Or maybe inside the box too.
So I was watching ASK TOH and the guys were visiting Hawaii. Tommy
visited a box maker and learned a new way to apply a finish. Looks
promising for us that live in the heat and humid south.
The box maker was apply drops of Polyurethane "glue", Gorilla brand, and
wiping the glue all over the surface with a rag.
After it cured it was sanded with 1200 grit paper and waxed.
So, it is polyurethane, nothing new there, but cures in the presence of
moisture. I wonder if the rag was wet.
In the Houston area poly varnish can take longer than 24 hours to dry
between coats when the temps are up and the humidity is high.
I know that pen turners use super glue for a finish buttttt.....
Has any one else tried this?
On 6/6/2017 6:37 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 6/6/2017 1:18 PM, Sonny wrote:
>> On Tuesday, June 6, 2017 at 12:55:31 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
>>
>>> Has any one else tried this?
>>
>> I would never have thought to use any adhesive as a finish.
>>
>> I suppose this technique is best for small projects (only?).
>>
>> Sonny
>>
>
>
> Well here you go!
>
> https://www.thisoldhouse.com/watch/ask-toh-hawaii-makes-50
Scroll down to the video...
On Wed, 07 Jun 2017 18:20:46 -0400, [email protected] wrote:
>On 07 Jun 2017 21:20:03 GMT, Puckdropper
><puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>
>>Jack <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>>
>>>
>>> Glue is designed to glue, finish to finish. Switching them around
>>> never sounded good to me. If it was a good idea, glue makers or finish
>>> makers would perfect it and sell it as a finish with known results.
>>> They probably already have.
>>>
>>
>>At the same time, there are products out there that work well completely
>>outside of the intended use. Sparkfun Electronics has a post about a $30
>>electric skillet they use for prototyping SMD PC boards. I've tried the
>>method--heat gun on the back of the board and it works, but I have yet to
>>try the electric skillet.
>
>Don't try mounting SMD LEDs that way or you'll turn them into
>Dark-Emitting Axial Diodes. Inductors are a problem, too.
>
>>Can't imagine the manufacturer even acknowledging that possibility exists.
>
>In today's litigious society and with CA Prop <whatever>, I suspect
>you're right.
Back in the day when I prototyped pc boards I had a hot plate, with a
good temp control setup, preheating the board is critical to dry out
the flux in the solder paste. Would then use a hot air unit to melt
the solder, it is impossible to do this on a whole board with out the
preheat to stick things down.
An electric skillet would be good to preheat, but using it to melt the
solder paste would be a waste of components and likely the pc board.
The leads would tend to delaminate caused by the epoxy sticking them
down would fail.
I can't imagine that being a satisfactory long term solution to finishing. =
No abrasion resistance, no UV (or even light) resistance, no idea of what =
the long term effects of full exposure to the elements will do the finish. =
Open to the air instead of hidden in a joint, will it get hard, then britt=
le? Will it yellow or muddy?
If I was going to do that I would wipe some lacquer from a dauber or use a =
polyurethane conversion product.
I used super glue as a pen finish for a while, but found it unsatisfactory.=
Plenty of other home brews out there that worked better.
Robert
On Tue, 6 Jun 2017 12:55:19 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>Or maybe inside the box too.
>
>So I was watching ASK TOH and the guys were visiting Hawaii. Tommy
>visited a box maker and learned a new way to apply a finish. Looks
>promising for us that live in the heat and humid south.
>
>The box maker was apply drops of Polyurethane "glue", Gorilla brand, and
>wiping the glue all over the surface with a rag.
>
>After it cured it was sanded with 1200 grit paper and waxed.
>
>So, it is polyurethane, nothing new there, but cures in the presence of
>moisture. I wonder if the rag was wet.
>
>In the Houston area poly varnish can take longer than 24 hours to dry
>between coats when the temps are up and the humidity is high.
>
>I know that pen turners use super glue for a finish buttttt.....
>
>Has any one else tried this?
I also saw that episode and was thinking about it while I sanding a
small cup I had turned. I am new at turning and didn't like much about
the cup and decided to give Gorilla glue a try.
I used a nitril glove and a small piece of cotton t-shirt. Squeezed a
few drops on the wood and immediate began to work it in circles. The
glue wanted to dry so it difficult to work -rub in.
I did this while it was still on the lathe and I hadn't finished the
bottom and it doesn't look bad at all. I will probably try to finish
the bottom and keep it. The piece was dry in 10 minutes or so. Note
that I am AL but it was not very humid today and my shop as AC.
