In a fit of unrestrained impulse buying I purchased a RotoZip about 18
months ago. There was a residual vision in my mind of their TV ad
where the things effortlessly zips through every thing. A couple of
months later I went to use it for the first time. I think I wanted to
cut a circle or an arc in a piece of hardboard (Masonite) I was using
to make a jig.
It didn't perform so I put it back in its case and used my trusted old
Bosch jig saw instead.
Now, I was just wondering if I should have spent more time mastering
its use or whether I should just leave it in the pile of other
worthless gadgets I have accumulated over the years.
I am sure this group will have the answer.
Joe
Joe Bleau wrote:
> In a fit of unrestrained impulse buying I purchased a RotoZip about 18
> months ago. There was a residual vision in my mind of their TV ad
> where the things effortlessly zips through every thing. A couple of
> months later I went to use it for the first time. I think I wanted to
> cut a circle or an arc in a piece of hardboard (Masonite) I was using
> to make a jig.
>
> It didn't perform so I put it back in its case and used my trusted old
> Bosch jig saw instead.
>
> Now, I was just wondering if I should have spent more time mastering
> its use or whether I should just leave it in the pile of other
> worthless gadgets I have accumulated over the years.
>
> I am sure this group will have the answer.
>
> Joe
I don't have a rotozip tool but have a Dremel with the spiral cutter and
the router base. It worked great when I installed the can lights in our
family room. I used it to make the cut outs in the dry wall and in the
wood paneling for the switches.
--
Keith Nuttle
3110 Marquette Court
Indianapolis, IN 46268
317-802-0699
On 6 Feb 2007 08:22:19 -0800, [email protected] wrote:
>At the moment my baasement shop plans have changed. A friend said I
>should stud and insulate and drywall the basement walls instead of
>just painting the concrete white. I'm thinking I will do this. So
>instead of rotary hammering the metal boxes and conduit to the walls
>with Tapcons, I'll be putting outlet boxes every 4 feet onto studs
>attached to the walls/floors/joists. Lots of outlet boxes.
>
>Still wondering about the drywall attaching. When I hang drywall I
>put in the screws so any wrinkles are worked out as I screw it down.
>Put 3-4 screws into the same stud or two in the middle of the drywall
>sheet. Then put screws in the studs to the sides until I get to the
>outside of the drywall. Like when laying laminate, you start in the
>middle and work to the edges or start at one end and work to the other
>end so no bubbles occur. But with drywall its probably stiff enough
>that resting it on top of the 1/2" protruding boxes will not cause any
>bubbles, warps to form. I'm thinking up problems that do not occur.
Never really saw any wrinkles on sheetrock, but if you just run the
screws along the top of the sheet, you should be able to use the
technique *and* set your mind at ease. Before you zip it out, all you
need is enough holding power to keep the sheet from falling off or
sliding around.
>I'll have to try it with the utility knife and keyhole saw and see if
>that works.
Please note that utility knife and keyhole saw works best if you
layout and cut the holes while the sheet is on the ground. The
drywall bits have blunt ends that should not tear up your wiring, but
using a keyhole saw to cut around the roughed-in box is a good way to
either cut your wires or give yourself a really good shock, if the
wires are live. It can work very well, you just need to measure
carefully.
>Then maybe try the Sears Dremel freehand. Then maybe buy
>the router base thing for the Dremel tool. Then maybe buy the PC 3510
>since its a new tool and I want a new tool. Want, not need.
Sure- there's more than one way to skin a cat.
On Jan 31, 11:49 pm, Joe Bleau <[email protected]> wrote:
> In a fit of unrestrained impulse buying I purchased a RotoZip about 18
> months ago. There was a residual vision in my mind of their TV ad
> where the things effortlessly zips through every thing. A couple of
> months later I went to use it for the first time. I think I wanted to
> cut a circle or an arc in a piece of hardboard (Masonite) I was using
> to make a jig.
>
> It didn't perform so I put it back in its case and used my trusted old
> Bosch jig saw instead.
>
> Now, I was just wondering if I should have spent more time mastering
> its use or whether I should just leave it in the pile of other
> worthless gadgets I have accumulated over the years.
>
> I am sure this group will have the answer.
