On 12/1/2016 10:10 AM, Leon wrote:
>>> It is telling you that electronic speed control is better than not.
>>
>> Yahbut! ....according to John, you only need one speed ....as long as
>> you know what you are doing. ;)
>>
>> nb
>>
>
>
> Well John is right if a few speeds are giving what he considers
> acceptable results.
>
> Others may be more picky and or don't relish switching belts often. Put
> me in that camp.
Drilling one or two holes? Yeah, I can get it done at 500 rpm or 5,000
rpm. Drilling many holes on a production basis? If I can get a better
hole in less time a 2257 rpm than at 2260 rpm the accurate control is
wonderful.
We tend to look at tools such as this in how it will work for our needs
and forget a shop in another place is using it for hundreds of holes a day.
On 11/30/2016 8:43 PM, notbob wrote:
> On 2016-12-01, John McCoy <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> as I said if a drill press bogs it's probably telling
>> you there's a problem with what you're doing.
>
> Really? That's yer answer?
>
> Boy, have I been edified or what!? ;)
>
> nb
>
It is telling you that electronic speed control is better than not.
Jack <[email protected]> writes:
>The two things I don't like about my DP is raising and lowering the
>table. I'd like that to be electric, or on a ratcheting gear type
>device. The other is I would prefer a bench top rather than floor
>model. I never really needed the DP to drill into the end of a 4' board,
>and when I do, I use other methods. The floor model takes up valuable
>space, I would prefer to have my DP sit on top of a nice cabinet full of
>tools and stuff.
To be fair, nothing prevents you from building a "nice cabinet full
of tools and stuff" that lives under the drill press table. It could
even be on casters so you can slide it in (leave a hollow in the back
and bottom for the drill press post/stand).
On Friday, December 2, 2016 at 10:27:25 AM UTC-5, John McGaw wrote:
> On 11/29/2016 6:07 PM, Leon wrote:
> > A little pricey but no more than a PM.
> >
> > Anyway No belts, electronic speed control, programmable to stop drilling at
> > a certain depth.
> >
> > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ENqg-jX-6s
>
> A new kind of drill press but one which must be paid for with the old kind
> of money. I've been getting by with a refurbished Delta bought from their
> clearance center in Pigeon Forge. Sure, it is noisy and the speed is a
> bitch to change and the depth stop is a PITA and the quill has a bit of
> wobble when fully extended but I figure that it has cost me about $10 per
> year to own since 1998. If somebody gives me a lottery ticket and it
> happens to hit the big jackpot maybe I'll look at the new type (if I'm not
> too old to use it).
If somebody gives me a lottery ticket and it happens to hit the big
jackpot maybe I'll get you to do my drilling for me. ;-)
Jack <[email protected]> writes:
>On 12/6/2016 9:18 PM, Leon wrote:
>> On 12/6/2016 3:23 PM, Jack wrote:
>
>>>> To be fair, nothing prevents you from building a "nice cabinet full
>>>> of tools and stuff" that lives under the drill press table. It could
>>>> even be on casters so you can slide it in (leave a hollow in the back
>>>> and bottom for the drill press post/stand)
>>>
>>> Nothing other than a 3" steel pipe going thru the middle of the cabinet.
>
>> Jeez my 3" pipe is at the back of my DP table, yours goes through the
>> middle of the table???
>
>Jeez if I built a cabinet around my drill press most likely the pipe
>would be centered in the cabinet.
You did read the "slide it in [on casters] by leaving a hollow for the drill press
post/stand", right?
On Friday, December 9, 2016 at 8:58:39 AM UTC-5, Jack wrote:
> On 12/8/2016 7:37 PM, krw wrote:
> > On Thu, 8 Dec 2016 09:23:38 -0500, Jack <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> >> On 12/7/2016 2:39 PM, krw wrote:
> >>> On Wed, 7 Dec 2016 13:11:18 -0500, Jack <[email protected]> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> On 12/6/2016 9:18 PM, Leon wrote:
> >>>>> On 12/6/2016 3:23 PM, Jack wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>>>> To be fair, nothing prevents you from building a "nice cabinet full
> >>>>>>> of tools and stuff" that lives under the drill press table. It could
> >>>>>>> even be on casters so you can slide it in (leave a hollow in the back
> >>>>>>> and bottom for the drill press post/stand)
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Nothing other than a 3" steel pipe going thru the middle of the cabinet.
> >>>>
> >>>>> Jeez my 3" pipe is at the back of my DP table, yours goes through the
> >>>>> middle of the table???
> >>>>
> >>>> Jeez if I built a cabinet around my drill press most likely the pipe
> >>>> would be centered in the cabinet.
> >>>
> >>> Why? Like Leon, I'd put the post at the rear (unless the cabinet was
> >>> much deeper than the DP). There is no reason to spin the head around
> >>> and drill in the rear of the cabinet.
> >>
> >> Yes the post is in the rear dumb ass. If I built a cabinet around it,
> >> the post would be centered right to left, not front to back in the cabinet.
> >
> > Well that's obvious. Most people are smart enough to save words for
> > something more meaningful.
> >
> Exactly!
>
..and yet you used 274 words to explain to me how you would build a cabinet
for an imaginary bench top drill press and how you don't really care about
floor space after originally saying "the floor model takes up valuable floor
space."
You sure could have saved some words there.
On 12/2/2016 9:27 AM, John McGaw wrote:
> On 11/29/2016 6:07 PM, Leon wrote:
>> A little pricey but no more than a PM.
>>
>> Anyway No belts, electronic speed control, programmable to stop
>> drilling at
>> a certain depth.
>>
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ENqg-jX-6s
>
> A new kind of drill press but one which must be paid for with the old
> kind of money. I've been getting by with a refurbished Delta bought
> from their clearance center in Pigeon Forge. Sure, it is noisy and the
> speed is a bitch to change and the depth stop is a PITA and the quill
> has a bit of wobble when fully extended but I figure that it has cost me
> about $10 per year to own since 1998. If somebody gives me a lottery
> ticket and it happens to hit the big jackpot maybe I'll look at the new
> type (if I'm not too old to use it).
Obviously not for every one.
On 12/9/2016 8:33 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> You sure could have saved some words there.
Why gawd invented the Bozo bin ...
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
https://www.facebook.com/eWoodShop-206166666122228
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
Leon wrote:
> A little pricey but no more than a PM.
>
> Anyway No belts, electronic speed control, programmable to stop drilling
> at a certain depth.
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ENqg-jX-6s
>
I love my Nova electronic lathe, but admit all those push buttons are
daunting to my age and eyes. I often push the wrong button in the
heat of the moment, and a weird menu pops up unexpectedly. Then I
have to figure out how to back out of that. Sometimes it is by
turning the whole shooting match off and then re-booting. At least it
has a toggle on and off switch. And I get no joy in watching the
speedometer zip up and down as it checks the speed every nanosecond.
What if I put a fly cutter on it and absentmindedly set the speed at
5000 rpm? I would need a Kevlar vest to drill a hole.
--
GW Ross
Sincerity? I can fake that. - Hawkeye
Pierce
On 12/7/2016 1:11 PM, Jack wrote:
> On 12/6/2016 9:18 PM, Leon wrote:
>> On 12/6/2016 3:23 PM, Jack wrote:
>
>>>> To be fair, nothing prevents you from building a "nice cabinet full
>>>> of tools and stuff" that lives under the drill press table. It could
>>>> even be on casters so you can slide it in (leave a hollow in the back
>>>> and bottom for the drill press post/stand)
>>>
>>> Nothing other than a 3" steel pipe going thru the middle of the cabinet.
>
>> Jeez my 3" pipe is at the back of my DP table, yours goes through the
>> middle of the table???
