Drawer slide recommendation ?

And just to clarify. The slides are smoooth all along their travel. It
is just at the very end, the last 1/8", as you are pushing the drawer
fully closed, that the *friction catch* comes into play.
Larry

On Nov 19, 9:32=A0am, [email protected] wrote:
> Hey Leon,
>
> Thanks for the reply. The slides are installed within tolerance. A
> perfectly fit, actualy.
>
> Good idea to test the action of the slide on its own, not installed. I
> did just that. Actually, I noticed before I even installed the slides
> for the first time that they had this friction stop at the end. I
> thought that once they were attached to a drawer and once the drawer
> had some stuff in it, the excesive friction would feel just about
> right. =A0But No, still too much.
>
> No, the slides are not self closing. =A0I like the idea of self closing,
> but the ones I looked at looked too much like kitchen drawer hardware.
>
> I really think that this is how the slides are designed. The friction
> is smooth, just excessive; nothing feels like it is catching. And as
> you say, with stuff in the drawers to provide a little inertia, the
> effect will be less.
>
> Anyway, if you had a particular brand and model of slide that you like
> I will certainly look at them.
>
> Thanks again,
> Larry
>
> On Nov 19, 8:58=A0am, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> >news:ef2d3650-e0a0-4c5c-9ff6-77f3269bf05e@u20g2000vbq.googlegroups.com..=
.
>
> > >I recently used Accuride 3832C drawer slides in a media cabinet (20",
> > > full extension, $23/pr, Rockler).
>
> > > They work well enough, except for one problem. It takes a rather
> > > excessive amount of force to overcome the friction stop in order to
> > > fully push closed the drawer. Conversely, when opening the drawer, yo=
u
> > > have to really pull in order for the drawer to release. =A0Unnecessar=
ily
> > > so.
>
> > > There is nothing wrong with this particular set of slides. The
> > > friction stop is part of the design. It may loosen up with use. But I
> > > want to replace them.
>
> > > So, any recommendations for a similar quality slide that does not hav=
e
> > > the problem as described above.
>
> > > Thanks,
> > > Larry
>
> > Something to consider, =A0if you do not build to fit within the slides
> > tolerances it will require more effort to do every thing, open, close, =
and
> > slide the drawer. =A0Basically and typically you nave a tolerance of 1/=
32"
> > total for the drawer to be the perfect size for the opening.
>
> > If you are properly set up in that aspect, is the drawer slide self clo=
sing?
> > Some times these self closers will add resistance to break free of the =
self
> > closer when opening a drawer from a fully closed position.
>
> > You should not be experiencing an excessive required force as you have
> > indicated. =A0As an experiment remove a drawer and one complete slide a=
ssy.
> > With the drawer setting on a work surface and the full slide assembly
> > attached to one side of the drawer, move the slide open and closed. =A0=
Do you
> > experience the same difficulty? =A0If so, you probably are outside the
> > tolerances of the slide. =A0When the slide is pushed too tightly by an
> > oversized drawer or if it is spread apart by a drawer that is too narro=
w the
> > ball bearings don't ride correctly in the track and will exhibit the ne=
ed
> > for excess force for all movement and especially when closing or openin=
g.
> > This is going to be true regardless of brand.
>
> > Also check to make sure that you have the drawer side of the slide prop=
erly
> > engaged with the cabinet side of the slide. =A0It is possible to mismat=
ch then
> > inserting the drawer and this will cause the situation that you describ=
e.
>
> > If the drawer is too wide you can cut some of the drawer away, a slot i=
f you
> > will for the slide to mount inside. =A0Remember it is not going to take=
much,
> > 1/32" or less deep.
> > If the drawer is too narrow you can shim either the cabinet or drawer s=
ide
> > of the slide. =A0If you will recall there are lots of mounting holes in=
the
> > cabinet side of the slide. =A0The holes on the elongated tabs are desig=
ned to
> > let the slide pull out slightly from the cabinet as they allow the tabs=
to
> > flex. =A0If you drawer is too narrow you might try remounting the cabin=
et side
> > of the slide using the last hole on each of those tabs.
>
> > Also consider loading the drawers with the items that you plan to store=
in
> > them. =A0A heavier drawer tends to operate more smoothly.
>
> > I have used several brands of slides and typically a difficulty to open=
or
> > close drawer is an indicator that the drawer is not with in tolerances.
>
> > A properly fitted drawer should easily be closed by simply giving it a
> > shove. =A0You should not have to push it closed.
>
> > Good luck.

