take a 2x4 and try to make 2 equal 2x2's with a fence on one side.
After cutting I have 2 pieces of wood that look like the fence stoned
on cocaine...I know the bandsaw likes me just maybe messing with me
and enjoying a good laugh with the other tools in my shop. Seriously,
how can I stop this from happening?
Moyo
Don't listen to those suggestions. I had the same problem and thought I
needed better cool blocks. What I found out I needed was a blade
stabilizer. TWC (The Woodworkers Choice) sells such an item for around
$60-$65. This unit replaces the cool blocks on top and it has a small
grove that the blade rides in. Once it is installed to line up with the
blade, you move it forward about 1/8" putting a small arc in the blade
at the cutting point. At this point you use low tension blades and it
works like a scroll saw. I have cut 2x4's, part. board, plywood etc and
I'm glad I spent the $60 for mine. TWC also carries the low tension
blades. I cut a piece of 3/4" particle board into 2- 3/8's pieces using
my fence and never thought a thing of it.
TWC participles in the woodworking shows if they come to your area.
usually their show items are cheaper because of the show. Otherwise you
can reach them at 1-800-892-4866 or www.twc.com. This item is a bandsaw
blade stabilizer.
--
Woody
Check out my Web Page at:
http://community-1.webtv.net/WoodworkerJoe/WoodworkerJoesInfo
Where you will find:
******** How My Shop Works ******** 5-21-03
* * * Build a $20 DC Separator Can Lid. 1-14-03
* * * DC Relay Box Building Plans. 1-14-03
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* * * Woodworker Shop Signs. 2-8-03
"moyo" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> take a 2x4 and try to make 2 equal 2x2's with a fence on one side.
> After cutting I have 2 pieces of wood that look like the fence stoned
> on cocaine...I know the bandsaw likes me just maybe messing with me
> and enjoying a good laugh with the other tools in my shop. Seriously,
> how can I stop this from happening?
You need a good blade for resawing (properly tensioned) and a good tune up
on the saw. Setting the guides properly, getting the wheels co-planer, etc.
Get a good book on bandsaws and have at it. Duginski (sp?) is a good one.
Ed
Get this
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0806963980/qid=1069029203/sr=1-1/ref=sr_1_1/103-9103444-4115061?v=glance&s=books
Tune up your bandsaw and you will be surprised.
Preston
"moyo" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> take a 2x4 and try to make 2 equal 2x2's with a fence on one side.
> After cutting I have 2 pieces of wood that look like the fence stoned
> on cocaine...I know the bandsaw likes me just maybe messing with me
> and enjoying a good laugh with the other tools in my shop. Seriously,
> how can I stop this from happening?
>
> Moyo
moyo wrote:
> take a 2x4 and try to make 2 equal 2x2's with a fence on one side.
> After cutting I have 2 pieces of wood that look like the fence stoned
> on cocaine...I know the bandsaw likes me just maybe messing with me
> and enjoying a good laugh with the other tools in my shop. Seriously,
> how can I stop this from happening?
>
> Moyo
Like the others have written, it's probably just in need of proper
adjusting. I always use a piece of mdf clamped to the table instead of a
*real* fence so that I can adjust for the blade's drift. Although I've
tried various after market guide systems (Carter, etc.), I gone back to
the cool blocks that come with the Jet 14" saw. They work great when
properly adjusted. For most work, I just leave the 1/4" 4-tpi blade on
the saw for resawing, ripping, and general sawing. It leaves a finish
that is easily cleaned up with one pass through the jointer.