I am trying to decide either to make dadoos with a router or with a table
saw. I know that they make router bits designed to match the true sixe of
plywood.
I have never worked with dadoos before. I have both 1/4 and 1/2 inch
routers, which would be better? Do it in one pass or multiple working down
to the final depth?
If a table saw, what size blade would I get for my 10" table say?
Thanks
Ted
" look for "Leon's dado jig"."
Was "up" on Desoto's site, but not today. Instead, I found the three-
legged sawhorses - worth a look. http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Projects/SawHorse/
Here's one that's simple for smaller stock:
http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip031205wb-closer.html
And a picture of another approach - to get exact width of receiving
stock: http://images.meredith.com/wood/images/a_343_1_3.gif
Hoosierpopi <[email protected]> writes:
>"Veritas Dado Shims"
>, I like Lee Valley's plastic dado shims
>> http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=30063&cat=1,41080,51225...
>
>The threads on my saw's arbor "catch" shims from time to time (I have
>a few mangled shims as a result) and I was wondering if anyone had a
>"fix" other than wrapping a bit of scotch tape around the arbor before
>adding the dado blades and shims.
>
Bore out the shim? It's the thickness that matters, not the fit to
the arbor.
scott
"Ted" wrote:
>I am trying to decide either to make dadoos with a router or with a
>table saw.
It depends; however, a stacked dado on a table saw offers more
flexibility.
Freud will have an 8" stacked dado for use on a 10" table saw for
around $200.
There are others of similar or better quality, I just happen to have
the Freud.
When a stacked dado doesn't do the job, time to look at the router.
Lew
Lew
Hoosierpopi wrote:
> " look for "Leon's dado jig"."
>
> Was "up" on Desoto's site, but not today. Instead, I found the three-
> legged sawhorses - worth a look. http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Projects/SawHorse/
It was there for quite a while, and was deleted (with a /lot/ of other
files) when it seemed appropriate.
There's an explanation at http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Misc.html
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
Leon wrote:
> "Morris Dovey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Hoosierpopi wrote:
>>> " look for "Leon's dado jig"."
>>>
>>> Was "up" on Desoto's site, but not today. Instead, I found the three-
>>> legged sawhorses - worth a look.
>>> http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Projects/SawHorse/
>> It was there for quite a while, and was deleted (with a /lot/ of other
>> files) when it seemed appropriate.
>>
>> There's an explanation at http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Misc.html
>
>
> I hope you considered me a contributor rather than an offender. Either way
> I did and do appreciate your site. Thank you again.
You're welcome. It's difficult not to consider you a contributor since
one of the web pages hit most frequently was that with your photos,
although I think your inventiveness and generosity were seriously
under-appreciated. At this point I'm of the opinion that those who want
to avail themselves of your generosity can ask "please" and say "thank
you" to you directly.
The only thing I found offensive was the attitude that I didn't have the
right to charge for products that the complainers weren't capable of
producing (or even imagining) without my showing the way. 'Nuff said -
end rant.
Pax.
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
"Ted" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> Thanks to everyone for your answers. My first project for this will be
> "cabinets" for a closet organizer system. I think that I will start with a
> router setup due to all the different setups for each pass.
There is one thing to consider when making dados. A router bit is a fixed
size and it's sometimes a pain to have to do repeat cuts to sneak up on the
exact width of dado slot that you need. A dado blade for a table saw
however, can be configured to the exact size needed, so you adjust to what
you want and then you can do many repeat cuts much faster.
The good scenario when using routers is if you have a bit that cuts the
exact size of dado that you need from the get go.
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Ted" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> Thanks to everyone for your answers. My first project for this will
>> be
>> "cabinets" for a closet organizer system. I think that I will start
>> with a
>> router setup due to all the different setups for each pass.
>
> There is one thing to consider when making dados. A router bit is a
> fixed
> size and it's sometimes a pain to have to do repeat cuts to sneak up
> on the
> exact width of dado slot that you need. A dado blade for a table saw
> however, can be configured to the exact size needed, so you adjust to
> what
> you want and then you can do many repeat cuts much faster.
>
> The good scenario when using routers is if you have a bit that cuts
> the
> exact size of dado that you need from the get go.
I've done it both ways and I find it easier, when necessary, to place a
thin strip of material (masking tape, UHMW plastic strip, etc.) along
side my routing guide than it is to mount a dado blade and remove and
remount it to keep adding (or subtracting) shims to get the correct
width.
But then I have a large assortment of router bits and I seldom have to
resort to adding anything to the guide.