Hey Kevin,

Bingo! I just found these rubbery-plastic bumpers on my own minutes
ago, came back to the computer to report and here was your post.
Thanks,

I removed them and there is, as you say, no resistance at all. Much
better. But there is no longer a positive closed position. The drawer
can wander, in and out, by a 1/16" or so. And since these are flush
drawers, that is not really acceptable, either. I'll see if I can
shave the bumpers for a perfect fit.

I'd still be interested in knowing peoples favorite slides for future.

Thanks all for your responses,

Larry


On Nov 19, 10:58=A0am, Kevin <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Thu, 19 Nov 2009 06:36:55 -0800 (PST), [email protected] wrote:
> >And just to clarify. The slides are smoooth all along their travel. It
> >is just at the very end, the last 1/8", as you are pushing the drawer
> >fully closed, that the *friction catch* comes into play.
>
> There is a plastic piece that slides over a metal tab at the back that
> acts as a bit of a lock to keep the drawer closed and from bouncing
> back. =A0You can remove these if you want no resistance, or shave a
> little off the top and bottom with a chisel to reduce the friction.
>
> -Kevin

On Thu, 19 Nov 2009 11:20:33 -0800, crane763 wrote:

> I'd still be interested in knowing peoples favorite slides for future.

My favorite slide is wooden drawers on wooden runners :-).

And, built right, a lot less installation hassle.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

as far as alternatives to Accuride, I love the undermount slides from
Blum, which install easily and perform flawlessly, in my experience.
As for sidemount slides, for a recent project I ordered drawer parts
from Unique Drawer Boxes, and the salesman there persuaded me to try
U.S. Futaba slides, which he said were better than Accuride. I used
them, and they seem very good--smooth and strong. I haven't used
Accuride, so I don't know how they compare...
HTH,
Eric

On Thu, 19 Nov 2009 18:30:04 -0600, the infamous Larry Blanchard
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:

>On Thu, 19 Nov 2009 11:20:33 -0800, crane763 wrote:
>
>> I'd still be interested in knowing peoples favorite slides for future.
>
>My favorite slide is wooden drawers on wooden runners :-).
>
>And, built right, a lot less installation hassle.

I continue to have to wax my runners twice a year in my old kitchen if
I want to have a somewhat sane time working in there.

P.S: You like wooden runners? Masochism is a treatable illness,
y'know.

--
When we are planning for posterity,
we ought to remember that virtue is not hereditary.
-- Thomas Paine

<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:bd200cd0-e5b2-4a3f-9890-10cca8a86962@m20g2000vbp.googlegroups.com...
Hey Leon,

Thanks for the reply. The slides are installed within tolerance. A
perfectly fit, actualy.

Good idea to test the action of the slide on its own, not installed. I
did just that. Actually, I noticed before I even installed the slides
for the first time that they had this friction stop at the end. I
thought that once they were attached to a drawer and once the drawer
had some stuff in it, the excesive friction would feel just about
right. But No, still too much.

No, the slides are not self closing. I like the idea of self closing,
but the ones I looked at looked too much like kitchen drawer hardware.


Ok, you want the self closing, I was not sure you could get other than self
closing these days. I know what you are talking about now. That detent
keeps the drawer from reopening on its own if the cab is not on a level
surface.

The self closing ones do provide resistance but much less than the plain
slides. You also might want to consider the "soft close self closing
slides. You can give them a pretty hard shove to close and about 2" out a
small hydraulic piston dampens the force and pulls the drawer shut.

I prefer KV brand slides. 8417 series for self closing and 8450 for self
closing and soft close.
http://wwhardware.com/catalog.cfm/GroupID/Cabinet%20Drawer%20Slides/CatID/Drawer%20Slides%2C%20Full%20Extension%20Ball%20Bearing

<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:19e7358b-b5e9-4e22-a766-3efdb1dadac1@m11g2000vbo.googlegroups.com...
And just to clarify. The slides are smoooth all along their travel. It
is just at the very end, the last 1/8", as you are pushing the drawer
fully closed, that the *friction catch* comes into play.
Larry


Ok, one last thing to consider. If you put too big of a screw near the
front cabinet side, the head can interfear with the closing of the slide.
You might want to double check that. Easiest way is to remove the screw and
try the result.

[email protected] wrote:

> I'd still be interested in knowing peoples favorite slides for future.

I'm with Leon on the KV's for side mount general purpose slides.

If you want undermount, and really want to wow the women(they will stand
in a kitchen and open and close these drawers endlessly), try the
Hettich Quadro IW 21 "Silent System" slides.

http://www.thehardwarehut.com/catalog-product.php?p_ref=254507

(For illustration only ... you can beat these prices easily).

