Just got a bandsaw

On Sun, 17 Jul 2011 18:29:32 -0400, Jack Stein <[email protected]> wrote:

>On 7/14/2011 9:08 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>> On Thu, 14 Jul 2011 20:01:26 -0400, "J. Clarke"<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>> Just a suggestionm, if you haven't already done something similar--pull
>>> out the tension assembly and work some paste wax into the screw thread
>>> then wipe it off. Once it dries it won't pick up dust like grease
>>> would, and it makes the mechanism work much more smoothly.
>>
>> I assume you'd have to wash all the grease out first. With such "fixes" I
>> always wonder why the manufacturer didn't do that, if it's such a good idea.
>
>When I got my planer the segmented head was packed with some god awful
>grease goop that was almost impossible to get out of every nook and
>cranny of a segmented 72 tooth head. They could have sprayed the damned
>thing with Topcote and I wouldn't have needed to spend 4 hours digging
>out grease. They used a ton of it too, and probably would have been
>cheaper and easier to use Topcote, or similar item. I nicked a finger
>doing it as well... I shoulda sued the bastards...

I don't think you're ever to get them to stop using cosmoline on iron that has
to make the great crossing from China, lashed to the deck of a ship.

On 7/14/2011 3:31 PM, dadiOH wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>> On 7/14/2011 12:40 PM, Doug Winterburn wrote:
>>> On 7/14/2011 10:14 AM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
>>>> On Wed, 13 Jul 2011 23:28:20 -0500, Leon wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Well thank you. It would never work on TB 3.x
>>>>>
>>>>> I had all kinds of problems with TB 3.x and it seems it was in
>>>>> need of so such an improvement that they skipped 4.x altogether, I
>>>>> think. ;~)
>>>>
>>>> I'm running 3.04 under Ubuntu Linux and filters work just fine,
>>>> thank you. Cockpit error? Or is the Windoze version less capable?
>>>>
>>>>
>>> The Windows version works fine (I use linux but SWMBO uses windows).
>>> If you mark the offending posts as "read" rather than the default
>>> "delete", all is fine. You can't delete posts by another poster, so
>>> the filter appears not to work.
>>
>> You can "now" delete posts by another poster in TB 5.0. and they
>> disappear.
>
> From your computer, I am sure. Same in OE. They don't disappear from the
> server though, which doesn't really matter as they are no longer bothering
> you (us) :)
>
Co-wrecked!

"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:

>
> 1. Get a 1/2" Woodslicer blade
> https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=ed4947a9805111a1&page=play&res
> id=ED4947A9805111A1!621

What are you linking to?

*snip*

> 7. Reduce tension until you next need to saw
>
> Note that wood is going to drift when ripping/resawing; i.e., the wood
> will want to go through the blade at an angle. That is normal.
>

Is reducing tension, say two or three twists on the tensioning knob
sufficient, or should I release it as much as I can?

Puckdropper

"Dr. Deb" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

>
> If I had just gotten a new bandsaw, the first thing I would do is get
> a "riser" for it and increase the throat height by 6" (that comes in
> so handy for so many things) Obviously, when you do that you need a
> new blade - I agree with the "Wood Slicer" from Hightland Hardware
> recommendation. I have tried others and have had none that touched
> the way the Wood Slicer performs. As far as releasing the tension, I
> never do and have had no excess wear on the tires. I have had the saw
> over 10 years I am still on the same set of tires and they show no
> grooving at all at all.
>
> Deb
>

I'm seriously considering getting the riser kit. I know it changes the
blade size, so I'll probably use what I've got to get a feel for how the
saw works.

Does your saw get used on a regular basis? That seems to be one of the
variables no one mentions when talking about releasing the tension.

Puckdropper

"Leon" wrote:

> Ok La-rey the Clark is plonked. ;~)
-------------------------------------
I made the SOB give up plonk me.

It wasn't much of a challenge.

Lew

On 7/14/2011 10:14 AM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
> On Wed, 13 Jul 2011 23:28:20 -0500, Leon wrote:
>
>> Well thank you. It would never work on TB 3.x
>>
>> I had all kinds of problems with TB 3.x and it seems it was in need of
>> so such an improvement that they skipped 4.x altogether, I think. ;~)
>
> I'm running 3.04 under Ubuntu Linux and filters work just fine, thank
> you. Cockpit error? Or is the Windoze version less capable?
>
>
The Windows version works fine (I use linux but SWMBO uses windows). If
you mark the offending posts as "read" rather than the default "delete",
all is fine. You can't delete posts by another poster, so the filter
appears not to work.

"J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
> says...
>>
>> In article <[email protected]>
>> "dadiOH" <[email protected]> writes:
>> >Puckdropper wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Right now, there is a 3/4" blade on it. A 5/16" blade was
>> >> included as well.
>> >
>> >1. Get a 1/2" Woodslicer blade
>>
>> I had the impression that wider was better for resawing.
>> Is there a reason to prefer a 1/2" Woodslicer over a 3/4" Woodslicer?
>
> If the saw you have can tension a 3/4" blade then the 3/4 would be
> preferable for resawing. The trouble is that despite what the
> advertising for the saw says, most small saws are at the edge of their
> capacity with a 3/4 inch blade.
>

I am finding out just how much of my saw is "most saws". It seems the
design has been copied (with varing degrees of quality) by many different
companies. I've got a Powermatic riser kit ordered that should fit my
Jet saw.

Tensioning a 3/4" blade with the top knob on my saw is difficult to say
the least. The knob is too small to provide a good grip, let alone
excellent tension. (I found a replacement kit for $15 that should work
much better.)

Puckdropper

Jack Stein <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 7/13/2011 10:05 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
>> Leon wrote:
>>
>>> On 7/12/2011 8:03 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
>> --nothing of consequence--
>>>>
>>> As usual you are showing your ignorance in public.
>>
>> Leon, once you understand the concept, handling trolls is easy.
>> You simply don't repy to their teasers and you filter them so you
>> don't see the crap they spew.
>
right... make the victim guilty.. brilliant, not!

/sawn

>It's true that ignoring trolls, or anyone you disagree with, will make
>your on line life quicker and easier... But boring as hell.
>
"trolls" of the kind following you up?
That edjut gets boring real fast.
"xSpurt on everything" he i s well known as.

"X" being....

You are correct in saying "boring as hell" if one cannot
handle a troll or two as _everyone_ does this :->
george

"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:

>
> 1. Get a 1/2" Woodslicer blade

I picked up a wood slicer blade and the wood turner's blade from Highland.
What a difference these blades make. I had the one from the riser kit on
for a little while (to make sure everything worked before buying blades),
and it had a definite lead and sawed poorly out of the box. The Woodslicer
and Wood Turner's blade have no discernable lead and cut through the wood
quite easily.

I had forgotten to adjust the upper guides with the wood slicer on, and it
still cut perfectly.

Thanks for the tip.

Puckdropper

On Thu, 14 Jul 2011 20:01:26 -0400, "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote:

>In article <[email protected]>,
>Puckdropper says...
>>
>> "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in
>> news:[email protected]:
>>
>> > In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
>> > says...
>> >>
>> >> In article <[email protected]>
>> >> "dadiOH" <[email protected]> writes:
>> >> >Puckdropper wrote:
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Right now, there is a 3/4" blade on it. A 5/16" blade was
>> >> >> included as well.
>> >> >
>> >> >1. Get a 1/2" Woodslicer blade
>> >>
>> >> I had the impression that wider was better for resawing.
>> >> Is there a reason to prefer a 1/2" Woodslicer over a 3/4" Woodslicer?
>> >
>> > If the saw you have can tension a 3/4" blade then the 3/4 would be
>> > preferable for resawing. The trouble is that despite what the
>> > advertising for the saw says, most small saws are at the edge of their
>> > capacity with a 3/4 inch blade.
>> >
>>
>> I am finding out just how much of my saw is "most saws". It seems the
>> design has been copied (with varing degrees of quality) by many different
>> companies. I've got a Powermatic riser kit ordered that should fit my
>> Jet saw.
>>
>> Tensioning a 3/4" blade with the top knob on my saw is difficult to say
>> the least. The knob is too small to provide a good grip, let alone
>> excellent tension. (I found a replacement kit for $15 that should work
>> much better.)
>
>Just a suggestionm, if you haven't already done something similar--pull
>out the tension assembly and work some paste wax into the screw thread
>then wipe it off. Once it dries it won't pick up dust like grease
>would, and it makes the mechanism work much more smoothly.

I assume you'd have to wash all the grease out first. With such "fixes" I
always wonder why the manufacturer didn't do that, if it's such a good idea.

On Wed, 13 Jul 2011 07:38:41 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:

>On 7/12/2011 8:03 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
--nothing of consequence--
>>
>As usual you are showing your ignorance in public.

Leon, once you understand the concept, handling trolls is easy.
You simply don't repy to their teasers and you filter them so you
don't see the crap they spew.

--
Happiness lies in the joy of achievement and the thrill of creative effort.
-- Franklin D. Roosevelt

On Wed, 13 Jul 2011 18:59:51 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:

>On 7/13/2011 3:15 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
>> On Wed, 13 Jul 2011 09:52:14 -0500, Leon<lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> On 7/13/2011 9:05 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
>>>> On Wed, 13 Jul 2011 07:38:41 -0500, Leon<lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> On 7/12/2011 8:03 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
>>>> --nothing of consequence--
>>>>>>
>>>>> As usual you are showing your ignorance in public.
>>>>
>>>> Leon, once you understand the concept, handling trolls is easy.
>>>> You simply don't repy to their teasers and you filter them so you
>>>> don't see the crap they spew.
>>>
>>> But the trouble with totally ignoring, some one, a newbe, might believe
>>> what they have to say.
>>>
>>> So when he makes a false statement in regard to what I have said, he is
>>> going to be called on it and corrected.
>>
>> If you had him filtered, you wouldn't have seen it and it wouldn't
>> have bothered you. And newbies learn the hard way that they shouldn't
>> listen to the trolls, so what's the harm. PHAFH.
>>
>
>Explain to me in explicit detail how to filter him in Thunderbird 5.0.

