dimensions. . .I would be interested in some dimension you all have =
built. I don't want to build one I need help moving to the saw. I have a =
Delta contractor style saw with 30" Unifence and extension on a Delta =
mobile base. The panel body will be 1/2" Baltic birch, the two runners =
will be red oak and the front and rear fences will be from 2x lumber. =
Any suggestions and/or caveats would be much appreciated. I have done =
extensive web searching with at least 4 different search engines and =
nothing strikes me as what I would like.=20
TIA.
--=20
SwampBug
- - - - - - - - - - - -
"SwampBug" wrote in message
dimensions. . .I would be interested in some dimension you all have built. I
don't want to build one I need help moving to the saw. I have a Delta
contractor style saw with 30" Unifence and extension on a Delta mobile base.
The panel body will be 1/2" Baltic birch, the two runners will be red oak
and the front and rear fences will be from 2x lumber. Any suggestions and/or
caveats would be much appreciated. I have done extensive web searching with
at least 4 different search engines and nothing strikes me as what I would
like.
I have three in the shop right now. The most useful is a smaller one I just
made a couple of weeks ago to cut a ton of drawer parts. It will cut a 13"
panel if need be, but is the perfect size for about 90% of the smaller parts
like aprons, table legs and drawer sides.
I've always had a tendency to use my sliding miter saw for crosscuts, but
since making this particular sled I've been reaching for it instead.
Nothing fancy, but there is a picture, and some rough dimensions, on the
Jigs portion of my site below ...if you have any questions, just ask away.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 5/14/05
Thanks for the links and the tip on the sawdust relief. . .capital idea! =
<s>
I'll need a helper to move that thang to the sawer. . .<s>
--=20
SwampBug
- - - - - - - - - - - -
"Dave Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message =
news:[email protected]...
I made one using a 24x48" piece of 1/2 inch birch ply -- I used the=20
whole piece. Like you, I have a Delta Contractor Saw, and I like the=20
stability of the sled this size. I can crosscut pieces up to about 22"=20
wide.
One tip I came across when searching for plans was to cut a small rabbet =
along the bottom of the front fence (closer to you) to give the=20
sawdust someplace to accumulate.
I used UHMW strips for the runners, because I didn't have any hardwood=20
around.
Here's a couple URL's I saved when I was searching. Good luck, and have =
fun!
http://www.imaging.robarts.ca/~amulder/wood/j.sled2/
http://webpages.charter.net/pminmo/wood1.htm
http://www.inthewoodshop.org/projects/xcutsled.shtml
SwampBug wrote:
> dimensions. . .I would be interested in some dimension you all have =
built. I don't want to build one I need help moving to the saw. I have a =
Delta contractor style saw with 30" Unifence and extension on a Delta =
mobile base. The panel body will be 1/2" Baltic birch, the two runners =
will be red oak and the front and rear fences will be from 2x lumber. =
Any suggestions and/or caveats would be much appreciated. I have done =
extensive web searching with at least 4 different search engines and =
nothing strikes me as what I would like.=20
> TIA.
>=20
>"SwampBug" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:1urhe.5030$Db6.4781@okepread05...
>dimensions. . .I would be interested in some dimension you all have built.
>I don't want to build one I need help moving to the saw. I have a Delta
>contractor style saw with 30" Unifence and extension on a Delta mobile
>base. The panel body will be 1/2" Baltic birch, the two runners will be red
>oak and the front and rear fences will be from 2x lumber. Any suggestions
>and/or caveats would be much appreciated. I have done extensive web
>searching with at least 4 different search engines and nothing strikes me
>as what I would like.
Mine is 1/2" plywood, runners are hard maple, and the rear fence is 2x1/2"
laminated plywood, about 8" high. The front fence is just a chunk of 2x6,
neither as wide nor as flat as the other.
For years my rear fence was just glued onto the base, but after it got
knocked over a couple of times (I leave it on the floor standing under the
TS extension wing when I'm not using it) the wood (not the glue) gave way.
So now it's screwed and glued in place. Make sure you don't screw it where
the blade's going to go!
I periodically screw a block of wood at a 45 degree angle onto the middle of
the sled. It's 90 degree leading corner acts as a fence when I want to cut
complementary miters for picture frames and the like. Just make sure your
rear fence isn't so wide that you're limited in the length of stock you can
miter. Moving the block closer to the front of the sled would also give you
more width to play with at the fence line. My rear fence is 28" wide.