>
> Jeez if I built a cabinet around my drill press most likely the pipe
> would be centered in the cabinet.
Jack, why not make lifting and lowering your table easier by
counterbalancing the table. Just drill throught the pole just under the
head , mount a garage door pulley about $6 from the borg, then use some
steel cable and attach to the table, use weights ((for lifting) or make
your own )to counter balance the weight of the table.
--
Jeff
On 1 Dec 2016 19:30:29 GMT, notbob <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 2016-12-01, John McCoy <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> So what's your opinion - is precision speed control useful
>> on a drill press, and if so why?
>
>It's better than a poke in the eye with a sharp stick!
>
>I understand what "close" means. That's when one outta five pulley
>speeds is 600rpm and you need 500rpm. It's NOT when you need 500rpm
>and you only have 3000rpm. IOW, 100rpm diff is "close enough", but
>2500rpm diff is not even remotely "close".
No one made that argument (i.e. a strawman).
>
>Hope this clears it up. ;)
>
>nb
On Wed, 7 Dec 2016 13:11:18 -0500, Jack <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 12/6/2016 9:18 PM, Leon wrote:
>> On 12/6/2016 3:23 PM, Jack wrote:
>
>>>> To be fair, nothing prevents you from building a "nice cabinet full
>>>> of tools and stuff" that lives under the drill press table. It could
>>>> even be on casters so you can slide it in (leave a hollow in the back
>>>> and bottom for the drill press post/stand)
>>>
>>> Nothing other than a 3" steel pipe going thru the middle of the cabinet.
>
>> Jeez my 3" pipe is at the back of my DP table, yours goes through the
>> middle of the table???
>
>Jeez if I built a cabinet around my drill press most likely the pipe
>would be centered in the cabinet.
Why? Like Leon, I'd put the post at the rear (unless the cabinet was
much deeper than the DP). There is no reason to spin the head around
and drill in the rear of the cabinet.
On Wednesday, December 7, 2016 at 1:11:28 PM UTC-5, Jack wrote:
> On 12/6/2016 9:18 PM, Leon wrote:
> > On 12/6/2016 3:23 PM, Jack wrote:
>
> >>> To be fair, nothing prevents you from building a "nice cabinet full
> >>> of tools and stuff" that lives under the drill press table. It could
> >>> even be on casters so you can slide it in (leave a hollow in the back
> >>> and bottom for the drill press post/stand)
> >>
> >> Nothing other than a 3" steel pipe going thru the middle of the cabinet.
>
> > Jeez my 3" pipe is at the back of my DP table, yours goes through the
> > middle of the table???
>
> Jeez if I built a cabinet around my drill press most likely the pipe
> would be centered in the cabinet.
Wasn't one of your original dislikes the amount of floor space your DP takes
up?
Wouldn't it take up even more space if you centered the pipe in a cabinet?
On Wednesday, November 30, 2016 at 1:57:53 PM UTC-8, G. Ross wrote:
> John McCoy wrote:
> > "G. Ross" <[email protected]> wrote in
> > news:[email protected]:
> > I can see the value of electronic speed control on a
> > lathe. Not sure I really see it as being useful on
> > a drill press - even for metal working, close is good
> > enough
> My lathe will go up to 3000 rpm, but I don't think I have ever used
> it at that speed. Why would you need 5500 rpm on a drill press, other
> than to impress the neighbors?
It depends on what you're drilling. I've used drill presses on plastic by
hand-turning the chuck, and have also had drilling operations that only
worked well at 4000 to 6000 rpm (and the drill had to be heavy duty cobalt).
On 11/29/2016 8:50 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Tue, 29 Nov 2016 17:42:10 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>> http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/nova-voyager-drill-press-features/
>
> Nice. I'd love to have one of those.
>
Expensive but not out of line, a Powermatic DP will run a a little bit
less with much fewer features.
On 12/5/2016 9:49 AM, Jack wrote:
> On 12/2/2016 10:27 AM, John McGaw wrote:
>
>> A new kind of drill press but one which must be paid for with the old
>> kind of money. I've been getting by with a refurbished Delta bought
>> from their clearance center in Pigeon Forge. Sure, it is noisy and the
>> speed is a bitch to change and the depth stop is a PITA and the quill
>> has a bit of wobble when fully extended but I figure that it has cost me
>> about $10 per year to own since 1998. If somebody gives me a lottery
>> ticket and it happens to hit the big jackpot maybe I'll look at the new
>> type (if I'm not too old to use it).
>
> My drill press is a King-Seely and I've been using it for 40 years in my
> cabinet shop, and it was born 20 years before that. I rarely ever change
> speeds unless doing something highly unusual, like using a fly cutter,
> something I've used maybe 4 times in 40 years, and at least one of those
> I didn't bother changing speeds. I've never once longed for a speed
> control like this, and to me it's mind boggling that one can bog down a
> drill press, power has never once been an issue for me. I would like
> the depth control thing-ee. (I'd like the speed thing to, but that
> doesn't excite me as much as the depth control)
>
> The two things I don't like about my DP is raising and lowering the
> table. I'd like that to be electric, or on a ratcheting gear type
> device. The other is I would prefer a bench top rather than floor
> model. I never really needed the DP to drill into the end of a 4' board,
> and when I do, I use other methods. The floor model takes up valuable
> space, I would prefer to have my DP sit on top of a nice cabinet full of
> tools and stuff.
>
> Any how, this looks nice, not needed much but I would trade my
> King-Seely for this sucker, but I bet it's life is measured in years
> rather than decades:-) For me, unless you have a specific need, or have
> an oil well in your back yard, you would be better off spending the
> extra cash on a segmented, spiral cutter head for your planer and or
> jointer.
>
Jack, I've got that electric lift, and a front locking wheel.
See this: http://imgur.com/a/KJXDI
But me thinks you contradicted yourself a few times. you rarely change
speeds but "I'd like the speed thing to, but that
> doesn't excite me as much as the depth control)"
I would probably agree about the benchtop vs floor standing. But if you
ever need it...
I also have a digital depth DRO.. on the cheap. I'll have to dig up pics.
--
Jeff
On 12/6/2016 3:36 PM, Jack wrote:
> On 12/5/2016 12:29 PM, Leon wrote:
>
>> I have had both bench top and now the floor model, my previous was a
>> Rockewll radial. I now have a Delta floor model and much prefer this
>> over the bench top. While the floor model takes up floor space, the
>> bench top either uses up table top space or floor space if on a stand.
>
> The bench top doesn't take up floor space if it sits on to of a cabinet
> where no cabinet existed when the floor model was there. I just have
> never found value to the floor model which I've had for 40 years. I at
> the end of my woodworking career, so won't be replacing what has worked
> for all these years, just pointing out what my view is on the subject.
>
>> The Rockwell had 4 belt speeds, I am clueless how many the Delta has but
>> 12+. While these speeds pretty much handle what I want changing is a
>> PIA, w belts to change and sometimes the belts have to come off to trade
>> height positions, so I simply do not change speeds as often as I would
>> like. About 8 years ago I used the Powermatic VS DP, IIRC it had a
>> reeves drive and was shockingly noisy. IIRC they have change this on
>> the most recent model.
>
> I rarely, very rarely change speeds and I've drilled holes in about
> everything imaginable, but 95% wood. I bet I would get in more trouble
> if I had the NOVA with infinite speeds available at my fingertips.
>
>>> Any how, this looks nice, not needed much but I would trade my
>>> King-Seely for this sucker, but I bet it's life is measured in years
>>> rather than decades:-) For me, unless you have a specific need, or have
>>> an oil well in your back yard, you would be better off spending the
>>> extra cash on a segmented, spiral cutter head for your planer and or
>>> jointer.