In Agent, it's Ctrl-K and Yes.
Downloading newest T-bird now...
Setting up newsgroups...

Sheeeit, Leon. It's just like setting up a spam filter.

Uckinfay Ozillamay. Ask those idiots how to set it up. It either
doubles my news server url in the filter or doesn't work. <sigh>

Get a real news reader, whydoncha?

--
Happiness lies in the joy of achievement and the thrill of creative effort.
-- Franklin D. Roosevelt

On 7/15/2011 11:59 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 20:35:15 -0500, -MIKE-<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> On 7/15/11 7:31 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>
>>> Boeshield isn't really a lubricant. If anything, it does the opposite.
>>
>> BTW, I have to call BS on that "opposite" statement. :-)
>
> It leaves my saw table more sticky than without it. Since it lives in an
> Alabama garage, sticky isn't the worst of the alternatives, however.
>


I dont in particular care for Boeshield. I have a 12 year old can with
most of it full. Originally I used it on my TS top but found that it
had to be wiped/cleaned off before use. I found it to be more of a
preservative than "top slicker upper". Topcote seems to be the only
thing that I am aware of that goes on easy and needs no other attention.
I seldom wipe the surface off as instructed on the can.

On 7/16/2011 12:05 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 22:30:15 -0500, Leon<lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>
>> On 7/15/2011 7:30 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>> On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 07:43:07 -0500, Leon<lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>>>
>>>> On 7/14/2011 8:08 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>> Snip
>>>>
>>>>>> Just a suggestionm, if you haven't already done something similar--pull
>>>>>> out the tension assembly and work some paste wax into the screw thread
>>>>>> then wipe it off. Once it dries it won't pick up dust like grease
>>>>>> would, and it makes the mechanism work much more smoothly.
>>>>>
>>>>> I assume you'd have to wash all the grease out first. With such "fixes" I
>>>>> always wonder why the manufacturer didn't do that, if it's such a good idea.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Consider most BS's are built in a China related country and using two
>>>> lubricants would affect the cost of the machine. Easier to squirt
>>>> everything with grease than to pay attention to details.
>>>
>>> Ok, what's your Laguna use?
>>
>> Not sure exactly however there was nothing caked up anywhere on the
>> machine. They recommend a Teflon lubricant so I use a product called
>> Triflon. I have only had to apply it once or twice in the last 4 or so
>> years.
>
> Good to know. Thanks. We're taking a trip up to Atlanta tomorrow so I'll
> give the Lagunas in the Woodcraft and Rockler stores a good look.

Keep in mind that Laguna BS'S are built in at least 2 countries, I
suspect that the latest versions might be Aasian. The HD series are
Italian, and the non HD versions used to be build in Bulgaria IIRC. To
the best ofmy knowledge however the guides on all the saws are of the
10 point ceramic variety. If Minimax is there give them a good look too.

"Leon" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...

On 7/13/2011 7:52 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:

>>>
>>
>> Explain to me in explicit detail how to filter him in Thunderbird 5.0.
>
> In Agent, it's Ctrl-K and Yes.
> Downloading newest T-bird now...
> Setting up newsgroups...
>
> Sheeeit, Leon. It's just like setting up a spam filter.
>
> Uckinfay Ozillamay. Ask those idiots how to set it up. It either
> doubles my news server url in the filter or doesn't work.<sigh>
>
> Get a real news reader, whydoncha?
>
> --
> Happiness lies in the joy of achievement and the thrill of creative
> effort.
> -- Franklin D.
> Roosevelt

Ok La-rey the Clark is plonked. ;~)

==================

You are a complete idiot! Take the hook out of your sheeple mouth!

Larry Jaques ***IS*** the troll and uses multiple personalities here to look
like people are on his side! Real woodworkers concentrate on woodworking
here, not "everybody on my side" and hate mongering!

Wake the fuck up, sucker!

mike

"J. Clarke" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...

In article <[email protected]>, lcb11211
@swbelldotnet says...
>
> On 7/13/2011 9:05 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
> > On Wed, 13 Jul 2011 07:38:41 -0500, Leon<lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
> > wrote:
> >
> >> On 7/12/2011 8:03 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
> > --nothing of consequence--
> >>>
> >> As usual you are showing your ignorance in public.
> >
> > Leon, once you understand the concept, handling trolls is easy.
> > You simply don't repy to their teasers and you filter them so you
> > don't see the crap they spew.
> >
> > --
> > Happiness lies in the joy of achievement and the thrill of creative
> > effort.
> > -- Franklin D.
> > Roosevelt
>
> But the trouble with totally ignoring, some one, a newbe, might believe
> what they have to say.
>
> So when he makes a false statement in regard to what I have said, he is
> going to be called on it and corrected.

What I wanna know is how on this "HD band saw" one manages to go from a
1-1/2 inch blade to a 1/8 inch blade without adjusting guides. Does the
1/8 inch blade just ride way back in the back of the guides rubbing its
teeth off them and riding on the edge of the wheel or something?

Every band saw I've ever seen has an upper and lower guide behind the
blade and when you change blades widths that has to be adjusted to the
new width. Is this "HD band saw" not so equipped?

I mean since I'm so horribly wrong on this that I deserve to be
killfiled, I'd really like to know.

---------------------

One of the head henchmen's personalities Larry Jaques pretended to
communicate with his other personalities that he killfiltered you.

You remember when you did the same thing to many others here? Fucking jerk!

SUFO, you're done, again.

mike

On 7/15/2011 7:30 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 07:43:07 -0500, Leon<lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>
>> On 7/14/2011 8:08 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>> Snip
>>
>>>> Just a suggestionm, if you haven't already done something similar--pull
>>>> out the tension assembly and work some paste wax into the screw thread
>>>> then wipe it off. Once it dries it won't pick up dust like grease
>>>> would, and it makes the mechanism work much more smoothly.
>>>
>>> I assume you'd have to wash all the grease out first. With such "fixes" I
>>> always wonder why the manufacturer didn't do that, if it's such a good idea.
>>
>>
>> Consider most BS's are built in a China related country and using two
>> lubricants would affect the cost of the machine. Easier to squirt
>> everything with grease than to pay attention to details.
>
> Ok, what's your Laguna use?

Not sure exactly however there was nothing caked up anywhere on the
machine. They recommend a Teflon lubricant so I use a product called
Triflon. I have only had to apply it once or twice in the last 4 or so
years.

On 7/14/2011 7:27 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Wed, 13 Jul 2011 23:28:20 -0500, Leon<lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
> wrote:
>
>> On 7/13/2011 8:45 PM, dpb wrote:
>>> On 7/13/2011 6:59 PM, Leon wrote:
>>> ...
>>>
>>>> Explain to me in explicit detail how to filter him in Thunderbird 5.0.
>>>
>>> While highlight offending message, under Message menu, "Create Filter
>>> from..."
>>>
>>> Could be made more trivial but it does work...altho afaik only see the
>>> changes when either change the actual group in focus or restart to
>>> rescan groups.
>>>
>>> --
>>>
>>
>> Well thank you. It would never work on TB 3.x
>>
>> I had all kinds of problems with TB 3.x and it seems it was in need of
>> so such an improvement that they skipped 4.x altogether, I think. ;~)
>
> I believe you're right, and no smiley applies.
>
> I'm sorely disappointed in Mozilla of late. The last two upgrades to
> Firefox have eaten my data and broken Firefox. I reverted to v3.6.18
> to get bookmarks, passwords, and the simple back button back.

Are you using 5.0 for FF and TB? I am not having problems with either,


>
> I asked questions on the community forums and got a reply 4 months
> later.

Sounds about right.


>
Snip

. Then I was perfectly happy with Outlook Express until
> they did away with that.

me too.

Snip
>
> WTF is wrong with companies? Why must they phase out their best
> working, best selling (or most downloaded), most enjoyed products?

You get what you pay for.

On 7/14/2011 12:40 PM, Doug Winterburn wrote:
> On 7/14/2011 10:14 AM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
>> On Wed, 13 Jul 2011 23:28:20 -0500, Leon wrote:
>>
>>> Well thank you. It would never work on TB 3.x
>>>
>>> I had all kinds of problems with TB 3.x and it seems it was in need of
>>> so such an improvement that they skipped 4.x altogether, I think. ;~)
>>
>> I'm running 3.04 under Ubuntu Linux and filters work just fine, thank
>> you. Cockpit error? Or is the Windoze version less capable?
>>
>>
> The Windows version works fine (I use linux but SWMBO uses windows). If
> you mark the offending posts as "read" rather than the default "delete",
> all is fine. You can't delete posts by another poster, so the filter
> appears not to work.

You can "now" delete posts by another poster in TB 5.0. and they disappear.

So far TB 5.0 does not have that NAG window indicating an error with
every use. That happened 99% of the time with 3.x although I never saw
any thing wrong other than not being able to delete another posters posts.