The total width of the sled is 4'. It's depth is a little less than the
depth of the table saw. You want to make sure it's not going to want to tip
over once you push the fence past the centre of the blade. Sometimes mine
does this and it's annoying, but it only does it when I go too far, maybe on
the day I give the bottom a fresh rubbing of wax.
It's one of my most useful tools.
- Owen -
On Sun, 15 May 2005 19:08:40 -0400, "Owen Lawrence"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>For me the hardest part was making absolutely sure the fence was
>perpendicular to the blade. I wouldn't say these things are exactly easy to
>build, but that's me. I'm really glad for having done it, anyway.
>
> - Owen -
>
>
---------------------------
I solved that problem a long time ago...I use what could be described
as two fences... the one is fixed, glued and screwed in place... The
second is the real fence which is secured only on one side... but can
be adjusted using a few T nuts bolts and wing nuts OFF the fixed
base... just allows me to fine tune the fence to a PERFECT 90 degrees
in a few seconds even years after the sled was made...
Just my way....no highway ...
Bob Griffiths
I made one using a 24x48" piece of 1/2 inch birch ply -- I used the
whole piece. Like you, I have a Delta Contractor Saw, and I like the
stability of the sled this size. I can crosscut pieces up to about 22"
wide.
One tip I came across when searching for plans was to cut a small rabbet
along the bottom of the front fence (closer to you) to give the
sawdust someplace to accumulate.
I used UHMW strips for the runners, because I didn't have any hardwood
around.
Here's a couple URL's I saved when I was searching. Good luck, and have
fun!
http://www.imaging.robarts.ca/~amulder/wood/j.sled2/
http://webpages.charter.net/pminmo/wood1.htm
http://www.inthewoodshop.org/projects/xcutsled.shtml
SwampBug wrote:
> dimensions. . .I would be interested in some dimension you all have built. I don't want to build one I need help moving to the saw. I have a Delta contractor style saw with 30" Unifence and extension on a Delta mobile base. The panel body will be 1/2" Baltic birch, the two runners will be red oak and the front and rear fences will be from 2x lumber. Any suggestions and/or caveats would be much appreciated. I have done extensive web searching with at least 4 different search engines and nothing strikes me as what I would like.
> TIA.
>
I was curious but with splitting in mind. Seems like one way would be =
more prone to splitting.=20
--=20
SwampBug
- - - - - - - - - - - -
"Owen Lawrence" <[email protected]> wrote in message =
news:[email protected]...
>I apologize for the poorly worded question. Let me try this approach. . =
.if=20
>you view a runner on end as it sits on the saw , is the end grain =
vertical=20
>or horizontal? Seems like it would make a difference somehow. . .maybe =
it=20
>won't but I would still to know. <s>
I took a look, and the grain is oriented vertically, and I think I know =
why.=20
The runners were ripped off the edge of a wide board that already had=20
exactly the thickness I needed as the width. Now that you mention it, =
it=20
seems like a good idea to pay attention next time (when I build my =
_fourth_=20
sled), but as I said before, it hasn't really been a problem.
For me the hardest part was making absolutely sure the fence was=20
perpendicular to the blade. I wouldn't say these things are exactly =
easy to=20
build, but that's me. I'm really glad for having done it, anyway.
- Owen -
SwampBug wrote:
> I can search local libraries online but I do not see that book listed, tho I may have a chance at books-a-million. I am leaning towards what seems to be a 'large' sled'. I will gather parts cut to size and check weight then decide if smaller is better! Thanks.
>
Try searching for Fred Bingham.
Lew
Ha! I should have access to 5/4 oak for $0.50/bf.. .<g> thanks.
--=20
SwampBug
- - - - - - - - - - - -
"toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message =
news:[email protected]...
I used 1/4" for the body panel. It is lighter and gets you a 1/4" =
closer to=20
the saw. Just a bit more difficult to attach the fences. It has held =
up=20
fine for a year now.