It added a nice color to the cherry piece and I will post a picture if
I can remember how.
Jim
Two images have been added to the a.b.p.w
On Thu, 08 Jun 2017 20:39:15 -0500, swalker <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Tue, 6 Jun 2017 12:55:19 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>
>>Or maybe inside the box too.
>>
>>So I was watching ASK TOH and the guys were visiting Hawaii. Tommy
>>visited a box maker and learned a new way to apply a finish. Looks
>>promising for us that live in the heat and humid south.
>>
>>The box maker was apply drops of Polyurethane "glue", Gorilla brand, and
>>wiping the glue all over the surface with a rag.
>>
>>After it cured it was sanded with 1200 grit paper and waxed.
>>
>>So, it is polyurethane, nothing new there, but cures in the presence of
>>moisture. I wonder if the rag was wet.
>>
>>In the Houston area poly varnish can take longer than 24 hours to dry
>>between coats when the temps are up and the humidity is high.
>>
>>I know that pen turners use super glue for a finish buttttt.....
>>
>>Has any one else tried this?
>
>I also saw that episode and was thinking about it while I sanding a
>small cup I had turned. I am new at turning and didn't like much about
>the cup and decided to give Gorilla glue a try.
>
>I used a nitril glove and a small piece of cotton t-shirt. Squeezed a
>few drops on the wood and immediate began to work it in circles. The
>glue wanted to dry so it difficult to work -rub in.
>
>I did this while it was still on the lathe and I hadn't finished the
>bottom and it doesn't look bad at all. I will probably try to finish
>the bottom and keep it. The piece was dry in 10 minutes or so. Note
>that I am AL but it was not very humid today and my shop as AC.
>
>It added a nice color to the cherry piece and I will post a picture if
>I can remember how.
>
>Jim
Jack <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
> Glue is designed to glue, finish to finish. Switching them around
> never sounded good to me. If it was a good idea, glue makers or finish
> makers would perfect it and sell it as a finish with known results.
> They probably already have.
>
At the same time, there are products out there that work well completely
outside of the intended use. Sparkfun Electronics has a post about a $30
electric skillet they use for prototyping SMD PC boards. I've tried the
method--heat gun on the back of the board and it works, but I have yet to
try the electric skillet.
Can't imagine the manufacturer even acknowledging that possibility exists.
Puckdropper
--
http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/rec.woodworking
A mini archive of some of rec.woodworking's best and worst!
[email protected] wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On 07 Jun 2017 21:20:03 GMT, Puckdropper
> <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>>
>>At the same time, there are products out there that work well
>>completely outside of the intended use. Sparkfun Electronics has a
>>post about a $30 electric skillet they use for prototyping SMD PC
>>boards. I've tried the method--heat gun on the back of the board and
>>it works, but I have yet to try the electric skillet.
>
> Don't try mounting SMD LEDs that way or you'll turn them into
> Dark-Emitting Axial Diodes. Inductors are a problem, too.
Well, I just tried it. Yes, I know--but sometimes you gotta pee on the
electric fence for yourself. No LED worked at all. I didn't bother
metering the resistors, I probably should have.
I'll cut another board and give things a try again. It sounds like you
and Markem have some experience, any suggestions? Will drying the LEDs
somehow help?
FWIW, I'm cutting the traces with a CNC mill, so my traces are a good
.030" taller than the rest of the board.
*snip*
Puckdropper
--
http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/rec.woodworking
A mini archive of some of rec.woodworking's best and worst!
[email protected] wrote in news:[email protected]:
> On 11 Jun 2017 17:54:14 GMT, Puckdropper
> <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>>Well, I just tried it. Yes, I know--but sometimes you gotta pee on the
>>electric fence for yourself. No LED worked at all. I didn't bother
>>metering the resistors, I probably should have.
>
> Resistors will take quite a lot of punishment but it might be
> worthwhile checking them too. Any silicon devices will be far more
> sensitive than the resistors. You might check connections, too (to
> see if the soldering worked at all).
Argh... My test bed failed. I've got a useful little thing that's a 9V
battery holder with a 1k resistor soldered to it. Unfortunately, the
crimp failed and was inconsistently passing power.
I only had 6 poorly soldered LEDs out of 24, and after fixing them they
all light!
Moral of the story (and why I'm posting):
Occasionally verify your test equipment works properly!