>
> Joe
Sadly I made the same mistake, only difference being I bought mine at
Sears. The pin that you push in to tighten or loosen the collet broke
the second time I used it (13 months after purchase). Sears would not
take it back or exchange it. Called Rotozip and they did exchange it
for a new one. The plastic housing that holds the pin broke again.
Bad design of the plastic housing I think. I ended up drilling out
the shaft to accept a C141-B rig pin.
Other than drywall the only other use I found was when I need to hog
out a few studs that had finished drywall on the other side. Was
especially helpful getting at that last stud in the corner. I don't
think any other tool could have done that job.
On Jan 31, 10:49 pm, Joe Bleau <[email protected]> wrote:
> In a fit of unrestrained impulse buying I purchased a RotoZip about 18
> months ago. There was a residual vision in my mind of their TV ad
> where the things effortlessly zips through every thing. A couple of
> months later I went to use it for the first time. I think I wanted to
> cut a circle or an arc in a piece of hardboard (Masonite) I was using
> to make a jig.
>
> It didn't perform so I put it back in its case and used my trusted old
> Bosch jig saw instead.
>
> Now, I was just wondering if I should have spent more time mastering
> its use or whether I should just leave it in the pile of other
> worthless gadgets I have accumulated over the years.
>
> I am sure this group will have the answer.
>
> Joe
Once I had to attach a round flexible duct to a sheet metal duct in a
basement, and the only access was from the top, between
joists. The only way I could manuver to cut the sheet metal was to
use the rotozip with a circle cutter. There was just enough
room to get the tool and my hand in there and I could hardly see what
I was doing, but it worked.
In the modeling hobbies, the Dremel is THE TOOL OF CHOICE.
The Rotozip is like a big Dremel.
So in those hobbies, the Rotozip works very well.
Each tool has its niche...it is up to you to find it.
TMT
On Feb 1, 8:47 am, "Jack" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have the big Dremel with the large motor - a RotoZip knockoff. Great for
> drywalls, getting into tight places to flush cut nails and bolts where my
> recip saw can't. Polish and grind little things. Cut out a slot on a rusted
> out screw so I could back it out with a screw driver - only tool I had that
> could do that.
On Jan 31, 10:49 pm, Joe Bleau <[email protected]> wrote:
> Now, I was just wondering if I should have spent more time mastering
> its use or whether I should just leave it in the pile of other
> worthless gadgets I have accumulated over the years.
As many have mentioned it's versaitality with drywall, I have a new
appreciation how well it does that job.
My wife and I had our new house drywalled, we've built the rest...but
hired the drywall hanging and finishing, the pro crews are just WAY
faster. The hanging crew gave artisan with a rotozip new meaning The
way they'd just tack the edges of a sheet, find the ceiling fixtures
and in a couple of seconds out plopped a DW puck.
In the ICF construction, I had to add a 3 1/2" OSB nailer at the
bottom of the exterior walls. Tacked the top, let the bottom rest on
the OSB, never measured just let the bit run on the nailer...trimmed
perfectly.
They're amazing to watch...and I did just that...watch as we've busted
our hinny on this project and ready for a break.
Like everything...every tool has it's place and it's your
responsibility to choose the right tool. I'd never use a rotozip to
poke a hole in 1/2 OSB just as I'd never use a reciprocating saw to
cut dove tails.
Don't get rid of it....if you do, you'll find that it would of been
the cats meow.
Hang in there....
DAC
On Jan 31, 11:55 pm, "Steve" <[email protected]> wrote:
> It works really great for cutting holes in drywall. Hang the drywall, then
> cut out around the outlet boxes and light fixtures. Use the fixture as a
> guide. No measuring required.
The problem with this is the edge of the outlet/switch box will be
1/2" below the finish side of the drywall. I know some/most of the
screws on outlets/switches can span the 1/2" but it just seems like a
poor quality job to have the outlet/switch box not at the surface of
the drywall.
I have a Sears brand of the Dremel and it is useful in some
instances. Gets used a couple times a year. Glad I bought it. Not
sure I see the need for a Roto Zip. Might acquire one of those small
palm routers like the PC 3510.