(I also used 5/4 oak for the fences, but if you didn't happen to buy =
more=20
than you will ever use for $0.50/bf, you probably wouldn't want to do =
that.)=20
I can search local libraries online but I do not see that book listed, =
tho I may have a chance at books-a-million. I am leaning towards what =
seems to be a 'large' sled'. I will gather parts cut to size and check =
weight then decide if smaller is better! Thanks.
--=20
SwampBug
- - - - - - - - - - - -
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message =
news:c%[email protected]...
SwampBug wrote:
> dimensions. . .I would be interested in some dimension you all have =
built. I don't want to build one I need help moving to the saw. I have a =
Delta contractor style saw with 30" Unifence and extension on a Delta =
mobile base. The panel body will be 1/2" Baltic birch, the two runners =
will be red oak and the front and rear fences will be from 2x lumber. =
Any suggestions and/or caveats would be much appreciated. I have done =
extensive web searching with at least 4 different search engines and =
nothing strikes me as what I would like.=20
> TIA.
>=20
I have exactly the saw set up you have.
Get Fred Bingham's book, Practical Yacht Joinery from the library and=20
read the section on what he calls a SLAT, everybody here calls a sled.
After you read his reasons for making what he made, it may have some=20
impact on what you build.
BTW, I build Bingham's version using 9 ply for the base and 13 ply for=20
the fence.
A tad heavy, but it works great.
HTH
Lew
I like the proportions of your sled tho I find no dimensions. I am =
thinking 20x44 for the base but I will still have to use 2x lumber for =
fences. . .dressed of course.
thanks.
--=20
SwampBug
- - - - - - - - - - - -
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message =
news:[email protected]...
"SwampBug" wrote in message
dimensions. . .I would be interested in some dimension you all have =
built. I
don't want to build one I need help moving to the saw. I have a Delta
contractor style saw with 30" Unifence and extension on a Delta mobile =
base.
The panel body will be 1/2" Baltic birch, the two runners will be red =
oak
and the front and rear fences will be from 2x lumber. Any suggestions =
and/or
caveats would be much appreciated. I have done extensive web searching =
with
at least 4 different search engines and nothing strikes me as what I =
would
like.
I have three in the shop right now. The most useful is a smaller one I =
just
made a couple of weeks ago to cut a ton of drawer parts. It will cut a =
13"
panel if need be, but is the perfect size for about 90% of the smaller =
parts
like aprons, table legs and drawer sides.
I've always had a tendency to use my sliding miter saw for crosscuts, =
but
since making this particular sled I've been reaching for it instead.
Nothing fancy, but there is a picture, and some rough dimensions, on the
Jigs portion of my site below ...if you have any questions, just ask =
away.
--=20
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 5/14/05
Thanks. gotta conserve finances so will prolly go with wood. . .at least =
at first.
--=20
SwampBug
- - - - - - - - - - - -
"Bob G." <[email protected]> wrote in message =
news:[email protected]...
On Sat, 14 May 2005 13:31:26 -0500, "SwampBug" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>dimensions. . .I would be interested in some dimension you all have =
built. I don't want to build one I need help moving to the saw. I have a =
Delta contractor style saw with 30" Unifence and extension on a Delta =
mobile base. The panel body will be 1/2" Baltic birch, the two runners =
will be red oak and the front and rear fences will be from 2x lumber. =
Any suggestions and/or caveats would be much appreciated. I have done =
extensive web searching with at least 4 different search engines and =
nothing strikes me as what I would like.=20
>TIA.
I must have at least a half dozen sleds that I use on both of my
Tablesaws...and the demensions are all completely different... The
demensions are all determined by the intended use of the sled...
I do not like HEAVY sleds...but some (especially the larger ones are
HEAVY... ) most of mine are made with 3/4 inch Ply...although I do
have a few made with 1/2 inch ply....
I gave up long ago on using wood for runners prefer to use Phenolic
like plastic (forgot the real name of the material) and I spend twice
as long "fitting the runners" as I do constructing the sled... The
wood runners swell or contracts etc...
Lots of luck...
Bob
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
<snip>
> I have three in the shop right now. The most useful is a smaller one I
> just made a couple of weeks ago to cut a ton of drawer parts. It will
> cut a 13" panel if need be, but is the perfect size for about 90% of
> the smaller parts like aprons, table legs and drawer sides.
