I am building kitchen cabinets and part of the design is to build a
tall deep kitchen pantry. It is 8' high from floor to ceiling, 30" wide
and 30" deep. I am looking for good design how to organize such deep
pantry so it will be easy accessible. I'm planning in lower half of
the pantry to use several pull out shelves with full extension extra
heavy duty drawers. However for upper side of the pantry I didn't
find solution that I would like despite I checked several of them. I do
not like Lazy Suzan for this as it waists a lot of space and difficult
to access for upper shelves. Any links and suggestions would be
appreciated.
I have used a kitchen that had this type of storage, IMO this type of
system has too much wasted volume.
http://rollingshelves.com/
What type of system you settle on depends on what you're trying to
store., you will need some sort of rollout / pullout system to take
full advantage of the 30" depth
Years ago a I saw (in Sunset) a rollout floor to ceiling shelving
system that could really store & give good access to a lot of stuff.
kinda like this but rolling on the floor rather than hung & very tall;
floor to ceiling
http://www.cabinetparts.com/cgi-local/shop_2003.pl/page=rev_pullout_base.html/SID=1127264447.8595
here is a better view but the website is SLOW and tedious!!!!
http://www.kraftmaid.com/storage/index.cfm?navigationid=42200
on concept could be "very deep door shelves; such that are nearly 1/2
the 30" depth. When you open them you could actually step into the void
created by the open doors
cheers
Bob
I agree about the Lazy Susan solution; even in the best installation
you'll be wasting about 25% of the space just due to the "round vs
square" geometry
Sasha wrote:
> I am building kitchen cabinets and part of the design is to build a
> tall deep kitchen pantry. It is 8' high from floor to ceiling, 30" wide
> and 30" deep. I am looking for good design how to organize such deep
> pantry so it will be easy accessible. I'm planning in lower half of
> the pantry to use several pull out shelves with full extension extra
> heavy duty drawers. However for upper side of the pantry I didn't
> find solution that I would like despite I checked several of them. I do
> not like Lazy Suzan for this as it waists a lot of space and difficult
> to access for upper shelves. Any links and suggestions would be
> appreciated.
This might be a bit difficult to put into words, but I'll try.
Build a sleeve with a partition vertically down the middle.
The shape would resemble the capital letter I as in I-beam as you are
facing the 'door' which covers the front of this shape. The door does
not 'open' as such, it pulls straight towards you.
You therefore have access to half of the cabinets volume from the left
and the other half from the right.
When you look at it, say from the left, you see a shelf unit 30" wide
(almost) the full height and approx 15" deep. You can mount shelves
between the back of the sleeve ( which is to your left and the 'door'
which is to your right. The same thing on the other side if you were to
observe the 'sleeve' from the right side of the door. The sleeve has to
be smaller than the cabinet. Smaller by the amount you'll need to mount
full exrension 100-pound ball-bearing drawer slides.
Now comes the tricky part.
If you stand in front of the sleeve, one drawer track will at the
botton left corner, the other track will be at the top right.
Both tracks will carry the load. The top track keeps the sleeve from
falling over to the right.
(If you were to try to put both tracks at the bottom, it would be an
alignment nightmare.
This way, no problem.
I will make a drawing and post it on
alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking... but I'm accessing the Wreck
through Google as my news servers is down for repairs. Sooo.. this
could be a few days.
I built 8 foot cabinets for our kitchen, as my wife wanted the maximum
shelves. We were fortunate that we had a large skylight cut out in the
kitchen otherwise we could not have stood the cabinets up to install
them. So be aware of what you can install. Best of luck. I have had
a lot of satisfaction from building them and much more storage than
boughten ones.
Al Holstein
The pantry is in the kitchen adjacent to refrigerator. In lower half of
the pantry I am building shelves on full extension 250# slides that
have baskets for storing fruits and vegetables. In upper half of the
pantry we plan to store ordinary food items: boxes of cereal, flower,
honey, sugar, canned food, etc. There also items that are used rarely,
like candles, boxes of foil, plastic wraps and other stuff bought as
Costco. I want design that is easily accessible and full utilize entire
pantry space.
Sasha wrote:
> I am building kitchen cabinets and part of the design is to build a
> tall deep kitchen pantry. It is 8' high from floor to ceiling, 30" wide
> and 30" deep. I am looking for good design how to organize such deep
> pantry so it will be easy accessible. I'm planning in lower half of
> the pantry to use several pull out shelves with full extension extra
> heavy duty drawers. However for upper side of the pantry I didn't
> find solution that I would like despite I checked several of them. I do
> not like Lazy Suzan for this as it waists a lot of space and difficult
> to access for upper shelves. Any links and suggestions would be
> appreciated.
>
It would help to know more about your needs and your plans for this
space. What are you planning on using the drawers for? Is the pantry
planned for food storage or cooking/serving stuff? Do you store rarely
used - like the big roaster for t'giving turkey - somewhere else, like
the garage?