No need to buy those great big plates to
> hide your mistakes. The circle fixture works great on drywall too. I have
> had trouble using it with any other material.
>
> "Joe Bleau" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>
> > In a fit of unrestrained impulse buying I purchased a RotoZip about 18
> > months ago. There was a residual vision in my mind of their TV ad
> > where the things effortlessly zips through every thing. A couple of
> > months later I went to use it for the first time. I think I wanted to
> > cut a circle or an arc in a piece of hardboard (Masonite) I was using
> > to make a jig.
>
> > It didn't perform so I put it back in its case and used my trusted old
> > Bosch jig saw instead.
>
> > Now, I was just wondering if I should have spent more time mastering
> > its use or whether I should just leave it in the pile of other
> > worthless gadgets I have accumulated over the years.
>
> > I am sure this group will have the answer.
>
> > Joe- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
On Feb 5, 6:38 pm, [email protected] wrote:
> On Jan 31, 11:55 pm, "Steve" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > It works really great for cutting holes in drywall. Hang the drywall, then
> > cut out around the outlet boxes and light fixtures. Use the fixture as a
> > guide. No measuring required.
>
> The problem with this is the edge of the outlet/switch box will be
> 1/2" below the finish side of the drywall. I know some/most of the
> screws on outlets/switches can span the 1/2" but it just seems like a
> poor quality job to have the outlet/switch box not at the surface of
> the drywall.
Just read the other responses of just barely tacking the drywall in
place and cutting out the hole with the box in its proper 1/2" proud
of the studs position then sliding the drywall over the box hole and
finishing the drywall screwing. Might have to try this with my Sears
Dremel next time I hang drywall. I'va always done the measure where
the box is and cut the drywall before putting it on the wall method.
On Feb 6, 2:27 am, Prometheus <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 5 Feb 2007 16:38:29 -0800, [email protected] wrote:
>
> >On Jan 31, 11:55 pm, "Steve" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> It works really great for cutting holes in drywall. Hang the drywall, then
> >> cut out around the outlet boxes and light fixtures. Use the fixture as a
> >> guide. No measuring required.
>
> >The problem with this is the edge of the outlet/switch box will be
> >1/2" below the finish side of the drywall. I know some/most of the
> >screws on outlets/switches can span the 1/2" but it just seems like a
> >poor quality job to have the outlet/switch box not at the surface of
> >the drywall.
>
> It is. I think you missed something in the description- you rough in
> the boxes so that they will sit flush with the finished drywall
> surface, and then screw in the perimeter of the drywall and maybe a
> stud or two. Just what you need to hold the sheet on the wall or
> ceiling. Then you cut the drywall around the boxes and it pops down
> over them. *Then* you finish screwing it down completely.
>
> Sounded like a crappy way to do it to me as well (I always used to
> layout the sheet and use a keyhole saw to cut the holes before hanging
> sheets) until I saw a guy actually doing it. Took about 10 seconds to
> make a firm believer out of me.
>
> >I have a Sears brand of the Dremel and it is useful in some
> >instances. Gets used a couple times a year. Glad I bought it. Not
> >sure I see the need for a Roto Zip. Might acquire one of those small
> >palm routers like the PC 3510.
>
> No real need for the Rotozip unless you're a sheetrocker or do a *lot*
> of remodeling, really. It's sure nice for what's being described, and
> saves a lot of time- but it's nothing a guy can't do with a utility
> knife and/or a keyhole saw. For a hobbyist woodworker or DIY home
> repairs, there's not much call for the thing.
At the moment my baasement shop plans have changed. A friend said I
should stud and insulate and drywall the basement walls instead of
just painting the concrete white. I'm thinking I will do this. So
instead of rotary hammering the metal boxes and conduit to the walls
with Tapcons, I'll be putting outlet boxes every 4 feet onto studs
attached to the walls/floors/joists. Lots of outlet boxes.
Still wondering about the drywall attaching. When I hang drywall I
put in the screws so any wrinkles are worked out as I screw it down.
Put 3-4 screws into the same stud or two in the middle of the drywall
sheet. Then put screws in the studs to the sides until I get to the
outside of the drywall. Like when laying laminate, you start in the
middle and work to the edges or start at one end and work to the other
end so no bubbles occur. But with drywall its probably stiff enough
that resting it on top of the 1/2" protruding boxes will not cause any
bubbles, warps to form. I'm thinking up problems that do not occur.