>
Mine look like Swingman's, for some strange reason. ;-) And I agree, the
smallest gets the most use, and seems to be the most accurate.
The front and back fences in mine are dressed KD Vertical Grain Douglas
Fir. A $20 2x6 that started straight and has stayed straight. An oak
safety block has been attached to the blade exit point where thumbs might
otherwise be endangered.
Patriarch
"C & S" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
<snip>
> As an aside, I recently added a fixture to my single sided sled. Its a
> stop that reaches past (over) the blade. I made this for shoulder cuts
> on tennons so that the offcut could fall down to the table. That is,
> the trimmed piece was *not* in contact with the base of the sled,
> *not* in catact with the fence and *not* in contact with the stop
> block. It's just safer that way.
>
This sounds useful, but I'm having a hard time visualizing it.
Care to try again for those of us who are a little slow this morning?
Patriarch
SwampBug wrote:
> dimensions. . .I would be interested in some dimension you all have built. I don't want to build one I need help moving to the saw. I have a Delta contractor style saw with 30" Unifence and extension on a Delta mobile base. The panel body will be 1/2" Baltic birch, the two runners will be red oak and the front and rear fences will be from 2x lumber. Any suggestions and/or caveats would be much appreciated. I have done extensive web searching with at least 4 different search engines and nothing strikes me as what I would like.
> TIA.
>
I have exactly the saw set up you have.
Get Fred Bingham's book, Practical Yacht Joinery from the library and
read the section on what he calls a SLAT, everybody here calls a sled.
After you read his reasons for making what he made, it may have some
impact on what you build.
BTW, I build Bingham's version using 9 ply for the base and 13 ply for
the fence.
A tad heavy, but it works great.
HTH
Lew
I will consider the 'miter' feature with a shortened back fence. I may =
have need of that in the near future if I can't tame my Dewalt 12" CMS. =
How did you orient the grain in the runners, along the width(3/4") or =
the height(3/8")? Thanks
--=20
SwampBug
- - - - - - - - - - - -
"Owen Lawrence" <[email protected]> wrote in message =
news:[email protected]...
>"SwampBug" <[email protected]> wrote in message=20
>news:1urhe.5030$Db6.4781@okepread05...
>dimensions. . .I would be interested in some dimension you all have =
built.=20
>I don't want to build one I need help moving to the saw. I have a Delta =
>contractor style saw with 30" Unifence and extension on a Delta mobile=20
>base. The panel body will be 1/2" Baltic birch, the two runners will be =
red=20
>oak and the front and rear fences will be from 2x lumber. Any =
suggestions=20
>and/or caveats would be much appreciated. I have done extensive web=20
>searching with at least 4 different search engines and nothing strikes =
me=20
>as what I would like.
Mine is 1/2" plywood, runners are hard maple, and the rear fence is =
2x1/2"=20
laminated plywood, about 8" high. The front fence is just a chunk of =
2x6,=20
neither as wide nor as flat as the other.
For years my rear fence was just glued onto the base, but after it got=20
knocked over a couple of times (I leave it on the floor standing under =
the=20
TS extension wing when I'm not using it) the wood (not the glue) gave =
way.=20
So now it's screwed and glued in place. Make sure you don't screw it =
where=20
the blade's going to go!
I periodically screw a block of wood at a 45 degree angle onto the =
middle of=20
the sled. It's 90 degree leading corner acts as a fence when I want to =
cut=20
complementary miters for picture frames and the like. Just make sure =
your=20
rear fence isn't so wide that you're limited in the length of stock you =
can=20
miter. Moving the block closer to the front of the sled would also give =
you=20
more width to play with at the fence line. My rear fence is 28" wide.
The total width of the sled is 4'. It's depth is a little less than the =
depth of the table saw. You want to make sure it's not going to want to =
tip=20
over once you push the fence past the centre of the blade. Sometimes =
mine=20
does this and it's annoying, but it only does it when I go too far, =
maybe on=20
the day I give the bottom a fresh rubbing of wax.
It's one of my most useful tools.
- Owen -=20
I think Bob has hit on it. You can't just have one. I have a big sled, dual
runner, about 20x40 on 1/2" plywood base and a smallish (about 16" square)
single runner sled that actully get most of the use.
Some times you need big with support on both sides of the kerf, but that is
bulky. Other times small is just fine.
