I just finished making a plywood door for a game cabinet The original
door had been made of particle board, but the 3/8" lip on both ends
had begun to disintegrat over the years.
Since the disadvantage in using plywood is that it tends to warp, is
there a good way to seal it to prevent this before I prime and paint?
I have something called Thompson's WaterSeal, but don't know if I
should use that before I prime with an Enamel Undercoater Primer/
Sealer (by BEHR) I have.
Any recommendations?
Thanks.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 2:21:18 PM UTC-5, Artemus wrote:
> "Searcher7" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:f47a648f-ff46-4b6f-85ea-8abf4d893d15@c16g2000yqi.googlegroups.com...
>
> >I just finished making a plywood door for a game cabinet The original
>
> > door had been made of particle board, but the 3/8" lip on both ends
>
> > had begun to disintegrat over the years.
>
> >
>
> > Since the disadvantage in using plywood is that it tends to warp, is
>
> > there a good way to seal it to prevent this before I prime and paint?
>
> >
>
> > I have something called Thompson's WaterSeal, but don't know if I
>
> > should use that before I prime with an Enamel Undercoater Primer/
>
> > Sealer (by BEHR) I have.
>
> >
>
> > Any recommendations?
>
> >
>
> > Thanks.
>
> >
>
> > Darren Harris
>
> > Staten Island, New York.
>
>
>
> Whatever you end up doing be sure to do the same thing to
>
> both sides of the ply.
>
> Art
Yes. Not to mention the edges.
I just don't like the idea of having to go out and buy something else when I already have a sealer and a primer/sealer.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
On Dec 5, 5:51=A0pm, [email protected] wrote:
> On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 5:31:01 PM UTC-5, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> > "Searcher7" wrote:
>
> > =A0> I just finished making a plywood door for a game cabinet The
>
> > original
>
> > =A0> door had been made of particle board, but the 3/8" lip on both end=
s
>
> > > had begun to disintegrat over the years.
>
> > =A0> Since the disadvantage in using plywood is that it tends to warp,
>
> > is
>
> > > there a good way to seal it to prevent this before I prime and
>
> > > paint?
>
> > -------------------------------------------------------
>
> > Lew Hodgett wrote:
>
> > > Swing already put this to bed.
>
> > > Dewaxed shellac.
>
> > ----------------------------------------------------
>
> > "Searcher7" wrote:
>
> > > I'm not going for a clear finish. The door has to be primed and
>
> > > painted black after I seal it.
>
> > -------------------------------------------
>
> > Clear or painted surface has NOTHING to do with sealing the surface.
>
> > You wanted a sealer which is what dewaxed shellac does and it also
>
> > serves as a primer for the raw materials.
>
> I'm assuming you are saying that the sealer/primer I already have is not =
good enough, correct? And that Zinsser Bullseye=AE SealCoat=99 can be paint=
ed over?
Dewaxed shellac is the best sealer made, can be painted over
with anything.
""Searcher7" wrote:
>I just finished making a plywood door for a game cabinet The original
> door had been made of particle board, but the 3/8" lip on both ends
> had begun to disintegrat over the years.
>
> Since the disadvantage in using plywood is that it tends to warp, is
> there a good way to seal it to prevent this before I prime and
> paint?
-------------------------------------------------------
Swing already put this to bed.
Dewaxed shellac.
Lew
"Searcher7" wrote:
> I just finished making a plywood door for a game cabinet The
original
> door had been made of particle board, but the 3/8" lip on both ends
> had begun to disintegrat over the years.
> Since the disadvantage in using plywood is that it tends to warp,
is
>
> there a good way to seal it to prevent this before I prime and
> paint?
-------------------------------------------------------
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> Swing already put this to bed.
> Dewaxed shellac.
----------------------------------------------------
"Searcher7" wrote:
> I'm not going for a clear finish. The door has to be primed and
> painted black after I seal it.
-------------------------------------------
Clear or painted surface has NOTHING to do with sealing the surface.
You wanted a sealer which is what dewaxed shellac does and it also
serves as a primer for the raw materials.
Lew
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> You wanted a sealer which is what dewaxed shellac does and it also
>
> serves as a primer for the raw materials.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"Searcher7" wrote:
I'm assuming you are saying that the sealer/primer I already have is
not good enough, correct? And that Zinsser Bullseye® SealCoat can be
painted over?
----------------------------------------------------------
You asked for a sealer for the plywood recommendation.
That's what you got.