>
>> I have read a few times recently the segmented spiral head cutters do
>> not leave as smooth of fresh surface as a non-segmented spiral cutter.
>> There is always a bubble to be popped. ;~(
>
> Mine leaves super smooth cuts in anything, regardless of knots or grain
> direction. I call BS to those saying this, and I don't even have a high
> end machine. I suspect whomever said this is out to lunch, and has his
> head stuck far up a book somewhere. Just ain't so in real life.
>
Hey if you are happy, it is good enough.
On 12/6/2016 3:23 PM, Jack wrote:
> On 12/5/2016 11:37 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
>> Jack <[email protected]> writes:
>>
>>> The two things I don't like about my DP is raising and lowering the
>>> table. I'd like that to be electric, or on a ratcheting gear type
>>> device. The other is I would prefer a bench top rather than floor
>>> model. I never really needed the DP to drill into the end of a 4' board,
>>> and when I do, I use other methods. The floor model takes up valuable
>>> space, I would prefer to have my DP sit on top of a nice cabinet full of
>>> tools and stuff.
>>
>> To be fair, nothing prevents you from building a "nice cabinet full
>> of tools and stuff" that lives under the drill press table. It could
>> even be on casters so you can slide it in (leave a hollow in the back
>> and bottom for the drill press post/stand)
>
> Nothing other than a 3" steel pipe going thru the middle of the cabinet.
>
Jeez my 3" pipe is at the back of my DP table, yours goes through the
middle of the table???
On 11/29/2016 5:07 PM, Leon wrote:
> A little pricey but no more than a PM.
>
> Anyway No belts, electronic speed control, programmable to stop drilling
> at a certain depth.
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ENqg-jX-6s
Crap, that happened to play next on my end.
http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/nova-voyager-drill-press-features/
On 12/1/2016 12:11 PM, John McCoy wrote:
> notbob <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
>> Boy, have I been edified or what!? ;)
>
> Dunno, have you? :-)
>
> So what's your opinion - is precision speed control useful
> on a drill press, and if so why?
>
> John
>
INHO speed control as in maintaining the speed is more important than an
infinite number of speeds.
Drilling 60~70 35mm holes in oak can be quite tedious if you have to
baby the feed rate.
John McCoy wrote:
> "G. Ross" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> I love my Nova electronic lathe, but admit all those push buttons are
>> daunting to my age and eyes.
>
> I can see the value of electronic speed control on a
> lathe. Not sure I really see it as being useful on
> a drill press - even for metal working, close is good
> enough, and if it bogs down that's telling you something,
> and "more power" probably isn't the right answer.
>
> John
>
My lathe will go up to 3000 rpm, but I don't think I have ever used
it at that speed. Why would you need 5500 rpm on a drill press, other
than to impress the neighbors? It is like having a car in the garage
that will do 300 mph, but no place to safely go that fast.
In my time I have seen chucks fall out of the quill, chuck keys left
in the chuck and bits that were not centered before tightening. But
never at these speeds.
--
GW Ross
If you think you've found it, keep looking.
On 11/29/2016 6:07 PM, Leon wrote:
> A little pricey but no more than a PM.
>
> Anyway No belts, electronic speed control, programmable to stop drilling
> at a certain depth.
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ENqg-jX-6s
Nifty. Next time I find an extra $1499 in the checking account I'm
going to order one.
"G. Ross" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> I love my Nova electronic lathe, but admit all those push buttons are
> daunting to my age and eyes.
I can see the value of electronic speed control on a
lathe. Not sure I really see it as being useful on
a drill press - even for metal working, close is good
enough, and if it bogs down that's telling you something,
and "more power" probably isn't the right answer.
John
notbob <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> On 2016-11-30, John McCoy <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Not sure I really see it as being useful on
>> a drill press - even for metal working, close is good
>> enough..........
>
> Fer carbon steel, the avg drill speed fer a 1/2" twist bit is about
> 600 RPM. Avg drill speed fer a 1/16" twist drill, in the same
> material, is about 3000 RPM.
>
> Somehow, I don't think 3000 RPM is hardly "close" fer a 1/2" twist
> drill. ;)
No, it wouldn't be. But what I meant was the speeds you
get with stepped pulleys are close enough...you may figure
600 is "right", but 550 or 625 will get the job done. And
if you get 2750 instead of 3000 with the belt on the other
set of pulleys, that's probably good enough too.
But really the point I was getting at is the electronic
control will ramp the power up & down to keep the speed
constant. I can see that being useful on a lathe. But
I don't see it being that useful on a drill press, and
as I said if a drill press bogs it's probably telling
you there's a problem with what you're doing.
John
notbob <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> Boy, have I been edified or what!? ;)
Dunno, have you? :-)
So what's your opinion - is precision speed control useful
on a drill press, and if so why?
John
On 11/29/2016 7:13 PM, G. Ross wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>> A little pricey but no more than a PM.
>>
>> Anyway No belts, electronic speed control, programmable to stop drilling
>> at a certain depth.
>>
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ENqg-jX-6s
>>
> I love my Nova electronic lathe, but admit all those push buttons are
> daunting to my age and eyes. I often push the wrong button in the heat
> of the moment, and a weird menu pops up unexpectedly. Then I have to
> figure out how to back out of that. Sometimes it is by turning the
> whole shooting match off and then re-booting. At least it has a toggle
> on and off switch. And I get no joy in watching the speedometer zip up
> and down as it checks the speed every nanosecond.
Obviously not for every one.
> What if I put a fly cutter on it and absentmindedly set the speed at
> 5000 rpm? I would need a Kevlar vest to drill a hole.
>
What if you put a fly cutter on it and forget to change the belts to a
lower speed? You cannot fault the DP for your haste or mistake.
On 12/7/2016 12:11 PM, Jack wrote:
> On 12/6/2016 9:20 PM, Leon wrote:
>> On 12/6/2016 3:36 PM, Jack wrote:
>>> On 12/5/2016 12:29 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>
>>>> I have had both bench top and now the floor model, my previous was a
>>>> Rockewll radial. I now have a Delta floor model and much prefer this
>>>> over the bench top. While the floor model takes up floor space, the
>>>> bench top either uses up table top space or floor space if on a stand.
>>>
>>> The bench top doesn't take up floor space if it sits on to of a cabinet
>>> where no cabinet existed when the floor model was there. I just have
>>> never found value to the floor model which I've had for 40 years. I at
>>> the end of my woodworking career, so won't be replacing what has worked
>>> for all these years, just pointing out what my view is on the subject.
>>>
>>>> The Rockwell had 4 belt speeds, I am clueless how many the Delta has
>>>> but
>>>> 12+. While these speeds pretty much handle what I want changing is a
>>>> PIA, w belts to change and sometimes the belts have to come off to
>>>> trade
>>>> height positions, so I simply do not change speeds as often as I would
>>>> like. About 8 years ago I used the Powermatic VS DP, IIRC it had a
>>>> reeves drive and was shockingly noisy. IIRC they have change this on
>>>> the most recent model.
>>>
>>> I rarely, very rarely change speeds and I've drilled holes in about
>>> everything imaginable, but 95% wood. I bet I would get in more trouble
>>> if I had the NOVA with infinite speeds available at my fingertips.
>>>
>>>>> Any how, this looks nice, not needed much but I would trade my
>>>>> King-Seely for this sucker, but I bet it's life is measured in years
>>>>> rather than decades:-) For me, unless you have a specific need, or
>>>>> have
>>>>> an oil well in your back yard, you would be better off spending the
>>>>> extra cash on a segmented, spiral cutter head for your planer and or
>>>>> jointer.
>>>
>>>> I have read a few times recently the segmented spiral head cutters do
>>>> not leave as smooth of fresh surface as a non-segmented spiral cutter.