*trim*
Puckdropper
--
http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/rec.woodworking
A mini archive of some of rec.woodworking's best and worst!
On Fri, 9 Jun 2017 09:41:24 -0400, Jack <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 6/8/2017 9:39 PM, swalker wrote:
>> On Tue, 6 Jun 2017 12:55:19 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>>
>>> Or maybe inside the box too.
>>>
>>> So I was watching ASK TOH and the guys were visiting Hawaii. Tommy
>>> visited a box maker and learned a new way to apply a finish. Looks
>>> promising for us that live in the heat and humid south.
>>>
>>> The box maker was apply drops of Polyurethane "glue", Gorilla brand, and
>>> wiping the glue all over the surface with a rag.
>>>
>>> After it cured it was sanded with 1200 grit paper and waxed.
>>>
>>> So, it is polyurethane, nothing new there, but cures in the presence of
>>> moisture. I wonder if the rag was wet.
>>>
>>> In the Houston area poly varnish can take longer than 24 hours to dry
>>> between coats when the temps are up and the humidity is high.
>>>
>>> I know that pen turners use super glue for a finish buttttt.....
>>>
>>> Has any one else tried this?
>>
>> I also saw that episode and was thinking about it while I sanding a
>> small cup I had turned. I am new at turning and didn't like much about
>> the cup and decided to give Gorilla glue a try.
>>
>> I used a nitril glove and a small piece of cotton t-shirt. Squeezed a
>> few drops on the wood and immediate began to work it in circles. The
>> glue wanted to dry so it difficult to work -rub in.
>>
>> I did this while it was still on the lathe and I hadn't finished the
>> bottom and it doesn't look bad at all. I will probably try to finish
>> the bottom and keep it. The piece was dry in 10 minutes or so. Note
>> that I am AL but it was not very humid today and my shop as AC.
>>
>> It added a nice color to the cherry piece and I will post a picture if
>> I can remember how.
>>
>> Jim
>>
>Next time try the same thing with Shellac, a product made to finish
>wood, not glue wood. A bunch of other products around made to finish
>wood as well. My advice is unless you have a really special reason to
>use a non-finish as a finish, don't do it.
I would not consider using glue all the time. I don't think it at all
suitable for utility type turnings. I doubt the wax coating would hold
up and have no clue as to what might react badly with the glue.
I did this more out of curiosity than anything else.
On 07 Jun 2017 21:20:03 GMT, Puckdropper
<puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>Jack <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
>>
>> Glue is designed to glue, finish to finish. Switching them around
>> never sounded good to me. If it was a good idea, glue makers or finish
>> makers would perfect it and sell it as a finish with known results.
>> They probably already have.
>>
>
>At the same time, there are products out there that work well completely
>outside of the intended use. Sparkfun Electronics has a post about a $30
>electric skillet they use for prototyping SMD PC boards. I've tried the
>method--heat gun on the back of the board and it works, but I have yet to
>try the electric skillet.
Don't try mounting SMD LEDs that way or you'll turn them into
Dark-Emitting Axial Diodes. Inductors are a problem, too.
>Can't imagine the manufacturer even acknowledging that possibility exists.
In today's litigious society and with CA Prop <whatever>, I suspect
you're right.
Sonny <[email protected]> writes:
>On Tuesday, June 6, 2017 at 12:55:31 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
>
>> Has any one else tried this?
>
>I would never have thought to use any adhesive as a finish.
Historically, glue-size has been used as a finish (artists), or as
a stain conditioner. White glue diluted 10:1.
On 6/6/2017 1:18 PM, Sonny wrote:
> On Tuesday, June 6, 2017 at 12:55:31 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
>
>> Has any one else tried this?
>
> I would never have thought to use any adhesive as a finish.
>
> I suppose this technique is best for small projects (only?).
>
> Sonny
>
Well here you go!
https://www.thisoldhouse.com/watch/ask-toh-hawaii-makes-50
On 6/6/2017 1:18 PM, Sonny wrote:
> On Tuesday, June 6, 2017 at 12:55:31 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
>
>> Has any one else tried this?
>
> I would never have thought to use any adhesive as a finish.
>
> I suppose this technique is best for small projects (only?).
>
> Sonny
>
The box builder was applying only to small boxes but I don't see why it
could not be done on larger pieces. For a piece approximately 4" x 36"
he applied maybe a dozen or so drips, IIRC. It seemed to spread quite a
bit and or go a long way.