In article <[email protected]>, lcb11211
@swbelldotnet says...
>
> On 7/12/2011 3:28 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
> > I'm the proud new owner of a Jet 14" bandsaw (This model, but older
> > http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2002049/22892/Jet-14-Closed-Base-Bandsaw-
> > Model-JWBS14CS.aspx). I plan on resawing and cutting rough timber/firewood
> > for drying. What do I need to know about using the saw?
>
> I would suggest installing ceramic guides over roller bearing guides.
>
> For serious resawing I use a 1.25" blade with 1.2 TPI. Fewer teeth is
> the main focus.
> >
> > Right now, there is a 3/4" blade on it. A 5/16" blade was included as
> > well.
>
> >
> > I had used one back in high school, but it was usually just a turn it on
> > and make a cut operation. There was no thought given to blade tension,
> > guide adjustment other than height, etc.
>
> That is generally all you have to do with the better HD band saws.
> Smaller, less rigid saws tend to have to be treaked more.

Releasing blade tension when not in use is not "tweaking". And "the
better HD band saws" do need the blade tension and guides adjusted when
you change blade widths. If you have to adjust them for every cut
something is wrong.

In article <[email protected]>, lcb11211
@swbelldotnet says...
>
> On 7/13/2011 9:05 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
> > On Wed, 13 Jul 2011 07:38:41 -0500, Leon<lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
> > wrote:
> >
> >> On 7/12/2011 8:03 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
> > --nothing of consequence--
> >>>
> >> As usual you are showing your ignorance in public.
> >
> > Leon, once you understand the concept, handling trolls is easy.
> > You simply don't repy to their teasers and you filter them so you
> > don't see the crap they spew.
> >
> > --
> > Happiness lies in the joy of achievement and the thrill of creative effort.
> > -- Franklin D. Roosevelt
>
> But the trouble with totally ignoring, some one, a newbe, might believe
> what they have to say.
>
> So when he makes a false statement in regard to what I have said, he is
> going to be called on it and corrected.

What I wanna know is how on this "HD band saw" one manages to go from a
1-1/2 inch blade to a 1/8 inch blade without adjusting guides. Does the
1/8 inch blade just ride way back in the back of the guides rubbing its
teeth off them and riding on the edge of the wheel or something?

Every band saw I've ever seen has an upper and lower guide behind the
blade and when you change blades widths that has to be adjusted to the
new width. Is this "HD band saw" not so equipped?

I mean since I'm so horribly wrong on this that I deserve to be
killfiled, I'd really like to know.

In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>
> In article <[email protected]>
> "dadiOH" <[email protected]> writes:
> >Puckdropper wrote:
> >>
> >> Right now, there is a 3/4" blade on it. A 5/16" blade was included as
> >> well.
> >
> >1. Get a 1/2" Woodslicer blade
>
> I had the impression that wider was better for resawing.
> Is there a reason to prefer a 1/2" Woodslicer over a 3/4" Woodslicer?

If the saw you have can tension a 3/4" blade then the 3/4 would be
preferable for resawing. The trouble is that despite what the
advertising for the saw says, most small saws are at the edge of their
capacity with a 3/4 inch blade.

In article <[email protected]>,
Puckdropper says...
>
> "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> > In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
> > says...
> >>
> >> In article <[email protected]>
> >> "dadiOH" <[email protected]> writes:
> >> >Puckdropper wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> Right now, there is a 3/4" blade on it. A 5/16" blade was
> >> >> included as well.
> >> >
> >> >1. Get a 1/2" Woodslicer blade
> >>
> >> I had the impression that wider was better for resawing.
> >> Is there a reason to prefer a 1/2" Woodslicer over a 3/4" Woodslicer?
> >
> > If the saw you have can tension a 3/4" blade then the 3/4 would be
> > preferable for resawing. The trouble is that despite what the
> > advertising for the saw says, most small saws are at the edge of their
> > capacity with a 3/4 inch blade.
> >
>
> I am finding out just how much of my saw is "most saws". It seems the
> design has been copied (with varing degrees of quality) by many different
> companies. I've got a Powermatic riser kit ordered that should fit my
> Jet saw.
>
> Tensioning a 3/4" blade with the top knob on my saw is difficult to say
> the least. The knob is too small to provide a good grip, let alone
> excellent tension. (I found a replacement kit for $15 that should work
> much better.)

Just a suggestionm, if you haven't already done something similar--pull
out the tension assembly and work some paste wax into the screw thread
then wipe it off. Once it dries it won't pick up dust like grease
would, and it makes the mechanism work much more smoothly.

In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>
> On 7/15/11 11:59 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> > On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 20:35:15 -0500, -MIKE-<[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> >> On 7/15/11 7:31 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Boeshield isn't really a lubricant. If anything, it does the opposite.
> >>
> >> BTW, I have to call BS on that "opposite" statement. :-)
> >
> > It leaves my saw table more sticky than without it. Since it lives in an
> > Alabama garage, sticky isn't the worst of the alternatives, however.
> >
>
> T-9? Really? Do you have a Teflon saw table? :-)

T-9 sprayed on and not wiped off before drying remains tacky for a long
time.

On 7/12/2011 11:41 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
> On Tue, 12 Jul 2011 11:56:26 -0500, -MIKE- wrote:
>
>> There's a camp that says practicing this procedure actually decreases
>> the life of the blade, because it accelerates the work hardening of the
>> metal.
>
> That may be true or not, but I suspect the blade would get dull before
> that causes a break. At least I've never had one break. Maybe I'm
> discarding them too soon :-).
>

I would have to agree, a blade changes tension all the time during
operation, it expands when it warms up and contracts when it cools off.

That said, my wife had a blade break on her while cutting 1/8" thick
"card board". Go figger.

On 7/12/2011 4:21 PM, Dr. Deb wrote:
>
> If I had just gotten a new bandsaw, the first thing I would do is get a
> "riser" for it and increase the throat height by 6" (that comes in so handy
> for so many things) Obviously, when you do that you need a new blade - I
> agree with the "Wood Slicer" from Hightland Hardware recommendation. I have
> tried others and have had none that touched the way the Wood Slicer
> performs. As far as releasing the tension, I never do and have had no
> excess wear on the tires. I have had the saw over 10 years I am still on the
> same set of tires and they show no grooving at all at all.
>
> Deb
>

FWIW it is good to hear your tires are still ok after being tensioned
for 10 years. BUT you release the tension to also take the strain off
of the BS frame, bearings, and blade.

On 7/14/2011 3:31 PM, dadiOH wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>> On 7/14/2011 12:40 PM, Doug Winterburn wrote:
>>> On 7/14/2011 10:14 AM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
>>>> On Wed, 13 Jul 2011 23:28:20 -0500, Leon wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Well thank you. It would never work on TB 3.x
>>>>>
>>>>> I had all kinds of problems with TB 3.x and it seems it was in
>>>>> need of so such an improvement that they skipped 4.x altogether, I
>>>>> think. ;~)
>>>>
>>>> I'm running 3.04 under Ubuntu Linux and filters work just fine,
>>>> thank you. Cockpit error? Or is the Windoze version less capable?
>>>>
>>>>
>>> The Windows version works fine (I use linux but SWMBO uses windows).
>>> If you mark the offending posts as "read" rather than the default
>>> "delete", all is fine. You can't delete posts by another poster, so
>>> the filter appears not to work.
>>
>> You can "now" delete posts by another poster in TB 5.0. and they
>> disappear.
>
> From your computer, I am sure. Same in OE. They don't disappear from the
> server though, which doesn't really matter as they are no longer bothering
> you (us) :)
>
Co-wrecked!

On 7/17/2011 5:56 PM, Jack Stein wrote:
> On 7/17/2011 6:34 PM, Leon wrote:
>> On 7/17/2011 5:18 PM, Jack Stein wrote:
>>> On 7/14/2011 2:05 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>
>>>> You can "now" delete posts by another poster in TB 5.0. and they
>>>> disappear.
>>>
>>> Not sure about the filter, but the "delete" item in the menu bar is
>>> greyed out and does not work in TB 5.0 when in a newsgroup. It is not
>>> greyed out, and does work when in an email account. This is by design
>>> far as I know?
>>>
>>> Is yours different?
>>>
>>> 5.0 here...
>>>
>>
>> I am using TB 5.0.
>
> Same here.
>>
>> To delete a sender/poster, click Menu, message drop down, choose Create
>> filter from message.
>
> Yes, I know all that, but in the past, deleting a message didn't work in
> a newsgroup. I'm asking about the menu bar right below the tool bar. You
> can customize it however you want, and one of the items is delete.

Ohhhhhh, That deletes e-mail.



This
> is greyed out when in a newsgroup so you cannot delete the message. I
> would think deleting a message via a filter wouldn't work either.

I'll
> have to try it on someone that looks like a troll... Mr Pounder, yeah
> that looks shaky enough...
>
> ...Yep, now the filter deletes the message just as you say, yet and
> still, the delete tool is greyed out in the menu bar....


Click on/Hi light your in box, and the Delete button will no longer be
greyed out.




>
>

"Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
>>
>> 1. Get a 1/2" Woodslicer blade
>> https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=ed4947a9805111a1&page=play&res
>> id=ED4947A9805111A1!621
>
> What are you linking to?
>
> *snip*
>
>> 7. Reduce tension until you next need to saw
>>
>> Note that wood is going to drift when ripping/resawing; i.e., the wood
>> will want to go through the blade at an angle. That is normal.
>>
>
> Is reducing tension, say two or three twists on the tensioning knob
> sufficient, or should I release it as much as I can?
>
> Puckdropper

Buy or make a handle to replace the knob. I just take four turns off and
put them back on when I'm going to cut again.

I also use a 1/2" woodslicer for resawing. Suites my needs.