>>>> There is always a bubble to be popped. ;~(
>>>
>>> Mine leaves super smooth cuts in anything, regardless of knots or grain
>>> direction. I call BS to those saying this, and I don't even have a high
>>> end machine. I suspect whomever said this is out to lunch, and has his
>>> head stuck far up a book somewhere. Just ain't so in real life.
>>>
>>
>> Hey if you are happy, it is good enough.
>
> Not completely happy. I listed the two things my DP doesn't have that
> would make me happier, although not $1500 happier. One is bench top
> model, and the other is easier table lifting mechanism.
>
I was talking about the quality of finish left by a segmented spiral
cutter. :~)
On 11/30/2016 4:04 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 11/30/2016 2:18 PM, John McCoy wrote:
>> "G. Ross" <[email protected]> wrote in
>> news:[email protected]:
>>
>>> I love my Nova electronic lathe, but admit all those push buttons are
>>> daunting to my age and eyes.
>>
>> I can see the value of electronic speed control on a
>> lathe. Not sure I really see it as being useful on
>> a drill press - even for metal working, close is good
>> enough, and if it bogs down that's telling you something,
>> and "more power" probably isn't the right answer.
>>
>> John
>>
>
>
> Well possibly, if you do not often use a DP much, close is good enough,
> Forster bits do like to be spun at particular speeds and while precise
> is not necessary the speed control dial beats the dickens out of having
> to move belts around, and if you can dial the correct speed, why not.
>
> Bogging down on a DP with belt drive can equally mean you have chosen
> the wrong speed/belt combination for a particular soft or hard wood
> regardless of feed rate.
>
> There is a big difference in resistance from a 35mm Forstner bit
> drilling into plywood, MDF, poplar and or white oak, to name a few.
I'm with John on this, and I use my DP very often. Both for wood and metal.
I just don't need it. Would it be easier to adjust speeds, hell yea. But
do I need it.. no... A reeves drive would also provide the same ability
to set speed easily.
I also take the belt off and use the spindle to tap, it keeps the tap
straight, so there are no problems. Can't do that with direct drive,
and I doubt that free wheels easily.
--
Jeff
On Thu, 8 Dec 2016 09:23:38 -0500, Jack <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 12/7/2016 2:39 PM, krw wrote:
>> On Wed, 7 Dec 2016 13:11:18 -0500, Jack <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> On 12/6/2016 9:18 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>> On 12/6/2016 3:23 PM, Jack wrote:
>>>
>>>>>> To be fair, nothing prevents you from building a "nice cabinet full
>>>>>> of tools and stuff" that lives under the drill press table. It could
>>>>>> even be on casters so you can slide it in (leave a hollow in the back
>>>>>> and bottom for the drill press post/stand)
>>>>>
>>>>> Nothing other than a 3" steel pipe going thru the middle of the cabinet.
>>>
>>>> Jeez my 3" pipe is at the back of my DP table, yours goes through the
>>>> middle of the table???
>>>
>>> Jeez if I built a cabinet around my drill press most likely the pipe
>>> would be centered in the cabinet.
>>
>> Why? Like Leon, I'd put the post at the rear (unless the cabinet was
>> much deeper than the DP). There is no reason to spin the head around
>> and drill in the rear of the cabinet.
>
>Yes the post is in the rear dumb ass. If I built a cabinet around it,
>the post would be centered right to left, not front to back in the cabinet.
Well that's obvious. Most people are smart enough to save words for
something more meaningful.
On Tuesday, November 29, 2016 at 6:42:21 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
> On 11/29/2016 5:07 PM, Leon wrote:
> > A little pricey but no more than a PM.
> >
> > Anyway No belts, electronic speed control, programmable to stop drilling
> > at a certain depth.
> >
> > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ENqg-jX-6s
>
>
> Crap, that happened to play next on my end.
>
> http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/nova-voyager-drill-press-features/
Nice, but if I can pick a nit, that is not a "touch screen interface".
On 2016-11-30, John McCoy <[email protected]> wrote:
> Not sure I really see it as being useful on
> a drill press - even for metal working, close is good
> enough..........
Fer carbon steel, the avg drill speed fer a 1/2" twist bit is about
600 RPM. Avg drill speed fer a 1/16" twist drill, in the same
material, is about 3000 RPM.
Somehow, I don't think 3000 RPM is hardly "close" fer a 1/2" twist
drill. ;)
nb
On 2016-12-01, John McCoy <[email protected]> wrote:
> as I said if a drill press bogs it's probably telling
> you there's a problem with what you're doing.
Really? That's yer answer?
Boy, have I been edified or what!? ;)
nb
On 2016-12-01, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
> On 11/30/2016 8:43 PM, notbob wrote:
>> On 2016-12-01, John McCoy <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> you there's a problem with what you're doing.
>> Really? That's yer answer? Boy, have I been edified or what!? ;)
> It is telling you that electronic speed control is better than not.
Yahbut! ....according to John, you only need one speed ....as long as
you know what you are doing. ;)
nb
On 2016-12-01, John McCoy <[email protected]> wrote:
> So what's your opinion - is precision speed control useful
> on a drill press, and if so why?
It's better than a poke in the eye with a sharp stick!
I understand what "close" means. That's when one outta five pulley
speeds is 600rpm and you need 500rpm. It's NOT when you need 500rpm
and you only have 3000rpm. IOW, 100rpm diff is "close enough", but
2500rpm diff is not even remotely "close".
Hope this clears it up. ;)
nb
On 12/1/2016 3:24 PM, woodchucker wrote:
> On 12/1/2016 2:30 PM, notbob wrote:
>> On 2016-12-01, John McCoy <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> So what's your opinion - is precision speed control useful
>>> on a drill press, and if so why?
>>
>> It's better than a poke in the eye with a sharp stick!
>>
>> I understand what "close" means. That's when one outta five pulley
>> speeds is 600rpm and you need 500rpm. It's NOT when you need 500rpm
>> and you only have 3000rpm. IOW, 100rpm diff is "close enough", but
>> 2500rpm diff is not even remotely "close".
>>
>> Hope this clears it up. ;)
>>
>> nb
>>
>
> I don't think precision is that necessary.
I DON'T THINK PRECISION SPEED is THAT necessary. I do think a straight
accurate hole is.:-)
> I have a 12 or 16 speed, don't remember.. I use probably 4-5 regularly.
> Mostly with metal. With wood probably 3 speeds.
>
> I think metal workers have more of a need to vary speed, as: you can
> break a bit, burn it up, not have enough torque, not have enough heat
> (yes I said not have enough). Certain metals require higher speeds, and
> most carbide bits require higher sped.
>
> But with wood, I'd be very hard pressed to say that even a few hundred
> rpm would matter, to me it's just slow , medium and fast... (not even
> the fastest my dp can go).
>
>
--
Jeff
On 12/1/2016 2:30 PM, notbob wrote:
> On 2016-12-01, John McCoy <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> So what's your opinion - is precision speed control useful
>> on a drill press, and if so why?
>
> It's better than a poke in the eye with a sharp stick!
>
> I understand what "close" means. That's when one outta five pulley
> speeds is 600rpm and you need 500rpm. It's NOT when you need 500rpm
> and you only have 3000rpm. IOW, 100rpm diff is "close enough", but
> 2500rpm diff is not even remotely "close".
>
> Hope this clears it up. ;)
>
> nb
>
I don't think precision is that necessary.
I have a 12 or 16 speed, don't remember.. I use probably 4-5 regularly.
Mostly with metal. With wood probably 3 speeds.