I am going to have to try this out.
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
says...
>
> On Fri, 9 Jun 2017 08:13:13 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>
> >On 6/8/2017 8:39 PM, swalker wrote:
> >> On Tue, 6 Jun 2017 12:55:19 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
> >>
> >>> Or maybe inside the box too.
> >>>
> >>> So I was watching ASK TOH and the guys were visiting Hawaii. Tommy
> >>> visited a box maker and learned a new way to apply a finish. Looks
> >>> promising for us that live in the heat and humid south.
> >>>
> >>> The box maker was apply drops of Polyurethane "glue", Gorilla brand, and
> >>> wiping the glue all over the surface with a rag.
> >>>
> >>> After it cured it was sanded with 1200 grit paper and waxed.
> >>>
> >>> So, it is polyurethane, nothing new there, but cures in the presence of
> >>> moisture. I wonder if the rag was wet.
> >>>
> >>> In the Houston area poly varnish can take longer than 24 hours to dry
> >>> between coats when the temps are up and the humidity is high.
> >>>
> >>> I know that pen turners use super glue for a finish buttttt.....
> >>>
> >>> Has any one else tried this?
> >>
> >> I also saw that episode and was thinking about it while I sanding a
> >> small cup I had turned. I am new at turning and didn't like much about
> >> the cup and decided to give Gorilla glue a try.
> >>
> >> I used a nitril glove and a small piece of cotton t-shirt. Squeezed a
> >> few drops on the wood and immediate began to work it in circles. The
> >> glue wanted to dry so it difficult to work -rub in.
> >>
> >> I did this while it was still on the lathe and I hadn't finished the
> >> bottom and it doesn't look bad at all. I will probably try to finish
> >> the bottom and keep it. The piece was dry in 10 minutes or so. Note
> >> that I am AL but it was not very humid today and my shop as AC.
> >>
> >> It added a nice color to the cherry piece and I will post a picture if
> >> I can remember how.
> >>
> >> Jim
> >>
> >
> >Pretty cool. Did yu also use the 1200 grit paper and apply a coat of wax?
>
> I haven't been able to find a 1200 grit paper locally so must wait for
> a trip near a big box store or a good hardware store. In the meanwhile
> I will finish the bottom.
Auto parts store.
On 6/7/2017 9:11 AM, Jack wrote:
> On 6/6/2017 11:17 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>> I can't imagine that being a satisfactory long term solution to
>> finishing. No abrasion resistance, no UV (or even light) resistance,
>> no idea of what the long term effects of full exposure to the elements
>> will do the finish. Open to the air instead of hidden in a joint,
>> will it get hard, then brittle? Will it yellow or muddy?
>>
>> If I was going to do that I would wipe some lacquer from a dauber or
>> use a polyurethane conversion product.
>>
>> I used super glue as a pen finish for a while, but found it
>> unsatisfactory. Plenty of other home brews out there that worked better.
>
> Glue is designed to glue, finish to finish. Switching them around never
> sounded good to me. If it was a good idea, glue makers or finish makers
> would perfect it and sell it as a finish with known results. They
> probably already have.
>
I think it all has to do with potential sales. 3M makes or used to make
a product commonly referred to as Old Yeller. It was a weatherstrip
adhesive but used more often as a gasket sealant on engines. 3M made a
gasket adhesive but mechanics used the less expensive Old Yeller.
Another good example, TopKote. Originally manufactured by Empire and
sold as a metal surface lubricant. Bostitch bought the product and sold
it for many years with the same name but it was intended to be used as a
rust preventative. The original was a great rust preventative too.
On 6/8/2017 8:39 PM, swalker wrote:
> On Tue, 6 Jun 2017 12:55:19 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>
>> Or maybe inside the box too.
>>
>> So I was watching ASK TOH and the guys were visiting Hawaii. Tommy
>> visited a box maker and learned a new way to apply a finish. Looks
>> promising for us that live in the heat and humid south.
>>
>> The box maker was apply drops of Polyurethane "glue", Gorilla brand, and
>> wiping the glue all over the surface with a rag.
>>
>> After it cured it was sanded with 1200 grit paper and waxed.
>>
>> So, it is polyurethane, nothing new there, but cures in the presence of
>> moisture. I wonder if the rag was wet.
>>
>> In the Houston area poly varnish can take longer than 24 hours to dry
>> between coats when the temps are up and the humidity is high.
>>
>> I know that pen turners use super glue for a finish buttttt.....