I'll have to try it with the utility knife and keyhole saw and see if
that works. Then maybe try the Sears Dremel freehand. Then maybe buy
the router base thing for the Dremel tool. Then maybe buy the PC 3510
since its a new tool and I want a new tool. Want, not need.
It works really great for cutting holes in drywall. Hang the drywall, then
cut out around the outlet boxes and light fixtures. Use the fixture as a
guide. No measuring required. No need to buy those great big plates to
hide your mistakes. The circle fixture works great on drywall too. I have
had trouble using it with any other material.
"Joe Bleau" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In a fit of unrestrained impulse buying I purchased a RotoZip about 18
> months ago. There was a residual vision in my mind of their TV ad
> where the things effortlessly zips through every thing. A couple of
> months later I went to use it for the first time. I think I wanted to
> cut a circle or an arc in a piece of hardboard (Masonite) I was using
> to make a jig.
>
> It didn't perform so I put it back in its case and used my trusted old
> Bosch jig saw instead.
>
> Now, I was just wondering if I should have spent more time mastering
> its use or whether I should just leave it in the pile of other
> worthless gadgets I have accumulated over the years.
>
> I am sure this group will have the answer.
>
> Joe
What I've learned from my Dremel and Rotozip is this... The do everything
tool means that you need to buy a new attachment or blade/drill bit for
every different surfice/material you work with. At the end of the day the
"do everything" tool isn't so cheap. I guess if you only had room for one
tool box it might be the tool to keep.
"Joe Bleau" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In a fit of unrestrained impulse buying I purchased a RotoZip about 18
> months ago. There was a residual vision in my mind of their TV ad
> where the things effortlessly zips through every thing. A couple of
> months later I went to use it for the first time. I think I wanted to
> cut a circle or an arc in a piece of hardboard (Masonite) I was using
> to make a jig.
>
> It didn't perform so I put it back in its case and used my trusted old
> Bosch jig saw instead.
>
> Now, I was just wondering if I should have spent more time mastering
> its use or whether I should just leave it in the pile of other
> worthless gadgets I have accumulated over the years.
>
> I am sure this group will have the answer.
>
> Joe
Most people here don't appreciate the RotoZip, I suspect it's because they
don't do the type of work that is comes in handy for. I have the Craftsman
rotary tool, and it has served me well for years.
Besides it's obvious use of cutting drywall/panelling, I have performed the
following tasks:
Cutting off nails
reslotting screws
trimming laminate (owning a rotory tool with router base eliminates the need
for a laminate trimmer)
routing profiles (with 1/4" router bits)
cutting holes in sofets, cement fiber siding, plywood
cutting out sink holes in formica countertops.
removing old grout
drilling holes (with drill bits)
cutting pipe
I'm sure there are things I have used it for as well, but that's all I can
think of right now.
On Wed, 31 Jan 2007 23:49:10 -0500, Joe Bleau <[email protected]>
wrote:
>In a fit of unrestrained impulse buying I purchased a RotoZip about 18
>months ago. There was a residual vision in my mind of their TV ad
>where the things effortlessly zips through every thing. A couple of
>months later I went to use it for the first time. I think I wanted to
>cut a circle or an arc in a piece of hardboard (Masonite) I was using
>to make a jig.
>
>It didn't perform so I put it back in its case and used my trusted old
>Bosch jig saw instead.
>
>Now, I was just wondering if I should have spent more time mastering
>its use or whether I should just leave it in the pile of other
>worthless gadgets I have accumulated over the years.
>
>I am sure this group will have the answer.
A Rotozip fits in the gap between a Dremel and a router--it can take
Dremel bits but has immensely more power and it can take 1/4 inch
shank router bits but is less powerful and precise than a router. Look
at it as a Dremel on steroids and you're pretty close to the mark.
It is _the_ tool for making cutouts in drywall and plaster--my house
has plaster over drywall so in the middle of installing network
cabling, having gotten fed up with all the other approaches, I broke
down and got one for that. It has since proven occasionally useful
for all sorts of things.