I think metal workers have more of a need to vary speed, as: you can
break a bit, burn it up, not have enough torque, not have enough heat
(yes I said not have enough). Certain metals require higher speeds, and
most carbide bits require higher sped.
But with wood, I'd be very hard pressed to say that even a few hundred
rpm would matter, to me it's just slow , medium and fast... (not even
the fastest my dp can go).
--
Jeff
On 1 Dec 2016 13:14:17 GMT, notbob <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 2016-12-01, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>
>> On 11/30/2016 8:43 PM, notbob wrote:
>
>>> On 2016-12-01, John McCoy <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>>> you there's a problem with what you're doing.
>
>>> Really? That's yer answer? Boy, have I been edified or what!? ;)
>
>> It is telling you that electronic speed control is better than not.
>
>Yahbut! ....according to John, you only need one speed ....as long as
>you know what you are doing. ;)
>JOHN: No, it wouldn't be. But what I meant was the speeds you
>JOHN: get with stepped pulleys are close enough...you may figure
>JOHN: 600 is "right", but 550 or 625 will get the job done. And
>JOHN: if you get 2750 instead of 3000 with the belt on the other
>JOHN: set of pulleys, that's probably good enough too.
At least the way I read the <above> simple sentences that you were
responding to, it doesn't sound like John thinks "you only need one
speed".
On 11/30/2016 4:09 PM, woodchucker wrote:
> On 11/30/2016 4:04 PM, Leon wrote:
>> On 11/30/2016 2:18 PM, John McCoy wrote:
>>> "G. Ross" <[email protected]> wrote in
>>> news:[email protected]:
>>>
>>>> I love my Nova electronic lathe, but admit all those push buttons are
>>>> daunting to my age and eyes.
>>>
>>> I can see the value of electronic speed control on a
>>> lathe. Not sure I really see it as being useful on
>>> a drill press - even for metal working, close is good
>>> enough, and if it bogs down that's telling you something,
>>> and "more power" probably isn't the right answer.
>>>
>>> John
>>>
>>
>>
>> Well possibly, if you do not often use a DP much, close is good enough,
>> Forster bits do like to be spun at particular speeds and while precise
>> is not necessary the speed control dial beats the dickens out of having
>> to move belts around, and if you can dial the correct speed, why not.
>>
>> Bogging down on a DP with belt drive can equally mean you have chosen
>> the wrong speed/belt combination for a particular soft or hard wood
>> regardless of feed rate.
>>
>> There is a big difference in resistance from a 35mm Forstner bit
>> drilling into plywood, MDF, poplar and or white oak, to name a few.
>
> I'm with John on this, and I use my DP very often. Both for wood and metal.
>
> I just don't need it. Would it be easier to adjust speeds, hell yea. But
> do I need it.. no... A reeves drive would also provide the same ability
> to set speed easily.
>
> I also take the belt off and use the spindle to tap, it keeps the tap
> straight, so there are no problems. Can't do that with direct drive,
> and I doubt that free wheels easily.
>
I do this on my DP but I don't take the belt off. I can't see why you
would not be able to do this with direct drive.
On 11/29/2016 6:07 PM, Leon wrote:
> A little pricey but no more than a PM.
>
> Anyway No belts, electronic speed control, programmable to stop drilling at
> a certain depth.
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ENqg-jX-6s
A new kind of drill press but one which must be paid for with the old kind
of money. I've been getting by with a refurbished Delta bought from their
clearance center in Pigeon Forge. Sure, it is noisy and the speed is a
bitch to change and the depth stop is a PITA and the quill has a bit of
wobble when fully extended but I figure that it has cost me about $10 per
year to own since 1998. If somebody gives me a lottery ticket and it
happens to hit the big jackpot maybe I'll look at the new type (if I'm not
too old to use it).
On Fri, 9 Dec 2016 10:21:19 -0500, Jack <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 12/9/2016 9:33 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>
>>>>>> Why? Like Leon, I'd put the post at the rear (unless the cabinet was
>>>>>> much deeper than the DP). There is no reason to spin the head around
>>>>>> and drill in the rear of the cabinet.
>>>>>
>>>>> Yes the post is in the rear dumb ass. If I built a cabinet around it,
>>>>> the post would be centered right to left, not front to back in the cabinet.
>>>>
>>>> Well that's obvious. Most people are smart enough to save words for
>>>> something more meaningful.
>>>>
>>> Exactly!
>
>> ..and yet you used 274 words to explain to me how you would build a cabinet
>> for an imaginary bench top drill press and how you don't really care about
>> floor space after originally saying "the floor model takes up valuable floor
>> space."
>
>> You sure could have saved some words there.
>
>I'm not the one worried about running out of words. And I didn't ask
>anyone about how to build a cabinet around my drill press. The dumb ass
>pontificates about the post being in the back of the drill press (DUH)
>so I have to "waste words" explaining to the dumb ass that the post is
>centered left to right, not front to back (another DUH) then the idiot
>chastises me for explaining it to him. He is a simpleton, plain and simple.
If you would write clearly, there wouldn't be any misunderstanding.
More words doesn't equate to better writing.
>
>As for you wasting your time counting my words, I already "wasted words"
>explaining my thoughts were not for the geniuses in this group to
>explain to me what I needed to do, but to give my opinions on what I
>would look for in a drill press based on my considerable experience.
>I have not a problem with people making suggestions I didn't ask for,
>since it provides a platform for everyone to learn.
...and the wasted words keep coming.
>
>I gave reasons for my opinions, such as I rarely to never had a need for
>a floor model drill press, and a bench top could sit on top of a useful
>cabinet, things a newbie might want to consider.
..and coming.
>
>You of course wasted words explaining to me some nonsense about wasting
>space building a cabinet around a drill press. Sure hope you don't run
>out of words because of that wasted effort.
Eveready words.
On 12/9/2016 8:17 PM, krw wrote:
> If you would write clearly, there wouldn't be any misunderstanding.
> More words doesn't equate to better writing.
If you learned how to read and comprehend, I wouldn't need to "waste"
words explaining the obvious to the likes of you.
--
Jack
No Matter how big a hammer you use, you can't pound common sense into
stupid people!
http://jbstein.com
On 12/2/2016 10:27 AM, John McGaw wrote:
> A new kind of drill press but one which must be paid for with the old
> kind of money. I've been getting by with a refurbished Delta bought
> from their clearance center in Pigeon Forge. Sure, it is noisy and the
> speed is a bitch to change and the depth stop is a PITA and the quill
> has a bit of wobble when fully extended but I figure that it has cost me
> about $10 per year to own since 1998. If somebody gives me a lottery
> ticket and it happens to hit the big jackpot maybe I'll look at the new
> type (if I'm not too old to use it).
My drill press is a King-Seely and I've been using it for 40 years in my
cabinet shop, and it was born 20 years before that. I rarely ever change
speeds unless doing something highly unusual, like using a fly cutter,
something I've used maybe 4 times in 40 years, and at least one of those
I didn't bother changing speeds. I've never once longed for a speed
control like this, and to me it's mind boggling that one can bog down a
drill press, power has never once been an issue for me. I would like
the depth control thing-ee. (I'd like the speed thing to, but that
doesn't excite me as much as the depth control)
The two things I don't like about my DP is raising and lowering the
table. I'd like that to be electric, or on a ratcheting gear type
device. The other is I would prefer a bench top rather than floor
model. I never really needed the DP to drill into the end of a 4' board,
and when I do, I use other methods. The floor model takes up valuable
space, I would prefer to have my DP sit on top of a nice cabinet full of
tools and stuff.
Any how, this looks nice, not needed much but I would trade my
King-Seely for this sucker, but I bet it's life is measured in years
rather than decades:-) For me, unless you have a specific need, or have
an oil well in your back yard, you would be better off spending the
extra cash on a segmented, spiral cutter head for your planer and or
jointer.