On 7/17/2011 5:18 PM, Jack Stein wrote:
> On 7/14/2011 2:05 PM, Leon wrote:
>
>> You can "now" delete posts by another poster in TB 5.0. and they
>> disappear.
>
> Not sure about the filter, but the "delete" item in the menu bar is
> greyed out and does not work in TB 5.0 when in a newsgroup. It is not
> greyed out, and does work when in an email account. This is by design
> far as I know?
>
> Is yours different?
>
> 5.0 here...
>

I am using TB 5.0.

To delete a sender/poster, click Menu, message drop down, choose
Create filter from message.

In the window that drops opens choose the obvious.

Then once the filter is created choose from the Menu, Tools, Message
Filters.

Choose the filter, and at the bottom of this window open the drop down "
Run filters on" and select the correct group. Choose run now.

The key is to ensure you have chosen the correct group.


Not a real quick way but it works.

On 7/12/2011 6:50 AM, Leon wrote:
> On 7/12/2011 3:28 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
>> I'm the proud new owner of a Jet 14" bandsaw (This model, but older
>> http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2002049/22892/Jet-14-Closed-Base-Bandsaw-
>>
>> Model-JWBS14CS.aspx). I plan on resawing and cutting rough
>> timber/firewood
>> for drying. What do I need to know about using the saw?
>
> I would suggest installing ceramic guides over roller bearing guides.
>
> For serious resawing I use a 1.25" blade with 1.2 TPI. Fewer teeth is
> the main focus.
>>
>> Right now, there is a 3/4" blade on it. A 5/16" blade was included as
>> well.
>
>>
>> I had used one back in high school, but it was usually just a turn it on
>> and make a cut operation. There was no thought given to blade tension,
>> guide adjustment other than height, etc.
>
> That is generally all you have to do with the better HD band saws.
> Smaller, less rigid saws tend to have to be treaked more.

LOL... I know but the same principal applies, wider blade, fewer teeth.

On 7/12/2011 8:03 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
> In article<[email protected]>, lcb11211
> @swbelldotnet says...
>>
>> On 7/12/2011 3:28 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
>>> I'm the proud new owner of a Jet 14" bandsaw (This model, but older
>>> http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2002049/22892/Jet-14-Closed-Base-Bandsaw-
>>> Model-JWBS14CS.aspx). I plan on resawing and cutting rough timber/firewood
>>> for drying. What do I need to know about using the saw?
>>
>> I would suggest installing ceramic guides over roller bearing guides.
>>
>> For serious resawing I use a 1.25" blade with 1.2 TPI. Fewer teeth is
>> the main focus.
>>>
>>> Right now, there is a 3/4" blade on it. A 5/16" blade was included as
>>> well.
>>
>>>
>>> I had used one back in high school, but it was usually just a turn it on
>>> and make a cut operation. There was no thought given to blade tension,
>>> guide adjustment other than height, etc.
>>
>> That is generally all you have to do with the better HD band saws.
>> Smaller, less rigid saws tend to have to be treaked more.
>
> Releasing blade tension when not in use is not "tweaking". And "the
> better HD band saws" do need the blade tension and guides adjusted when
> you change blade widths. If you have to adjust them for every cut
> something is wrong.
>
>
As usual you are showing your ignorance in public.
Did any one say anything about not releasing the blade tension? No,
only you.
It is not at all unusual for the cheaper built BS's to have to be
tweaked "during" a cutting operation.

Did any one say you have to tweak for every cut? No only you. I said
the smaller less ridgid saws tend to have to be tweaked more.

Many BS's are not sturdy enough to hold the upper wheel tilt setting
through out a cutting operation. Yes their frames bend from the blade
tension. Read that as a 20-30+ minute cutting operation.
Basically many cheaper BS's are not built strongly enough to hold their
settings.

And FYI upper end HD band saw's DO NOT necessarily need to have the
guides adjusted when going from a narrower blade, adjusted for that
blade, to a wider blade. In fact the upper end HD BS's can easily run
with out guides at all. Yes they hold their tracking that well. Further
I almost never have to readjust my upper wheel tilt when going from a
1/2" blade to a 1.25" wide blade and or back again. Try that on a just
about any Home Depot grade BS. Blade tension on HD BS's is much much
less of a necessary adjustment, the blade tends to cut as well at one
blade tension setting as another setting for the same blade. So when
you have been running the saw for 20-30= minutes or during a resawing
operation and the blade becomes longer because of the heat build up
retensioning and upper wheel tilt adjustment during the operation is not
generally needed.

So to requote the OP's paragraph,

>>>I had used one back in high school, but it was usually just a turn
>>>it on and make a cut operation. There was no thought given to blade
>>>tension, guide adjustment other than height, etc.

This is exactly what I do with my HD BS. I don't worry about blades
cooling off, getting hot, readjusting, etc. I tension the blade at the
beginning of the day and release the tension at the end of the day.

So why don't you purchase a HD series MiniMax, Laguna or similar BS and
compare it to "YOUR" BS and see which one you want to use more and get
back to us with your findings.

Feeding concluded.

On 7/13/2011 8:45 PM, dpb wrote:
> On 7/13/2011 6:59 PM, Leon wrote:
> ...
>
>> Explain to me in explicit detail how to filter him in Thunderbird 5.0.
>
> While highlight offending message, under Message menu, "Create Filter
> from..."
>
> Could be made more trivial but it does work...altho afaik only see the
> changes when either change the actual group in focus or restart to
> rescan groups.
>
> --
>

Well thank you. It would never work on TB 3.x

I had all kinds of problems with TB 3.x and it seems it was in need of
so such an improvement that they skipped 4.x altogether, I think. ;~)

On 7/13/2011 7:52 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Wed, 13 Jul 2011 18:59:51 -0500, Leon<lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
> wrote:
>
>> On 7/13/2011 3:15 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
>>> On Wed, 13 Jul 2011 09:52:14 -0500, Leon<lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> On 7/13/2011 9:05 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
>>>>> On Wed, 13 Jul 2011 07:38:41 -0500, Leon<lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> On 7/12/2011 8:03 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
>>>>> --nothing of consequence--
>>>>>>>
>>>>>> As usual you are showing your ignorance in public.
>>>>>
>>>>> Leon, once you understand the concept, handling trolls is easy.
>>>>> You simply don't repy to their teasers and you filter them so you
>>>>> don't see the crap they spew.
>>>>
>>>> But the trouble with totally ignoring, some one, a newbe, might believe
>>>> what they have to say.
>>>>
>>>> So when he makes a false statement in regard to what I have said, he is
>>>> going to be called on it and corrected.
>>>
>>> If you had him filtered, you wouldn't have seen it and it wouldn't
>>> have bothered you. And newbies learn the hard way that they shouldn't
>>> listen to the trolls, so what's the harm. PHAFH.
>>>
>>
>> Explain to me in explicit detail how to filter him in Thunderbird 5.0.
>
> In Agent, it's Ctrl-K and Yes.
> Downloading newest T-bird now...
> Setting up newsgroups...
>
> Sheeeit, Leon. It's just like setting up a spam filter.
>
> Uckinfay Ozillamay. Ask those idiots how to set it up. It either
> doubles my news server url in the filter or doesn't work.<sigh>
>
> Get a real news reader, whydoncha?

I have no problem with my news reader, you were the one that suggested
the adjustment. I was simply asking you how you wanted me to make that
adjustment.

On 7/13/2011 7:52 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:

>>>
>>
>> Explain to me in explicit detail how to filter him in Thunderbird 5.0.
>
> In Agent, it's Ctrl-K and Yes.
> Downloading newest T-bird now...
> Setting up newsgroups...
>
> Sheeeit, Leon. It's just like setting up a spam filter.
>
> Uckinfay Ozillamay. Ask those idiots how to set it up. It either
> doubles my news server url in the filter or doesn't work.<sigh>
>
> Get a real news reader, whydoncha?
>
> --
> Happiness lies in the joy of achievement and the thrill of creative effort.
> -- Franklin D. Roosevelt

Ok La-rey the Clark is plonked. ;~)

"Leon" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...

On 7/12/2011 11:41 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
> On Tue, 12 Jul 2011 11:56:26 -0500, -MIKE- wrote:
>
>> There's a camp that says practicing this procedure actually decreases
>> the life of the blade, because it accelerates the work hardening of the
>> metal.
>
> That may be true or not, but I suspect the blade would get dull before
> that causes a break. At least I've never had one break. Maybe I'm
> discarding them too soon :-).
>

I would have to agree, a blade changes tension all the time during
operation, it expands when it warms up and contracts when it cools off.

That said, my wife had a blade break on her while cutting 1/8" thick
"card board". Go figger.

----------------------

The blade bends and straightens every time it goes over a pulley and then
through the cutting zone. I doubt a little tension change does more than
that.

mike

On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 07:43:07 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:

>On 7/14/2011 8:08 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>Snip
>
>>> Just a suggestionm, if you haven't already done something similar--pull
>>> out the tension assembly and work some paste wax into the screw thread
>>> then wipe it off. Once it dries it won't pick up dust like grease
>>> would, and it makes the mechanism work much more smoothly.
>>
>> I assume you'd have to wash all the grease out first. With such "fixes" I
>> always wonder why the manufacturer didn't do that, if it's such a good idea.
>
>
>Consider most BS's are built in a China related country and using two
>lubricants would affect the cost of the machine. Easier to squirt
>everything with grease than to pay attention to details.

Ok, what's your Laguna use?