Never worked with the stuff you have so can't comment about
it's quality.
Zinsser Bullseye® SealCoatis designed as a sealer
that you can paint over.
It is what I would use.
Have fun.
Lew
On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 4:34:16 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 12/5/12 3:04 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>
> >>>> Dewaxed shellac.
>
> >>
>
> >>>
>
> >>
>
> >>> I'm not going for a clear finish. The door has to be primed and
>
> >>
>
> >>> painted black after I seal it.
>
> >>
>
> >>>
>
> >>
>
> >>
>
> >>
>
> >> Your primer and paint will seal it Darren.
>
> >
>
> > Thanks a lot.
>
> >
>
> > So I'm assuming using the Thompson's WaterSeal beforehand wouldn't be needed.
>
> >
>
>
>
> I may be wrong but I don't think that stuff was ever meant to be painted
>
> over.
>
> IIRC, it's some kind of penetrating oil that *doesn't* dissolve or
>
> evaporate. *That's* how it keeps water out.
>
> For your interior paint application, that is probably the worst thing
>
> you could use.
Then I'll stick with just the primer/sealer. I just wish the glue in the Home Depot plywood was as strong as the glue used on the barcode sticker.
I'm trying not to break through the veneer taking it off with a chisel because I'm not sure that "Goof Off" will soak into the wood and effect the primer's performance when I apply it afterwards.
Thanks.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> writes:
>
>"Searcher7" wrote:
>> I'm not going for a clear finish. The door has to be primed and
>> painted black after I seal it.
>-------------------------------------------
>Clear or painted surface has NOTHING to do with sealing the surface.
>
>You wanted a sealer which is what dewaxed shellac does and it also
>serves as a primer for the raw materials.
>
In fact, shellac is a component in KILZ primer.
scott
On 12/4/2012 5:58 PM, Searcher7 wrote:
> I just finished making a plywood door for a game cabinet The original
> door had been made of particle board, but the 3/8" lip on both ends
> had begun to disintegrat over the years.
>
> Since the disadvantage in using plywood is that it tends to warp, is
> there a good way to seal it to prevent this before I prime and paint?
>
> I have something called Thompson's WaterSeal, but don't know if I
> should use that before I prime with an Enamel Undercoater Primer/
> Sealer (by BEHR) I have.
>
> Any recommendations?
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10310
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 5:31:01 PM UTC-5, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "Searcher7" wrote:
>=20
>=20
>=20
> > I just finished making a plywood door for a game cabinet The=20
>=20
> original
>=20
>=20
>=20
> > door had been made of particle board, but the 3/8" lip on both ends
>=20
>=20
>=20
> > had begun to disintegrat over the years.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> > Since the disadvantage in using plywood is that it tends to warp,=20
>=20
> is
>=20
> >
>=20
> > there a good way to seal it to prevent this before I prime and
>=20
>=20
>=20
> > paint?
>=20
> -------------------------------------------------------
>=20
> Lew Hodgett wrote:
>=20
>=20
>=20
> > Swing already put this to bed.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> > Dewaxed shellac.
>=20
> ----------------------------------------------------
>=20
> "Searcher7" wrote:
>=20
>=20
>=20
> > I'm not going for a clear finish. The door has to be primed and=20
>=20
> > painted black after I seal it.
>=20
> -------------------------------------------
>=20
> Clear or painted surface has NOTHING to do with sealing the surface.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> You wanted a sealer which is what dewaxed shellac does and it also
>=20
> serves as a primer for the raw materials.
I'm assuming you are saying that the sealer/primer I already have is not go=
od enough, correct? And that Zinsser Bullseye=AE SealCoat=99 can be painted=
over?
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 3:36:58 PM UTC-5, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> ""Searcher7" wrote:
>
>
>
> >I just finished making a plywood door for a game cabinet The original
>
> > door had been made of particle board, but the 3/8" lip on both ends
>
> > had begun to disintegrat over the years.
>
> >
>
> > Since the disadvantage in using plywood is that it tends to warp, is
>
> > there a good way to seal it to prevent this before I prime and
>
> > paint?
>
> -------------------------------------------------------
>
> Swing already put this to bed.
>
>
>
> Dewaxed shellac.