Caveat: they can be a PITA to install, particularly if you're not
meticulous with your drawers and cabinet construction (the slides are
the tail that wags the dog as far as drawer dimension/design goes) but
worth the hassle because they never fail please the woman of the house,
which is all that matters in the end.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:ef2d3650-e0a0-4c5c-9ff6-77f3269bf05e@u20g2000vbq.googlegroups.com...
>I recently used Accuride 3832C drawer slides in a media cabinet (20",
> full extension, $23/pr, Rockler).
>
> They work well enough, except for one problem. It takes a rather
> excessive amount of force to overcome the friction stop in order to
> fully push closed the drawer. Conversely, when opening the drawer, you
> have to really pull in order for the drawer to release. Unnecessarily
> so.
>
> There is nothing wrong with this particular set of slides. The
> friction stop is part of the design. It may loosen up with use. But I
> want to replace them.
>
> So, any recommendations for a similar quality slide that does not have
> the problem as described above.
>
> Thanks,
> Larry

Something to consider, if you do not build to fit within the slides
tolerances it will require more effort to do every thing, open, close, and
slide the drawer. Basically and typically you nave a tolerance of 1/32"
total for the drawer to be the perfect size for the opening.

If you are properly set up in that aspect, is the drawer slide self closing?
Some times these self closers will add resistance to break free of the self
closer when opening a drawer from a fully closed position.

You should not be experiencing an excessive required force as you have
indicated. As an experiment remove a drawer and one complete slide assy.
With the drawer setting on a work surface and the full slide assembly
attached to one side of the drawer, move the slide open and closed. Do you
experience the same difficulty? If so, you probably are outside the
tolerances of the slide. When the slide is pushed too tightly by an
oversized drawer or if it is spread apart by a drawer that is too narrow the
ball bearings don't ride correctly in the track and will exhibit the need
for excess force for all movement and especially when closing or opening.
This is going to be true regardless of brand.

Also check to make sure that you have the drawer side of the slide properly
engaged with the cabinet side of the slide. It is possible to mismatch then
inserting the drawer and this will cause the situation that you describe.

If the drawer is too wide you can cut some of the drawer away, a slot if you
will for the slide to mount inside. Remember it is not going to take much,
1/32" or less deep.
If the drawer is too narrow you can shim either the cabinet or drawer side
of the slide. If you will recall there are lots of mounting holes in the
cabinet side of the slide. The holes on the elongated tabs are designed to
let the slide pull out slightly from the cabinet as they allow the tabs to
flex. If you drawer is too narrow you might try remounting the cabinet side
of the slide using the last hole on each of those tabs.

Also consider loading the drawers with the items that you plan to store in
them. A heavier drawer tends to operate more smoothly.

I have used several brands of slides and typically a difficulty to open or
close drawer is an indicator that the drawer is not with in tolerances.

A properly fitted drawer should easily be closed by simply giving it a
shove. You should not have to push it closed.

Good luck.

Hey Leon,

Thanks for the reply. The slides are installed within tolerance. A
perfectly fit, actualy.

Good idea to test the action of the slide on its own, not installed. I
did just that. Actually, I noticed before I even installed the slides
for the first time that they had this friction stop at the end. I
thought that once they were attached to a drawer and once the drawer
had some stuff in it, the excesive friction would feel just about
right. But No, still too much.

No, the slides are not self closing. I like the idea of self closing,
but the ones I looked at looked too much like kitchen drawer hardware.

I really think that this is how the slides are designed. The friction
is smooth, just excessive; nothing feels like it is catching. And as
you say, with stuff in the drawers to provide a little inertia, the
effect will be less.

Anyway, if you had a particular brand and model of slide that you like
I will certainly look at them.