As an aside, I recently added a fixture to my single sided sled. Its a stop
that reaches past (over) the blade. I made this for shoulder cuts on tennons
so that the offcut could fall down to the table. That is, the trimmed piece
was *not* in contact with the base of the sled, *not* in catact with the
fence and *not* in contact with the stop block. It's just safer that way.
-Steve
"Bob G." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sat, 14 May 2005 13:31:26 -0500, "SwampBug" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >dimensions. . .I would be interested in some dimension you all have
built. I don't want to build one I need help moving to the saw. I have a
Delta contractor style saw with 30" Unifence and extension on a Delta mobile
base. The panel body will be 1/2" Baltic birch, the two runners will be red
oak and the front and rear fences will be from 2x lumber. Any suggestions
and/or caveats would be much appreciated. I have done extensive web
searching with at least 4 different search engines and nothing strikes me as
what I would like.
> >TIA.
>
> I must have at least a half dozen sleds that I use on both of my
> Tablesaws...and the demensions are all completely different... The
> demensions are all determined by the intended use of the sled...
>
> I do not like HEAVY sleds...but some (especially the larger ones are
> HEAVY... ) most of mine are made with 3/4 inch Ply...although I do
> have a few made with 1/2 inch ply....
>
> I gave up long ago on using wood for runners prefer to use Phenolic
> like plastic (forgot the real name of the material) and I spend twice
> as long "fitting the runners" as I do constructing the sled... The
> wood runners swell or contracts etc...
>
> Lots of luck...
>
> Bob
On Sun, 15 May 2005 09:39:07 -0500, "SwampBug" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I apologize for the poorly worded question. Let me try this approach. . .if you view a runner on end as it sits on the saw , is the end grain vertical or horizontal? Seems like it would make a difference somehow. . .maybe it won't but I would still to know. <s>
The grain oriented horizontally would probably be best, but I've
honestly never paid attention on mine. <G>
Barry
I apologize for the poorly worded question. Let me try this approach. . =
.if you view a runner on end as it sits on the saw , is the end grain =
vertical or horizontal? Seems like it would make a difference somehow. . =
.maybe it won't but I would still to know. <s>=20
--=20
SwampBug
- - - - - - - - - - - -
"Owen Lawrence" <[email protected]> wrote in message =
news:[email protected]...
>I will consider the 'miter' feature with a shortened back fence. I may =
have=20
>need of that in the near future if I can't tame my Dewalt 12" CMS. How =
did=20
>you orient the grain in the runners, along the width(3/4") or the=20
>height(3/8")? Thanks
I'm not sure. I have long grain parallel to the miter slot, and the =
runner=20
fills the width of the slot, but not the depth (leaving room for some=20
sawdust below it). In really humid weather it might make enough =
difference=20
for me to add a bit of wax but I've never had any problems with binding =
or=20
with slop. Maybe I don't understand the question.
- Owen -=20
On Sat, 14 May 2005 13:31:26 -0500, "SwampBug" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>dimensions. . .I would be interested in some dimension you all have built. I don't want to build one I need help moving to the saw. I have a Delta contractor style saw with 30" Unifence and extension on a Delta mobile base. The panel body will be 1/2" Baltic birch, the two runners will be red oak and the front and rear fences will be from 2x lumber. Any suggestions and/or caveats would be much appreciated. I have done extensive web searching with at least 4 different search engines and nothing strikes me as what I would like.
>TIA.
I must have at least a half dozen sleds that I use on both of my
Tablesaws...and the demensions are all completely different... The
demensions are all determined by the intended use of the sled...
I do not like HEAVY sleds...but some (especially the larger ones are
HEAVY... ) most of mine are made with 3/4 inch Ply...although I do
have a few made with 1/2 inch ply....
I gave up long ago on using wood for runners prefer to use Phenolic
like plastic (forgot the real name of the material) and I spend twice
as long "fitting the runners" as I do constructing the sled... The
wood runners swell or contracts etc...
Lots of luck...
Bob
On Mon, 16 May 2005 22:08:25 -0400, "Owen Lawrence" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>>>For me the hardest part was making absolutely sure the fence was
>>>perpendicular to the blade. I wouldn't say these things are exactly easy
>>>to
>>>build, but that's me. I'm really glad for having done it, anyway.
