MDF - Suitable for base cabinet sides

MDF will be fine and I'd use 18 ga brads instead of screws to avoid
splitting

Ron wrote:
> I'm building a set of three kitchen base face frame cabinets.
>
> I'm planning on using 3/4" Red Oak for the rails, stiles, drawer fronts
> and door panels.
>
> I was originally going to use MDF for just the backs, and 3/4" Red Oak
> plywood for the sides. None of the sides will be visible and I'm planning
> on using simple butt joints with pocket holes. Would MDF we suitable,
> hold screws well enough, to be used on the sides or should I just use
> regular 3/4 plywood for the sides instead of the Red Oak variety.
>
> Also, I'm going to sliding build a tray/shelf for pot and pans. Whose
> slides
> would you recommend are Blum, Hafele or Wood Technology worth
> considering? Are Hafele's face frame hinges any good?
>
> ThankX
> Ron
>
>
MDF works great for cabinets. Pocket holes work very well, are easy and
reliable. I've used conformat screws (7mm, the 5mm seem to be too
small) for those places where I need to use screws. Of course you'll
need to pre-drill holes for conformat screws using a special stepped
drill. Be careful to line everything up correctly to avoid a lot of
extra sanding.

I've used a lot of different brands of full extension and 3/4 extension
slides and European style hinges. Rather than recommend a specific
brand, I would recommend that you compare what you're thinking of buying
with a brand that you totally trust. If everything is comparible, buy
whichever brand best meets your requirements. (In my area, Blum products
cost more than twice as much as several other brands. In my tests --
building a test cabinet and abusing the hinges -- the Blum brand worked
the same as several other brands, no better, no worse.)

"Ron" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<jqArb.116237$ao4.354839@attbi_s51>...
> I'm building a set of three kitchen base face frame cabinets.
>
> I'm planning on using 3/4" Red Oak for the rails, stiles, drawer fronts
> and door panels.
>
> I was originally going to use MDF for just the backs, and 3/4" Red Oak
> plywood for the sides. None of the sides will be visible and I'm planning
> on using simple butt joints with pocket holes. Would MDF we suitable,
> hold screws well enough, to be used on the sides or should I just use
> regular 3/4 plywood for the sides instead of the Red Oak variety.
>
> Also, I'm going to sliding build a tray/shelf for pot and pans. Whose
> slides
> would you recommend are Blum, Hafele or Wood Technology worth
> considering? Are Hafele's face frame hinges any good?
>
> ThankX
> Ron
You might want to consider melamine covered particle board for the
cabinet carcass. That way the insides of your cabinets would be
finished with a smooth, easy wipe down surface. I used white in mine.
they look great, and have held up well.
http://www.wood-workers.com/users/tallcorn/ Pictures of vanity.

Scott
www.vmtw.com

"Ron" <[email protected]> wrote in message ...
> I'm building a set of three kitchen base face frame cabinets.
>
> I'm planning on using 3/4" Red Oak for the rails, stiles, drawer fronts
> and door panels.
>
> I was originally going to use MDF for just the backs, and 3/4" Red Oak

> plywood for the sides. None of the sides will be visible and I'm planning
> on using simple butt joints with pocket holes. Would MDF we suitable,
> hold screws well enough, to be used on the sides or should I just use
> regular 3/4 plywood for the sides instead of the Red Oak variety.
>
> Also, I'm going to sliding build a tray/shelf for pot and pans. Whose
> slides
> would you recommend are Blum, Hafele or Wood Technology worth
> considering? Are Hafele's face frame hinges any good?
>
> ThankX
> Ron

MDF would not be a good choice. Choose plywood or melamine coated ply
or particleboard.

Any of the mentioned manufacturers make good hardware. I prefer the
Blum Tandem 556 or (cheaper) Accuride 3832 slides, Blum Clip series
hinges.

mike

On Sun, 09 Nov 2003 23:51:43 GMT, "Ron" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>I'm building a set of three kitchen base face frame cabinets.
>
>I'm planning on using 3/4" Red Oak for the rails, stiles, drawer fronts
>and door panels.
>
>I was originally going to use MDF for just the backs, and 3/4" Red Oak
>plywood for the sides. None of the sides will be visible and I'm planning
>on using simple butt joints with pocket holes. Would MDF we suitable,
>hold screws well enough, to be used on the sides or should I just use
>regular 3/4 plywood for the sides instead of the Red Oak variety.

In the kitchen, there's ALWAYS a possibility for water leaks...both
minor and major. I personally would never use MDF in the kitchen.
How much more can it possibly cost for a cheap grade of plywood?...for
the extra peace of mind.

And I wouldn't trust it for pocket joints...I've seen too many pull
out. If you go that way, make sure you use the coarse-thread screws.

Don't forget the glue!

>Also, I'm going to sliding build a tray/shelf for pot and pans. Whose
>slides
>would you recommend are Blum, Hafele or Wood Technology worth
>considering?

I just built a cabinet for my kitchen. I don't even know the name of
the slides I got. I just used the brand that HD sells...bottom
mount...and mounted them to the sides of the cabinet.

If you mount them to the sides on spacer pieces (for want of a better
name) so that the shelves will clear the stiles, makes the pieces much
wider than you'll need...so that you can easily mount the pieces with
the slides to the cabinet. You may hafta adjust the position of the
slide...and its a lot easier if you can easily get at these mounting
screws rather than hafta monkey with the slide itself.

>Are Hafele's face frame hinges any good?

Dunno. I used hinges from Lowe's...from the bin. And I used
full-front hinges...mounted to the front and to the front of the door.
I wanted a rustic look...and this worked really well for me. Doors
are made from Kreg'ed furring strips.

Good luck. Let us know later how it goes.


Have a nice week...

Trent

Fighting for peace is like screwing for virginity!