Thanks again,
Larry

On Nov 19, 8:58=A0am, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:ef2d3650-e0a0-4c5c-9ff6-77f3269bf05e@u20g2000vbq.googlegroups.com...
>
>
>
> >I recently used Accuride 3832C drawer slides in a media cabinet (20",
> > full extension, $23/pr, Rockler).
>
> > They work well enough, except for one problem. It takes a rather
> > excessive amount of force to overcome the friction stop in order to
> > fully push closed the drawer. Conversely, when opening the drawer, you
> > have to really pull in order for the drawer to release. =A0Unnecessaril=
y
> > so.
>
> > There is nothing wrong with this particular set of slides. The
> > friction stop is part of the design. It may loosen up with use. But I
> > want to replace them.
>
> > So, any recommendations for a similar quality slide that does not have
> > the problem as described above.
>
> > Thanks,
> > Larry
>
> Something to consider, =A0if you do not build to fit within the slides
> tolerances it will require more effort to do every thing, open, close, an=
d
> slide the drawer. =A0Basically and typically you nave a tolerance of 1/32=
"
> total for the drawer to be the perfect size for the opening.
>
> If you are properly set up in that aspect, is the drawer slide self closi=
ng?
> Some times these self closers will add resistance to break free of the se=
lf
> closer when opening a drawer from a fully closed position.
>
> You should not be experiencing an excessive required force as you have
> indicated. =A0As an experiment remove a drawer and one complete slide ass=
y.
> With the drawer setting on a work surface and the full slide assembly
> attached to one side of the drawer, move the slide open and closed. =A0Do=
you
> experience the same difficulty? =A0If so, you probably are outside the
> tolerances of the slide. =A0When the slide is pushed too tightly by an
> oversized drawer or if it is spread apart by a drawer that is too narrow =
the
> ball bearings don't ride correctly in the track and will exhibit the need
> for excess force for all movement and especially when closing or opening.
> This is going to be true regardless of brand.
>
> Also check to make sure that you have the drawer side of the slide proper=
ly
> engaged with the cabinet side of the slide. =A0It is possible to mismatch=
then
> inserting the drawer and this will cause the situation that you describe.
>
> If the drawer is too wide you can cut some of the drawer away, a slot if =
you
> will for the slide to mount inside. =A0Remember it is not going to take m=
uch,
> 1/32" or less deep.
> If the drawer is too narrow you can shim either the cabinet or drawer sid=
e
> of the slide. =A0If you will recall there are lots of mounting holes in t=
he
> cabinet side of the slide. =A0The holes on the elongated tabs are designe=
d to
> let the slide pull out slightly from the cabinet as they allow the tabs t=
o
> flex. =A0If you drawer is too narrow you might try remounting the cabinet=
side
> of the slide using the last hole on each of those tabs.
>
> Also consider loading the drawers with the items that you plan to store i=
n
> them. =A0A heavier drawer tends to operate more smoothly.
>
> I have used several brands of slides and typically a difficulty to open o=
r
> close drawer is an indicator that the drawer is not with in tolerances.
>
> A properly fitted drawer should easily be closed by simply giving it a
> shove. =A0You should not have to push it closed.
>
> Good luck.

Swingman said:

>[email protected] wrote:
>
>> I'd still be interested in knowing peoples favorite slides for future.
>
>I'm with Leon on the KV's for side mount general purpose slides.
>
>If you want undermount, and really want to wow the women(they will stand
>in a kitchen and open and close these drawers endlessly), try the
>Hettich Quadro IW 21 "Silent System" slides.
>
>http://www.thehardwarehut.com/catalog-product.php?p_ref=254507
>
>(For illustration only ... you can beat these prices easily).
>
>Caveat: they can be a PITA to install, particularly if you're not
>meticulous with your drawers and cabinet construction (the slides are
>the tail that wags the dog as far as drawer dimension/design goes) but
>worth the hassle because they never fail please the woman of the house,
>which is all that matters in the end.

Hey, women aren't the only one who can appreciate a smooth, precision
mechanism. (cue the double entendre...) In fact I'd say that you or
I would probably have as much or more appreciation. Last girl I dated
would put her junk in a cardboard box and never miss a thing - every
car door closing was an ear popping experience. Besides, just how
many times did you open & close the drawers on your last project? :)

16 x 2 x $22.= $704. Ouch, but I guess you get what you pay for...


Greg G.

On Fri, 20 Nov 2009 15:12:14 -0500, J. Clarke wrote:

> Leon wrote:
>> "Larry Blanchard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> On Fri, 20 Nov 2009 01:46:22 -0500, J. Clarke wrote:
>>>
>>>> Larry Blanchard wrote:
>>>>> On Thu, 19 Nov 2009 11:20:33 -0800, crane763 wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> I'd still be interested in knowing peoples favorite slides for
>>>>>> future.
>>>>>
>>>>> My favorite slide is wooden drawers on wooden runners :-).
>>>>>
>>>>> And, built right, a lot less installation hassle.
>>>>
>>>> For lightweight drawers that can conveniently be completely removed
>>>> that's fine. For something that's going to be full of pots and pans
>>>> or food or tools that you want to be able to get to the back of, not
>>>> so much.
>>>
>>> I agree on the over-extension case. That's hard to do in wood. As
>>> far as only light duty, that depends on the definition. In our
>>> entertainment center I have large drawers full of VCR tapes that must
>>> weigh close to 50 pounds on wooden runners. OTOH, drawers full of
>>> vinyl records *are* on metal runners since thay hold around 100 pounds
>>> each.
>>>
>>> And yes, I'm in the process of converting the records to CDs and the
>>> tapes to DVDs :-).
>>
>> You might want to rethink, LOL.. I read a couple of days ago that DVD
>> and BlueRay may be out done by plug in memory devices.
>
> It's the 21st Century anway--put in a couple of terabytes of RAID and
> you've got them all online and viewable from anywhere.