If you want to cut a circle in a piece of hardboard, the Rotozip
cutter isn't really right--it will take forever to do the cut unless
they've improved them considerably and the finish will be pretty poor.
Get yourself a quarter inch router bit and use the quarter inch collet
in the Rotozip and it should go just fine.
Their bits are handy, sometimes, but I don't like the tool quality. After
seeing a friend's troubles with his RotoZip I never did buy one. I bought a
collet adapter for the bits and I use them in my laminate trimmer or router.
Other than making holes in sheetrock the only other thing that I've done
with them is to make stand-up cutouts of cartoon characters for church.
Using a piece of foam insulation as a backer, the rotozip bits cut through
the 1/4 luan to make these quite easily. The foam absorbed the sawdust,
protected the bit tip, and minimized chip-out. Following the lines freehand
went relatively well if you didn't rush it. Pushing the forward cutting
speed resulted in sideways pulling, making it difficult to stay on the line.
It turned out much better than trying to make the cuts with a sabre saw.
--
Charley
"Joe Bleau" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In a fit of unrestrained impulse buying I purchased a RotoZip about 18
> months ago. There was a residual vision in my mind of their TV ad
> where the things effortlessly zips through every thing. A couple of
> months later I went to use it for the first time. I think I wanted to
> cut a circle or an arc in a piece of hardboard (Masonite) I was using
> to make a jig.
>
> It didn't perform so I put it back in its case and used my trusted old
> Bosch jig saw instead.
>
> Now, I was just wondering if I should have spent more time mastering
> its use or whether I should just leave it in the pile of other
> worthless gadgets I have accumulated over the years.
>
> I am sure this group will have the answer.
>
> Joe
On Thu, 01 Feb 2007 08:27:19 -0600, Seeker <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Heck it doesn't cutout outlets in drywall very well if using plastic
>boxes. The hi speed bit melted through the boxes I wound up hand cutting
>with a drywall saw then finishing with the RoroZip and took it back.
Hmmm. I have no problem cutting around plastic boxes. Have to be
gentle though.
Did you use drywall bits?
To get rid of the drywall dust problem experienced during cutting, I
purchased some drywall bits. They reduced the dust dramatically.
Possibly, the drywall specific bits are better at cutting around
plastic. (Thinking out loud :)
Gary.
On Mon, 05 Feb 2007 03:47:48 -0600, Prometheus
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Never tried it with an outlet box, but I did find that while the
>Rotozip *bit* was great for cutting tile, I had a whole lot more luck
>with it when I put it in a Dremel tool with a flex attachment for
>cutting holes for plumbing fixtures.
>
>I'm not that familiar with the full Rotozip line, but the ones I've
>used were all single-speed- and that speed was way too fast for
>cutting tile, IMO.
I have limited space on my service truck, so I carry a very basic
model (sans. D-handle, variable speed, etc.) with an assortment of
bits for different material that all fit in a small plastic tool box.
I'm sure your method is superior, but I'm usually doing a one time
install on very short notice (ex. the freezer unit was just delivered
and we need it running by lunch rush in an hour!). Its noisy, and
messy, but it cuts clean enough to install a cut in box, and any minor
sins are covered by the plate. It has enough beef to do tougher jobs
as well. An added benefit to the model I carry is that it is
relatively inexpensive, should it be stolen on a jobsite.
The Flexshaft machine stays home in my personal shop, not to be
shared with my tool abusing cohorts.
Marty
Martin (NoxiousDog) Person,
*****************************************
Connoisseur of budget meats,
electrician, Collector of manure.
http://www.alicia-logic.com
*****************************************
On 5 Feb 2007 16:38:29 -0800, [email protected] wrote:
>On Jan 31, 11:55 pm, "Steve" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> It works really great for cutting holes in drywall. Hang the drywall, then
>> cut out around the outlet boxes and light fixtures. Use the fixture as a
>> guide. No measuring required.
>
>
>The problem with this is the edge of the outlet/switch box will be
>1/2" below the finish side of the drywall. I know some/most of the
>screws on outlets/switches can span the 1/2" but it just seems like a
>poor quality job to have the outlet/switch box not at the surface of
>the drywall.