--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com
On Sat, 10 Dec 2016 11:55:05 -0500, Jack <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 12/9/2016 8:17 PM, krw wrote:
>
>> If you would write clearly, there wouldn't be any misunderstanding.
>> More words doesn't equate to better writing.
>
>If you learned how to read and comprehend, I wouldn't need to "waste"
>words explaining the obvious to the likes of you.
Yet you do.
I can read. You've proven that you can't write.
You can go away now.
On 12/5/2016 11:37 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
> Jack <[email protected]> writes:
>
>> The two things I don't like about my DP is raising and lowering the
>> table. I'd like that to be electric, or on a ratcheting gear type
>> device. The other is I would prefer a bench top rather than floor
>> model. I never really needed the DP to drill into the end of a 4' board,
>> and when I do, I use other methods. The floor model takes up valuable
>> space, I would prefer to have my DP sit on top of a nice cabinet full of
>> tools and stuff.
>
> To be fair, nothing prevents you from building a "nice cabinet full
> of tools and stuff" that lives under the drill press table. It could
> even be on casters so you can slide it in (leave a hollow in the back
> and bottom for the drill press post/stand)
Nothing other than a 3" steel pipe going thru the middle of the cabinet.
--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com
On 12/5/2016 12:29 PM, Leon wrote:
> I have had both bench top and now the floor model, my previous was a
> Rockewll radial. I now have a Delta floor model and much prefer this
> over the bench top. While the floor model takes up floor space, the
> bench top either uses up table top space or floor space if on a stand.
The bench top doesn't take up floor space if it sits on to of a cabinet
where no cabinet existed when the floor model was there. I just have
never found value to the floor model which I've had for 40 years. I at
the end of my woodworking career, so won't be replacing what has worked
for all these years, just pointing out what my view is on the subject.
> The Rockwell had 4 belt speeds, I am clueless how many the Delta has but
> 12+. While these speeds pretty much handle what I want changing is a
> PIA, w belts to change and sometimes the belts have to come off to trade
> height positions, so I simply do not change speeds as often as I would
> like. About 8 years ago I used the Powermatic VS DP, IIRC it had a
> reeves drive and was shockingly noisy. IIRC they have change this on
> the most recent model.
I rarely, very rarely change speeds and I've drilled holes in about
everything imaginable, but 95% wood. I bet I would get in more trouble
if I had the NOVA with infinite speeds available at my fingertips.
>> Any how, this looks nice, not needed much but I would trade my
>> King-Seely for this sucker, but I bet it's life is measured in years
>> rather than decades:-) For me, unless you have a specific need, or have
>> an oil well in your back yard, you would be better off spending the
>> extra cash on a segmented, spiral cutter head for your planer and or
>> jointer.
> I have read a few times recently the segmented spiral head cutters do
> not leave as smooth of fresh surface as a non-segmented spiral cutter.
> There is always a bubble to be popped. ;~(
Mine leaves super smooth cuts in anything, regardless of knots or grain
direction. I call BS to those saying this, and I don't even have a high
end machine. I suspect whomever said this is out to lunch, and has his
head stuck far up a book somewhere. Just ain't so in real life.
--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com
On 12/5/2016 11:30 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>
>
> Jack, I've got that electric lift, and a front locking wheel.
> See this: http://imgur.com/a/KJXDI
>
> But me thinks you contradicted yourself a few times. you rarely change
> speeds but "I'd like the speed thing to, but that
> > doesn't excite me as much as the depth control)"
>
> I would probably agree about the benchtop vs floor standing. But if you
> ever need it...
>
> I also have a digital depth DRO.. on the cheap. I'll have to dig up pics.
Looks cool woodchucker. Love the ingenuity. My DP just has a sleeve
that slides up and down the post. It's a real bear, and gets harder has
I age. I should have replace the DP years ago, the ain't that much
money, other than this newfangled NOVA. Wonder if they have a bench top
model?
I never owned a bench top DP myself, but I can't say I ever needed the
floor model for anything a bench top couldn't do. I vaguely remember
flipping my table to vertical and drilling a hole in the end of a long
4x4, but that was a long, long time ago, and I did it because I could.
Never repeated it. I'm sure there are people that need this feature,
but nowhere near as many as purchase a giant floor model. I guess about
99.999% of holes I drill is in stuff that easily fit on a bench model.
--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com
On 12/6/2016 9:20 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 12/6/2016 3:36 PM, Jack wrote:
>> On 12/5/2016 12:29 PM, Leon wrote:
>>
>>> I have had both bench top and now the floor model, my previous was a
>>> Rockewll radial. I now have a Delta floor model and much prefer this
>>> over the bench top. While the floor model takes up floor space, the
>>> bench top either uses up table top space or floor space if on a stand.
>>
>> The bench top doesn't take up floor space if it sits on to of a cabinet
>> where no cabinet existed when the floor model was there. I just have
>> never found value to the floor model which I've had for 40 years. I at
>> the end of my woodworking career, so won't be replacing what has worked
>> for all these years, just pointing out what my view is on the subject.
>>
>>> The Rockwell had 4 belt speeds, I am clueless how many the Delta has but
>>> 12+. While these speeds pretty much handle what I want changing is a
>>> PIA, w belts to change and sometimes the belts have to come off to trade
>>> height positions, so I simply do not change speeds as often as I would
>>> like. About 8 years ago I used the Powermatic VS DP, IIRC it had a
>>> reeves drive and was shockingly noisy. IIRC they have change this on
>>> the most recent model.
>>
>> I rarely, very rarely change speeds and I've drilled holes in about
>> everything imaginable, but 95% wood. I bet I would get in more trouble
>> if I had the NOVA with infinite speeds available at my fingertips.
>>
>>>> Any how, this looks nice, not needed much but I would trade my
>>>> King-Seely for this sucker, but I bet it's life is measured in years
>>>> rather than decades:-) For me, unless you have a specific need, or
>>>> have
>>>> an oil well in your back yard, you would be better off spending the
>>>> extra cash on a segmented, spiral cutter head for your planer and or
>>>> jointer.
>>
>>> I have read a few times recently the segmented spiral head cutters do
>>> not leave as smooth of fresh surface as a non-segmented spiral cutter.
>>> There is always a bubble to be popped. ;~(
>>
>> Mine leaves super smooth cuts in anything, regardless of knots or grain
>> direction. I call BS to those saying this, and I don't even have a high
>> end machine. I suspect whomever said this is out to lunch, and has his
>> head stuck far up a book somewhere. Just ain't so in real life.
>>
>
> Hey if you are happy, it is good enough.
Not completely happy. I listed the two things my DP doesn't have that
would make me happier, although not $1500 happier. One is bench top
model, and the other is easier table lifting mechanism.
--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com
On 12/6/2016 9:18 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 12/6/2016 3:23 PM, Jack wrote:
>>> To be fair, nothing prevents you from building a "nice cabinet full
>>> of tools and stuff" that lives under the drill press table. It could
>>> even be on casters so you can slide it in (leave a hollow in the back
>>> and bottom for the drill press post/stand)
>>
>> Nothing other than a 3" steel pipe going thru the middle of the cabinet.
> Jeez my 3" pipe is at the back of my DP table, yours goes through the
> middle of the table???
Jeez if I built a cabinet around my drill press most likely the pipe
would be centered in the cabinet.
--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com
On 12/7/2016 2:39 PM, krw wrote:
> On Wed, 7 Dec 2016 13:11:18 -0500, Jack <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> On 12/6/2016 9:18 PM, Leon wrote:
>>> On 12/6/2016 3:23 PM, Jack wrote:
>>
>>>>> To be fair, nothing prevents you from building a "nice cabinet full
>>>>> of tools and stuff" that lives under the drill press table. It could
>>>>> even be on casters so you can slide it in (leave a hollow in the back
>>>>> and bottom for the drill press post/stand)
>>>>
>>>> Nothing other than a 3" steel pipe going thru the middle of the cabinet.