In a space that size, it seems tall roll-out shelves would be most
efficient, without the drawers below. But, then, I don't know the rest
of the picture.
When we looked into a total re-do of our kitchen, the roll out shelves
did not seem built to efficiently use the space. I loved the idea of
drawers beneath the cooktop for pots, pans, etc., but we decided to
reface cabinets and get new doors/drawers instead.
Narrow roll-outs could be used for platters, lids, canned goods, cereal
boxes, hanging table linents, etc. Upper shelves, with plastic
containers, can be great for stuff that is not used often - candy
thermometers, cake decorating, turkey baster, formal and holiday stuff
"Sasha" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I am building kitchen cabinets and part of the design is to build a
> tall deep kitchen pantry. It is 8' high from floor to ceiling, 30" wide
> and 30" deep. I am looking for good design how to organize such deep
> pantry so it will be easy accessible. I'm planning in lower half of
> the pantry to use several pull out shelves with full extension extra
> heavy duty drawers. However for upper side of the pantry I didn't
> find solution that I would like despite I checked several of them. I do
> not like Lazy Suzan for this as it waists a lot of space and difficult
> to access for upper shelves. Any links and suggestions would be
> appreciated.
>
We just built a kitchen with a spice pantry, and a general goods pantry. The
former is just 5 3/4 inches deep by 7 ft. high. The latter is 10 inches deep
and 7 ft high. 30 inches is way too deep in my experience. And eight feet
high is nigh onto unreachable. I am 6 ft 4 in. and can *just* safely reach
the top shelf at a little less than 7 feet high. If you are wedded to the
idea of 30 in. depth, use roll-out walled shelving at waist height and
below; and indented shelves above chest level, perhaps at most 1 foot deep,
with some space in front of them. The other way to reduce shelf depth is to
use doors with built-in shelving, that slot into the void in front of the
fixed shelves. This takes special European style internal hinges to do it
right.
On 20 Sep 2005 15:04:31 -0700, "Sasha" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I am building kitchen cabinets and part of the design is to build a
>tall deep kitchen pantry. It is 8' high from floor to ceiling, 30" wide
>and 30" deep. I am looking for good design how to organize such deep
>pantry so it will be easy accessible. I'm planning in lower half of
>the pantry to use several pull out shelves with full extension extra
>heavy duty drawers. However for upper side of the pantry I didn't
>find solution that I would like despite I checked several of them. I do
>not like Lazy Suzan for this as it waists a lot of space and difficult
>to access for upper shelves. Any links and suggestions would be
>appreciated.
Movable trolleys on a track like a garage door, complete with
lift-springs and pnuematic cylinders? Either that,
or a pull-out stepladder built in next to the lower shelves,
or attached to the door.
"Sasha" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am building kitchen cabinets and part of the design is to build a
> tall deep kitchen pantry. It is 8' high from floor to ceiling, 30" wide
> and 30" deep. I am looking for good design how to organize such deep
> pantry so it will be easy accessible.
Not sure how much you want to spend on this, but Lee Valley Tools sells
three different pantry units that might fill your needs.
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=2&p=43655&cat=3,43648,43653
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=2&p=48709&cat=3,43722,43723
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=2&p=48714&cat=3,43722,43723
"Sasha" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am building kitchen cabinets and part of the design is to build a
> tall deep kitchen pantry. It is 8' high from floor to ceiling, 30" wide
> and 30" deep. I am looking for good design how to organize such deep
> pantry so it will be easy accessible. I'm planning in lower half of
> the pantry to use several pull out shelves with full extension extra
> heavy duty drawers. However for upper side of the pantry I didn't
> find solution that I would like despite I checked several of them. I do
> not like Lazy Suzan for this as it waists a lot of space and difficult
> to access for upper shelves. Any links and suggestions would be
> appreciated.
30 inches is way to deep for the average woman to use effectively.
Especially the uppers.
I offer the following link
http://www.usindustrialfasteners.com/
They are located in Tempe AZ and will ship all over the country. They have
lots of interior organization products from lots of manufactures.
They have an 800 number and used to mail catalogs out when requested.
In article <[email protected]>,
"Stephen M" <[email protected]> wrote:
> > (If you were to try to put both tracks at the bottom, it would be an
> > alignment nightmare.
> > This way, no problem.
>
> Your description was excellent, but I lost you on why alignment with slides
> at oposite corners of the I-beam-drawer-box works better.
When the 'drawer is as tall as a 78" x 27.25" ( an outside pantry of 30"
using 5/8 gables and 3/4" thick slides) box it's like balancing a broom
handle on your finger tips. It's much more stable when you grab the
top... and is no need for two pairs of tracks..when one pair will do....
and those 9301 Accuride series heavy duty jobs are expensive.