I can't afford to keep up with every new advance. The only reason I'm
even doing the conversions is that optical storage lasts longer.

And I don't like viewing/listening on my computer, and no, I can't
connect my computer to my TV nor would I if I could. All new toys are
not progress, just a way to part us from our cash.

And for the obligatory WW reference, the previous statement applies to
tools just as well as it does to electronics.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

Not much to add here after all that good advice. (Great post,
Leon!). There are only a couple of other things I would consider.

I would check to see if the drawer box is wracked, or twisted. As you
know, it doesn't take much to ruin that "one finger pull" we all
like. After being beat to death by drawer slides in a kitchen I was
remodeling, I found that the cabinets were the problem. Sitting on a
barely uneven floor after installation, it twisted the lower drawer
boxes just enough to cause the frames to be wracked a tiny bit. The
drawer worked fine, but didn't glide. I like glide.

This was my solution: I loosened the screws at the middle and rear of
the drawer box a bit, and took the screws out of the socket. I hung
the socket in a new hole and left it snug, but moveable.

I then put the drawer in and opened and closed it several times. It
began to work better. I loaded the drawer. Now it worked much
better. I took the stuff out of the drawer and tightened the screws
on the slides and sockets. Worked like a champ. It only took me a
whole damn day to figure that one out.

The drawer/cabinet combo was off a little less than a 1/8" between the
two of them combined on a 30" wide 30" deep and >> 12" tall <<
drawer. That's not much at all. Plenty to ruin the glide, though.
Apparently the drawer had wracked a bit, and the socket surface had
distorted after installation.

Make sure you didn't buy more slide than you need. When you start
getting into the really heavy slides, they don't roll quite as well as
one made for a lighter load. IME, a 500# rated slide (lateral file
cabinets) doesn't move as smoothly as a desk drawer model rated at
50#.

With that in mind, load it up before you make a decision. Accuride
isn't the only game in town, but they make a very reliable product.
When using the good slides like Accuride that are designed to carry
weight, they roll much better under load, probably because you are
engaging the bearings.

Robert

On Thu, 19 Nov 2009 06:36:55 -0800 (PST), [email protected] wrote:

>And just to clarify. The slides are smoooth all along their travel. It
>is just at the very end, the last 1/8", as you are pushing the drawer
>fully closed, that the *friction catch* comes into play.

There is a plastic piece that slides over a metal tab at the back that
acts as a bit of a lock to keep the drawer closed and from bouncing
back. You can remove these if you want no resistance, or shave a
little off the top and bottom with a chisel to reduce the friction.


-Kevin

[email protected] wrote:
> And just to clarify. The slides are smoooth all along their travel. It
> is just at the very end, the last 1/8", as you are pushing the drawer
> fully closed, that the *friction catch* comes into play.

Have you tried giving Accuride a call? They might have an adjustment
procedure or some sort of corrective action.

By the way, there's a self-closing slide in that same series, that doesn't
have the detent.