I'm not going for a clear finish. The door has to be primed and painted black after I seal it.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 3:52:42 PM UTC-5, Mike Marlow wrote:
> [email protected] wrote:
>
> > On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 3:36:58 PM UTC-5, Lew Hodgett wrote:
>
> >> ""Searcher7" wrote:
>
> >>
>
> >>
>
> >>
>
> >>> I just finished making a plywood door for a game cabinet The
>
> >>> original
>
> >>
>
> >>> door had been made of particle board, but the 3/8" lip on both ends
>
> >>
>
> >>> had begun to disintegrat over the years.
>
> >>
>
> >>>
>
> >>
>
> >>> Since the disadvantage in using plywood is that it tends to warp, is
>
> >>
>
> >>> there a good way to seal it to prevent this before I prime and
>
> >>
>
> >>> paint?
>
> >>
>
> >> -------------------------------------------------------
>
> >>
>
> >> Swing already put this to bed.
>
> >>
>
> >>
>
> >>
>
> >> Dewaxed shellac.
>
> >
>
> > I'm not going for a clear finish. The door has to be primed and
>
> > painted black after I seal it.
>
> >
>
>
>
> Your primer and paint will seal it Darren.
Thanks a lot.
So I'm assuming using the Thompson's WaterSeal beforehand wouldn't be needed.
Now my biggest issue is how to get the barcode sticker off it so I can get started.
Thanks again.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
On Dec 5, 5:36=A0pm, chaniarts <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 12/5/2012 2:34 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > On 12/5/12 3:04 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> >>>>> Dewaxed shellac.
>
> >>>> I'm not going for a clear finish. The door has to be primed and
>
> >>>> painted black after I seal it.
>
> >>> Your primer and paint will seal it Darren.
>
> >> Thanks a lot.
>
> >> So I'm assuming using the Thompson's WaterSeal beforehand wouldn't be
> >> needed.
>
> > I may be wrong but I don't think that stuff was ever meant to be painte=
d
> > over.
> > IIRC, it's some kind of penetrating oil that *doesn't* dissolve or
> > evaporate. =A0*That's* how it keeps water out.
> > For your interior paint application, that is probably the worst thing
> > you could use.
>
> the msds for thompson's waterseal is pretty short. mostly some light
> hydrocarbons (which will evaporate pretty quickly) with a little wax
> thrown in.
>
> http://www.tompkins-co.org/msds/m2805.pdf
>
> % by WT CAS No. INGREDIENT UNITS VAPOR PRESSURE
> 7 64742-88-7 Mineral Spirits
> 29 64742-48-9 Hydrotreated Heavy Petroleum Naphtha
> 29 64742-47-8 Light Aliphatic Hydrocarbon
> 16 8012-95-1 Paraffin Oil
> 2 25550-14-5 Ethyltoluene
> 0.1 91-20-3 Naphthalene
>
> i don't think you want to paint over this.
Most are solvents that will dry off in short enough order.
The paraffin oil, though, is the same as mineral / baby
oil, which will prevent adhesion of any finish save shellac.
On Friday, December 7, 2012 12:29:26 PM UTC-5, Jim Weisgram wrote:
> On Tue, 4 Dec 2012 15:58:20 -0800 (PST), Searcher7
>
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
> >I just finished making a plywood door for a game cabinet The original
>
> >door had been made of particle board, but the 3/8" lip on both ends
>
> >had begun to disintegrat over the years.
>
> >
>
> >Since the disadvantage in using plywood is that it tends to warp, is
>
> >there a good way to seal it to prevent this before I prime and paint?
>
> >
>
> >I have something called Thompson's WaterSeal, but don't know if I
>
> >should use that before I prime with an Enamel Undercoater Primer/
>
> >Sealer (by BEHR) I have.
>
> >
>
> >Any recommendations?
>
> >
>
> >Thanks.
>
> >
>
> >Darren Harris
>
> >Staten Island, New York.
>
>
>
> To fill in some blanks in the discussion, I'll add that shellac makes
>
> an excellent barrier to water vapor. In other words, it can slow but
>
> not prevent warping due to humidity changes.
>
>
>
> There are no guarantees on that no matter what you do. One thing that
>
> helps is using better plywood but these days it can be hard to tell
>
> just what you are getting. I am pretty sure the better plywood won't
>
> be found at Home Depot or Lowes.
Ok, so let me get this straight.
Thompson's WaterSeal is a waste of money. Zinsser Bullseye SealCoat works well. And no one here has tried BEHR Enamel Undercoater Primer/Sealer #75.
