by hand I think.

Clamping it down is a little tricky, but this is certainly
hand-planeable.

Poor man's bench dogs: Take a piece of ply or MDF sheet, a few
inches wide and a foot or so long. G-clamp it down to the bench and
use it as a bench stop (or use a pop-up dog). Put the workpiece
against it.

Now take another piece, and push it hard against the other end. Clamp
it down. Put the G clamps far enough away from the workpiece and you
can get a plane in there, and the MDF is below the surface of the
timber.

When I was building my bench I did this a lot (lots of dog holes, big
tail vice for opposing dogs, but it was a year after I'd built the top
before I'd finished the tail vice)


>(I could maybe put the plane upside down in a vise and move
>the work across the sole, but this seems almost impossible to do without
>cutting myself.)

The Japanese use this "Great Plane" idea to make wrapping paper !


>Any other ideas?

Bob Wearing's book has an inlay banding thicknessing jig that would
probably work.

Take a narrow board, and a couple of sheetmetal brackets. Now take the
working parts of an iron spokeshave (use that one you dropped and
broke the handle off) and mount those to the brackets, an accurate
distance above the board. Use this like a drawplate as a thicknessing
guide.

--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods

If it were me, I'd route two stopped dados 11/64 apart on the router
table, about 5/8 deep, then flip and route the back side of the strip,
leaving the strip attached only on the ends.

But then again, I have an Incra jig, which is accurate enough to do
those kinds of things ;-)

Alternately, route a dado 11/64 deep in a big board, and use it as a
shooting board for a plane. Put the raw stock in the slot, attach a
board for the side of the plane, and just keep planing until the plane
is riding on the big board.