It is. I think you missed something in the description- you rough in
the boxes so that they will sit flush with the finished drywall
surface, and then screw in the perimeter of the drywall and maybe a
stud or two. Just what you need to hold the sheet on the wall or
ceiling. Then you cut the drywall around the boxes and it pops down
over them. *Then* you finish screwing it down completely.
Sounded like a crappy way to do it to me as well (I always used to
layout the sheet and use a keyhole saw to cut the holes before hanging
sheets) until I saw a guy actually doing it. Took about 10 seconds to
make a firm believer out of me.
>I have a Sears brand of the Dremel and it is useful in some
>instances. Gets used a couple times a year. Glad I bought it. Not
>sure I see the need for a Roto Zip. Might acquire one of those small
>palm routers like the PC 3510.
No real need for the Rotozip unless you're a sheetrocker or do a *lot*
of remodeling, really. It's sure nice for what's being described, and
saves a lot of time- but it's nothing a guy can't do with a utility
knife and/or a keyhole saw. For a hobbyist woodworker or DIY home
repairs, there's not much call for the thing.
I have the big Dremel with the large motor - a RotoZip knockoff. Great for
drywalls, getting into tight places to flush cut nails and bolts where my
recip saw can't. Polish and grind little things. Cut out a slot on a rusted
out screw so I could back it out with a screw driver - only tool I had that
could do that.
On Tue, 06 Feb 2007 08:16:12 -0500, J. Clarke <[email protected]>
wrote:
>>No real need for the Rotozip unless you're a sheetrocker or do a *lot*
>>of remodeling, really. It's sure nice for what's being described, and
>>saves a lot of time- but it's nothing a guy can't do with a utility
>>knife and/or a keyhole saw. For a hobbyist woodworker or DIY home
>>repairs, there's not much call for the thing.
>
>If you've got sheetrock maybe. If you've got real plaster it's a
>godsend.
You are 110% correct. Lath and plaster will kill a keyhole saw in a
matter of seconds. I was talking about new installation, and most
folks go with premade rock these days.
On Sat, 03 Feb 2007 12:32:36 -0600, Martin L. Person
<[email protected]> wrote:
> The Rotozip with the 1/4 in. collet and a carbide bit is perfect for
>cutting in an outlet box in a ceramic tile wall on a remodel. It is
>also great for enlarging an undersized hole through plywood using the
>proper bit. I carry one with me on my service truck. You will run into
>those situations when it's the only tool to do an oddball cut.
> When using it to cut in around electrical openings on a drywall job
>make sure your wires are tucked well back in the box. I have had sheet
>rockers over zealously grind up my wires as they carelessly zip around
>to find the mud ring. I usually have to carefully open their rock with
>a large hammer to pull in a new cable. This usually makes them more
>careful after they have to go back and repair the holes.
Never tried it with an outlet box, but I did find that while the
Rotozip *bit* was great for cutting tile, I had a whole lot more luck
with it when I put it in a Dremel tool with a flex attachment for
cutting holes for plumbing fixtures.
I'm not that familiar with the full Rotozip line, but the ones I've
used were all single-speed- and that speed was way too fast for
cutting tile, IMO.
On Wed, 31 Jan 2007 23:49:10 -0500, Joe Bleau <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Now, I was just wondering if I should have spent more time mastering
>its use or whether I should just leave it in the pile of other
>worthless gadgets I have accumulated over the years.
I bought one a good while back (to trim some tile to level out the
toilet) the toilet is still out of level. Can I put mine with yours?
Mark
http://home.mchsi.com/~xphome/
On Mon, 05 Feb 2007 17:44:09 -0600, Martin L. Person
<[email protected]> wrote:
> I have limited space on my service truck, so I carry a very basic
>model (sans. D-handle, variable speed, etc.) with an assortment of
>bits for different material that all fit in a small plastic tool box.
>I'm sure your method is superior, but I'm usually doing a one time
>install on very short notice (ex. the freezer unit was just delivered
>and we need it running by lunch rush in an hour!). Its noisy, and
>messy, but it cuts clean enough to install a cut in box, and any minor
>sins are covered by the plate. It has enough beef to do tougher jobs
>as well. An added benefit to the model I carry is that it is
>relatively inexpensive, should it be stolen on a jobsite.