If I had just gotten a new bandsaw, the first thing I would do is get a
"riser" for it and increase the throat height by 6" (that comes in so handy
for so many things) Obviously, when you do that you need a new blade - I
agree with the "Wood Slicer" from Hightland Hardware recommendation. I have
tried others and have had none that touched the way the Wood Slicer
performs. As far as releasing the tension, I never do and have had no
excess wear on the tires. I have had the saw over 10 years I am still on the
same set of tires and they show no grooving at all at all.

Deb





wrote:

> I'm the proud new owner of a Jet 14" bandsaw (This model, but older
> http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2002049/22892/Jet-14-Closed-Base-Bandsaw-
> Model-JWBS14CS.aspx). I plan on resawing and cutting rough
> timber/firewood
> for drying. What do I need to know about using the saw?
>
> Right now, there is a 3/4" blade on it. A 5/16" blade was included as
> well.
>
> I had used one back in high school, but it was usually just a turn it on
> and make a cut operation. There was no thought given to blade tension,
> guide adjustment other than height, etc.
>
> Puckdropper

On 7/14/2011 8:08 PM, [email protected] wrote:
Snip

>> Just a suggestionm, if you haven't already done something similar--pull
>> out the tension assembly and work some paste wax into the screw thread
>> then wipe it off. Once it dries it won't pick up dust like grease
>> would, and it makes the mechanism work much more smoothly.
>
> I assume you'd have to wash all the grease out first. With such "fixes" I
> always wonder why the manufacturer didn't do that, if it's such a good idea.


Consider most BS's are built in a China related country and using two
lubricants would affect the cost of the machine. Easier to squirt
everything with grease than to pay attention to details.

On 7/13/2011 3:15 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Wed, 13 Jul 2011 09:52:14 -0500, Leon<lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
> wrote:
>
>> On 7/13/2011 9:05 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
>>> On Wed, 13 Jul 2011 07:38:41 -0500, Leon<lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> On 7/12/2011 8:03 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
>>> --nothing of consequence--
>>>>>
>>>> As usual you are showing your ignorance in public.
>>>
>>> Leon, once you understand the concept, handling trolls is easy.
>>> You simply don't repy to their teasers and you filter them so you
>>> don't see the crap they spew.
>>
>> But the trouble with totally ignoring, some one, a newbe, might believe
>> what they have to say.
>>
>> So when he makes a false statement in regard to what I have said, he is
>> going to be called on it and corrected.
>
> If you had him filtered, you wouldn't have seen it and it wouldn't
> have bothered you. And newbies learn the hard way that they shouldn't
> listen to the trolls, so what's the harm. PHAFH.
>
> --
> Happiness lies in the joy of achievement and the thrill of creative effort.
> -- Franklin D. Roosevelt

Explain to me in explicit detail how to filter him in Thunderbird 5.0.

On Sat, 16 Jul 2011 07:13:00 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:

>On 7/15/2011 11:59 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>> On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 20:35:15 -0500, -MIKE-<[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> On 7/15/11 7:31 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Boeshield isn't really a lubricant. If anything, it does the opposite.
>>>
>>> BTW, I have to call BS on that "opposite" statement. :-)
>>
>> It leaves my saw table more sticky than without it. Since it lives in an
>> Alabama garage, sticky isn't the worst of the alternatives, however.
>>
>
>
>I dont in particular care for Boeshield. I have a 12 year old can with
>most of it full. Originally I used it on my TS top but found that it
>had to be wiped/cleaned off before use. I found it to be more of a
>preservative than "top slicker upper". Topcote seems to be the only
>thing that I am aware of that goes on easy and needs no other attention.
> I seldom wipe the surface off as instructed on the can.

When I got the saw I was waffling between Topcoat and Boeshield (after reading
this group ;). I decided to go with Boeshield but I did put it on with the
"heavy treatment" instructions (since have slacked off toward a thinner coat).
It's done its job in keeping the top rust free (though there are some marks on
it) but it's certainly not as "slick" as the bare cast iron.

Puckdropper wrote:
> I'm the proud new owner of a Jet 14" bandsaw (This model, but older
> http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2002049/22892/Jet-14-Closed-Base-Bandsaw-
> Model-JWBS14CS.aspx). I plan on resawing and cutting rough
> timber/firewood for drying. What do I need to know about using the
> saw?
>
> Right now, there is a 3/4" blade on it. A 5/16" blade was included as
> well.

1. Get a 1/2" Woodslicer blade
https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=ed4947a9805111a1&page=play&resid=ED4947A9805111A1!621

2. Assure wheels are in same plane

3. Adjust tension until blade starts to shimmy, then back off until it stops
(doing so)

4. Adjust upper wheel tilt if blade does not ride on or near the crown.

5. Set upper and lower guides just aft of teeth; adjust back bearing a RCH
back of the blade.

6. Saw

7. Reduce tension until you next need to saw

Note that wood is going to drift when ripping/resawing; i.e., the wood will
want to go through the blade at an angle. That is normal.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Puckdropper wrote:
> "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>>
>> 1. Get a 1/2" Woodslicer blade
>> https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=ed4947a9805111a1&page=play&res
>> id=ED4947A9805111A1!621
>
> What are you linking to?

One of the very best resaw blades for small bandsaws. No idea how that URL
got there, this is the correct one
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodslicer-resaw-bandsaw-blades.aspx

____________________

> *snip*
>
>> 7. Reduce tension until you next need to saw
>>
>> Note that wood is going to drift when ripping/resawing; i.e., the
>> wood will want to go through the blade at an angle. That is normal.
>>
>
> Is reducing tension, say two or three twists on the tensioning knob
> sufficient, or should I release it as much as I can?

I make it good and floppy...about 2 1/2 full turns. Just do the same each
time so you can retension it by reversing the number of turns.



--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On 7/12/11 11:14 AM, dadiOH wrote:
> Puckdropper wrote:
>> "dadiOH"<[email protected]> wrote in
>
>> *snip*
>>
>>> 7. Reduce tension until you next need to saw
>>>
>>> Note that wood is going to drift when ripping/resawing; i.e., the
>>> wood will want to go through the blade at an angle. That is normal.
>>>
>>
>> Is reducing tension, say two or three twists on the tensioning knob
>> sufficient, or should I release it as much as I can?
>
> I make it good and floppy...about 2 1/2 full turns. Just do the same each
> time so you can retension it by reversing the number of turns.
>

Just for the sake of discussion...
There's a camp that says practicing this procedure actually decreases
the life of the blade, because it accelerates the work hardening of the
metal. Tension, release, tension, release, tension, release, over and
over again acts like the old bending a paper clip until it breaks
illustration.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

-MIKE- wrote:
> On 7/12/11 11:14 AM, dadiOH wrote:
>> Puckdropper wrote:
>>> "dadiOH"<[email protected]> wrote in
>>
>>> *snip*
>>>
>>>> 7. Reduce tension until you next need to saw
>>>>
>>>> Note that wood is going to drift when ripping/resawing; i.e., the
>>>> wood will want to go through the blade at an angle. That is normal.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Is reducing tension, say two or three twists on the tensioning knob
>>> sufficient, or should I release it as much as I can?
>>
>> I make it good and floppy...about 2 1/2 full turns. Just do the same each
>> time so you can retension it by reversing the number of turns.
>>
>
> Just for the sake of discussion...
> There's a camp that says practicing this procedure actually decreases
> the life of the blade, because it accelerates the work hardening of the
> metal. Tension, release, tension, release, tension, release, over and
> over again acts like the old bending a paper clip until it breaks
> illustration.

Since this is just for the sake of discussion: The effects from adding
and releasing the tension of the blame seem (to me) utterly trivial
compared to the work hardening that is done when the blade moves, like a
pulley, around the BS wheels when the saw is running. You could pull
(and release) both ends of a straight piece of wire all year and I don't
think it would any the worse for wear. This may be related to steel
having a high tensile-strength, but I don't think this accounts for the
wear concerned with here.

The spot on the blade where it is welded may more likely give in a
repeated tension-release cycle. I do not know enough to know.

Bill

On Tue, 12 Jul 2011 11:56:26 -0500, -MIKE- wrote:

> There's a camp that says practicing this procedure actually decreases
> the life of the blade, because it accelerates the work hardening of the
> metal.

That may be true or not, but I suspect the blade would get dull before
that causes a break. At least I've never had one break. Maybe I'm
discarding them too soon :-).

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On Tue, 12 Jul 2011 06:50:11 -0500, Leon wrote:

> For serious resawing I use a 1.25" blade with 1.2 TPI.

The O/P bought a 14" bandsaw, not whatever monolithic monster you
have :-).

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On 7/13/2011 6:59 PM, Leon wrote:
...

> Explain to me in explicit detail how to filter him in Thunderbird 5.0.

While highlight offending message, under Message menu, "Create Filter
from..."

Could be made more trivial but it does work...altho afaik only see the
changes when either change the actual group in focus or restart to
rescan groups.

--

In article <[email protected]>
"dadiOH" <[email protected]> writes:
>Puckdropper wrote:
>>
>> Right now, there is a 3/4" blade on it. A 5/16" blade was included as
>> well.
>
>1. Get a 1/2" Woodslicer blade

I had the impression that wider was better for resawing.
Is there a reason to prefer a 1/2" Woodslicer over a 3/4" Woodslicer?


--
Drew Lawson What would Brian Boitano do?

On Wed, 13 Jul 2011 23:28:20 -0500, Leon wrote:

> Well thank you. It would never work on TB 3.x
>
> I had all kinds of problems with TB 3.x and it seems it was in need of
> so such an improvement that they skipped 4.x altogether, I think. ;~)

I'm running 3.04 under Ubuntu Linux and filters work just fine, thank
you. Cockpit error? Or is the Windoze version less capable?


