I have a lovely piece of spalted maple for a lid on a walnut box. I tested
oil and oil/varnish on it and it darkens too much to work like I want.
I then tried some water based poly I had left over from a cub scout project.
It didn't darken at all, nor did it raise the grain like I expected. Seems
pretty good.
I always think of water based as a dilettante's product, and have never used
it (except on the cub scouts trivets), but it seems to work here. Is there
any reason not to use wb poly on spalted maple? Thanks.
"toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I always think of water based as a dilettante's product, and have never
used
Same class as "Minwhack's" huh? :)
Evidently waterbased *stuff* has come along way. Used some General
Finish(es) wb stain this morning! Very nice. Just raise the grain before
application.
Now you use wb and feel good about saving the environment...
Unless the wood your working on knocks a Spotted Owl out'a it's nest I
guess...
On Thu, 04 Nov 2004 20:53:45 GMT, "toller" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I have a lovely piece of spalted maple for a lid on a walnut box. I tested
>oil and oil/varnish on it and it darkens too much to work like I want.
>
>I then tried some water based poly I had left over from a cub scout project.
>It didn't darken at all, nor did it raise the grain like I expected. Seems
>pretty good.
>
>I always think of water based as a dilettante's product, and have never used
>it (except on the cub scouts trivets), but it seems to work here. Is there
>any reason not to use wb poly on spalted maple? Thanks.
>
I've used WB Poly on ambrosia maple for exactly the reason you cited:
to get the least coloration of the wood. Came out out very clear and
looks great. See:
http://tomstudwell.com/Projects/MapleEndTable/photoalbum.htm
TWS
http://tomstudwell.com/allprojects.htm