I am close to finishing my windows. My wife told me that when I finish with
the windows, she will buy me a planer.
I look back on all stationary tools I used (since most were bought new).
Used all of it, but notice the bandsaw and drill press weren't used much.
Wonder if getting a planer would be best investment of all, since then I
would be able to buy rough lumber (cheaper)? I don't have a jointer.
Chuck
Chuck wrote: My wife told me that when I finish with
the windows, she will buy me a planer.
I look back on all stationary tools I used (since most were bought
new).
Used all of it, but notice the bandsaw and drill press weren't used
much.
Wonder if getting a planer would be best investment of all, since then
I
would be able to buy rough lumber (cheaper)? I don't have a jointer.
Don't kid yourself, or your wife. You'll want both. Tom
>If I had to get rid of alll stationary tools save saw and one other the
> "one other" would be the drum sander.
That last sentence is a real conversation starter. I thought about it
a while as I recently contemplated a temporary move to San Francisco.
Having a 20x30' shop was out of the question, so I had to think small.
I was getting around to thinking small good workbench, hand planes, and
my beloved bosch jig saw with a broom and dust pan to do dust
collection. :-)
Bob
Michael Campbell wrote:
> "CW" <[email protected]> writes:
>
> > Wouldn't want to live without my planer, Once you have worked with
> > stock that is TRULY flat and smooth, you won't go back. I don't have
> > a jointer either. Doubt I ever will. No need.
>
> How do you get the FIRST side flat? Planers only make sides parallel,
> no? You joint by hand?
>
> --
> Michael Campbell
scrub plane.
I don't know, but I keep reading threads like this and I question how
you can get parallel surfaces from using only a planer without first
flattening one side of a board, whether by using a jointer or face
jointing the board with hand planes.
Wood moves. S4S stock not freshly jointed and planed at the supplier
and promptly planed to thickness at home will have cupping or twisting
to some extent, and must be surfaced flat if you want to plane to a
reduced thickness and have the faces parallel, IMHO. I suppose if you
are only talking about 4 or 5 board feet of stock, you can fiddle-fart
around with the techniques described using only a planer, but I simply
can't imagine preparing 20 bd ft of stock or more that way. Planers go
hand in hand with jointers, or with a scrub plane, jack plane and
smoother. My first jointer was 6", and I had three 8" wide rough 4/4
figured maple I wanted to make into a panel and couldn't see ripping it
in half to face joint, and thus did it by hand, about 10 bd ft, and
believe me that was a bit of a workout.
Mutt
Beggin' your pardon, but two planes that don't intersect are indeed
parallel. First plane is the top face of the board, the second is the
bottom face of the board. If one face of the board is skewed, extended
out enough distance it will intersect with the other face. I don't
understand your comment at all.
Mutt.
Oh, believe me, these techniques are very valid and do work, but to my
taste it's just too much fiddling around for "normal" stock prep. when
otherwise I'd just give it a few passes on the jointer and plane away.
I've got a sled with shims that I have used to surface one side of
really wide (+12") stock on special occasions, and it works really
well. I guess I'm just too linear minded and like to start off with
square and parallel stock....
Mutt
Pig wrote:
> Beggin' your pardon, but two planes that don't intersect are indeed
> parallel. First plane is the top face of the board, the second is the
> bottom face of the board. If one face of the board is skewed, extended
> out enough distance it will intersect with the other face. I don't
> understand your comment at all.
>
> Mutt.
also parallel are nested cylinders. and the two faces of cupped or
twisted lumber. a thicknesser won't necessarily take care of either of
those conditions.
Well you have to start with one or the other (unless you have enough cash).
I got my jointer first but my planer followed closely after. My father had
a planer for years with no jointer, so you have to decide. You will buy one
and then realize that the other is necessary to what you want to do. I
personally would buy the jointer and then the planer but everyone is
different.
Lars
"JGS" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi Chuck,
> If you plan on buying rough lumber you pretty much need a jointer and a
> planer
> unless you have more time than you know what to do with. And you will have
> to
> mill a lot of rough lumber to pay for these machines.
> I have both and would not be without them as a source of good quality
> dimensioned lumber is not handy and I often make items that use
> non-standard
> thicknesses. As I make a fair number of tables/panels I would get a
> jointer if
> I were to have just one machine. My 2 cents. Cheers, JG
>
> CNT wrote:
>
>> I am close to finishing my windows. My wife told me that when I finish
>> with
>> the windows, she will buy me a planer.