--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

Leon wrote:
> On 7/14/2011 12:40 PM, Doug Winterburn wrote:
>> On 7/14/2011 10:14 AM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
>>> On Wed, 13 Jul 2011 23:28:20 -0500, Leon wrote:
>>>
>>>> Well thank you. It would never work on TB 3.x
>>>>
>>>> I had all kinds of problems with TB 3.x and it seems it was in
>>>> need of so such an improvement that they skipped 4.x altogether, I
>>>> think. ;~)
>>>
>>> I'm running 3.04 under Ubuntu Linux and filters work just fine,
>>> thank you. Cockpit error? Or is the Windoze version less capable?
>>>
>>>
>> The Windows version works fine (I use linux but SWMBO uses windows).
>> If you mark the offending posts as "read" rather than the default
>> "delete", all is fine. You can't delete posts by another poster, so
>> the filter appears not to work.
>
> You can "now" delete posts by another poster in TB 5.0. and they
> disappear.

From your computer, I am sure. Same in OE. They don't disappear from the
server though, which doesn't really matter as they are no longer bothering
you (us) :)

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On Thu, 14 Jul 2011 10:40:00 -0700, Doug Winterburn wrote:

> I'm running 3.04 under Ubuntu Linux and filters work just fine, thank
>> you. Cockpit error? Or is the Windoze version less capable?
>>
>>
> The Windows version works fine (I use linux but SWMBO uses windows). If
> you mark the offending posts as "read" rather than the default "delete",
> all is fine. You can't delete posts by another poster, so the filter
> appears not to work.

I don't use Tbird for news, only for mail, so I was basing my post on how
it worked for mail. But I can see why it wouldn't work for news. BTW, I
added a "Received" option to the filter choices in Tbird. That way I can
filter out any mail from China, Russia, etc..

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On 7/12/2011 12:53 PM, Gordon Shumway wrote:
> On 12 Jul 2011 15:41:40 GMT, Puckdropper wrote:
>
>> Is reducing tension, say two or three twists on the tensioning knob
>> sufficient, or should I release it as much as I can?

> The purpose of reducing the tension is to eliminate the blade putting
> pressure on, and creating grooves in, the tires prematurely.

My BS has had full tension on it for 35 years. I'd bet money the guy I
bought it off of did not release the tension in the 27 years he had it
either. I replaced the tires when I bought it because they looked old
and crackled. Not saying not to release tension, but, just saying.

My blade of choice is a 3/16th inch skip tooth blade I use for
everything, including cutting fire wood and resawing. If my tires
lasted 35 years with mostly narrow blades, I would think a fat 1/2 or
3/4" blade would do even less damage to the tires, if that's possible.

My saw tracks 100% perfecto, never needs adjusted other than when
changing blades.

> As far as the tension is concerned I have noticed no difference when
> the adjustment is off a few turns one way or the other. Others may
> comment on their experience on that aspect.

Also my experience. I adjust tension until I think it feels right, and
for past 35 years, it's been pretty right, far as I can tell. I ignore
the blade tension gauge completely.

I think another reason, (that I've ignored) is the spring. If you keep
tension on the spring, I guess the spring could lose it's spring? The
spring helps keep blades from breaking I reckon, but I don't break even
skinny blades, so that's been a non-issue to me as well.

--
Jack
You Can't Fix Stupid, but You Can Vote it Out!
http://jbstein.com

On Thu, 14 Jul 2011 20:01:26 -0400, J. Clarke wrote:

> Just a suggestionm, if you haven't already done something similar--pull
> out the tension assembly and work some paste wax into the screw thread
> then wipe it off. Once it dries it won't pick up dust like grease
> would, and it makes the mechanism work much more smoothly.

Or one of the dry lubes like Boeshield.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On 7/15/2011 8:31 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 20:01:51 +0000 (UTC), Larry Blanchard
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> On Thu, 14 Jul 2011 20:01:26 -0400, J. Clarke wrote:
>>
>>> Just a suggestionm, if you haven't already done something similar--pull
>>> out the tension assembly and work some paste wax into the screw thread
>>> then wipe it off. Once it dries it won't pick up dust like grease
>>> would, and it makes the mechanism work much more smoothly.
>>
>> Or one of the dry lubes like Boeshield.
>
> Boeshield isn't really a lubricant. If anything, it does the opposite.

Tell that to Boeshield....

--
Jack
You Can't Fix Stupid, but You Can Vote it Out!
http://jbstein.com

On 7/15/11 7:31 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 20:01:51 +0000 (UTC), Larry Blanchard
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> On Thu, 14 Jul 2011 20:01:26 -0400, J. Clarke wrote:
>>
>>> Just a suggestionm, if you haven't already done something similar--pull
>>> out the tension assembly and work some paste wax into the screw thread
>>> then wipe it off. Once it dries it won't pick up dust like grease
>>> would, and it makes the mechanism work much more smoothly.
>>
>> Or one of the dry lubes like Boeshield.
>
> Boeshield isn't really a lubricant. If anything, it does the opposite.

It's a paraffin wax. Whether or not that's a lubricant is debatable.

As much as the old timers love to spend all day waxing their tool tops,
I would think they'd be flocking to Boeshield.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 7/15/11 7:31 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>
> Boeshield isn't really a lubricant. If anything, it does the opposite.

BTW, I have to call BS on that "opposite" statement. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 7/15/11 11:59 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 20:35:15 -0500, -MIKE-<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> On 7/15/11 7:31 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>
>>> Boeshield isn't really a lubricant. If anything, it does the opposite.
>>
>> BTW, I have to call BS on that "opposite" statement. :-)
>
> It leaves my saw table more sticky than without it. Since it lives in an
> Alabama garage, sticky isn't the worst of the alternatives, however.
>

T-9? Really? Do you have a Teflon saw table? :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 7/15/11 11:59 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 20:35:15 -0500, -MIKE-<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> On 7/15/11 7:31 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>
>>> Boeshield isn't really a lubricant. If anything, it does the opposite.
>>
>> BTW, I have to call BS on that "opposite" statement. :-)
>
> It leaves my saw table more sticky than without it. Since it lives in an
> Alabama garage, sticky isn't the worst of the alternatives, however.
>

BTW, where are in AL? I get down there on gigs quite often.
Would love to meet up in person.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 7/16/11 11:18 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
> In article<[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>>
>> On 7/15/11 11:59 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>> On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 20:35:15 -0500, -MIKE-<[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> On 7/15/11 7:31 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Boeshield isn't really a lubricant. If anything, it does the opposite.
>>>>
>>>> BTW, I have to call BS on that "opposite" statement. :-)
>>>
>>> It leaves my saw table more sticky than without it. Since it lives in an
>>> Alabama garage, sticky isn't the worst of the alternatives, however.
>>>
>>
>> T-9? Really? Do you have a Teflon saw table? :-)
>
> T-9 sprayed on and not wiped off before drying remains tacky for a long
> time.
>

Heavy coat instructions say to spray without wiping, which is obviously
what you are doing.

I've always followed the instructions for a light coating and wiped
after spraying. (insert joke, here) I may try a heavy coat on something
like my jointer just to try to duplicate your results.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 20:31:29 -0500, -MIKE- wrote:

>>> Or one of the dry lubes like Boeshield.
>>
>> Boeshield isn't really a lubricant. If anything, it does the opposite.
>
> It's a paraffin wax. Whether or not that's a lubricant is debatable.

I was using Boeshield in a generic sense to represent spray on dry
lubricants because I couldn't remember the name of the specific product
I've been using. Guess I should have gone out to the shop and looked
before posting :-).

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On 7/16/11 12:28 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
> On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 20:31:29 -0500, -MIKE- wrote:
>
>>>> Or one of the dry lubes like Boeshield.
>>>
>>> Boeshield isn't really a lubricant. If anything, it does the opposite.
>>
>> It's a paraffin wax. Whether or not that's a lubricant is debatable.
>
> I was using Boeshield in a generic sense to represent spray on dry
> lubricants because I couldn't remember the name of the specific product
> I've been using. Guess I should have gone out to the shop and looked
> before posting :-).
>

I can say with certainly that you used Kleenex® to wipe it off. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 7/13/2011 10:05 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>
>> On 7/12/2011 8:03 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
> --nothing of consequence--
>>>
>> As usual you are showing your ignorance in public.
>
> Leon, once you understand the concept, handling trolls is easy.
> You simply don't repy to their teasers and you filter them so you
> don't see the crap they spew.

Larry, just because people disagree with stuff and are not afraid to put
it in writing doesn't mean they are trolls. krw is not a troll, J.
Clark is not a troll? Trolls always use fake names, are not at all
interested in anything related to the newsgroup, and often work in
teams, and/or take on multiple personalities for the sole purpose of
disrupting a group. 99% of the time you can spot a real troll easily by
the name, and the content of the post. If you think these two are
trolls, you need to think harder.

It's true that ignoring trolls, or anyone you disagree with, will make
your on line life quicker and easier... But boring as hell.

--
Jack
Knowledge is knowing a tomato is a fruit;
Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.

http://jbstein.com

On 7/14/2011 9:01 AM, Leon wrote:

>> I'm sorely disappointed in Mozilla of late. The last two upgrades to
>> Firefox have eaten my data and broken Firefox. I reverted to v3.6.18
>> to get bookmarks, passwords, and the simple back button back.
>
> Are you using 5.0 for FF and TB? I am not having problems with either,

I had no problems before. I can't say I'm thrilled with versions 5.0,
but problems are very minor, and not unexpected in any .0 release.