>>
>> Has any one else tried this?
>
> I also saw that episode and was thinking about it while I sanding a
> small cup I had turned. I am new at turning and didn't like much about
> the cup and decided to give Gorilla glue a try.
>
> I used a nitril glove and a small piece of cotton t-shirt. Squeezed a
> few drops on the wood and immediate began to work it in circles. The
> glue wanted to dry so it difficult to work -rub in.
>
> I did this while it was still on the lathe and I hadn't finished the
> bottom and it doesn't look bad at all. I will probably try to finish
> the bottom and keep it. The piece was dry in 10 minutes or so. Note
> that I am AL but it was not very humid today and my shop as AC.
>
> It added a nice color to the cherry piece and I will post a picture if
> I can remember how.
>
> Jim
>
Pretty cool. Did yu also use the 1200 grit paper and apply a coat of wax?
On Fri, 9 Jun 2017 09:41:24 -0400, Jack <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 6/8/2017 9:39 PM, swalker wrote:
>> On Tue, 6 Jun 2017 12:55:19 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>>
>>> Or maybe inside the box too.
>>>
>>> So I was watching ASK TOH and the guys were visiting Hawaii. Tommy
>>> visited a box maker and learned a new way to apply a finish. Looks
>>> promising for us that live in the heat and humid south.
>>>
>>> The box maker was apply drops of Polyurethane "glue", Gorilla brand, and
>>> wiping the glue all over the surface with a rag.
>>>
>>> After it cured it was sanded with 1200 grit paper and waxed.
>>>
>>> So, it is polyurethane, nothing new there, but cures in the presence of
>>> moisture. I wonder if the rag was wet.
>>>
>>> In the Houston area poly varnish can take longer than 24 hours to dry
>>> between coats when the temps are up and the humidity is high.
>>>
>>> I know that pen turners use super glue for a finish buttttt.....
>>>
>>> Has any one else tried this?
>>
>> I also saw that episode and was thinking about it while I sanding a
>> small cup I had turned. I am new at turning and didn't like much about
>> the cup and decided to give Gorilla glue a try.
>>
>> I used a nitril glove and a small piece of cotton t-shirt. Squeezed a
>> few drops on the wood and immediate began to work it in circles. The
>> glue wanted to dry so it difficult to work -rub in.
>>
>> I did this while it was still on the lathe and I hadn't finished the
>> bottom and it doesn't look bad at all. I will probably try to finish
>> the bottom and keep it. The piece was dry in 10 minutes or so. Note
>> that I am AL but it was not very humid today and my shop as AC.
>>
>> It added a nice color to the cherry piece and I will post a picture if
>> I can remember how.
>>
>> Jim
>>
>Next time try the same thing with Shellac, a product made to finish
>wood, not glue wood. A bunch of other products around made to finish
>wood as well. My advice is unless you have a really special reason to
>use a non-finish as a finish, don't do it.
I must correct myself on the wood type.
It wasn't cherry but Bradford pear.
On 6/9/2017 9:01 AM, Jack wrote:
> On 6/7/2017 10:24 AM, Leon wrote:
>> On 6/7/2017 9:11 AM, Jack wrote:
>>> On 6/6/2017 11:17 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>> I can't imagine that being a satisfactory long term solution to
>>>> finishing. No abrasion resistance, no UV (or even light) resistance,
>>>> no idea of what the long term effects of full exposure to the
>>>> elements will do the finish. Open to the air instead of hidden in a
>>>> joint, will it get hard, then brittle? Will it yellow or muddy?
>>>>
>>>> If I was going to do that I would wipe some lacquer from a dauber or
>>>> use a polyurethane conversion product.
>>>>
>>>> I used super glue as a pen finish for a while, but found it
>>>> unsatisfactory. Plenty of other home brews out there that worked
>>>> better.
>>>
>>> Glue is designed to glue, finish to finish. Switching them around
>>> never sounded good to me. If it was a good idea, glue makers or finish
>>> makers would perfect it and sell it as a finish with known results.
>>> They probably already have.
>>>
>
>> I think it all has to do with potential sales. 3M makes or used to make
>> a product commonly referred to as Old Yeller. It was a weatherstrip
>> adhesive but used more often as a gasket sealant on engines. 3M made a
>> gasket adhesive but mechanics used the less expensive Old Yeller.