>>
>> I look back on all stationary tools I used (since most were bought new).
>> Used all of it, but notice the bandsaw and drill press weren't used much.
>> Wonder if getting a planer would be best investment of all, since then I
>> would be able to buy rough lumber (cheaper)? I don't have a jointer.
>>
>> Chuck
>
Wow, thanks for the replies! Without owning a jointer, I just don't see
myself would use it much? Also, since I plan to start buying lumber from
Kettle Moriane Hardwares (Hartford, WI), they have a huge planer. I
bought few boards from them before and all they do is pull out the stock
I want, throw it in their planer, then it's done (only 50 cents per
pass). But no jointer?
I just thought instead of having them planer for me, I would do it myself
at home? BTW, I have a 8' JointAbility (again, not use much lately).
I did thought about a jointer some time ago (when I was dreaming of
having a woodshop). With all the threads about 6" vs. 8", I decided on
JET 8" jointer. Now, that will be lot of money, plus will need a
different electrical plug (higher voltage).
I will have to think about it now. Maybe I will still let my wife buy me
a planer, maybe the DeWalt 13"?
Chuck
Hi Chuck,
If you plan on buying rough lumber you pretty much need a jointer and a planer
unless you have more time than you know what to do with. And you will have to
mill a lot of rough lumber to pay for these machines.
I have both and would not be without them as a source of good quality
dimensioned lumber is not handy and I often make items that use non-standard
thicknesses. As I make a fair number of tables/panels I would get a jointer if
I were to have just one machine. My 2 cents. Cheers, JG
CNT wrote:
> I am close to finishing my windows. My wife told me that when I finish with
> the windows, she will buy me a planer.
>
> I look back on all stationary tools I used (since most were bought new).
> Used all of it, but notice the bandsaw and drill press weren't used much.
> Wonder if getting a planer would be best investment of all, since then I
> would be able to buy rough lumber (cheaper)? I don't have a jointer.
>
> Chuck
"Pig" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I don't know, but I keep reading threads like this and I question how
> you can get parallel surfaces from using only a planer without first
> flattening one side of a board, whether by using a jointer or face
> jointing the board with hand planes.
>
> Wood moves. S4S stock not freshly jointed and planed at the supplier
> and promptly planed to thickness at home will have cupping or twisting
> to some extent, and must be surfaced flat if you want to plane to a
> reduced thickness and have the faces parallel, IMHO. I suppose if you
> are only talking about 4 or 5 board feet of stock, you can fiddle-fart
> around with the techniques described using only a planer, but I simply
> can't imagine preparing 20 bd ft of stock or more that way. Planers go
> hand in hand with jointers, or with a scrub plane, jack plane and
> smoother. My first jointer was 6", and I had three 8" wide rough 4/4
> figured maple I wanted to make into a panel and couldn't see ripping it
> in half to face joint, and thus did it by hand, about 10 bd ft, and
> believe me that was a bit of a workout.
>
Well, think about it. Assume worst condition - wind (long "i"), which can
be repaired by knocking down the high corners by a jointer or hand plane, or
by hand feeding a planer, holding the stock flat to the table as it enters
and leaves, the interior not even touching. Pretty much as on a jointer.
Second, crown, which can be done by knocking the center down by hand, or, as
others have mentioned, by setting your planer so thin that it barely feeds,
if, you have an iron planer with a serrated infeed roller, or so it won't
feed at all on a lunchbox with rubber rollers, and taking the first pass or
two by hand..
You can also make a sled for the absolute worst case, shim and feed. to take
care of anything.
With thin wood, you use grooves or other methods in the legs/frames or
rabbet a fixed distance from the flat face to take care of cup and twist
which can still be in the board.
You must also realize that the wood on most furniture made before machinery
was not made with parallel sides, often with just scrub on the back of the
board where it wasn't seen. The only important fit was on the front, and
construction was planned to put the best face forward.
"Michael Campbell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "CW" <[email protected]> writes:
>
>> "Michael Campbell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>> > "CW" <[email protected]> writes:
>> >
>> > > Wouldn't want to live without my planer, Once you have worked with
>> > > stock that is TRULY flat and smooth, you won't go back. I don't have
>> > > a jointer either. Doubt I ever will. No need.
