Getting a cheaper rip blade for this makes sense, too. I was
worried not only about ruining the blade, but whether the blade
movement would shatter the foam rather than cut it. I'll be using the
stuff that's about 2" thick
The box I am building is for research purposes (plant physiology) I
need some pretty accurate cuts since I am building an insulated box in
which I will bring in conditioned air. The box will be in a large
walk in growth chamber at high temp, and the pots containing my corn
plants will be in the foam box with a foam lid on it. The conditioned
air will be brought in from the outside of the chamber..so the roots
will see what they see under field conditions..cool and constant, and
the aerial portion will see whatever I want them to see.
I'll support the foam box with treated lumber.
Thanks for the ideas people
Jerry
On Tue, 23 Sep 2003 04:12:12 GMT, <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>Just go buy the cheapest blade you can buy, it will work like a charm you
>will get some of the foam melting to the blade but it will come off with
>blade cleaner. depending on the thickness you may need to snap off the
>remainder that has not been cut
>I just finished cutting up 4" think insulation for about 200 plus feet of
>foundation. It was quick and painless, just used a $10 rip blade
>
>
>
>"Steve Dunbar" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Jerry Ranch wrote:
>>
>> > I don't want to destroy my Forrest blade, but I need to make some
>> > precision cuts with that stiff foam insulation board.
>>
>> How precise? I cut white styrene foam by scoring it about halfway through
>> with a utility knife and snapping it along the score line.
>>
>> At an auction I attended a while ago, there was a Bosch foam-cutting saw
>for
>> sale. You might look around and see if they still make them.
>>
>> --
>> Steve
>
Jerry,
I go the 'neander' route with this stuff . . . use a hacksaw blade. Wrap the
'hand end' with some tape, etc. so you don't cut yourself.
Quick, easy, handy, and above all . . . CHEAP !! {too much trouble & cost to
set-up a 'Hot Wire' system.
I've also used an old serrated 'frozen food' knife. {for cutting 'boxes' of
frozen veggies}. It has also been said that an 'electric knife' with a
serrated blade is both good & quick.
Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop
"Jerry Ranch" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I don't want to destroy my Forrest blade, but I need to make some
> precision cuts with that stiff foam insulation board.
>
> Any blade recommendations?
>
> Thanks
> Jerry
"Jerry Ranch" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I don't want to destroy my Forrest blade, but I need to make some
> precision cuts with that stiff foam insulation board.
>
> Any blade recommendations?
>
> Thanks
> Jerry
Are you talking expanded, extruded, or some other type of foam? Expanded is
the white bead foam, extruded us usually blue or pink, urethanes tend to be
tan.
It will not ruin your blade. Plastic foam is much lighter than wood.
OTOH, the dust tends to be static prone and sticks to stuff easily. Best way
to cut it would be a hot wire that actually melts the foam away. That is
how it is done in industrial setups. Precision is about 1/32" though with
practice, probably 1/16" for a beginner.
Next to that is a knife blade in a bandsaw; slower but no dust. Then a
regular bandsaw blade. As for ruining blades, the one we use at work has
been in the saw for about 12 years.
Hand saws work well also. The blades use for PVC pipe work very well.
Ed
"Jerry Ranch" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I don't want to destroy my Forrest blade, but I need to make some
> precision cuts with that stiff foam insulation board.
>
> Any blade recommendations?
>
> Thanks
> Jerry
I have done it on my table saw. But watch out for kick back!! The blade
really wants to grab the foam. The upside is even if it kicks back, it is
only foam so it doesn't hurt! Watch your hands around the blade when doing
stupid people tricks like this! If the blade grabs the foam, let go, don't
try to hold on!
Greg
Jerry Ranch wrote:
> I don't want to destroy my Forrest blade, but I need to make some
> precision cuts with that stiff foam insulation board.
How precise? I cut white styrene foam by scoring it about halfway through
with a utility knife and snapping it along the score line.
At an auction I attended a while ago, there was a Bosch foam-cutting saw for
sale. You might look around and see if they still make them.
--
Steve
Just go buy the cheapest blade you can buy, it will work like a charm you
will get some of the foam melting to the blade but it will come off with
blade cleaner. depending on the thickness you may need to snap off the
remainder that has not been cut
I just finished cutting up 4" think insulation for about 200 plus feet of
foundation. It was quick and painless, just used a $10 rip blade
"Steve Dunbar" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Jerry Ranch wrote:
>
> > I don't want to destroy my Forrest blade, but I need to make some
> > precision cuts with that stiff foam insulation board.
>
> How precise? I cut white styrene foam by scoring it about halfway through
> with a utility knife and snapping it along the score line.
>
> At an auction I attended a while ago, there was a Bosch foam-cutting saw
for
> sale. You might look around and see if they still make them.
>
> --
> Steve