>>
>>> Jeez my 3" pipe is at the back of my DP table, yours goes through the
>>> middle of the table???
>>
>> Jeez if I built a cabinet around my drill press most likely the pipe
>> would be centered in the cabinet.
>
> Why? Like Leon, I'd put the post at the rear (unless the cabinet was
> much deeper than the DP). There is no reason to spin the head around
> and drill in the rear of the cabinet.
Yes the post is in the rear dumb ass. If I built a cabinet around it,
the post would be centered right to left, not front to back in the cabinet.
--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com
On 12/7/2016 2:59 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Wednesday, December 7, 2016 at 1:11:28 PM UTC-5, Jack wrote:
>> On 12/6/2016 9:18 PM, Leon wrote:
>>> On 12/6/2016 3:23 PM, Jack wrote:
>>
>>>>> To be fair, nothing prevents you from building a "nice cabinet full
>>>>> of tools and stuff" that lives under the drill press table. It could
>>>>> even be on casters so you can slide it in (leave a hollow in the back
>>>>> and bottom for the drill press post/stand)
>>>>
>>>> Nothing other than a 3" steel pipe going thru the middle of the cabinet.
>>
>>> Jeez my 3" pipe is at the back of my DP table, yours goes through the
>>> middle of the table???
>>
>> Jeez if I built a cabinet around my drill press most likely the pipe
>> would be centered in the cabinet.
>
> Wasn't one of your original dislikes the amount of floor space your DP takes
> up?
>
> Wouldn't it take up even more space if you centered the pipe in a cabinet?
I wouldn't center the pipe in the cabinet because I wouldn't be the one
building a cabinet around my drill press. I would build a cabinet as I
liked, full of drawers to store stuff. I would then place a Bench top
DP on top of the cabinet. So then, I would have a cabinet and a drill
press where I now have a drill press only.
I could build a cabinet on legs, stick it in front of my drill press,
which would be about 14 inches off the wall, making the cabinet stick
way out in the room, or, build it so shallow, it would be stupid. Also,
I could build a standard cabinet with a 14" hollow cut out for the post,
which would be even more stupid.
If I really cared that much about space, I would have sold my drill
press and bought a bench top model. I don't care that much, actually
not at all as my wood working days are nearing its end. I simply
mentioned what I personally would like in a drill press. the Nova
offers expensive features I personally never longed for, and if they
don't offer a bench top model, I wouldn't buy it with your money.
Those starting out, with limited shop space and w/o an oil well in their
back yard, might mull over. Those with unlimited shop space, and an oil
well in there back yard can run out and buy a Nova. I'd bet there are
plenty of other, even more expensive drill presses that they could buy.
Just think what great furniture, or domino's they could build then...
--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com
On 12/7/2016 3:30 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 12/7/2016 12:11 PM, Jack wrote:
>> On 12/6/2016 9:20 PM, Leon wrote:
>>> On 12/6/2016 3:36 PM, Jack wrote:
>>>> On 12/5/2016 12:29 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I have had both bench top and now the floor model, my previous was a
>>>>> Rockewll radial. I now have a Delta floor model and much prefer this
>>>>> over the bench top. While the floor model takes up floor space, the
>>>>> bench top either uses up table top space or floor space if on a stand.
>>>>
>>>> The bench top doesn't take up floor space if it sits on to of a cabinet
>>>> where no cabinet existed when the floor model was there. I just have
>>>> never found value to the floor model which I've had for 40 years. I at
>>>> the end of my woodworking career, so won't be replacing what has worked
>>>> for all these years, just pointing out what my view is on the subject.
>>>>
>>>>> The Rockwell had 4 belt speeds, I am clueless how many the Delta has
>>>>> but
>>>>> 12+. While these speeds pretty much handle what I want changing is a
>>>>> PIA, w belts to change and sometimes the belts have to come off to
>>>>> trade
>>>>> height positions, so I simply do not change speeds as often as I would
>>>>> like. About 8 years ago I used the Powermatic VS DP, IIRC it had a
>>>>> reeves drive and was shockingly noisy. IIRC they have change this on
>>>>> the most recent model.
>>>>
>>>> I rarely, very rarely change speeds and I've drilled holes in about
>>>> everything imaginable, but 95% wood. I bet I would get in more trouble
>>>> if I had the NOVA with infinite speeds available at my fingertips.
>>>>
>>>>>> Any how, this looks nice, not needed much but I would trade my
>>>>>> King-Seely for this sucker, but I bet it's life is measured in years
>>>>>> rather than decades:-) For me, unless you have a specific need, or
>>>>>> have
>>>>>> an oil well in your back yard, you would be better off spending the
>>>>>> extra cash on a segmented, spiral cutter head for your planer and or
>>>>>> jointer.
>>>>
>>>>> I have read a few times recently the segmented spiral head cutters do
>>>>> not leave as smooth of fresh surface as a non-segmented spiral cutter.
>>>>> There is always a bubble to be popped. ;~(
>>>>
>>>> Mine leaves super smooth cuts in anything, regardless of knots or grain
>>>> direction. I call BS to those saying this, and I don't even have a
>>>> high
>>>> end machine. I suspect whomever said this is out to lunch, and has his
>>>> head stuck far up a book somewhere. Just ain't so in real life.
> I was talking about the quality of finish left by a segmented spiral
> cutter. :~)
So was I. I call BS to those saying the finish left by a segmented
spiral cutters leave a less smooth finish than a non segmented cutter.
It just ain't so in real life, if anything, it's exactly the opposite.
--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com
On 12/8/2016 7:37 PM, krw wrote:
> On Thu, 8 Dec 2016 09:23:38 -0500, Jack <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> On 12/7/2016 2:39 PM, krw wrote:
>>> On Wed, 7 Dec 2016 13:11:18 -0500, Jack <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> On 12/6/2016 9:18 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>>> On 12/6/2016 3:23 PM, Jack wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>>> To be fair, nothing prevents you from building a "nice cabinet full
>>>>>>> of tools and stuff" that lives under the drill press table. It could
>>>>>>> even be on casters so you can slide it in (leave a hollow in the back
>>>>>>> and bottom for the drill press post/stand)
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Nothing other than a 3" steel pipe going thru the middle of the cabinet.
>>>>
>>>>> Jeez my 3" pipe is at the back of my DP table, yours goes through the
>>>>> middle of the table???
>>>>
>>>> Jeez if I built a cabinet around my drill press most likely the pipe
>>>> would be centered in the cabinet.
>>>
>>> Why? Like Leon, I'd put the post at the rear (unless the cabinet was
>>> much deeper than the DP). There is no reason to spin the head around
>>> and drill in the rear of the cabinet.
>>
>> Yes the post is in the rear dumb ass. If I built a cabinet around it,
>> the post would be centered right to left, not front to back in the cabinet.
>
> Well that's obvious. Most people are smart enough to save words for
> something more meaningful.
>
Exactly!
--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com
On 12/9/2016 9:33 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>>> Why? Like Leon, I'd put the post at the rear (unless the cabinet was
>>>>> much deeper than the DP). There is no reason to spin the head around
>>>>> and drill in the rear of the cabinet.
>>>>
>>>> Yes the post is in the rear dumb ass. If I built a cabinet around it,
>>>> the post would be centered right to left, not front to back in the cabinet.
>>>
>>> Well that's obvious. Most people are smart enough to save words for
>>> something more meaningful.
>>>
>> Exactly!