>> >
>> > How do you get the FIRST side flat? Planers only make sides parallel,
>> > no? You joint by hand?
>
>> Yes, I joint by hand. It is so fast and easy, I never saw the need for a
>> jointer. If going through a planer, the stock need only be flat enough so
>> it
>> doesn't rock. If edge gluing, it takes about 2 minutes to prepare a
>> joint.
>
>
> Good deal. I have some hand planes, + a (powered) planer. But no
> powered jointer. I'm a beginning hobbyist, so wanted to give it a go
> by hand before I tried trading cash for skill. Thanks for the
> encouragement. =)
>
Good scrub and jack will run you two thirds the price of a jointer, and
still won't do a credible job on the edge. So where's the tradeoff?
Scrub and jointer.
On Thu, 28 Jul 2005 04:00:33 -0000, CNT <[email protected]> wrote:
>Wonder if getting a planer would be best investment of all,
I hardly use mine, but when I do I hammer it for a couple of days solid
and save myself a fortune by buying rough timber rather than
commercially planed. It's an excellent investment.
I'm still surprised just how useful my bandsaw was.
I use a jack for edges all the time. Works great. Have use a #4 for the same
purpose with fine results. Odd how woodworkers seem to thing planes have to
be the size of aircraft carriers when metal workers flatten comparativley
huge surfaces with scrapers. Good jack and scrub (converted #4) less than
$100.00 off ebay.
"George" <George@least> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> Good scrub and jack will run you two thirds the price of a jointer, and
> still won't do a credible job on the edge. So where's the tradeoff?
>
> Scrub and jointer.
>
>
Find a dictionary and look up the word "parallel" then try again.
"Pig" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I don't know, but I keep reading threads like this and I question how
> you can get parallel surfaces from using only a planer without first
> flattening one side of a board, whether by using a jointer or face
> jointing the board with hand planes.
>
> Wood moves. S4S stock not freshly jointed and planed at the supplier
> and promptly planed to thickness at home will have cupping or twisting
> to some extent, and must be surfaced flat if you want to plane to a
> reduced thickness and have the faces parallel, IMHO. I suppose if you
> are only talking about 4 or 5 board feet of stock, you can fiddle-fart
> around with the techniques described using only a planer, but I simply
> can't imagine preparing 20 bd ft of stock or more that way. Planers go
> hand in hand with jointers, or with a scrub plane, jack plane and
> smoother. My first jointer was 6", and I had three 8" wide rough 4/4
> figured maple I wanted to make into a panel and couldn't see ripping it
> in half to face joint, and thus did it by hand, about 10 bd ft, and
> believe me that was a bit of a workout.
>
> Mutt
>
dadiOH wrote:
> CNT wrote:
>=20
>>I am close to finishing my windows. My wife told me that when I
>>finish with the windows, she will buy me a planer.
>>
>>I look back on all stationary tools I used (since most were bought
>>new). Used all of it, but notice the bandsaw and drill press weren't
>>used much. Wonder if getting a planer would be best investment of
>>all, since then I would be able to buy rough lumber (cheaper)? I
>>don't have a jointer.
>=20
>=20
> Truly, a conundrum. If I were in your position (I was) I'd be tempted
> to get a drum sander ala Performax (not Delta).
>=20
> While not as fast as a planer it *can* be used with coarse grit to dres=
s
> rough lumber effectively. It does a credible job of face joining too.
> I mostly use my joiner (don't have a planer) for doing edges but those
> can also be done on a router table.
>=20
> If I had to get rid of alll stationary tools save saw and one other the=
> "one other" would be the drum sander.
>=20
> --
> dadiOH
> ____________________________
>=20
> dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
> ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
> LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
> Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
>=20
>=20
I have to agree. I get along with a drum sander and a planer. A jointer=20
would be nice -- but currently no room. I use the drum sander and fence=20
as a jointer -- 60 grit works marvels at flattening most boards. :-)=20
Used in combination with a Taiwanese style Jack plane and smoothing=20
plane (and sometimes a Stanley smoother) most boards can be brought into =
shape -- eventually. It's slower than a jointer -- but results are just=20
as good.
I started with a table saw, then added a Band saw, a (good) router and a =
drum sander, a planer and a scroll saw.
Heaviest use goes to the table saw, followed by the drum sander followed =
by the router. However, as I have added these tools it has become easier =
to do each project.