>>>
>>> - Owen -
>>>
>> ---------------------------
>> I solved that problem a long time ago...I use what could be described
>> as two fences... the one is fixed, glued and screwed in place... The
>> second is the real fence which is secured only on one side... but can
>> be adjusted using a few T nuts bolts and wing nuts OFF the fixed
>> base... just allows me to fine tune the fence to a PERFECT 90 degrees
>> in a few seconds even years after the sled was made...
>>
>> Just my way....no highway ...
>>
>> Bob Griffiths
>
>Excellent! I've been wondering how I could make a micro adjustment. It
>never occurred to me to use two fences. Now I know. Thanks!
>
> - Owen -
>
I got mine very close, then use tape shims to get the final bit of
perfection
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
>>For me the hardest part was making absolutely sure the fence was
>>perpendicular to the blade. I wouldn't say these things are exactly easy
>>to
>>build, but that's me. I'm really glad for having done it, anyway.
>>
>> - Owen -
>>
> ---------------------------
> I solved that problem a long time ago...I use what could be described
> as two fences... the one is fixed, glued and screwed in place... The
> second is the real fence which is secured only on one side... but can
> be adjusted using a few T nuts bolts and wing nuts OFF the fixed
> base... just allows me to fine tune the fence to a PERFECT 90 degrees
> in a few seconds even years after the sled was made...
>
> Just my way....no highway ...
>
> Bob Griffiths
Excellent! I've been wondering how I could make a micro adjustment. It
never occurred to me to use two fences. Now I know. Thanks!
- Owen -
>I apologize for the poorly worded question. Let me try this approach. . .if
>you view a runner on end as it sits on the saw , is the end grain vertical
>or horizontal? Seems like it would make a difference somehow. . .maybe it
>won't but I would still to know. <s>
I took a look, and the grain is oriented vertically, and I think I know why.
The runners were ripped off the edge of a wide board that already had
exactly the thickness I needed as the width. Now that you mention it, it
seems like a good idea to pay attention next time (when I build my _fourth_
sled), but as I said before, it hasn't really been a problem.
For me the hardest part was making absolutely sure the fence was
perpendicular to the blade. I wouldn't say these things are exactly easy to
build, but that's me. I'm really glad for having done it, anyway.
- Owen -
Oh, I will go there and inquire, bypass the 'modern conveniences'. . =
.<s> Thanks again.
--=20
SwampBug
- - - - - - - - - - - -
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message =
news:[email protected]...
SwampBug wrote:
> I can search local libraries online but I do not see that book listed, =
tho I may have a chance at books-a-million. I am leaning towards what =
seems to be a 'large' sled'. I will gather parts cut to size and check =
weight then decide if smaller is better! Thanks.
>=20
Try searching for Fred Bingham.
Lew
>I will consider the 'miter' feature with a shortened back fence. I may have
>need of that in the near future if I can't tame my Dewalt 12" CMS. How did
>you orient the grain in the runners, along the width(3/4") or the
>height(3/8")? Thanks
I'm not sure. I have long grain parallel to the miter slot, and the runner
fills the width of the slot, but not the depth (leaving room for some
sawdust below it). In really humid weather it might make enough difference
for me to add a bit of wax but I've never had any problems with binding or
with slop. Maybe I don't understand the question.
- Owen -
I used 1/4" for the body panel. It is lighter and gets you a 1/4" closer to
the saw. Just a bit more difficult to attach the fences. It has held up
fine for a year now.
(I also used 5/4 oak for the fences, but if you didn't happen to buy more
than you will ever use for $0.50/bf, you probably wouldn't want to do that.)
Ba r r y wrote:
> On Sun, 15 May 2005 09:39:07 -0500, "SwampBug" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>
>>I apologize for the poorly worded question. Let me try this approach. . .if you view a runner on end as it sits on the saw , is the end grain vertical or horizontal? Seems like it would make a difference somehow. . .maybe it won't but I would still to know. <s>
>
>
>
> The grain oriented horizontally would probably be best, but I've
> honestly never paid attention on mine. <G>
>
> Barry
I think you are probably right. OTOH, I have two
sleds and the grain is oriented vertically and I
don't have any problem (but I live where high
humidity is not a problem).