Thanks for all the ideas on removing the bar-code sticker. I actually wet a cloth and laid it on the sticker for a couple minutes and it scratched off easily after that. :-)
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
On Wed, 5 Dec 2012 13:04:26 -0800 (PST), [email protected]
wrote:
>On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 3:52:42 PM UTC-5, Mike Marlow wrote:
>> [email protected] wrote:
>>
>> > On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 3:36:58 PM UTC-5, Lew Hodgett wrote:
>>
>> >> ""Searcher7" wrote:
>>
>> >>
>>
>> >>
>>
>> >>
>>
>> >>> I just finished making a plywood door for a game cabinet The
>>
>> >>> original
>>
>> >>
>>
>> >>> door had been made of particle board, but the 3/8" lip on both ends
>>
>> >>
>>
>> >>> had begun to disintegrat over the years.
>>
>> >>
>>
>> >>>
>>
>> >>
>>
>> >>> Since the disadvantage in using plywood is that it tends to warp, is
>>
>> >>
>>
>> >>> there a good way to seal it to prevent this before I prime and
>>
>> >>
>>
>> >>> paint?
>>
>> >>
>>
>> >> -------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> >>
>>
>> >> Swing already put this to bed.
>>
>> >>
>>
>> >>
>>
>> >>
>>
>> >> Dewaxed shellac.
>>
>> >
>>
>> > I'm not going for a clear finish. The door has to be primed and
>>
>> > painted black after I seal it.
>>
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>> Your primer and paint will seal it Darren.
>
>Thanks a lot.
>
>So I'm assuming using the Thompson's WaterSeal beforehand wouldn't be needed.
Do *NOT* use Thompson's WaterSeal. It contains paraffin and could
easily prevent the paint from sticking. In fact, don't use Thompson's
on anything. It's a waste of time.
>Now my biggest issue is how to get the barcode sticker off it so I can get started.
Naptha or one of the goo-gone sorts of products.
On 12/4/12 5:58 PM, Searcher7 wrote:
> I just finished making a plywood door for a game cabinet The original
> door had been made of particle board, but the 3/8" lip on both ends
> had begun to disintegrat over the years.
>
> Since the disadvantage in using plywood is that it tends to warp, is
> there a good way to seal it to prevent this before I prime and paint?
>
> I have something called Thompson's WaterSeal, but don't know if I
> should use that before I prime with an Enamel Undercoater Primer/
> Sealer (by BEHR) I have.
>
> Any recommendations?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Darren Harris
> Staten Island, New York.
>
B-I-N® SHELLAC-BASE PRIMER
http://www.rustoleum.com/cbgproduct.asp?pid=216
Leon or Karl or somebody turned me onto this stuff and it is just tits
in a can.
Nothing better for sealing up anything, including edges on mdf.
Dries really fast and sands wonderfully.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
"Searcher7" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:f47a648f-ff46-4b6f-85ea-8abf4d893d15@c16g2000yqi.googlegroups.com...
>I just finished making a plywood door for a game cabinet The original
> door had been made of particle board, but the 3/8" lip on both ends
> had begun to disintegrat over the years.
>
> Since the disadvantage in using plywood is that it tends to warp, is
> there a good way to seal it to prevent this before I prime and paint?
>
> I have something called Thompson's WaterSeal, but don't know if I
> should use that before I prime with an Enamel Undercoater Primer/
> Sealer (by BEHR) I have.
>
> Any recommendations?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Darren Harris
> Staten Island, New York.
Whatever you end up doing be sure to do the same thing to
both sides of the ply.
Art
[email protected] wrote:
> On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 3:36:58 PM UTC-5, Lew Hodgett wrote:
>> ""Searcher7" wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>> I just finished making a plywood door for a game cabinet The
>>> original
>>
>>> door had been made of particle board, but the 3/8" lip on both ends
>>
>>> had begun to disintegrat over the years.
>>
>>>
>>
>>> Since the disadvantage in using plywood is that it tends to warp, is
>>
>>> there a good way to seal it to prevent this before I prime and
>>
>>> paint?
>>
>> -------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> Swing already put this to bed.
>>
>>
>>
>> Dewaxed shellac.
>
> I'm not going for a clear finish. The door has to be primed and
> painted black after I seal it.
>
Your primer and paint will seal it Darren.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On 12/5/12 3:04 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>> Dewaxed shellac.
>>
>>>
>>
>>> I'm not going for a clear finish. The door has to be primed and
>>
>>> painted black after I seal it.
>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Your primer and paint will seal it Darren.
>
> Thanks a lot.
>
> So I'm assuming using the Thompson's WaterSeal beforehand wouldn't be needed.