> Larry
>
> On Nov 19, 9:32 am, [email protected] wrote:
>> Hey Leon,
>>
>> Thanks for the reply. The slides are installed within tolerance. A
>> perfectly fit, actualy.
>>
>> Good idea to test the action of the slide on its own, not installed.
>> I did just that. Actually, I noticed before I even installed the
>> slides for the first time that they had this friction stop at the
>> end. I thought that once they were attached to a drawer and once the
>> drawer had some stuff in it, the excesive friction would feel just
>> about right. But No, still too much.
>>
>> No, the slides are not self closing. I like the idea of self closing,
>> but the ones I looked at looked too much like kitchen drawer
>> hardware.
>>
>> I really think that this is how the slides are designed. The friction
>> is smooth, just excessive; nothing feels like it is catching. And as
>> you say, with stuff in the drawers to provide a little inertia, the
>> effect will be less.
>>
>> Anyway, if you had a particular brand and model of slide that you
>> like I will certainly look at them.
>>
>> Thanks again,
>> Larry
>>
>> On Nov 19, 8:58 am, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>>> news:ef2d3650-e0a0-4c5c-9ff6-77f3269bf05e@u20g2000vbq.googlegroups.com...
>>
>>>> I recently used Accuride 3832C drawer slides in a media cabinet
>>>> (20", full extension, $23/pr, Rockler).
>>
>>>> They work well enough, except for one problem. It takes a rather
>>>> excessive amount of force to overcome the friction stop in order to
>>>> fully push closed the drawer. Conversely, when opening the drawer,
>>>> you have to really pull in order for the drawer to release.
>>>> Unnecessarily so.
>>
>>>> There is nothing wrong with this particular set of slides. The
>>>> friction stop is part of the design. It may loosen up with use.
>>>> But I want to replace them.
>>
>>>> So, any recommendations for a similar quality slide that does not
>>>> have the problem as described above.
>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>> Larry
>>
>>> Something to consider, if you do not build to fit within the slides
>>> tolerances it will require more effort to do every thing, open,
>>> close, and slide the drawer. Basically and typically you nave a
>>> tolerance of 1/32" total for the drawer to be the perfect size for
>>> the opening.
>>
>>> If you are properly set up in that aspect, is the drawer slide self
>>> closing? Some times these self closers will add resistance to break
>>> free of the self closer when opening a drawer from a fully closed
>>> position.
>>
>>> You should not be experiencing an excessive required force as you
>>> have indicated. As an experiment remove a drawer and one complete
>>> slide assy. With the drawer setting on a work surface and the full
>>> slide assembly attached to one side of the drawer, move the slide
>>> open and closed. Do you experience the same difficulty? If so, you
>>> probably are outside the tolerances of the slide. When the slide is
>>> pushed too tightly by an oversized drawer or if it is spread apart
>>> by a drawer that is too narrow the ball bearings don't ride
>>> correctly in the track and will exhibit the need for excess force
>>> for all movement and especially when closing or opening. This is
>>> going to be true regardless of brand.
>>
>>> Also check to make sure that you have the drawer side of the slide
>>> properly engaged with the cabinet side of the slide. It is possible
>>> to mismatch then inserting the drawer and this will cause the
>>> situation that you describe.
>>
>>> If the drawer is too wide you can cut some of the drawer away, a
>>> slot if you will for the slide to mount inside. Remember it is not
>>> going to take much, 1/32" or less deep.
>>> If the drawer is too narrow you can shim either the cabinet or
>>> drawer side of the slide. If you will recall there are lots of
>>> mounting holes in the cabinet side of the slide. The holes on the
>>> elongated tabs are designed to let the slide pull out slightly from
>>> the cabinet as they allow the tabs to flex. If you drawer is too
>>> narrow you might try remounting the cabinet side of the slide using
>>> the last hole on each of those tabs.
>>
>>> Also consider loading the drawers with the items that you plan to
>>> store in them. A heavier drawer tends to operate more smoothly.
>>
>>> I have used several brands of slides and typically a difficulty to
>>> open or close drawer is an indicator that the drawer is not with in
>>> tolerances.
>>
>>> A properly fitted drawer should easily be closed by simply giving
>>> it a shove. You should not have to push it closed.
>>
>>> Good luck.

Larry Blanchard wrote:
> On Thu, 19 Nov 2009 11:20:33 -0800, crane763 wrote:
>
>> I'd still be interested in knowing peoples favorite slides for
>> future.
>
> My favorite slide is wooden drawers on wooden runners :-).
>
> And, built right, a lot less installation hassle.

For lightweight drawers that can conveniently be completely removed that's
fine. For something that's going to be full of pots and pans or food or
tools that you want to be able to get to the back of, not so much.

Leon wrote:
> "Larry Blanchard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> On Fri, 20 Nov 2009 01:46:22 -0500, J. Clarke wrote:
>>
>>> Larry Blanchard wrote:
>>>> On Thu, 19 Nov 2009 11:20:33 -0800, crane763 wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I'd still be interested in knowing peoples favorite slides for
>>>>> future.
>>>>
>>>> My favorite slide is wooden drawers on wooden runners :-).
>>>>
>>>> And, built right, a lot less installation hassle.
>>>
>>> For lightweight drawers that can conveniently be completely removed
>>> that's fine. For something that's going to be full of pots and
>>> pans or food or tools that you want to be able to get to the back
>>> of, not so much.
>>
>> I agree on the over-extension case. That's hard to do in wood. As
>> far as only light duty, that depends on the definition. In our
>> entertainment center I have large drawers full of VCR tapes that
>> must weigh close to 50 pounds on wooden runners. OTOH, drawers full
>> of vinyl records *are* on metal runners since thay hold around 100
>> pounds each.
>>
>> And yes, I'm in the process of converting the records to CDs and the
>> tapes to DVDs :-).
>
> You might want to rethink, LOL.. I read a couple of days ago that
> DVD and BlueRay may be out done by plug in memory devices.

It's the 21st Century anway--put in a couple of terabytes of RAID and you've
got them all online and viewable from anywhere.

