I have a homemade box joint jig, and have used it without problem on poplar
and teak. But when I used it on walnut I had bad tear out on the end cuts.
Does it make sense that walnut is more prone to tear out than poplar or
teak?
I solved the tear out problem with a carpet taped backer board, but then I
had trouble holding the wood steady for the first cut and generated a lot of
scrap before getting it right.
Would a spiral bit be less likely to tear out? If not I suppose my options
are to make a better jig to secure the wood on the first cut, or (gasp)
doing it on the table saw. Or does the table saw have tear out problems of
it's own?
Thanks for any advice on this.
I simply do all at one time with a Lynn Jig and put the insides of the box
on the outsides of the stack. That way, when done, any tearout goes to the
inside and you get nice looking, crisp cuts on the outside of the box.
Don
"toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have a homemade box joint jig, and have used it without problem on poplar
> and teak. But when I used it on walnut I had bad tear out on the end
> cuts.
> Does it make sense that walnut is more prone to tear out than poplar or
> teak?
>
> I solved the tear out problem with a carpet taped backer board, but then I
> had trouble holding the wood steady for the first cut and generated a lot
> of
> scrap before getting it right.
>
> Would a spiral bit be less likely to tear out? If not I suppose my
> options
> are to make a better jig to secure the wood on the first cut, or (gasp)
> doing it on the table saw. Or does the table saw have tear out problems
> of
> it's own?
>
> Thanks for any advice on this.
>
>
George, if you would - post those jpgs for all of us.
Inquiring middle schoolers like me would like to see them too.
Dave
"George" <george@least> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Spiral much nicer, but aren't you using a backer/pusher like the Router
> Workshop guys? No problem there, and it's also your spacer for the mating
> cut and template for the next setup. If you don't know what I'm talking
> about, I can send some jpgs to an address you want.
>
> For the middle schoolers I made a pusher with a vertical board to
> encourage
> them to keep their hands safely away.
>
> More than likely that teak has done some dulling, too.
>
> "toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> I have a homemade box joint jig, and have used it without problem on
> poplar
>> and teak. But when I used it on walnut I had bad tear out on the end
> cuts.
>> Does it make sense that walnut is more prone to tear out than poplar or
>> teak?
>>
>> I solved the tear out problem with a carpet taped backer board, but then
>> I
>> had trouble holding the wood steady for the first cut and generated a lot
> of
>> scrap before getting it right.
>>
>> Would a spiral bit be less likely to tear out? If not I suppose my
> options
>> are to make a better jig to secure the wood on the first cut, or (gasp)
>> doing it on the table saw. Or does the table saw have tear out problems
> of
>> it's own?
>>
>> Thanks for any advice on this.
>>
>>
>
>
Spiral much nicer, but aren't you using a backer/pusher like the Router
Workshop guys? No problem there, and it's also your spacer for the mating
cut and template for the next setup. If you don't know what I'm talking
about, I can send some jpgs to an address you want.
For the middle schoolers I made a pusher with a vertical board to encourage
them to keep their hands safely away.
More than likely that teak has done some dulling, too.
"toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a homemade box joint jig, and have used it without problem on
poplar
> and teak. But when I used it on walnut I had bad tear out on the end
cuts.
> Does it make sense that walnut is more prone to tear out than poplar or
> teak?
>
> I solved the tear out problem with a carpet taped backer board, but then I
> had trouble holding the wood steady for the first cut and generated a lot
of
> scrap before getting it right.
>
> Would a spiral bit be less likely to tear out? If not I suppose my
options
> are to make a better jig to secure the wood on the first cut, or (gasp)
> doing it on the table saw. Or does the table saw have tear out problems
of
> it's own?
>
> Thanks for any advice on this.
>
>
Would, but my ISP doesn't seem to get things to abpw.
Got a photosite that won't spam me forever?
"dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:3ayid.7$4N4.4@lakeread04...
> George, if you would - post those jpgs for all of us.
> Inquiring middle schoolers like me would like to see them too.
>
> Dave
>
>
> "George" <george@least> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Spiral much nicer, but aren't you using a backer/pusher like the Router
> > Workshop guys? No problem there, and it's also your spacer for the
mating
> > cut and template for the next setup. If you don't know what I'm talking
> > about, I can send some jpgs to an address you want.
> >
> > For the middle schoolers I made a pusher with a vertical board to
> > encourage
> > them to keep their hands safely away.
> >
> > More than likely that teak has done some dulling, too.
> >
> > "toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> >> I have a homemade box joint jig, and have used it without problem on
> > poplar
> >> and teak. But when I used it on walnut I had bad tear out on the end
> > cuts.
> >> Does it make sense that walnut is more prone to tear out than poplar or
> >> teak?
> >>
> >> I solved the tear out problem with a carpet taped backer board, but
then
> >> I
> >> had trouble holding the wood steady for the first cut and generated a
lot
> > of
> >> scrap before getting it right.
> >>
> >> Would a spiral bit be less likely to tear out? If not I suppose my
> > options
> >> are to make a better jig to secure the wood on the first cut, or (gasp)
> >> doing it on the table saw. Or does the table saw have tear out
problems
> > of
> >> it's own?
> >>
> >> Thanks for any advice on this.
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
Yep, that's the beauty of the jig - simple and precise as you care. The use
of the spacer to fence the first cut means that the gap which begins the
piece can be precisely as wide as the finger that will fill it. You don't
see the anti-tearout block behind the piece in the picture.
For the pieces beginning with a finger, and for subsequent cuts on the
others the spacer is used as a pusher/tearout prevention, by reversing to
ride the rail.
"toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Thanks for the pictures.
> I have a little sled rather then the rail, but it is about the same idea.
> My problem is in your second picture; cutting the offset piece. I have
not
> tried leaving a block next to the piece being cut; is that the space you
> referred to? Probably a good idea; might reduce tear out, but will
> certainly make holding the work easier.
> Thanks.
>
>
Thanks for the pictures.
I have a little sled rather then the rail, but it is about the same idea.
My problem is in your second picture; cutting the offset piece. I have not
tried leaving a block next to the piece being cut; is that the space you
referred to? Probably a good idea; might reduce tear out, but will
certainly make holding the work easier.
Thanks.
> Spiral much nicer, but aren't you using a backer/pusher like the Router
> Workshop guys? No problem there, and it's also your spacer for the mating
> cut and template for the next setup. If you don't know what I'm talking
> about, I can send some jpgs to an address you want.
>
I would appreciate the jpgs. [email protected]
> For the middle schoolers I made a pusher with a vertical board to
encourage
> them to keep their hands safely away.
>
> More than likely that teak has done some dulling, too.
Yes, I considered that also. It is a craftsman that came free with an old
table and has seen a bit of use. I suppose that is enough excuse to replace
it with a spirl bit.
Thanks