I got this Drum Sander kit kit and the top and built the rest -- you can =
see it on the web site in the sig line...
http://nicks.ca/Toolkits.html#sandplan
--=20
Will R.
Jewel Boxes and Wood Art
http://woodwork.pmccl.com
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those=20
who have not got it.=94 George Bernard Shaw
Wouldn't want to live without my planer, Once you have worked with stock
that is TRULY flat and smooth, you won't go back. I don't have a jointer
either. Doubt I ever will. No need.
"CNT" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am close to finishing my windows. My wife told me that when I finish
with
> the windows, she will buy me a planer.
>
> I look back on all stationary tools I used (since most were bought new).
> Used all of it, but notice the bandsaw and drill press weren't used much.
> Wonder if getting a planer would be best investment of all, since then I
> would be able to buy rough lumber (cheaper)? I don't have a jointer.
>
> Chuck
>
> Can you buy the half inch or 3/8" stock? Sure, but you WILL pay for it
> and probably have to look around to find it.
Boy, I can ditto that sentiment. I found myself out of 1/2 in stock one
weekend and found out the hard way what it costs for 1/2 drawer stock. Next
time it happened, I resawed a piece of clear 2x4 and ran it thru the planer.
Whole helluva lot cheaper than buying it.
Vic
"CNT" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> they have a huge planer. I
> bought few boards from them before and all they do is pull out the stock
> I want, throw it in their planer, then it's done (only 50 cents per
> pass). But no jointer?
Same here. My main supplier will put the boards throughthe big planer and
take it to size in one pass. Included inthe price.
Every time I think about getting a jointer, something else comes up that
just seems like more fun. Some day I'll have one, but I'm not in a rush.
Can't get by without my planer though. Good for cleanup after resaw. Good
for thing that you don't want to be 3/4" because that is the stock you have
on hand.
If I was cutting and air drying my own wood, the story would be different.
I'm not so I'll stick with planer first.
on 7/28/2005 3:57 PM Patriarch said the following:
> The nice thing about having your own is the ability to work your own
> finished pieces to the thickness you want for that part.
>
> Not everything should be +/- 3/4" thick.
Exactly my reason for buying a planer. Thinking of stock for drawer
sides, etc. Essentially, anything other that 3/4" or 4/4" boards.
Recycling some pine shelves. Rip to width, resaw, and then clean them
up and thickness/clean them up with the planer.
While it's true that the price differential - not even considering the
availability of rough wood - between surfaced boards and rough may not
be all that great, the planer is just what you need when you want some
drawer stock at ½" or less for that nightstand or jewelry box you're making.
Can you buy the half inch or 3/8" stock? Sure, but you WILL pay for it
and probably have to look around to find it.
CNT <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> I am close to finishing my windows. My wife told me that when I finish
> with the windows, she will buy me a planer.
>
> I look back on all stationary tools I used (since most were bought
> new). Used all of it, but notice the bandsaw and drill press weren't
> used much. Wonder if getting a planer would be best investment of all,
> since then I would be able to buy rough lumber (cheaper)? I don't have
> a jointer.
>
> Chuck
Check on actual sources of rough lumber for the cost differences. In my
area, rough lumber is in limited availability, and not priced significantly
lower, unless I am willing & able to deal with it green. All of my green
stock is now fuel for the lathe, so ...
S3S from a good, volume supplier is SO much easier to deal with that the
jointer and planer have far less work to do. That's good, because there
are parts of the process I enjoy a lot more than initial stock prep.
YMMV
Patriarch
CNT <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
<snip>
> I just thought instead of having them planer for me, I would do it
> myself at home? BTW, I have a 8' JointAbility (again, not use much
> lately).
>
> I will have to think about it now. Maybe I will still let my wife buy
> me a planer, maybe the DeWalt 13"?
>
> Chuck
The nice thing about having your own is the ability to work your own
finished pieces to the thickness you want for that part.
Not everything should be +/- 3/4" thick.
Patriarch
Andy Dingley <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On Thu, 28 Jul 2005 15:45:39 -0500, Patriarch
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Check on actual sources of rough lumber for the cost differences.
>
> With the emphasis on sources, not just grades..
>
> Rough vs. planed is a tiny saving, if I buy them both from the shiny,
> tidy retail shop. But if I can deal with it rough, then I can buy from
> the tree hippies instead, who only cost a quarter as much and have nicer
> timber.