One at the top-right, one at the bottom left.
The more you look at it, the more sense it makes.
>
> How is that different from any other big "drawer"?
Well.. you can try both at the bottom.. you can always move one to the
top <G>
>
> Maybe the picture will clarify
It is posted now.
> (If you were to try to put both tracks at the bottom, it would be an
> alignment nightmare.
> This way, no problem.
Your description was excellent, but I lost you on why alignment with slides
at oposite corners of the I-beam-drawer-box works better.
How is that different from any other big "drawer"?
> I will make a drawing and post it on
> alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking... but I'm accessing the Wreck
> through Google as my news servers is down for repairs. Sooo.. this
> could be a few days.
Maybe the picture will clarify
IF this beast is going to be 8' tall, it would be really nice to integrate
a footstool into the kitchen cabinetry somewhere. You'll need some kind of
assistance to get to the top shelf.
"Sasha" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> The pantry is in the kitchen adjacent to refrigerator. In lower half of
> the pantry I am building shelves on full extension 250# slides that
> have baskets for storing fruits and vegetables. In upper half of the
> pantry we plan to store ordinary food items: boxes of cereal, flower,
> honey, sugar, canned food, etc. There also items that are used rarely,
> like candles, boxes of foil, plastic wraps and other stuff bought as
> Costco. I want design that is easily accessible and full utilize entire
> pantry space.
>
The baskets might make an esthetically nice solution, but
you'll find that a lot of things will spoil faster if
stored near the wrong items. Potatoes need high humidity,
and onions need low humidity.
Sasha wrote:
> The pantry is in the kitchen adjacent to refrigerator. In lower half of
> the pantry I am building shelves on full extension 250# slides that
> have baskets for storing fruits and vegetables. In upper half of the
> pantry we plan to store ordinary food items: boxes of cereal, flower,
> honey, sugar, canned food, etc. There also items that are used rarely,
> like candles, boxes of foil, plastic wraps and other stuff bought as
> Costco. I want design that is easily accessible and full utilize entire
> pantry space.
>
>>
>We just built a kitchen with a spice pantry, and a general goods pantry. The
>former is just 5 3/4 inches deep by 7 ft. high. The latter is 10 inches deep
>and 7 ft high. 30 inches is way too deep in my experience. And eight feet
>high is nigh onto unreachable. I am 6 ft 4 in. and can *just* safely reach
Well, one of the houses I grew up in had 8 1/2" ceilings, and
the pantry had lower drawers about 2' deep, and upper cabinets topped
by drawers all the way up to the ceiling. You don't put
anything you're likely to WANT very often in those top cabinets,
and it takes a ladder to get to them.
>the top shelf at a little less than 7 feet high. If you are wedded to the
>idea of 30 in. depth, use roll-out walled shelving at waist height and
>below; and indented shelves above chest level, perhaps at most 1 foot deep,
>with some space in front of them. The other way to reduce shelf depth is to
>use doors with built-in shelving, that slot into the void in front of the
>fixed shelves. This takes special European style internal hinges to do it
>right.
>
On 20 Sep 2005 15:04:31 -0700, "Sasha" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I am building kitchen cabinets and part of the design is to build a
>tall deep kitchen pantry. It is 8' high from floor to ceiling, 30" wide
>and 30" deep. I am looking for good design how to organize such deep
>pantry so it will be easy accessible. I'm planning in lower half of
>the pantry to use several pull out shelves with full extension extra
>heavy duty drawers. However for upper side of the pantry I didn't
>find solution that I would like despite I checked several of them. I do
>not like Lazy Suzan for this as it waists a lot of space and difficult
>to access for upper shelves. Any links and suggestions would be
>appreciated.
Spiral Staircase?
rusty redcloud
"Sasha" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I am building kitchen cabinets and part of the design is to build a
> tall deep kitchen pantry. It is 8' high from floor to ceiling, 30" wide
> and 30" deep. I am looking for good design how to organize such deep
> pantry so it will be easy accessible. I'm planning in lower half of
> the pantry to use several pull out shelves with full extension extra
> heavy duty drawers. However for upper side of the pantry I didn't
> find solution that I would like despite I checked several of them. I do
> not like Lazy Suzan for this as it waists a lot of space and difficult
> to access for upper shelves. Any links and suggestions would be
> appreciated.
>
We had a problem corner. It backed up to a hallway. On the backside, we
made a tall vertical access door, and used that side for vacuum cleaners,
brooms, and tall items. Not sure of your configuration.
If no rear access available, I would use roll out trays.
We put rollouts on almost EVERY storage shelf in our kitchen remodel. It
really makes a difference. It will be particularly helpful with your deep
cabinets, but do not forget to anchor them very very good in the back so the
leverage doesn't cause them to fail.
You are right to take pause and think this through.
Steve