Larry Blanchard wrote:
> On Fri, 20 Nov 2009 15:12:14 -0500, J. Clarke wrote:
>
>> Leon wrote:
>>> "Larry Blanchard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>> On Fri, 20 Nov 2009 01:46:22 -0500, J. Clarke wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Larry Blanchard wrote:
>>>>>> On Thu, 19 Nov 2009 11:20:33 -0800, crane763 wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I'd still be interested in knowing peoples favorite slides for
>>>>>>> future.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> My favorite slide is wooden drawers on wooden runners :-).
>>>>>>
>>>>>> And, built right, a lot less installation hassle.
>>>>>
>>>>> For lightweight drawers that can conveniently be completely
>>>>> removed that's fine. For something that's going to be full of
>>>>> pots and pans or food or tools that you want to be able to get to
>>>>> the back of, not so much.
>>>>
>>>> I agree on the over-extension case. That's hard to do in wood. As
>>>> far as only light duty, that depends on the definition. In our
>>>> entertainment center I have large drawers full of VCR tapes that
>>>> must weigh close to 50 pounds on wooden runners. OTOH, drawers
>>>> full of vinyl records *are* on metal runners since thay hold
>>>> around 100 pounds each.
>>>>
>>>> And yes, I'm in the process of converting the records to CDs and
>>>> the tapes to DVDs :-).
>>>
>>> You might want to rethink, LOL.. I read a couple of days ago that
>>> DVD and BlueRay may be out done by plug in memory devices.
>>
>> It's the 21st Century anway--put in a couple of terabytes of RAID and
>> you've got them all online and viewable from anywhere.
>
> I can't afford to keep up with every new advance. The only reason I'm
> even doing the conversions is that optical storage lasts longer.

Run the numbers. A Blu-Ray disk gives you 25 gig for 8 bucks. That's 320
bucks a terabyte.

Terabyte drives go for 85 bucks.

So if you're being cheap the RAID is the way to go.

> And I don't like viewing/listening on my computer, and no, I can't
> connect my computer to my TV nor would I if I could. All new toys are
> not progress, just a way to part us from our cash.

So don't view on your computer. Geez, a WDTV is under a hundred bucks. The
computer doesn't even have to be on the same continent.

> And for the obligatory WW reference, the previous statement applies to
> tools just as well as it does to electronics.

However why use an expensive inconvenient tool when a cheap convenient one
is available?

[email protected] wrote:
: I recently used Accuride 3832C drawer slides in a media cabinet (20",
: full extension, $23/pr, Rockler).

: They work well enough, except for one problem. It takes a rather
: excessive amount of force to overcome the friction stop in order to
: fully push closed the drawer. Conversely, when opening the drawer, you
: have to really pull in order for the drawer to release. Unnecessarily
: so.

I've been really impressed with the slides used in the Ikea kitchen
cabinets we installed last summer. Brand isn't marked, but they're made
in Austria, and may be available separately from Ikea. Smoooothhhhh,
and they have dampers which make closing them a pleasure.

-- Andy Barss

On Thu, 19 Nov 2009 13:04:43 -0800 (PST), the infamous
"[email protected]" <[email protected]> scrawled the following:

>as far as alternatives to Accuride, I love the undermount slides from
>Blum, which install easily and perform flawlessly, in my experience.
>As for sidemount slides, for a recent project I ordered drawer parts
>from Unique Drawer Boxes, and the salesman there persuaded me to try
>U.S. Futaba slides, which he said were better than Accuride. I used
>them, and they seem very good--smooth and strong. I haven't used
>Accuride, so I don't know how they compare...

Blum has an interesting corner drawer setup, too.
http://fwd4.me/59Y Click on the thumbnail for a real pic.

--
When we are planning for posterity,
we ought to remember that virtue is not hereditary.
-- Thomas Paine

"Larry Blanchard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 20 Nov 2009 01:46:22 -0500, J. Clarke wrote:
>
>> Larry Blanchard wrote:
>>> On Thu, 19 Nov 2009 11:20:33 -0800, crane763 wrote:
>>>
>>>> I'd still be interested in knowing peoples favorite slides for future.
>>>
>>> My favorite slide is wooden drawers on wooden runners :-).
>>>
>>> And, built right, a lot less installation hassle.
>>
>> For lightweight drawers that can conveniently be completely removed
>> that's fine. For something that's going to be full of pots and pans or
>> food or tools that you want to be able to get to the back of, not so
>> much.
>
> I agree on the over-extension case. That's hard to do in wood. As far
> as only light duty, that depends on the definition. In our entertainment
> center I have large drawers full of VCR tapes that must weigh close to 50
> pounds on wooden runners. OTOH, drawers full of vinyl records *are* on
> metal runners since thay hold around 100 pounds each.
>
> And yes, I'm in the process of converting the records to CDs and the
> tapes to DVDs :-).