There's a good plan from "Shop Notes" for a dado jig that would work
even better than my method.
Max
"Ted" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I am trying to decide either to make dadoos with a router or with a table
>saw. I know that they make router bits designed to match the true sixe of
>plywood.
>
> I have never worked with dadoos before. I have both 1/4 and 1/2 inch
> routers, which would be better? Do it in one pass or multiple working down
> to the final depth?
>
> If a table saw, what size blade would I get for my 10" table say?
>
> Thanks
>
> Ted
>
Personal preference. I used to do them with a router, I even designed a
router dado jig that does indeed make the perfect sized dado. You use the
actual material that will fit into the dado to set the jig up. Width does
not matter. You might be able to find the design plans on the internet if
you look for "Leon's dado jig".
Now however I typically use the stacked dado set on the TS if making more
than 1 dado. The TS stacked dado takes more time to set up than my jig but
after it is set up multiple dado's of the same size are much faster.
This will be my first big project. I will be making a closet system for
myself. I was thinking of using a rabit on the back for a back panel to fit
in. I was thinking of using dados for the permanent shelf's.
Ted
"Hoosierpopi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:d5529811-f3ea-446c-8d40-fba391e361fe@a26g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
> "either to make dadoos with a router or with a table saw . . .
> "is that they aren't....you know...plywood-sized. ...
>
> There is a technique used that kills this bird and on other off on the
> horizon - cutting a rabbit into the edge of the plywood to bring it to
> a "standard" thickness and cutting the dado in the mating piece to
> match.
>
> This saves you the expense of a "Plywood-sized" router bit (set?) and
> has the advantage of hiding the joint nicely. Sorry I couldn't come up
> with a link for youor even a "name" for the approach.
>
> Of course, as with most all who post here, your post was bereft of
> many of the details you were privy to in considering the alternatives.
> How large are the pieces you will be working with? Are you building
> shop shelves of heirloom cabinetry - if you are in prison, is it for
> you or the guards or your daddy?
>
>
> "Ted" wrote
I am trying to decide either to make dadoos with a router or with a
table
saw. I know that they make router bits designed to match the true sixe
of
plywood.
I have never worked with dadoos before. I have both 1/4 and 1/2 inch
routers, which would be better? Do it in one pass or multiple working
down
the final depth?
If a table saw, what size blade would I get for my 10" table say?
Thanks
Ted
I use a guide I made for the job
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mdinep/2526517102/
You can see that the guide is good for two different DeWalt routers (the
618 and the 621)
Max
Thanks to everyone for your answers. My first project for this will be
"cabinets" for a closet organizer system. I think that I will start with a
router setup due to all the different setups for each pass.
Ted
"todd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Ted" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>I am trying to decide either to make dadoos with a router or with a table
>>saw. I know that they make router bits designed to match the true sixe of
>>plywood.
>>
>> I have never worked with dadoos before. I have both 1/4 and 1/2 inch
>> routers, which would be better? Do it in one pass or multiple working
>> down to the final depth?
>>
>> If a table saw, what size blade would I get for my 10" table say?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Ted
>
> Ted,
> My suggestion is to do them on the table saw, but you'll need a stacked
> dado set that cuts a flat bottom. The problem I've found with
> "plywood-sized" router bits is that they aren't....you
> know...plywood-sized. The real problem is that plywood isn't
> plywood-sized, at least not what I find at my hardwood lumber store. The
> plywood bits I've seen are 1/32" undersized from the nominal plywood size.
> Hell, I can't get plywood that's only 1/16" undersize. What I do in this
> situation is measure the plywood thickness, set up my stacked dado set and
> cut a test in the same material I'll be using, test the fit, and adjust as
> needed. \\
>
> Mine is an 8". The dado set, that is.
>
> todd
>
>
"Hoosierpopi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:d5529811-f3ea-446c-8d40-fba391e361fe@a26g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
> "either to make dadoos with a router or with a table saw . . .
> "is that they aren't....you know...plywood-sized. ...
>
> There is a technique used that kills this bird and on other off on the
> horizon - cutting a rabbit into the edge of the plywood to bring it to
> a "standard" thickness and cutting the dado in the mating piece to
> match.
>
> This saves you the expense of a "Plywood-sized" router bit (set?) and
> has the advantage of hiding the joint nicely. Sorry I couldn't come up
> with a link for youor even a "name" for the approach.
This is exactly how I made my kitchen cabinets. I rabbeted the front edge
of the plywood to fit a mating dado in my face frames. I used a router bit
set from Marc Sommerfeld.
todd
"Ted" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> I am trying to decide either to make dadoos with a router or with a
> table saw. I know that they make router bits designed to match the
> true sixe of plywood.
>
> I have never worked with dadoos before. I have both 1/4 and 1/2 inch
> routers, which would be better? Do it in one pass or multiple working
> down to the final depth?
>
> If a table saw, what size blade would I get for my 10" table say?
>
> Thanks
>
> Ted
>
>
If you just need to cut a few dadoes, the standard table saw blade will
work just fine, it's just a bit tedious to set, cut, reset, cut, etc. If
you have a lot of dadoes to cut, get a good dado stack as described in the
other emails.
"Hoosierpopi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Veritas Dado Shims"
> , I like Lee Valley's plastic dado shims
>> http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=30063&cat=1,41080,51225...
>
> The threads on my saw's arbor "catch" shims from time to time (I have
> a few mangled shims as a result) and I was wondering if anyone had a
> "fix" other than wrapping a bit of scotch tape around the arbor before
> adding the dado blades and shims.
>
Take a look at this jig that Infinity offers at their site. Watch the video
too. It's a little pricy, but a neat jig. It's a no brainer doing dado's.
http://www.infinitytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=PDJ%2D100
"Ted" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I am trying to decide either to make dadoos with a router or with a table
>saw. I know that they make router bits designed to match the true sixe of
>plywood.
>
> I have never worked with dadoos before. I have both 1/4 and 1/2 inch
> routers, which would be better? Do it in one pass or multiple working down
> to the final depth?
>
> If a table saw, what size blade would I get for my 10" table say?
>
> Thanks
>
> Ted
>
Check out this web site and play the video.
http://www.infinitytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=PDJ%2D100
"Ted" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I am trying to decide either to make dadoos with a router or with a table
>saw. I know that they make router bits designed to match the true sixe of
>plywood.
>
> I have never worked with dadoos before. I have both 1/4 and 1/2 inch
> routers, which would be better? Do it in one pass or multiple working down
> to the final depth?
>
> If a table saw, what size blade would I get for my 10" table say?
>
> Thanks
>
> Ted
Ted,
My suggestion is to do them on the table saw, but you'll need a stacked dado
set that cuts a flat bottom. The problem I've found with "plywood-sized"
router bits is that they aren't....you know...plywood-sized. The real
problem is that plywood isn't plywood-sized, at least not what I find at my
hardwood lumber store. The plywood bits I've seen are 1/32" undersized from
the nominal plywood size. Hell, I can't get plywood that's only 1/16"
undersize. What I do in this situation is measure the plywood thickness,
set up my stacked dado set and cut a test in the same material I'll be
using, test the fit, and adjust as needed. \\
Mine is an 8". The dado set, that is.
todd
"either to make dadoos with a router or with a table saw . . .
"is that they aren't....you know...plywood-sized. ...
There is a technique used that kills this bird and on other off on the
horizon - cutting a rabbit into the edge of the plywood to bring it to
a "standard" thickness and cutting the dado in the mating piece to
match.
This saves you the expense of a "Plywood-sized" router bit (set?) and
has the advantage of hiding the joint nicely. Sorry I couldn't come up
with a link for youor even a "name" for the approach.
Of course, as with most all who post here, your post was bereft of
many of the details you were privy to in considering the alternatives.
How large are the pieces you will be working with? Are you building
shop shelves of heirloom cabinetry - if you are in prison, is it for
you or the guards or your daddy?
"Jack Stein" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> The width is easy to adjust in stacked dado's simply by putting paper
> "washers" for spacers between the blades to adjust the cut.
And, in preference to the suggested paper ships above, I like Lee Valley's
plastic dado shims that have a slot cut in them so one doesn't have to
remove the arbour nut completely to add or remove shims.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=30063&cat=1,41080,51225&ap=1
"Veritas Dado Shims"
, I like Lee Valley's plastic dado shims
> http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=30063&cat=1,41080,51225...
The threads on my saw's arbor "catch" shims from time to time (I have
a few mangled shims as a result) and I was wondering if anyone had a
"fix" other than wrapping a bit of scotch tape around the arbor before
adding the dado blades and shims.
I did a search and every instance all link back to
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/dado.html which is a bad link. I would love to
see it.
Ted
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Ted" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>I am trying to decide either to make dadoos with a router or with a table
>>saw. I know that they make router bits designed to match the true sixe of
>>plywood.