>
My tree hippies are at least a 100 mile round trip. Or more. While we're
not paying Euro prices for fuel yet, it's still a ways, for my meager
volume. The deal has to be GOOD.
The bigger the volume, the better the cost savings. As usual.
Patriarch
CNT wrote:
> I am close to finishing my windows. My wife told me that when I
> finish with the windows, she will buy me a planer.
>
> I look back on all stationary tools I used (since most were bought
> new). Used all of it, but notice the bandsaw and drill press weren't
> used much. Wonder if getting a planer would be best investment of
> all, since then I would be able to buy rough lumber (cheaper)? I
> don't have a jointer.
Truly, a conundrum. If I were in your position (I was) I'd be tempted
to get a drum sander ala Performax (not Delta).
While not as fast as a planer it *can* be used with coarse grit to dress
rough lumber effectively. It does a credible job of face joining too.
I mostly use my joiner (don't have a planer) for doing edges but those
can also be done on a router table.
If I had to get rid of alll stationary tools save saw and one other the
"one other" would be the drum sander.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
"CNT" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am close to finishing my windows. My wife told me that when I finish
with
> the windows, she will buy me a planer.
>
> I look back on all stationary tools I used (since most were bought new).
> Used all of it, but notice the bandsaw and drill press weren't used much.
> Wonder if getting a planer would be best investment of all, since then I
> would be able to buy rough lumber (cheaper)? I don't have a jointer.
>
The planer is the only tool that will make both sides parallel. Jointing can
be done manually or sometimes with a router. I bought the planer first and
used the router for edge jointing. Next purchase was the jointer.
Vic
Perhaps because they cost more than a jointer and a planer put together?
Steve
"Juergen Hannappel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> CNT <[email protected]> writes:
>
>
> [...]
>
> > I did thought about a jointer some time ago (when I was dreaming of
> > having a woodshop). With all the threads about 6" vs. 8", I decided on
> > JET 8" jointer. Now, that will be lot of money, plus will need a
> > different electrical plug (higher voltage).
> >
> > I will have to think about it now. Maybe I will still let my wife buy me
> > a planer, maybe the DeWalt 13"?
>
> Why not get an european style jointer/planer combination machine?
> --
> Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
> mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
> Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
> CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23
"Michael Campbell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "CW" <[email protected]> writes:
>
>> Wouldn't want to live without my planer, Once you have worked with
>> stock that is TRULY flat and smooth, you won't go back. I don't have
>> a jointer either. Doubt I ever will. No need.
>
> How do you get the FIRST side flat? Planers only make sides parallel,
> no? You joint by hand?
>
Very carefully! I've done a fair amount of rough lumber w/my DW733(?)(The
older DW planer) before I had a jointer. If it has any cupping, put convex
side up, VERY light cuts so the feed doesn't compress the cupping until you
have it flat enough to turn over & work other side. Won't work if the wood
is too twisty/bowed, but then again, the jointer isn't going to cure serious
problems like that either.
--
Nahmie
The greatest headaches are those we cause ourselves.
On Thu, 28 Jul 2005 16:46:56 -0000, CNT <[email protected]> wrote:
>Wow, thanks for the replies! Without owning a jointer, I just don't see
>myself would use it much? Also, since I plan to start buying lumber from
>Kettle Moriane Hardwares (Hartford, WI), they have a huge planer. I
>bought few boards from them before and all they do is pull out the stock
>I want, throw it in their planer, then it's done (only 50 cents per
>pass). But no jointer?
Jointer is good for (and this may be an incomplete list)
-flattening bowed/cupped/twisted stock
-cleaning up ripped edges prior to glue up
-edge jointing two pieces at one go to insure a perfect fit on glued
up panels
-rabbeting the edges of panels (you can do this with a router or dado
stack as well, of course)
For my buck, the flattening ability is worth it alone- I don't know if
you've ever had stock warp after sawing or milling it, but I have, and
it's like gettting punched in the belly if you don't have a way to get
it back to where it needs to be. You can still use that wood for
*something*, but I've had to abandon projects because the stock I had
warped while working on them.
I've got a feeling it'd be used heavily, if you end up getting one-
though your projects will obviously differ from mine.
>I just thought instead of having them planer for me, I would do it myself
>at home? BTW, I have a 8' JointAbility (again, not use much lately).