For example, in the past, I could right click on your name in the upper
right of your *opened* message, and the drop down menu included "create
filter from..." That no longer works (for me).

The "create filter from..." is still there, but it is greyed out and
doesn't do anything. Same with the drop down in the message tool bar
when in an *opened* message.

I have to use the message tool bar drop down from a *closed* message in
the message list.

I haven't had any of the problems Larry is having however.

--
Jack
Got Change: Now CHANGE IT BACK!
http://jbstein.com

On 7/14/2011 2:05 PM, Leon wrote:

> You can "now" delete posts by another poster in TB 5.0. and they disappear.

Not sure about the filter, but the "delete" item in the menu bar is
greyed out and does not work in TB 5.0 when in a newsgroup. It is not
greyed out, and does work when in an email account. This is by design
far as I know?

Is yours different?

5.0 here...

--
Jack
Got Change: Democratic Republic ======> Banana Republic!
http://jbstein.com

On 7/14/2011 9:08 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Thu, 14 Jul 2011 20:01:26 -0400, "J. Clarke"<[email protected]> wrote:

>> Just a suggestionm, if you haven't already done something similar--pull
>> out the tension assembly and work some paste wax into the screw thread
>> then wipe it off. Once it dries it won't pick up dust like grease
>> would, and it makes the mechanism work much more smoothly.
>
> I assume you'd have to wash all the grease out first. With such "fixes" I
> always wonder why the manufacturer didn't do that, if it's such a good idea.

When I got my planer the segmented head was packed with some god awful
grease goop that was almost impossible to get out of every nook and
cranny of a segmented 72 tooth head. They could have sprayed the damned
thing with Topcote and I wouldn't have needed to spend 4 hours digging
out grease. They used a ton of it too, and probably would have been
cheaper and easier to use Topcote, or similar item. I nicked a finger
doing it as well... I shoulda sued the bastards...

--
Jack
Living is like licking honey off a thorn!
http://jbstein.com

On 7/17/2011 2:04 PM, [email protected] wrote:

> When I got the saw I was waffling between Topcoat and Boeshield (after reading
> this group ;). I decided to go with Boeshield but I did put it on with the
> "heavy treatment" instructions (since have slacked off toward a thinner coat).
> It's done its job in keeping the top rust free (though there are some marks on
> it) but it's certainly not as "slick" as the bare cast iron.

Topcote is slick as can be, far slicker than bare cast iron, slicker
than waxed iron. When I bought it I was waffling too, but the tool
store I bought it from only had TopCote. After this thread, it seems
they made the right decision for me...

--
Jack
You Can't Fix Stupid, but You Can Vote it Out!
http://jbstein.com

On 7/17/2011 6:34 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 7/17/2011 5:18 PM, Jack Stein wrote:
>> On 7/14/2011 2:05 PM, Leon wrote:
>>
>>> You can "now" delete posts by another poster in TB 5.0. and they
>>> disappear.
>>
>> Not sure about the filter, but the "delete" item in the menu bar is
>> greyed out and does not work in TB 5.0 when in a newsgroup. It is not
>> greyed out, and does work when in an email account. This is by design
>> far as I know?
>>
>> Is yours different?
>>
>> 5.0 here...
>>
>
> I am using TB 5.0.

Same here.
>
> To delete a sender/poster, click Menu, message drop down, choose Create
> filter from message.

Yes, I know all that, but in the past, deleting a message didn't work in
a newsgroup. I'm asking about the menu bar right below the tool bar.
You can customize it however you want, and one of the items is delete.
This is greyed out when in a newsgroup so you cannot delete the message.
I would think deleting a message via a filter wouldn't work either.
I'll have to try it on someone that looks like a troll... Mr Pounder,
yeah that looks shaky enough...

...Yep, now the filter deletes the message just as you say, yet and
still, the delete tool is greyed out in the menu bar....

I hope the sucker was a troll, cause the message sure enough is gone...
I prefer to mark them as read myself, just in case.

>
> In the window that drops opens choose the obvious.
>
> Then once the filter is created choose from the Menu, Tools, Message
> Filters.
>
> Choose the filter, and at the bottom of this window open the drop down "
> Run filters on" and select the correct group. Choose run now.
>
> The key is to ensure you have chosen the correct group.
>
>
> Not a real quick way but it works.


--
Jack
You Can't Fix Stupid, but You Can Vote it Out!
http://jbstein.com

On 7/17/2011 6:52 PM, Leon wrote:

>> Topcote is slick as can be, far slicker than bare cast iron, slicker
>> than waxed iron. When I bought it I was waffling too, but the tool store
>> I bought it from only had TopCote. After this thread, it seems they made
>> the right decision for me...

> And if you like TopCote you might love Empire TopSaver. They originally
> produced TopCote and have in recent years started making a similar
> product again. I used Empire Top Saver, or what ever they called it,
> back in the early 80's. It as a superior top slicker upper and as a side
> benefit, one which they did not claim, it prevented rust. Now they make
> the rust prevention claim.

> I personally TopCote now, it is about 2/3's the cost of the Empire product.

I don't use my tools as much as I once did, but it seems to me that Top
Cote works about the same as the 3M stuff I used in the 70's and 80's,
but does not seem as durable.(subject to aged memory) When I used my
tools every day, it lasted about 6 months.(also subject to aged memory)

TopCote seems a bit less, and I use my tools far less. Still, I bought
two cans a few years ago, and still have some left in one can, and a
whole can untouched. Takes me all of 10 seconds to recoat my table saw,
my biggest table, so I'm more than happy with TopCote. I paid 9.99 a
can when I bought it.

--
Jack
A clear conscience is usually the sign of a bad memory.
http://jbstein.com

On 7/17/2011 11:11 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 7/17/2011 5:56 PM, Jack Stein wrote:
>> On 7/17/2011 6:34 PM, Leon wrote:
>>> On 7/17/2011 5:18 PM, Jack Stein wrote:
>>>> On 7/14/2011 2:05 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> You can "now" delete posts by another poster in TB 5.0. and they
>>>>> disappear.
>>>>
>>>> Not sure about the filter, but the "delete" item in the menu bar is
>>>> greyed out and does not work in TB 5.0 when in a newsgroup. It is not
>>>> greyed out, and does work when in an email account. This is by design
>>>> far as I know?
>>>>
>>>> Is yours different?
>>>>
>>>> 5.0 here...
>>>>
>>>
>>> I am using TB 5.0.
>>
>> Same here.
>>>
>>> To delete a sender/poster, click Menu, message drop down, choose Create
>>> filter from message.
>>
>> Yes, I know all that, but in the past, deleting a message didn't work in
>> a newsgroup. I'm asking about the menu bar right below the tool bar. You
>> can customize it however you want, and one of the items is delete.
>
> Ohhhhhh, That deletes e-mail.
>
>
>
> This
>> is greyed out when in a newsgroup so you cannot delete the message. I
>> would think deleting a message via a filter wouldn't work either.

> Click on/Hi light your in box, and the Delete button will no longer be
> greyed out.

Yes, the inbox is email, newsgroups are a separate account and the
delete button is greyed out in newsgroups, supposedly because you cannot
delete messages from a newsgroup. This was consistent in both the menu
bar and in the message filters, but in 5.0, it's no longer consistent,
you can delete them with a filter, but not from the menu bar. A minor
issue, bigger one is I can no longer create a filter from an opened message.

--
Jack
Got Change: Now CHANGE IT BACK!
http://jbstein.com

On 7/16/11 11:18 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
>>> It leaves my saw table more sticky than without it. Since it lives in an
>>> Alabama garage, sticky isn't the worst of the alternatives, however.
>>>
>>
>> T-9? Really? Do you have a Teflon saw table? :-)
>
> T-9 sprayed on and not wiped off before drying remains tacky for a long
> time.
>

I did this to my bandsaw table and you are absolutely correct.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 7/17/11 1:04 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Sat, 16 Jul 2011 07:13:00 -0500, Leon<lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>> I dont in particular care for Boeshield. I have a 12 year old can with
>> most of it full. Originally I used it on my TS top but found that it
>> had to be wiped/cleaned off before use. I found it to be more of a
>> preservative than "top slicker upper". Topcote seems to be the only
>> thing that I am aware of that goes on easy and needs no other attention.
>> I seldom wipe the surface off as instructed on the can.
>
> When I got the saw I was waffling between Topcoat and Boeshield (after reading
> this group ;). I decided to go with Boeshield but I did put it on with the
> "heavy treatment" instructions (since have slacked off toward a thinner coat).
> It's done its job in keeping the top rust free (though there are some marks on
> it) but it's certainly not as "slick" as the bare cast iron.

I retreated my bandsaw table the other day to try to get the results you
guys are talking about and you are both correct. What is on there now is
definitely slightly tacky and is way less slick than the bare cast iron
top.

What I have been using that doesn't need any other effort than spraying
is Superlube Dri-Film. But I suspect this product may have silicone,
which is supposed to be a no-no for wood contact.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 7/18/11 2:22 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> What I have been using that doesn't need any other effort than spraying
> is Superlube Dri-Film. But I suspect this product may have silicone,
> which is supposed to be a no-no for wood contact.
>

Apparently it does not contain silicone. I'm going to try this on the
saw top..... which I'm beginning to recollect I may have already done
and posted about a while back. Memory's the first to go, they say.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 12 Jul 2011 15:41:40 GMT, Puckdropper
<puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:

>Is reducing tension, say two or three twists on the tensioning knob
>sufficient, or should I release it as much as I can?
>
>Puckdropper

The purpose of reducing the tension is to eliminate the blade putting
pressure on, and creating grooves in, the tires prematurely.
Therefore, you would need to release as much as you can until the
blade is completely loose.