>>
>> I have never worked with dadoos before. I have both 1/4 and 1/2 inch
>> routers, which would be better? Do it in one pass or multiple working
>> down to the final depth?
>>
>> If a table saw, what size blade would I get for my 10" table say?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Ted
>>
>
> Personal preference. I used to do them with a router, I even designed a
> router dado jig that does indeed make the perfect sized dado. You use the
> actual material that will fit into the dado to set the jig up. Width does
> not matter. You might be able to find the design plans on the internet if
> you look for "Leon's dado jig".
> Now however I typically use the stacked dado set on the TS if making more
> than 1 dado. The TS stacked dado takes more time to set up than my jig
> but after it is set up multiple dado's of the same size are much faster.
>
>
Ted wrote:
> I am trying to decide either to make dadoos with a router or with a table
> saw. I know that they make router bits designed to match the true sixe of
> plywood.
Both! Generally, the table saw is faster and easier, but, if you want
to cut a dado on the ends of 8' book self sides, it's easier on a router
or a radial arm saw.
> I have never worked with dadoos before. I have both 1/4 and 1/2 inch
> routers, which would be better? Do it in one pass or multiple working down
> to the final depth?
You'll figure that out yourself after you cut a couple. Depends on
size, wood, cutter and so on.
> If a table saw, what size blade would I get for my 10" table say?
Dado sets are generally smaller than your regular 10" blades. dado's
are always shallow cuts not 3 inches deep so no need for a 10" dado set.
The width is easy to adjust in stacked dado's simply by putting paper
"washers" for spacers between the blades to adjust the cut. If you
don't own a dado set, I would recommend you stay away for the adjustable
wobble things, and get a nice standard stacked dado set.
--
Jack
Using FREE News Server: http://Motzarella.org
http://jbstein.com
"Morris Dovey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hoosierpopi wrote:
>> " look for "Leon's dado jig"."
>>
>> Was "up" on Desoto's site, but not today. Instead, I found the three-
>> legged sawhorses - worth a look.
>> http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Projects/SawHorse/
>
> It was there for quite a while, and was deleted (with a /lot/ of other
> files) when it seemed appropriate.
>
> There's an explanation at http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Misc.html
I hope you considered me a contributor rather than an offender. Either way
I did and do appreciate your site. Thank you again.
Ted wrote:
> I am trying to decide either to make dadoos with a router or with a table
> saw. I know that they make router bits designed to match the true sixe of
> plywood.
>
> I have never worked with dadoos before. I have both 1/4 and 1/2 inch
> routers, which would be better? Do it in one pass or multiple working down
> to the final depth?
>
> If a table saw, what size blade would I get for my 10" table say?
I do them both ways, depending on details and mood.
If the ends will be covered, 99% of the time, I'll use a table saw and
my Dado King set. If the ends will show, I'll use a router.
I have an 8" dado, but a 6" will work fine and save a few bucks. I use
a shopmade sled, story stick, and the fence to make identical parts.
The blades get set to a measurement of the actual shelf stock + a few
thou. I've never used my dado set for a depth that a 6" wouldn't have
handled.
Using a router, use a smaller bit than the groove, say, a 1/2" bit to
cut a 3/4" slot and Leon's auto adjusting jig. That's the simplest way
to perfect fitting routed dados I've ever tried. Depending on your
router, you can probably do it in two passes.
I can send you a pdf file by e-mail if you like. It is a basic CAD drawing.
If you are still interested I can give you some details to explain the
concept of how it works.
"Ted" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I did a search and every instance all link back to
>http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/dado.html which is a bad link. I would love to
>see it.
>
> Ted
>
>
> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> "Ted" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>>I am trying to decide either to make dadoos with a router or with a table
>>>saw. I know that they make router bits designed to match the true sixe of
>>>plywood.
>>>
>>> I have never worked with dadoos before. I have both 1/4 and 1/2 inch
>>> routers, which would be better? Do it in one pass or multiple working
>>> down to the final depth?
>>>
>>> If a table saw, what size blade would I get for my 10" table say?
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>> Ted
>>>
>>
>> Personal preference. I used to do them with a router, I even designed a
>> router dado jig that does indeed make the perfect sized dado. You use
>> the actual material that will fit into the dado to set the jig up. Width
>> does not matter. You might be able to find the design plans on the
>> internet if you look for "Leon's dado jig".
>> Now however I typically use the stacked dado set on the TS if making more
>> than 1 dado. The TS stacked dado takes more time to set up than my jig
>> but after it is set up multiple dado's of the same size are much faster.
>>
>>
>
>