Sure- No reason why it can't work, I just like the bit running slower.
Seems like when I tried it in a standard Rotozip like the one you're
describing, it really burned those bits up fast. In the Dremel at the
lowest speed, they last a good long time, and I have a bit more
control.
> The Flexshaft machine stays home in my personal shop, not to be
>shared with my tool abusing cohorts.
Now that, I can certainly understand. Even though a Dremel is hardly
an expensive tool, I only use it for tile, and it stayed locked up
unless it was in my hand. Now I don't do tile work anymore (though I
suppose I would if a side job came up) so it just stays in the
basement as a "just in case" tool.
On Wed, 31 Jan 2007 23:49:10 -0500, Joe Bleau <[email protected]>
wrote:
>In a fit of unrestrained impulse buying I purchased a RotoZip about 18
>months ago. There was a residual vision in my mind of their TV ad
>where the things effortlessly zips through every thing. A couple of
>months later I went to use it for the first time. I think I wanted to
>cut a circle or an arc in a piece of hardboard (Masonite) I was using
>to make a jig.
>
>It didn't perform so I put it back in its case and used my trusted old
>Bosch jig saw instead.
>
>Now, I was just wondering if I should have spent more time mastering
>its use or whether I should just leave it in the pile of other
>worthless gadgets I have accumulated over the years.
>
>I am sure this group will have the answer.
The rotozip is excellent- but only for one thing (at least as far as
I'm concerned). It's really handy for cutting out holes for outlet
boxes, windows and doorways when hanging drywall. What you do is
partially screw the full sheet to the wall, then plunge the rotozip
into the center of (for example) the outlet box. Cut over until you
reach the edge, where you enounter some resistance, and then lift it
slowly until it slides over the side of the box. Then you use the box
as a guide by zipping around it, and slide it into the new
perfectly-formed hole in the drywall and finish screwing the sheet
down.
That use justifies the tool, but cutting wood with one is kind of a
chore.
On Tue, 06 Feb 2007 02:27:22 -0600, Prometheus
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On 5 Feb 2007 16:38:29 -0800, [email protected] wrote:
>
>>On Jan 31, 11:55 pm, "Steve" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> It works really great for cutting holes in drywall. Hang the drywall, then
>>> cut out around the outlet boxes and light fixtures. Use the fixture as a
>>> guide. No measuring required.
>>
>>
>>The problem with this is the edge of the outlet/switch box will be
>>1/2" below the finish side of the drywall. I know some/most of the
>>screws on outlets/switches can span the 1/2" but it just seems like a
>>poor quality job to have the outlet/switch box not at the surface of
>>the drywall.
>
>It is. I think you missed something in the description- you rough in
>the boxes so that they will sit flush with the finished drywall
>surface, and then screw in the perimeter of the drywall and maybe a
>stud or two. Just what you need to hold the sheet on the wall or
>ceiling. Then you cut the drywall around the boxes and it pops down
>over them. *Then* you finish screwing it down completely.
>
>Sounded like a crappy way to do it to me as well (I always used to
>layout the sheet and use a keyhole saw to cut the holes before hanging
>sheets) until I saw a guy actually doing it. Took about 10 seconds to
>make a firm believer out of me.
>
>>I have a Sears brand of the Dremel and it is useful in some
>>instances. Gets used a couple times a year. Glad I bought it. Not
>>sure I see the need for a Roto Zip. Might acquire one of those small
>>palm routers like the PC 3510.
>
>No real need for the Rotozip unless you're a sheetrocker or do a *lot*
>of remodeling, really. It's sure nice for what's being described, and
>saves a lot of time- but it's nothing a guy can't do with a utility
>knife and/or a keyhole saw. For a hobbyist woodworker or DIY home
>repairs, there's not much call for the thing.
If you've got sheetrock maybe. If you've got real plaster it's a
godsend.
It does best at it's originally intended job, cutting sheetrock. Other than
that, a router does much better at just about everything.