>
> Never saw anyone use old yeller, everyone I knew used Permatex, a
> product designed for the purpose. That was 50 years ago, and I don't
> think anything has changed.
different preferences for different locations. I bought old yeller
about 3 cases at a time.
>
>> Another good example, TopKote. Originally manufactured by Empire and
>> sold as a metal surface lubricant. Bostitch bought the product and sold
>> it for many years with the same name but it was intended to be used as a
>> rust preventative. The original was a great rust preventative too.
>
> I don't know about Empire, but also 40 years ago I used 3M dry lubricant
> before Bostik TopCote existed. It worked exactly as TopCote does today,
> and in fact, the cans look almost identical. I suspect 3-M sold the
> product or patent to whomever makes Topcote now, but it's just a guess.
It was Empire that had TopCote before, I began using it around 1989. It
was in a pump bottle vs. aerosol. TopCote was bought by Bostik and
recently renamed the product as GlideCote
>
> http://jbstein.com/Flick/Lube1.jpg
> http://jbstein.com/Flick/Lube2.jpg
Not exactly the same. Have you used the 3M for your metal wood working
surfaces? TopCote specifically says that it will not be a problem for
finishes.
This is one of Empires most recent products.
https://www.amazon.com/Empire-Manufacturing-Inc-TSS-8D-TopSaver/dp/B0000EI96N
>
> Point is, the product was designed as a lubricant and moisture barrier
> for machine parts, and it works exactly as designed, and required by
> woodworkers on iron table tops. Homemade remedies are not even close to
> as good, just as I suspect glue vs finish would fare.
>
>
Agreed, the home remedies do not hold up as well as the products
specifically made to prevent rust. Granted home remedies probably work
for some people but not all.
On Fri, 09 Jun 2017 14:07:34 -0500, swalker <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Fri, 9 Jun 2017 08:13:13 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>
>>On 6/8/2017 8:39 PM, swalker wrote:
>>> On Tue, 6 Jun 2017 12:55:19 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Or maybe inside the box too.
>>>>
>>>> So I was watching ASK TOH and the guys were visiting Hawaii. Tommy
>>>> visited a box maker and learned a new way to apply a finish. Looks
>>>> promising for us that live in the heat and humid south.
>>>>
>>>> The box maker was apply drops of Polyurethane "glue", Gorilla brand, and
>>>> wiping the glue all over the surface with a rag.
>>>>
>>>> After it cured it was sanded with 1200 grit paper and waxed.
>>>>
>>>> So, it is polyurethane, nothing new there, but cures in the presence of
>>>> moisture. I wonder if the rag was wet.
>>>>
>>>> In the Houston area poly varnish can take longer than 24 hours to dry
>>>> between coats when the temps are up and the humidity is high.
>>>>
>>>> I know that pen turners use super glue for a finish buttttt.....
>>>>
>>>> Has any one else tried this?
>>>
>>> I also saw that episode and was thinking about it while I sanding a
>>> small cup I had turned. I am new at turning and didn't like much about
>>> the cup and decided to give Gorilla glue a try.
>>>
>>> I used a nitril glove and a small piece of cotton t-shirt. Squeezed a
>>> few drops on the wood and immediate began to work it in circles. The
>>> glue wanted to dry so it difficult to work -rub in.
>>>
>>> I did this while it was still on the lathe and I hadn't finished the
>>> bottom and it doesn't look bad at all. I will probably try to finish
>>> the bottom and keep it. The piece was dry in 10 minutes or so. Note
>>> that I am AL but it was not very humid today and my shop as AC.
>>>
>>> It added a nice color to the cherry piece and I will post a picture if
>>> I can remember how.
>>>
>>> Jim
>>>
>>
>>Pretty cool. Did yu also use the 1200 grit paper and apply a coat of wax?
>
>I haven't been able to find a 1200 grit paper locally so must wait for
>a trip near a big box store or a good hardware store. In the meanwhile
>I will finish the bottom.
You might try an auto parts store. The fine grits are often used for
automotive paint prep.
Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
> Or maybe inside the box too.
>
> So I was watching ASK TOH and the guys were visiting Hawaii. Tommy
> visited a box maker and learned a new way to apply a finish. Looks
> promising for us that live in the heat and humid south.
>
> The box maker was apply drops of Polyurethane "glue", Gorilla brand, and
> wiping the glue all over the surface with a rag.
>
> After it cured it was sanded with 1200 grit paper and waxed.
>
> So, it is polyurethane, nothing new there, but cures in the presence of
> moisture. I wonder if the rag was wet.