FWIW, 50 cents a pass is a steal, unless they're intentionally taking
a whole lot of extra passes just to charge extra. Lots of places
charge by the hour, and it ends up costing an arm and a leg.
>I will have to think about it now. Maybe I will still let my wife buy me
>a planer, maybe the DeWalt 13"?
Now that's a different story- of course you should let your wife buy
you any tool that she wants! Here I thought you had to pay for it
yerself!
Yes, I joint by hand. It is so fast and easy, I never saw the need for a
jointer. If going through a planer, the stock need only be flat enough so it
doesn't rock. If edge gluing, it takes about 2 minutes to prepare a joint.
"Michael Campbell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "CW" <[email protected]> writes:
>
> > Wouldn't want to live without my planer, Once you have worked with
> > stock that is TRULY flat and smooth, you won't go back. I don't have
> > a jointer either. Doubt I ever will. No need.
>
> How do you get the FIRST side flat? Planers only make sides parallel,
> no? You joint by hand?
>
> --
> Michael Campbell
On Thu, 28 Jul 2005 15:45:39 -0500, Patriarch
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Check on actual sources of rough lumber for the cost differences.
With the emphasis on sources, not just grades..
Rough vs. planed is a tiny saving, if I buy them both from the shiny,
tidy retail shop. But if I can deal with it rough, then I can buy from
the tree hippies instead, who only cost a quarter as much and have nicer
timber.
Helps if you quote what you are replying to.
"Pig" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Beggin' your pardon, but two planes that don't intersect are indeed
> parallel. First plane is the top face of the board, the second is the
> bottom face of the board. If one face of the board is skewed, extended
> out enough distance it will intersect with the other face. I don't
> understand your comment at all.
>
> Mutt.
>
Juergen Hannappel wrote:
> WillR <[email protected]> writes:
>=20
>=20
> [...]
>=20
>=20
>>Used in combination with a Taiwanese style Jack plane and smoothing
>=20
>=20
> That is one with the big cross pin for an extra grip trhrough the
> wooden body? How do you like that compared to other handplane styles?
>=20
Actually these are the planes.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=3D1&p=3D46322&cat=3D1,41182,463=
34
You may have been thinking of these... The Hink Kong Style. I will buy=20
one eventually.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=3D1&p=3D46320&cat=3D1,41182,463=
34
The wooden block planes are easy to adjust and simple to use. (pull them)=
Saw them demonstrated at Lee Valley, bought one, then bought two more.
--=20
Will R.
Jewel Boxes and Wood Art
http://woodwork.pmccl.com
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those=20
who have not got it.=94 George Bernard Shaw
On 28 Jul 2005 07:17:55 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>>If I had to get rid of alll stationary tools save saw and one other the
>> "one other" would be the drum sander.
I think I'd keep the lathe- second choice would be the router table.
I figure the rest of it can be done with hand tools almost as easily.
>That last sentence is a real conversation starter. I thought about it
>a while as I recently contemplated a temporary move to San Francisco.
>Having a 20x30' shop was out of the question, so I had to think small.
>I was getting around to thinking small good workbench, hand planes, and
>my beloved bosch jig saw with a broom and dust pan to do dust
>collection. :-)
>
>Bob
On Thu, 28 Jul 2005 04:00:33 -0000, CNT <[email protected]> wrote:
>I am close to finishing my windows. My wife told me that when I finish with
>the windows, she will buy me a planer.
>
>I look back on all stationary tools I used (since most were bought new).
>Used all of it, but notice the bandsaw and drill press weren't used much.
>Wonder if getting a planer would be best investment of all, since then I
>would be able to buy rough lumber (cheaper)? I don't have a jointer.
Before I even get into it, I'll admit that I have a planer, but no
jointer. With that out of the way...
I'd be willing to bet you'd get more good use out of a jointer- The
two tools obviously do different things, but a jointer does more of
those different things. Aside from flattening stock, it can be used
to cut rabbets, and it works with both edge and face grain with most
stock. You *can* thickness with a jointer, but there's no guarantee
that the two faces will be parallel.
The planer, on the other hand, only surfaces the wood and brings it
down to required thickness- if it is already warped, you need to have
an 80% flat surface, which means jointer or handplane in a lot of
cases. But unlike the jointer, the two faces are parallel.
They're really a tandem team, but the jointer is more useful (IMO)
right out of the box- I have saved some money by having the planer by
buying rough stock, but that stock has to be in pretty good shape to
make the planer useful- otherwise it ends up being a lot of work, and
it's very possible that the money you saved by buying rough wood is
offset by the time you spend doing prep.
"CW" <[email protected]> writes:
> Wouldn't want to live without my planer, Once you have worked with
> stock that is TRULY flat and smooth, you won't go back. I don't have
> a jointer either. Doubt I ever will. No need.
How do you get the FIRST side flat? Planers only make sides parallel,
no? You joint by hand?
--
Michael Campbell
"CW" <[email protected]> writes:
> "Michael Campbell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > "CW" <[email protected]> writes:
> >
> > > Wouldn't want to live without my planer, Once you have worked with
> > > stock that is TRULY flat and smooth, you won't go back. I don't have
> > > a jointer either. Doubt I ever will. No need.
> >
> > How do you get the FIRST side flat? Planers only make sides parallel,
> > no? You joint by hand?
> Yes, I joint by hand. It is so fast and easy, I never saw the need for a
> jointer. If going through a planer, the stock need only be flat enough so it
> doesn't rock. If edge gluing, it takes about 2 minutes to prepare a joint.
Good deal. I have some hand planes, + a (powered) planer. But no
powered jointer. I'm a beginning hobbyist, so wanted to give it a go
by hand before I tried trading cash for skill. Thanks for the
encouragement. =)
--
Michael Campbell
My planer smooths slabs after resawing on the BS. Jointer I bought
gathers sawdust unused.
On Thu, 28 Jul 2005 04:19:06 -0500, Prometheus
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Thu, 28 Jul 2005 04:00:33 -0000, CNT <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>I am close to finishing my windows. My wife told me that when I finish with
>>the windows, she will buy me a planer.
>>
>>I look back on all stationary tools I used (since most were bought new).
>>Used all of it, but notice the bandsaw and drill press weren't used much.
>>Wonder if getting a planer would be best investment of all, since then I
>>would be able to buy rough lumber (cheaper)? I don't have a jointer.
>
>Before I even get into it, I'll admit that I have a planer, but no
>jointer. With that out of the way...
>
>I'd be willing to bet you'd get more good use out of a jointer- The
>two tools obviously do different things, but a jointer does more of
>those different things. Aside from flattening stock, it can be used
>to cut rabbets, and it works with both edge and face grain with most
>stock. You *can* thickness with a jointer, but there's no guarantee
>that the two faces will be parallel.
>
>The planer, on the other hand, only surfaces the wood and brings it
>down to required thickness- if it is already warped, you need to have
>an 80% flat surface, which means jointer or handplane in a lot of
>cases. But unlike the jointer, the two faces are parallel.
>
>They're really a tandem team, but the jointer is more useful (IMO)
>right out of the box- I have saved some money by having the planer by
>buying rough stock, but that stock has to be in pretty good shape to
>make the planer useful- otherwise it ends up being a lot of work, and
>it's very possible that the money you saved by buying rough wood is
>offset by the time you spend doing prep.
>
WillR <[email protected]> writes:
[...]
> Used in combination with a Taiwanese style Jack plane and smoothing
That is one with the big cross pin for an extra grip trhrough the
wooden body? How do you like that compared to other handplane styles?
--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23
CNT <[email protected]> writes:
[...]
> I did thought about a jointer some time ago (when I was dreaming of
> having a woodshop). With all the threads about 6" vs. 8", I decided on
> JET 8" jointer. Now, that will be lot of money, plus will need a
> different electrical plug (higher voltage).
>
> I will have to think about it now. Maybe I will still let my wife buy me
> a planer, maybe the DeWalt 13"?
Why not get an european style jointer/planer combination machine?
--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23
WillR <[email protected]> writes:
[...]
> Actually these are the planes.
> http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=46322&cat=1,41182,46334
Also nice..
>
> You may have been thinking of these... The Hink Kong Style. I will buy
> one eventually.
> http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=46320&cat=1,41182,46334
Yes, they are the kind I thought of, albeit smaller than I had in
mind, you can get them up to jointer size. I have a hollow, a round
and a small spokeshave from that manufacturer, as well as a HSS brazed
to mild steel iron for my 1942 wooden jack plane ...
>
> The wooden block planes are easy to adjust and simple to use. (pull
> them)
> Saw them demonstrated at Lee Valley, bought one, then bought two more.
Thanks for the info, I also consider getting some of this kind...
--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23