>
I may be wrong but I don't think that stuff was ever meant to be painted
over.
IIRC, it's some kind of penetrating oil that *doesn't* dissolve or
evaporate. *That's* how it keeps water out.
For your interior paint application, that is probably the worst thing
you could use.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 12/5/2012 2:34 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 12/5/12 3:04 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>> Dewaxed shellac.
>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>> I'm not going for a clear finish. The door has to be primed and
>>>
>>>> painted black after I seal it.
>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Your primer and paint will seal it Darren.
>>
>> Thanks a lot.
>>
>> So I'm assuming using the Thompson's WaterSeal beforehand wouldn't be
>> needed.
>>
>
> I may be wrong but I don't think that stuff was ever meant to be painted
> over.
> IIRC, it's some kind of penetrating oil that *doesn't* dissolve or
> evaporate. *That's* how it keeps water out.
> For your interior paint application, that is probably the worst thing
> you could use.
>
>
the msds for thompson's waterseal is pretty short. mostly some light
hydrocarbons (which will evaporate pretty quickly) with a little wax
thrown in.
http://www.tompkins-co.org/msds/m2805.pdf
% by WT CAS No. INGREDIENT UNITS VAPOR PRESSURE
7 64742-88-7 Mineral Spirits
29 64742-48-9 Hydrotreated Heavy Petroleum Naphtha
29 64742-47-8 Light Aliphatic Hydrocarbon
16 8012-95-1 Paraffin Oil
2 25550-14-5 Ethyltoluene
0.1 91-20-3 Naphthalene
i don't think you want to paint over this.
[email protected] wrote:
>
> Now my biggest issue is how to get the barcode sticker off it so I
> can get started.
>
Scrape it off as best as you can with a fingernail and then use cigarette
lighter fluid to remove any remaining adheasive.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On 12/5/12 4:19 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> I just wish the glue in the Home Depot plywood was as strong as the glue used on the barcode sticker.
>
Yep. Pet peeve of mine, as well.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 12/5/12 4:36 PM, chaniarts wrote:
> On 12/5/2012 2:34 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 12/5/12 3:04 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>>> Dewaxed shellac.
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> I'm not going for a clear finish. The door has to be primed and
>>>>
>>>>> painted black after I seal it.
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Your primer and paint will seal it Darren.
>>>
>>> Thanks a lot.
>>>
>>> So I'm assuming using the Thompson's WaterSeal beforehand wouldn't be
>>> needed.
>>>
>>
>> I may be wrong but I don't think that stuff was ever meant to be painted
>> over.
>> IIRC, it's some kind of penetrating oil that *doesn't* dissolve or
>> evaporate. *That's* how it keeps water out.
>> For your interior paint application, that is probably the worst thing
>> you could use.
>>
>>
>
> the msds for thompson's waterseal is pretty short. mostly some light
> hydrocarbons (which will evaporate pretty quickly) with a little wax
> thrown in.
>
> http://www.tompkins-co.org/msds/m2805.pdf
>
> % by WT CAS No. INGREDIENT UNITS VAPOR PRESSURE
> 7 64742-88-7 Mineral Spirits
> 29 64742-48-9 Hydrotreated Heavy Petroleum Naphtha
> 29 64742-47-8 Light Aliphatic Hydrocarbon
> 16 8012-95-1 Paraffin Oil
> 2 25550-14-5 Ethyltoluene
> 0.1 91-20-3 Naphthalene
>
> i don't think you want to paint over this.
>
which is my only point.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
[email protected] wrote:
> On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 4:34:16 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 12/5/12 3:04 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>
>>>>>> Dewaxed shellac.
>>
>>>>
>>
>>>>>
>>
>>>>
>>
>>>>> I'm not going for a clear finish. The door has to be primed and
>>
>>>>
>>
>>>>> painted black after I seal it.
>>
>>>>
>>
>>>>>
>>
>>>>
>>
>>>>
>>
>>>>
>>
>>>> Your primer and paint will seal it Darren.
>>
>>>
>>
>>> Thanks a lot.
>>
>>>
>>
>>> So I'm assuming using the Thompson's WaterSeal beforehand wouldn't
>>> be needed.
>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> I may be wrong but I don't think that stuff was ever meant to be
>> painted
>>
>> over.
>>
>> IIRC, it's some kind of penetrating oil that *doesn't* dissolve or
>>
>> evaporate. *That's* how it keeps water out.