"Joe Bleau" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In a fit of unrestrained impulse buying I purchased a RotoZip about 18
> months ago. There was a residual vision in my mind of their TV ad
> where the things effortlessly zips through every thing. A couple of
> months later I went to use it for the first time. I think I wanted to
> cut a circle or an arc in a piece of hardboard (Masonite) I was using
> to make a jig.
>
> It didn't perform so I put it back in its case and used my trusted old
> Bosch jig saw instead.
>
> Now, I was just wondering if I should have spent more time mastering
> its use or whether I should just leave it in the pile of other
> worthless gadgets I have accumulated over the years.
>
> I am sure this group will have the answer.
>
> Joe
The Rotozip with the 1/4 in. collet and a carbide bit is perfect for
cutting in an outlet box in a ceramic tile wall on a remodel. It is
also great for enlarging an undersized hole through plywood using the
proper bit. I carry one with me on my service truck. You will run into
those situations when it's the only tool to do an oddball cut.
When using it to cut in around electrical openings on a drywall job
make sure your wires are tucked well back in the box. I have had sheet
rockers over zealously grind up my wires as they carelessly zip around
to find the mud ring. I usually have to carefully open their rock with
a large hammer to pull in a new cable. This usually makes them more
careful after they have to go back and repair the holes.
Marty
On Wed, 31 Jan 2007 23:49:10 -0500, Joe Bleau <[email protected]>
wrote:
>In a fit of unrestrained impulse buying I purchased a RotoZip about 18
>months ago. There was a residual vision in my mind of their TV ad
>where the things effortlessly zips through every thing. A couple of
>months later I went to use it for the first time. I think I wanted to
>cut a circle or an arc in a piece of hardboard (Masonite) I was using
>to make a jig.
>
>It didn't perform so I put it back in its case and used my trusted old
>Bosch jig saw instead.
>
>Now, I was just wondering if I should have spent more time mastering
>its use or whether I should just leave it in the pile of other
>worthless gadgets I have accumulated over the years.
>
>I am sure this group will have the answer.
>
>Joe
Martin (NoxiousDog) Person,
*****************************************
Connoisseur of budget meats,
electrician, Collector of manure.
http://www.alicia-logic.com
*****************************************
On 5 Feb 2007 16:46:34 -0800, [email protected] wrote:
>On Feb 5, 6:38 pm, [email protected] wrote:
>> On Jan 31, 11:55 pm, "Steve" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> > It works really great for cutting holes in drywall. Hang the drywall, then
>> > cut out around the outlet boxes and light fixtures. Use the fixture as a
>> > guide. No measuring required.
>>
>> The problem with this is the edge of the outlet/switch box will be
>> 1/2" below the finish side of the drywall. I know some/most of the
>> screws on outlets/switches can span the 1/2" but it just seems like a
>> poor quality job to have the outlet/switch box not at the surface of
>> the drywall.
>
>Just read the other responses of just barely tacking the drywall in
>place and cutting out the hole with the box in its proper 1/2" proud
>of the studs position then sliding the drywall over the box hole and
>finishing the drywall screwing. Might have to try this with my Sears
>Dremel next time I hang drywall. I'va always done the measure where
>the box is and cut the drywall before putting it on the wall method.
Should have read this before I posted the last one. Sorry!
If you're going to try it with the Dremel (and I haven't,) I'd suggest
getting one of those "router" attachments so that you've got a way to
keep the bit perpendicular to the wall. Should work fine, then- but
freehanding it might be a bit more trouble than it's worth, and
probably not a good reflection of the potential it has.
"Joe Bleau" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In a fit of unrestrained impulse buying I purchased a RotoZip
about 18
> months ago. There was a residual vision in my mind of their TV
ad
> where the things effortlessly zips through every thing. A
couple of
> months later I went to use it for the first time. I think I
wanted to
> cut a circle or an arc in a piece of hardboard (Masonite) I was
using
> to make a jig.
>
> It didn't perform so I put it back in its case and used my
trusted old
> Bosch jig saw instead.
>
> Now, I was just wondering if I should have spent more time
mastering
> its use or whether I should just leave it in the pile of other
> worthless gadgets I have accumulated over the years.
>
> I am sure this group will have the answer.
>
> Joe
Works great on hung drywall and wall paneling, period.
Len