>
> In the Houston area poly varnish can take longer than 24 hours to dry
> between coats when the temps are up and the humidity is high.
>
> I know that pen turners use super glue for a finish buttttt.....
>
> Has any one else tried this?
No but I'll keep it in mind. Thanks for the OP!
On 6/6/2017 11:17 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> I can't imagine that being a satisfactory long term solution to finishing. No abrasion resistance, no UV (or even light) resistance, no idea of what the long term effects of full exposure to the elements will do the finish. Open to the air instead of hidden in a joint, will it get hard, then brittle? Will it yellow or muddy?
>
> If I was going to do that I would wipe some lacquer from a dauber or use a polyurethane conversion product.
>
> I used super glue as a pen finish for a while, but found it unsatisfactory. Plenty of other home brews out there that worked better.
Glue is designed to glue, finish to finish. Switching them around never
sounded good to me. If it was a good idea, glue makers or finish makers
would perfect it and sell it as a finish with known results. They
probably already have.
--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
http://jbstein.com
On 6/8/2017 9:39 PM, swalker wrote:
> On Tue, 6 Jun 2017 12:55:19 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>
>> Or maybe inside the box too.
>>
>> So I was watching ASK TOH and the guys were visiting Hawaii. Tommy
>> visited a box maker and learned a new way to apply a finish. Looks
>> promising for us that live in the heat and humid south.
>>
>> The box maker was apply drops of Polyurethane "glue", Gorilla brand, and
>> wiping the glue all over the surface with a rag.
>>
>> After it cured it was sanded with 1200 grit paper and waxed.
>>
>> So, it is polyurethane, nothing new there, but cures in the presence of
>> moisture. I wonder if the rag was wet.
>>
>> In the Houston area poly varnish can take longer than 24 hours to dry
>> between coats when the temps are up and the humidity is high.
>>
>> I know that pen turners use super glue for a finish buttttt.....
>>
>> Has any one else tried this?
>
> I also saw that episode and was thinking about it while I sanding a
> small cup I had turned. I am new at turning and didn't like much about
> the cup and decided to give Gorilla glue a try.
>
> I used a nitril glove and a small piece of cotton t-shirt. Squeezed a
> few drops on the wood and immediate began to work it in circles. The
> glue wanted to dry so it difficult to work -rub in.
>
> I did this while it was still on the lathe and I hadn't finished the
> bottom and it doesn't look bad at all. I will probably try to finish
> the bottom and keep it. The piece was dry in 10 minutes or so. Note
> that I am AL but it was not very humid today and my shop as AC.
>
> It added a nice color to the cherry piece and I will post a picture if
> I can remember how.
>
> Jim
>
Next time try the same thing with Shellac, a product made to finish
wood, not glue wood. A bunch of other products around made to finish
wood as well. My advice is unless you have a really special reason to
use a non-finish as a finish, don't do it.
--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
http://jbstein.com
On 6/7/2017 10:24 AM, Leon wrote:
> On 6/7/2017 9:11 AM, Jack wrote:
>> On 6/6/2017 11:17 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>> I can't imagine that being a satisfactory long term solution to
>>> finishing. No abrasion resistance, no UV (or even light) resistance,
>>> no idea of what the long term effects of full exposure to the
>>> elements will do the finish. Open to the air instead of hidden in a
>>> joint, will it get hard, then brittle? Will it yellow or muddy?
>>>
>>> If I was going to do that I would wipe some lacquer from a dauber or
>>> use a polyurethane conversion product.
>>>
>>> I used super glue as a pen finish for a while, but found it
>>> unsatisfactory. Plenty of other home brews out there that worked
>>> better.
>>
>> Glue is designed to glue, finish to finish. Switching them around
>> never sounded good to me. If it was a good idea, glue makers or finish
>> makers would perfect it and sell it as a finish with known results.
>> They probably already have.
>>
> I think it all has to do with potential sales. 3M makes or used to make
> a product commonly referred to as Old Yeller. It was a weatherstrip
> adhesive but used more often as a gasket sealant on engines. 3M made a
> gasket adhesive but mechanics used the less expensive Old Yeller.
Never saw anyone use old yeller, everyone I knew used Permatex, a
product designed for the purpose. That was 50 years ago, and I don't
think anything has changed.
> Another good example, TopKote. Originally manufactured by Empire and
> sold as a metal surface lubricant. Bostitch bought the product and sold
> it for many years with the same name but it was intended to be used as a
> rust preventative. The original was a great rust preventative too.