> ..and yet you used 274 words to explain to me how you would build a cabinet
> for an imaginary bench top drill press and how you don't really care about
> floor space after originally saying "the floor model takes up valuable floor
> space."
> You sure could have saved some words there.
I'm not the one worried about running out of words. And I didn't ask
anyone about how to build a cabinet around my drill press. The dumb ass
pontificates about the post being in the back of the drill press (DUH)
so I have to "waste words" explaining to the dumb ass that the post is
centered left to right, not front to back (another DUH) then the idiot
chastises me for explaining it to him. He is a simpleton, plain and simple.
As for you wasting your time counting my words, I already "wasted words"
explaining my thoughts were not for the geniuses in this group to
explain to me what I needed to do, but to give my opinions on what I
would look for in a drill press based on my considerable experience.
I have not a problem with people making suggestions I didn't ask for,
since it provides a platform for everyone to learn.
I gave reasons for my opinions, such as I rarely to never had a need for
a floor model drill press, and a bench top could sit on top of a useful
cabinet, things a newbie might want to consider.
You of course wasted words explaining to me some nonsense about wasting
space building a cabinet around a drill press. Sure hope you don't run
out of words because of that wasted effort.
--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com
On Tue, 6 Dec 2016 20:18:24 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>On 12/6/2016 3:23 PM, Jack wrote:
>> On 12/5/2016 11:37 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
>>> Jack <[email protected]> writes:
>>>
>>>> The two things I don't like about my DP is raising and lowering the
>>>> table. I'd like that to be electric, or on a ratcheting gear type
>>>> device. The other is I would prefer a bench top rather than floor
>>>> model. I never really needed the DP to drill into the end of a 4' board,
>>>> and when I do, I use other methods. The floor model takes up valuable
>>>> space, I would prefer to have my DP sit on top of a nice cabinet full of
>>>> tools and stuff.
>>>
>>> To be fair, nothing prevents you from building a "nice cabinet full
>>> of tools and stuff" that lives under the drill press table. It could
>>> even be on casters so you can slide it in (leave a hollow in the back
>>> and bottom for the drill press post/stand)
>>
>> Nothing other than a 3" steel pipe going thru the middle of the cabinet.
>>
>
>
>
>Jeez my 3" pipe is at the back of my DP table, yours goes through the
>middle of the table???
Maybe his DP only has an 8" swing. ;-)
On 12/1/2016 7:14 AM, notbob wrote:
> On 2016-12-01, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>
>> On 11/30/2016 8:43 PM, notbob wrote:
>
>>> On 2016-12-01, John McCoy <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>>> you there's a problem with what you're doing.
>
>>> Really? That's yer answer? Boy, have I been edified or what!? ;)
>
>> It is telling you that electronic speed control is better than not.
>
> Yahbut! ....according to John, you only need one speed ....as long as
> you know what you are doing. ;)
>
> nb
>
Well John is right if a few speeds are giving what he considers
acceptable results.
Others may be more picky and or don't relish switching belts often. Put
me in that camp.
On 11/30/2016 2:18 PM, John McCoy wrote:
> "G. Ross" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> I love my Nova electronic lathe, but admit all those push buttons are
>> daunting to my age and eyes.
>
> I can see the value of electronic speed control on a
> lathe. Not sure I really see it as being useful on
> a drill press - even for metal working, close is good
> enough, and if it bogs down that's telling you something,
> and "more power" probably isn't the right answer.
>
> John
>
Well possibly, if you do not often use a DP much, close is good enough,
Forster bits do like to be spun at particular speeds and while precise
is not necessary the speed control dial beats the dickens out of having
to move belts around, and if you can dial the correct speed, why not.
Bogging down on a DP with belt drive can equally mean you have chosen
the wrong speed/belt combination for a particular soft or hard wood
regardless of feed rate.
There is a big difference in resistance from a 35mm Forstner bit
drilling into plywood, MDF, poplar and or white oak, to name a few.
On 12/5/2016 8:49 AM, Jack wrote:
> On 12/2/2016 10:27 AM, John McGaw wrote:
>
>> A new kind of drill press but one which must be paid for with the old
>> kind of money. I've been getting by with a refurbished Delta bought
>> from their clearance center in Pigeon Forge. Sure, it is noisy and the
>> speed is a bitch to change and the depth stop is a PITA and the quill
>> has a bit of wobble when fully extended but I figure that it has cost me
>> about $10 per year to own since 1998. If somebody gives me a lottery
>> ticket and it happens to hit the big jackpot maybe I'll look at the new
>> type (if I'm not too old to use it).
>
> My drill press is a King-Seely and I've been using it for 40 years in my
> cabinet shop, and it was born 20 years before that. I rarely ever change
> speeds unless doing something highly unusual, like using a fly cutter,
> something I've used maybe 4 times in 40 years, and at least one of those
> I didn't bother changing speeds. I've never once longed for a speed
> control like this, and to me it's mind boggling that one can bog down a
> drill press, power has never once been an issue for me. I would like
> the depth control thing-ee. (I'd like the speed thing to, but that
> doesn't excite me as much as the depth control)
>
> The two things I don't like about my DP is raising and lowering the
> table. I'd like that to be electric, or on a ratcheting gear type
> device. The other is I would prefer a bench top rather than floor
> model. I never really needed the DP to drill into the end of a 4' board,
> and when I do, I use other methods. The floor model takes up valuable
> space, I would prefer to have my DP sit on top of a nice cabinet full of
> tools and stuff.
The crank on my Delta beets the pants off of a manual adjust but I would
prefer a better locking set up, tightening a lever on the opposite side
is some what of a PIA but necessary. My old rockwell used a double
pinch insert that would go from loose to tight in about 1/2 turn, my
Delta requires about 1.5 turns.
I have had both bench top and now the floor model, my previous was a
Rockewll radial. I now have a Delta floor model and much prefer this
over the bench top. While the floor model takes up floor space, the
bench top either uses up table top space or floor space if on a stand.
The Rockwell had 4 belt speeds, I am clueless how many the Delta has but
12+. While these speeds pretty much handle what I want changing is a
PIA, w belts to change and sometimes the belts have to come off to trade
height positions, so I simply do not change speeds as often as I would
like. About 8 years ago I used the Powermatic VS DP, IIRC it had a
reeves drive and was shockingly noisy. IIRC they have change this on
the most recent model.
I find that I change speeds on the Delta way more often than I did on
the old Rockwell and simply because the desired speeds are closer to
required but not because of convenience.
>
> Any how, this looks nice, not needed much but I would trade my
> King-Seely for this sucker, but I bet it's life is measured in years
> rather than decades:-) For me, unless you have a specific need, or have
> an oil well in your back yard, you would be better off spending the
> extra cash on a segmented, spiral cutter head for your planer and or
> jointer.
>
I have read a few times recently the segmented spiral head cutters do
not leave as smooth of fresh surface as a non-segmented spiral cutter.
There is always a bubble to be popped. ;~(
On 12/5/2016 10:37 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
> Jack <[email protected]> writes:
>
>> The two things I don't like about my DP is raising and lowering the
>> table. I'd like that to be electric, or on a ratcheting gear type
>> device. The other is I would prefer a bench top rather than floor
>> model. I never really needed the DP to drill into the end of a 4' board,
>> and when I do, I use other methods. The floor model takes up valuable
>> space, I would prefer to have my DP sit on top of a nice cabinet full of
>> tools and stuff.
>
> To be fair, nothing prevents you from building a "nice cabinet full
> of tools and stuff" that lives under the drill press table. It could
> even be on casters so you can slide it in (leave a hollow in the back
> and bottom for the drill press post/stand).
>
Great Idea and the plan is in motion. ;~)