>>
>> For your interior paint application, that is probably the worst thing
>>
>> you could use.
>
> Then I'll stick with just the primer/sealer. I just wish the glue in
> the Home Depot plywood was as strong as the glue used on the barcode
> sticker.
>
> I'm trying not to break through the veneer taking it off with a
> chisel because I'm not sure that "Goof Off" will soak into the wood
> and effect the primer's performance when I apply it afterwards.
Try naptha (lighter fluid). If the paper on the sticker is slick, sand off
the slick then use naptha.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
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<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Now my biggest issue is how to get the barcode sticker off it so I can get started.
>
> Thanks again.
>
> Darren Harris
> Staten Island, New York.
Heat it with a heat gun and it will easily peel off with a fingernail.
Scrape what adhesive you can and get the remaining off with
acetone or de-solv-it.
Art
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> writes:
>
>Lew Hodgett wrote:
>
>> You wanted a sealer which is what dewaxed shellac does and it also
>>
>> serves as a primer for the raw materials.
>------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>"Searcher7" wrote:
>
>I'm assuming you are saying that the sealer/primer I already have is
>not good enough, correct? And that Zinsser Bullseye® SealCoat can be
>painted over?
>----------------------------------------------------------
>You asked for a sealer for the plywood recommendation.
>
>That's what you got.
>
>Never worked with the stuff you have so can't comment about
>it's quality.
>
>Zinsser Bullseye® SealCoatis designed as a sealer
>that you can paint over.
Zinsser Bullseye SealCoat is 100% was-free shellac in denatured alcohol.
http://rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=246
scott
On Wed, 05 Dec 2012 15:36:46 -0700, chaniarts
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On 12/5/2012 2:34 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 12/5/12 3:04 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>>> Dewaxed shellac.
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> I'm not going for a clear finish. The door has to be primed and
>>>>
>>>>> painted black after I seal it.
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Your primer and paint will seal it Darren.
>>>
>>> Thanks a lot.
>>>
>>> So I'm assuming using the Thompson's WaterSeal beforehand wouldn't be
>>> needed.
>>>
>>
>> I may be wrong but I don't think that stuff was ever meant to be painted
>> over.
>> IIRC, it's some kind of penetrating oil that *doesn't* dissolve or
>> evaporate. *That's* how it keeps water out.
>> For your interior paint application, that is probably the worst thing
>> you could use.
>>
>>
>
>the msds for thompson's waterseal is pretty short. mostly some light
>hydrocarbons (which will evaporate pretty quickly) with a little wax
>thrown in.
>
>http://www.tompkins-co.org/msds/m2805.pdf
>
>% by WT CAS No. INGREDIENT UNITS VAPOR PRESSURE
>7 64742-88-7 Mineral Spirits
>29 64742-48-9 Hydrotreated Heavy Petroleum Naphtha
>29 64742-47-8 Light Aliphatic Hydrocarbon
>16 8012-95-1 Paraffin Oil
>2 25550-14-5 Ethyltoluene
>0.1 91-20-3 Naphthalene
>
>i don't think you want to paint over this.
I used it once and it was a waste of money. It might hold up in
Arizona but it's worthless in the NW.
Mike M
On Tue, 4 Dec 2012 15:58:20 -0800 (PST), Searcher7
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I just finished making a plywood door for a game cabinet The original
>door had been made of particle board, but the 3/8" lip on both ends
>had begun to disintegrat over the years.
>
>Since the disadvantage in using plywood is that it tends to warp, is
>there a good way to seal it to prevent this before I prime and paint?
>
>I have something called Thompson's WaterSeal, but don't know if I
>should use that before I prime with an Enamel Undercoater Primer/
>Sealer (by BEHR) I have.
>
>Any recommendations?
>
>Thanks.
>
>Darren Harris
>Staten Island, New York.
To fill in some blanks in the discussion, I'll add that shellac makes
an excellent barrier to water vapor. In other words, it can slow but
not prevent warping due to humidity changes.
There are no guarantees on that no matter what you do. One thing that
helps is using better plywood but these days it can be hard to tell
just what you are getting. I am pretty sure the better plywood won't
be found at Home Depot or Lowes.
Snip
I'm trying not to break through the veneer taking it off with a chisel
because I'm not sure that "Goof Off" will soak into the wood and effect the
primer's performance when I apply it afterwards.
Thanks.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
Warm it slightly with a hair dryer and it will peel off easy. Then clean the
remaining sticky off with lacquer thinner. WW