I don't know about Empire, but also 40 years ago I used 3M dry lubricant
before Bostik TopCote existed. It worked exactly as TopCote does today,
and in fact, the cans look almost identical. I suspect 3-M sold the
product or patent to whomever makes Topcote now, but it's just a guess.
http://jbstein.com/Flick/Lube1.jpg
http://jbstein.com/Flick/Lube2.jpg
Point is, the product was designed as a lubricant and moisture barrier
for machine parts, and it works exactly as designed, and required by
woodworkers on iron table tops. Homemade remedies are not even close to
as good, just as I suspect glue vs finish would fare.
--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
http://jbstein.com
On Fri, 9 Jun 2017 08:13:13 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>On 6/8/2017 8:39 PM, swalker wrote:
>> On Tue, 6 Jun 2017 12:55:19 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>>
>>> Or maybe inside the box too.
>>>
>>> So I was watching ASK TOH and the guys were visiting Hawaii. Tommy
>>> visited a box maker and learned a new way to apply a finish. Looks
>>> promising for us that live in the heat and humid south.
>>>
>>> The box maker was apply drops of Polyurethane "glue", Gorilla brand, and
>>> wiping the glue all over the surface with a rag.
>>>
>>> After it cured it was sanded with 1200 grit paper and waxed.
>>>
>>> So, it is polyurethane, nothing new there, but cures in the presence of
>>> moisture. I wonder if the rag was wet.
>>>
>>> In the Houston area poly varnish can take longer than 24 hours to dry
>>> between coats when the temps are up and the humidity is high.
>>>
>>> I know that pen turners use super glue for a finish buttttt.....
>>>
>>> Has any one else tried this?
>>
>> I also saw that episode and was thinking about it while I sanding a
>> small cup I had turned. I am new at turning and didn't like much about
>> the cup and decided to give Gorilla glue a try.
>>
>> I used a nitril glove and a small piece of cotton t-shirt. Squeezed a
>> few drops on the wood and immediate began to work it in circles. The
>> glue wanted to dry so it difficult to work -rub in.
>>
>> I did this while it was still on the lathe and I hadn't finished the
>> bottom and it doesn't look bad at all. I will probably try to finish
>> the bottom and keep it. The piece was dry in 10 minutes or so. Note
>> that I am AL but it was not very humid today and my shop as AC.
>>
>> It added a nice color to the cherry piece and I will post a picture if
>> I can remember how.
>>
>> Jim
>>
>
>Pretty cool. Did yu also use the 1200 grit paper and apply a coat of wax?
I haven't been able to find a 1200 grit paper locally so must wait for
a trip near a big box store or a good hardware store. In the meanwhile
I will finish the bottom.
On 11 Jun 2017 17:54:14 GMT, Puckdropper
<puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>[email protected] wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>> On 07 Jun 2017 21:20:03 GMT, Puckdropper
>> <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>>>
>>>At the same time, there are products out there that work well
>>>completely outside of the intended use. Sparkfun Electronics has a
>>>post about a $30 electric skillet they use for prototyping SMD PC
>>>boards. I've tried the method--heat gun on the back of the board and
>>>it works, but I have yet to try the electric skillet.
>>
>> Don't try mounting SMD LEDs that way or you'll turn them into
>> Dark-Emitting Axial Diodes. Inductors are a problem, too.
>
>Well, I just tried it. Yes, I know--but sometimes you gotta pee on the
>electric fence for yourself. No LED worked at all. I didn't bother
>metering the resistors, I probably should have.
Resistors will take quite a lot of punishment but it might be
worthwhile checking them too. Any silicon devices will be far more
sensitive than the resistors. You might check connections, too (to
see if the soldering worked at all).
>
>I'll cut another board and give things a try again. It sounds like you
>and Markem have some experience, any suggestions? Will drying the LEDs
>somehow help?
I wouldn't use a skillet. A lot of people have good luck with toaster
ovens. LEDs are a special case, though. The melting point of the
package is close to the solder melting point. The temperature profile
(time vs. temperature) matters a lot. I'd suggest placing and
soldering LEDs by hand.
>
>FWIW, I'm cutting the traces with a CNC mill, so my traces are a good
>.030" taller than the rest of the board.
>
Try buffing the board with a green Scotch Brite pad. It'll knock down
any burrs on the traces and polish it nice and pretty. ;-)