As far as the tension is concerned I have noticed no difference when
the adjustment is off a few turns one way or the other. Others may
comment on their experience on that aspect.

Happy sawing.

On Wed, 13 Jul 2011 09:52:14 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:

>On 7/13/2011 9:05 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
>> On Wed, 13 Jul 2011 07:38:41 -0500, Leon<lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> On 7/12/2011 8:03 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
>> --nothing of consequence--
>>>>
>>> As usual you are showing your ignorance in public.
>>
>> Leon, once you understand the concept, handling trolls is easy.
>> You simply don't repy to their teasers and you filter them so you
>> don't see the crap they spew.
>
>But the trouble with totally ignoring, some one, a newbe, might believe
>what they have to say.
>
>So when he makes a false statement in regard to what I have said, he is
>going to be called on it and corrected.

If you had him filtered, you wouldn't have seen it and it wouldn't
have bothered you. And newbies learn the hard way that they shouldn't
listen to the trolls, so what's the harm. PHAFH.

--
Happiness lies in the joy of achievement and the thrill of creative effort.
-- Franklin D. Roosevelt

On Wed, 13 Jul 2011 23:28:20 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:

>On 7/13/2011 8:45 PM, dpb wrote:
>> On 7/13/2011 6:59 PM, Leon wrote:
>> ...
>>
>>> Explain to me in explicit detail how to filter him in Thunderbird 5.0.
>>
>> While highlight offending message, under Message menu, "Create Filter
>> from..."
>>
>> Could be made more trivial but it does work...altho afaik only see the
>> changes when either change the actual group in focus or restart to
>> rescan groups.
>>
>> --
>>
>
>Well thank you. It would never work on TB 3.x
>
>I had all kinds of problems with TB 3.x and it seems it was in need of
>so such an improvement that they skipped 4.x altogether, I think. ;~)

I believe you're right, and no smiley applies.

I'm sorely disappointed in Mozilla of late. The last two upgrades to
Firefox have eaten my data and broken Firefox. I reverted to v3.6.18
to get bookmarks, passwords, and the simple back button back.

I asked questions on the community forums and got a reply 4 months
later.

This has me rethinking my reliance on Mozilla products. Maybe I'll
start using Agent for email, too. Anyone here do that? Spill the
beans, please!

I was perfectly happy with the paid version of Eudora email until they
phased it out. Then I was perfectly happy with Outlook Express until
they did away with that. I was perfectly happy with Netscape 3 until
they caught the upgrade/fuckup bug. I was perfectly happy with
Mozilla 1.0, and now look at the mess. Arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrgh!

WTF is wrong with companies? Why must they phase out their best
working, best selling (or most downloaded), most enjoyed products?

--
Learning to ignore things is one of the great paths to inner peace.
-- Robert J. Sawyer

On 7/12/2011 3:28 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
> I'm the proud new owner of a Jet 14" bandsaw (This model, but older
> http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2002049/22892/Jet-14-Closed-Base-Bandsaw-
> Model-JWBS14CS.aspx). I plan on resawing and cutting rough timber/firewood
> for drying. What do I need to know about using the saw?

I would suggest installing ceramic guides over roller bearing guides.

For serious resawing I use a 1.25" blade with 1.2 TPI. Fewer teeth is
the main focus.
>
> Right now, there is a 3/4" blade on it. A 5/16" blade was included as
> well.

>
> I had used one back in high school, but it was usually just a turn it on
> and make a cut operation. There was no thought given to blade tension,
> guide adjustment other than height, etc.

That is generally all you have to do with the better HD band saws.
Smaller, less rigid saws tend to have to be treaked more.

On Sat, 16 Jul 2011 00:09:23 -0500, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:

>On 7/15/11 11:59 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>> On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 20:35:15 -0500, -MIKE-<[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> On 7/15/11 7:31 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Boeshield isn't really a lubricant. If anything, it does the opposite.
>>>
>>> BTW, I have to call BS on that "opposite" statement. :-)
>>
>> It leaves my saw table more sticky than without it. Since it lives in an
>> Alabama garage, sticky isn't the worst of the alternatives, however.
>>
>
>BTW, where are in AL? I get down there on gigs quite often.
>Would love to meet up in person.

Auburn (Opelika).

On 7/17/2011 5:40 PM, Jack Stein wrote:
> On 7/17/2011 2:04 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>
>> When I got the saw I was waffling between Topcoat and Boeshield (after
>> reading
>> this group ;). I decided to go with Boeshield but I did put it on with
>> the
>> "heavy treatment" instructions (since have slacked off toward a
>> thinner coat).
>> It's done its job in keeping the top rust free (though there are some
>> marks on
>> it) but it's certainly not as "slick" as the bare cast iron.
>
> Topcote is slick as can be, far slicker than bare cast iron, slicker
> than waxed iron. When I bought it I was waffling too, but the tool store
> I bought it from only had TopCote. After this thread, it seems they made
> the right decision for me...
>



And if you like TopCote you might love Empire TopSaver. They originally
produced TopCote and have in recent years started making a similar
product again. I used Empire Top Saver, or what ever they called it,
back in the early 80's. It as a superior top slicker upper and as a
side benefit, one which they did not claim, it prevented rust. Now they
make the rust prevention claim.

I personally TopCote now, it is about 2/3's the cost of the Empire product.

Nicely put!

It's not the people that are the trolls, it's the particular post.

Larry's post was a troll. This may be typical. YMMV

Glad somebody repeated it. I would have never seen it.

-----------------------
"Jack Stein" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
Larry, just because people disagree with stuff and are not afraid to put
it in writing doesn't mean they are trolls. krw is not a troll, J.
Clark is not a troll? Trolls always use fake names, are not at all
interested in anything related to the newsgroup, and often work in
teams, and/or take on multiple personalities for the sole purpose of
disrupting a group. 99% of the time you can spot a real troll easily by
the name, and the content of the post. If you think these two are
trolls, you need to think harder.

It's true that ignoring trolls, or anyone you disagree with, will make
your on line life quicker and easier... But boring as hell.

--
Jack
Knowledge is knowing a tomato is a fruit;
Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.

http://jbstein.com

On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 20:35:15 -0500, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:

>On 7/15/11 7:31 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>
>> Boeshield isn't really a lubricant. If anything, it does the opposite.
>
>BTW, I have to call BS on that "opposite" statement. :-)

It leaves my saw table more sticky than without it. Since it lives in an
Alabama garage, sticky isn't the worst of the alternatives, however.

On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 22:30:15 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:

>On 7/15/2011 7:30 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>> On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 07:43:07 -0500, Leon<lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>>
>>> On 7/14/2011 8:08 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>> Snip
>>>
>>>>> Just a suggestionm, if you haven't already done something similar--pull
>>>>> out the tension assembly and work some paste wax into the screw thread
>>>>> then wipe it off. Once it dries it won't pick up dust like grease
>>>>> would, and it makes the mechanism work much more smoothly.
>>>>
>>>> I assume you'd have to wash all the grease out first. With such "fixes" I
>>>> always wonder why the manufacturer didn't do that, if it's such a good idea.
>>>
>>>
>>> Consider most BS's are built in a China related country and using two
>>> lubricants would affect the cost of the machine. Easier to squirt
>>> everything with grease than to pay attention to details.
>>
>> Ok, what's your Laguna use?
>
>Not sure exactly however there was nothing caked up anywhere on the
>machine. They recommend a Teflon lubricant so I use a product called
>Triflon. I have only had to apply it once or twice in the last 4 or so
>years.

Good to know. Thanks. We're taking a trip up to Atlanta tomorrow so I'll
give the Lagunas in the Woodcraft and Rockler stores a good look.

On 7/14/2011 12:14 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
> On Wed, 13 Jul 2011 23:28:20 -0500, Leon wrote:
>
>> Well thank you. It would never work on TB 3.x
>>
>> I had all kinds of problems with TB 3.x and it seems it was in need of
>> so such an improvement that they skipped 4.x altogether, I think. ;~)
>
> I'm running 3.04 under Ubuntu Linux and filters work just fine, thank
> you. Cockpit error? Or is the Windoze version less capable?
>
>

Don't know what the problem was, with TB 5.0 the filter works very much
like Outlook Express did.

On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 20:01:51 +0000 (UTC), Larry Blanchard
<[email protected]> wrote:

>On Thu, 14 Jul 2011 20:01:26 -0400, J. Clarke wrote:
>
>> Just a suggestionm, if you haven't already done something similar--pull
>> out the tension assembly and work some paste wax into the screw thread
>> then wipe it off. Once it dries it won't pick up dust like grease
>> would, and it makes the mechanism work much more smoothly.
>
>Or one of the dry lubes like Boeshield.

Boeshield isn't really a lubricant. If anything, it does the opposite.

On 7/13/2011 9:05 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Wed, 13 Jul 2011 07:38:41 -0500, Leon<lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
> wrote:
>
>> On 7/12/2011 8:03 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
> --nothing of consequence--
>>>
>> As usual you are showing your ignorance in public.
>
> Leon, once you understand the concept, handling trolls is easy.
> You simply don't repy to their teasers and you filter them so you
> don't see the crap they spew.
>
> --
> Happiness lies in the joy of achievement and the thrill of creative effort.
> -- Franklin D. Roosevelt

But the trouble with totally ignoring, some one, a newbe, might believe
what they have to say.

So when he makes a false statement in regard to what I have said, he is
going to be called on it and corrected.