You might want to rethink, LOL.. I read a couple of days ago that DVD and
BlueRay may be out done by plug in memory devices.





> --
> Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On Thu, 19 Nov 2009 10:19:19 -0500, the infamous "J. Clarke"
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:

>[email protected] wrote:
>> And just to clarify. The slides are smoooth all along their travel. It
>> is just at the very end, the last 1/8", as you are pushing the drawer
>> fully closed, that the *friction catch* comes into play.
>
>Have you tried giving Accuride a call? They might have an adjustment
>procedure or some sort of corrective action.

The mechanisms I've seen for that are made of rubber, so a razor knife
would be the quickest way to ease the anti-slam/stay-closed mechanism.
Just pare off a bit, or, if he prefers, remove the rubber baby buggy
bumper thang. No sweat.

LJ, who thirsts for a couple pair of 60" Accuride 9301s, juscuz.

(I just googled for the site and discovered that Accuride filed for
bankruptcy on October 8th. Thank you, O!)

--
When we are planning for posterity,
we ought to remember that virtue is not hereditary.
-- Thomas Paine

On Thu, 19 Nov 2009 17:17:56 -0500, the infamous Greg
G.<[email protected]> scrawled the following:

>Swingman said:
>
>>[email protected] wrote:
>>
>>> I'd still be interested in knowing peoples favorite slides for future.
>>
>>I'm with Leon on the KV's for side mount general purpose slides.
>>
>>If you want undermount, and really want to wow the women(they will stand
>>in a kitchen and open and close these drawers endlessly), try the
>>Hettich Quadro IW 21 "Silent System" slides.
>>
>>http://www.thehardwarehut.com/catalog-product.php?p_ref=254507
>>
>>(For illustration only ... you can beat these prices easily).
>>
>>Caveat: they can be a PITA to install, particularly if you're not
>>meticulous with your drawers and cabinet construction (the slides are
>>the tail that wags the dog as far as drawer dimension/design goes) but
>>worth the hassle because they never fail please the woman of the house,
>>which is all that matters in the end.
>
>Hey, women aren't the only one who can appreciate a smooth, precision
>mechanism. (cue the double entendre...) In fact I'd say that you or
>I would probably have as much or more appreciation. Last girl I dated
>would put her junk in a cardboard box and never miss a thing - every
>car door closing was an ear popping experience. Besides, just how
>many times did you open & close the drawers on your last project? :)
>
>16 x 2 x $22.= $704. Ouch, but I guess you get what you pay for...

Pay for? Yeah, womenfolk are definitely a high-maintenance breed.

I've been very happy with my investment (2 whole pair!) in the zinc
plated, imported Accuride clones I got from the local hardwood shop.
The 22-inchers were $7 a pair, I believe, and are smooth as silk.
Some day I may even install them. (Yet another put-off project. They
were to go under the center of my rollaround work bench that I hardly
use.)

--
When we are planning for posterity,
we ought to remember that virtue is not hereditary.
-- Thomas Paine

On Fri, 20 Nov 2009 06:30:12 -0800, Larry Jaques wrote:

>>My favorite slide is wooden drawers on wooden runners :-).
>>
>>And, built right, a lot less installation hassle.
>
> I continue to have to wax my runners twice a year in my old kitchen if I
> want to have a somewhat sane time working in there.
>
> P.S: You like wooden runners? Masochism is a treatable illness, y'know.

Nope - Masochism is getting metal slides lined up :-).

And with birch sides on birch runners, I've never had to wax. But your
kitchen drawers most likely have a heavier duty cycle.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On Fri, 20 Nov 2009 01:46:22 -0500, J. Clarke wrote:

> Larry Blanchard wrote:
>> On Thu, 19 Nov 2009 11:20:33 -0800, crane763 wrote:
>>
>>> I'd still be interested in knowing peoples favorite slides for future.
>>
>> My favorite slide is wooden drawers on wooden runners :-).
>>
>> And, built right, a lot less installation hassle.
>
> For lightweight drawers that can conveniently be completely removed
> that's fine. For something that's going to be full of pots and pans or
> food or tools that you want to be able to get to the back of, not so
> much.

I agree on the over-extension case. That's hard to do in wood. As far
as only light duty, that depends on the definition. In our entertainment
center I have large drawers full of VCR tapes that must weigh close to 50
pounds on wooden runners. OTOH, drawers full of vinyl records *are* on
metal runners since thay hold around 100 pounds each.

And yes, I'm in the process of converting the records to CDs and the
tapes to DVDs :-).

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw