If anyone is interested and in the Tampa Florida area I am a Corian
fabricator. I have been on this board for many years and I know that
occassionally people have discussed that they would like to finish a project
with a Corian top but you can not buy the material. As a fabricator I can
not sell you bulk material, but I can to a minimal amount of fabrication, ie
seams, edge build ups etc and then make the piece available for you to put
the final edge treatment and finish on it.
If anyone is interested in this kind of setup email me at
[email protected]
Thanks Eric
Don't get a warranty on the wood I use to build projects. Why should
I care any differently about the Corian that I plan to use for similar
work? After it's cut, shaped and glued into something, you really
think a fabricator will provide replacement pieces if I tell him the
jewelry box I just made suddenly cracked on the bottom? Not likely!
On Wed, 22 Oct 2003 10:58:57 -0700, "no one" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>That is what they call a oem distribution of Corian. As they have noted, it
>is designed to find markets outside the countertop market. Corian has a 10
>year warranty, but only if distributed through a fabricator. If you dont
>care about any warranty on the product this is a good way to go. If you
>note, no where on their website to they speak of warranty. If that doesnt
>matter to you, this is a fine way to go, and for applications that wont be
>the top of a project that gets use I dont see a problem. If it is a top
>that is going to be used, I want a warranty and the knowledge that it is
>assembled to specs so that it will last and not crack.
>
>Good info.
>Eric
>
On Thu, 23 Oct 2003 15:44:19 -0600, Vince Heuring
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Here's a little thing I did with corian that you might be interested
>in. http://www.heuring.org/WhitePlate.jpg For the geeks among us, its
>shape is approximately described as the linear sum of five catenaries,
>truncated.
Kinda looks like a bent plate to me?
James
[email protected]
http://[email protected]
>Don't get a warranty on the wood I use to build projects. Why should
>I care any differently about the Corian that I plan to use for similar
>work?
Corian is really pretty tough stuff, I can't imagine how you would break it. My
wife has a piece across the tailgate of her truck and in spite of construction
workers throwing all sorts of stuff in there she just has a few scratches.
(She is a construction manager and uses this for a flat surface to mark up
plans etc)
In article <[email protected]>, Simon
<[email protected]> wrote:
> "Michael Daly" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:BZJlb.246581$ko%[email protected]...
> > On 22-Oct-2003, [email protected] (Gfretwell) wrote:
> >
> > > Corian is really pretty tough stuff, I can't imagine how you would break
> it.
It almost takes a sledge hammer.
> Corian is basically an acrylic without any reinforcement, it is strong in
> itself but in the machining it can develop minute cracks that will propogate
> almost like glass, if it hasn't been machined correctly.
I'd respectfully disagree. I've sawed it on band and table saw, routed
it with every kind of router bit, drilled it, glued it, sanded it,
polished it, and even put it through a planer. In my experience Corian
and like materials, called "solid surface materials," don't crack.
They *will* break at glue joints if struck with a hammer.
Here's a little thing I did with corian that you might be interested
in. http://www.heuring.org/WhitePlate.jpg For the geeks among us, its
shape is approximately described as the linear sum of five catenaries,
truncated.
--
Vince Heuring ECE Department, University of Colorado - Boulder
To email, remove the Vince.
"Vince Heuring" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:231020031544196833%[email protected]...
>
> I'd respectfully disagree. I've sawed it on band and table saw, routed
> it with every kind of router bit, drilled it, glued it, sanded it,
> polished it, and even put it through a planer. In my experience Corian
> and like materials, called "solid surface materials," don't crack.
> They *will* break at glue joints if struck with a hammer.
I've worked with it since it was first introduced to the kitchen industry in
the UK in the mid 80s. I have seen worktops crack for no apparent reason as
they were being positioned.
On 22-Oct-2003, [email protected] (Gfretwell) wrote:
> Corian is really pretty tough stuff, I can't imagine how you would break it.
OTOH, I know a bunch of folks who have tried using ivory coloured Corian
as fake ivory and gave up because it's too brittle in use.
Mike
>OTOH, I know a bunch of folks who have tried using ivory coloured Corian
>as fake ivory and gave up because it's too brittle in use.
Just bear in mind what it was designed for. As long as you aren't making a
"diving board" out of it you usually do OK. It is a surface material and should
have a good substrate.
On Thu, 23 Oct 2003 08:35:35 -0700, "no one" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"Gfretwell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> >OTOH, I know a bunch of folks who have tried using ivory coloured Corian
>> >as fake ivory and gave up because it's too brittle in use.
>>
>> Just bear in mind what it was designed for. As long as you aren't making a
>> "diving board" out of it you usually do OK. It is a surface material and
>should
>> have a good substrate.
>>
>If you are going to use Corian you do not want a solid substrate. A solid
>underlayment will work as an insulating layer. Corian does not transfer heat
>well across its surface so if a hot item, ie coffee cup, pot etc is placed
>on the surface Corian tries to transfer the heat through, if you have a
>solid wood surface under Corian the heat is trapped. If you are using and
>solid surface you want to build a substrate that resembles a ladder leaving
>large open areas for heat to escape. And only bond wood to corian using
>silicone to allow for differences in expansion and contraction.
>
On a side note, what is the best adhesive to use when bonding corian
to aluminum? I have corian edging on the underside of a corian
countertop with a thin (1/2 in) strip of aluminum separating the two.
The previous owners of my house attempted to re-glue using what
appears to be contact cement. All of these re-glued strips have
fallen off - original strips are secured firmly with ??.
--
Monroe
> On a side note, what is the best adhesive to use when bonding corian
> to aluminum? I have corian edging on the underside of a corian
> countertop with a thin (1/2 in) strip of aluminum separating the two.
> The previous owners of my house attempted to re-glue using what
> appears to be contact cement. All of these re-glued strips have
> fallen off - original strips are secured firmly with ??.
Corian is a methacrylate, so a 2 part methacrylate adhesive like Devcon
Devweld 530, or Loctite 3295, or Araldite 2022 or 2024. would be the most
compatible adhesive, they bond excellently to Aluminum.
"Gfretwell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> >OTOH, I know a bunch of folks who have tried using ivory coloured Corian
> >as fake ivory and gave up because it's too brittle in use.
>
> Just bear in mind what it was designed for. As long as you aren't making a
> "diving board" out of it you usually do OK. It is a surface material and
should
> have a good substrate.
>
If you are going to use Corian you do not want a solid substrate. A solid
underlayment will work as an insulating layer. Corian does not transfer heat
well across its surface so if a hot item, ie coffee cup, pot etc is placed
on the surface Corian tries to transfer the heat through, if you have a
solid wood surface under Corian the heat is trapped. If you are using and
solid surface you want to build a substrate that resembles a ladder leaving
large open areas for heat to escape. And only bond wood to corian using
silicone to allow for differences in expansion and contraction.
So would any polyurethane caulk.
On Sun, 26 Oct 2003 08:49:04 -0000, "Simon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> On a side note, what is the best adhesive to use when bonding corian
>> to aluminum? I have corian edging on the underside of a corian
>> countertop with a thin (1/2 in) strip of aluminum separating the two.
>> The previous owners of my house attempted to re-glue using what
>> appears to be contact cement. All of these re-glued strips have
>> fallen off - original strips are secured firmly with ??.
>
>Corian is a methacrylate, so a 2 part methacrylate adhesive like Devcon
>Devweld 530, or Loctite 3295, or Araldite 2022 or 2024. would be the most
>compatible adhesive, they bond excellently to Aluminum.
>
"Michael Daly" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:BZJlb.246581$ko%[email protected]...
> On 22-Oct-2003, [email protected] (Gfretwell) wrote:
>
> > Corian is really pretty tough stuff, I can't imagine how you would break
it.
>
> OTOH, I know a bunch of folks who have tried using ivory coloured Corian
> as fake ivory and gave up because it's too brittle in use.
>
Corian is basically an acrylic without any reinforcement, it is strong in
itself but in the machining it can develop minute cracks that will propogate
almost like glass, if it hasn't been machined correctly. once in place, if
it has been correctly fitted, it will be very durable, it can take a fair
amount of heat, but not a hot pan straight off the stove.
I have used acrylics for fake ivory, the base monomer and polymer materials
and I have reinforced them with natural animal hair, it gives a grain and
makes for a very natural look as well as strengthens the material.
"Andy Dingley" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I was reading "Concrete Countertops"
> <http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1561584843/codesmiths-20>
> recently, which gave some very intereresting ideas for the next
> kitchen worktop project.
what a coinkydinky ... that book is on it's way to me as I type this ;-)
That is what they call a oem distribution of Corian. As they have noted, it
is designed to find markets outside the countertop market. Corian has a 10
year warranty, but only if distributed through a fabricator. If you dont
care about any warranty on the product this is a good way to go. If you
note, no where on their website to they speak of warranty. If that doesnt
matter to you, this is a fine way to go, and for applications that wont be
the top of a project that gets use I dont see a problem. If it is a top
that is going to be used, I want a warranty and the knowledge that it is
assembled to specs so that it will last and not crack.
Good info.
Eric
I looked further at the web site, and this material can be had below these
prices. This site is not going broke selling at these prices. Again if
anyone is in the Tampa area I would be glad to help them. I dont like to
ship the stuff, since it get real heavy fast. But is someone really wants it
shipped it can be arranged.
Respectfully
Eric
[email protected]
http://stonewood.safeshopper.com/index.htm?78
On Tue, 21 Oct 2003 13:15:17 -0700, "no one" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>If anyone is interested and in the Tampa Florida area I am a Corian
>fabricator. I have been on this board for many years and I know that
>occassionally people have discussed that they would like to finish a project
>with a Corian top but you can not buy the material. As a fabricator I can
>not sell you bulk material, but I can to a minimal amount of fabrication, ie
>seams, edge build ups etc and then make the piece available for you to put
>the final edge treatment and finish on it.
> If anyone is interested in this kind of setup email me at
>[email protected]
>
>Thanks Eric
>
On Thu, 23 Oct 2003 20:48:37 GMT, "Ken K" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>If you are looking for a strong Solid surface material, try Swanstone, it
>will take the heat and abuse and is easy to repair.
I was reading "Concrete Countertops"
<http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1561584843/codesmiths-20>
recently, which gave some very intereresting ideas for the next
kitchen worktop project.
--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods